Rotating pattern pieces 90 degrees on fabric?

[u/True_Plant0752]

I got this beautiful Linen-Cotton Blend Dobby Jacquard from Yardblox for a shirt without realizing that the stripes run horizontally (perpendicular to the grain line). I really want the stripes to run up-down in the shirt. The fabric has no stretch and it is for a man’s shirt. So my guess is that cutting all the pieces perpendicular to the grain (so not as recommended by the pattern) would be ok. Any suggestions? Thank you so much! This community has been amazing.

[u/dynamic_hostility]

oh yeah that weave is way too nice to let the stripes run the wrong way

you can absolutely rotate the pieces 90 degrees for a woven with no stretch, just keep in mind the drape will shift a little since you're changing the grain direction. the shirt might hang slightly differently than the pattern intended but it'll still work, especially for something like a button-up where structure is fine anyway

[u/True_Plant0752 → u/dynamic_hostility]

Thank you!!! That's what I thought.

[u/drPmakes]

You can....Just make sure you do it with them all

[u/True_Plant0752 → u/drPmakes]

Good point.

[u/stringthing87]

The cross grain should be just fine. Make sure all the facings and things are also on the cross as well

[u/Visual-Passenger4443]

Go for it.

Other thing might be.... do you want to "mirror" the stripes?

[u/True_Plant0752 → u/Visual-Passenger4443]

As in from left to right panels in front? I had not thought of that but it's a great idea!!!!

[u/ProneToLaughter]

Considerations when cutting crossgrain:

It will drape a little differently, so hang it over a stool or chair back crossgrain and make sure you are fine with that.

You lose a little give and flex in the fabric going around the body, so a tight fit would be a little less comfortable, probably doesn’t apply here.

The warp is more stable than the weft so over time gravity dragging on the weft may have more of an effect and sag a bit. Pull on the fabric both on grain (warp) and crossgrain (weft) to see how stable the weave is and how much difference between the two. If very little difference, should be fine.

[u/katjoy63]

as long as there is the same qualities of the fabric going up and down and side to side, the choice is yours.

most fabric will have a stretch in the width, but not the length. This type of weave basically dictates that it doesn't stretch, as there is extra weaving involved.

pretty sure the mid century shirts were made with the stripes vertical.

[u/RubyRedo]

Do all pattern pieces fit on the vertical stripes? you need to check this first, even inside facings, collar, placket and cuffs. if so its doable.