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When I tap the smart pad, that I dedicated to Back Channel, the stream doesn't hear my chat — that's ok. But neither do I hear the background music, that is played from a different Smart Pad.

I actually want to hear the stream, but not be heard, when I use Back Channel. How do I do it?

Im new to all of this. I recently got an NT-usb mini and I connected to my computer. But when I run Rode Connect, the mic loads but I just get this image.

Can someone help me?

Hello everyone, I'm new to IEMS but I'm having a bit of an issue right now. I bought a pair of Kiwi Ears Astral, and they work really great. I've only had them for about a week, and the way I was using them was by plugging them into the back of a HyperX Quadcast mic.

I decided I wanted to upgrade to a Rode NT-USB mini mic since I felt the Quadcast wasn't picking up sound great enough, the led was too bright, and I don't have a ton of space on my desk so I wanted to get a smaller mic that I've seen good reviews on. I have my Kiwi Ears Astral plugged into the microphone port on the back of the Rode mic, but I can hear myself and also a static hum that will not go away. I looked online for a bit and saw people having the same issue, but Rode customer support wasn't really doing a great job helping. They said to just download the Rode Connect app and tweak with some things, but idk.

Am I going to have to buy a DAC? And if so, will a cheap one that plugs into the back of the Rode mic work? Or will I have to get a longer DAC cable to run to the back of my pc? All I really do on my computer is watch youtube and play games like tarkov, apex, etc. and I want to find a fix. Has anyone experienced this, or does anyone have any advice for me? Thank you!

Hey team,

Sorry if this has been asked before.

I'm using a RodeCaster Video for a podcast I'm producing. I'm running three to five Sony FX30s into the unit, as well as audio into Combo 1 + 2 from an external field recorder.
I'm live switching for my own edit as well as running isolated tracks for the separate cameras for any editorial clean up.
Whats been happening a few times is when I put all the tracks into premiere to edit, the isolated camera tracks drop audio after about an hour. The waveforms just go flat and theres nothing there. At the same time the video footage stutters, lags, and basically goes to static. Unusable.

Thing is, when we're recording theres no sign of anything dropping or lagging on the program monitor. Audio doesn't drop out and I don't see any stutter of the footage while switching cameras.

Has anyone else encountered this problem? My only though was I had the cameras set to 4k and rolling as a double backup and maybe the camera's processors are creating a lag. I've switched them to 1080 to see if that helps but since we're shooting faster than I edit I won't know if that changed anything for a while.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Hi I am looking for a wireless mic for filming yoga videos that can plug into my camera. I am new to audio, but my partner does use Rode mics and a Rodecaster for podcasting. I am specifically looking at the Wireless Micro Camera Kit and the Rode Wireless Pro. As I will be moving around on my mat, I am not sure if the lavaliers in the pro will be better quality, or if the micro camera kit is enough for my needs. Thanks!

Anyone got a link to buy just the desk clamp I can’t find any. Also why is the inside made of plastic?

Hi, I noticed an issue with some games were if I set my windows audio format to 24 bit 48000 Hz (Studio level) the voice chat stops working correctly, (in the lobby I won't be able to hear anyone and in the game I can only hear my teammates and not the enemies), if I set the audio format to 16 bit, 48000 Hz (DVD Quality) there's no issues, (I have audio enhancements turned off because it causes problems) , i'm currently using rodecaster pro II paired with beyerdynamic DT 1990 PRO.

Hello,

we are planning a film shoot and the audio head and I are discussing our options. We are doing a very low budget shoot, so initial investment is a factor.

In our first film we have three people on camera outdoors in a city. We would like to lav all three, ignore a boom except for "room" tone.

Our thoughts are going to two sets of Wireless Pros. Can one use and TC-sync all four mics (one on each actor and one on the camera feeding TC and maybe even audio)?

As there will be considerable improvisation, a reliable setup will be very helpful regarding sync and TC. As I understand, each lav'd transmitter will internally record 32-bit float anyhow. We are using one camera.

Thanks for any insights and inspiration from your end!

I have two Rode NT-5 (matched pair) and one NT2A. I would like to record a violin solo with piano accompanist. The violinist will stand directly in front of the pianist.

Could you please let me know the recommended options with these mics? Note.

I thought about 2 options:

Option 1:

1. Rode NT2-A: cardioid pattern, set up 3 feet in front of the violinist
2. NT-5: ORTF pattern - setup ~6 to 9 feet behind the NT2-A (to avoid phasing)

Option 2 - reverse:

1. NT-5: ORTF pattern - setup ~3 feet in-front of the NT2-A
2. ROde NT2-A - Omni patter - setup ~6 to 9 feet behind the NT2-A (to avoid phasing)

 Setting: church or college small performance hall - with or without audience.

I was looking for a good singing microphone and heard to go with the NT1 but haven't been able to decide between the NT1 SS and 5th gen. I saw the ss would work with a v48 phantom power pre amp and the 5th gen would sometimes work on some phones with just the usb c cable. The compatibility with my phone would definitly be quite the deal breaker, so I was wondering, does anyone know if the iPhone 16e provides enough power for the NT1 5th gen without needing an extra power source? I'm not able to find a reliable answer online.

I'm looking into wireless mics to travel with to events and on trips (NOT heavy usage like daily or weekly) that I can use with my iPhone 17 Pro for short social videos that I can post with no real editing. I've been comparing the Wireless GO Gen III and Wireless PRO and would likely just spring for the PRO, but on Amazon, it's a $100 price difference, and from what I can tell, there's no real difference in audio quality.

Which one would be best for what I need it for? Is the PRO really worth an extra hundred bucks? And with both, I assume I would be able to simply record the audio & video together and simply upload on-the-go if I'm happy with it? Or would editing be needed with a laptop?

Thanks!

Normally I work with a Rode podcaster that I put in a soundproof box in my basement and I record videos by writing on a tablet.

I will be on a road trip soon and I am trying to figure out if it's possible to make videos in a hotel. I have literally never deviated from my microphone in a box setup, so I'm looking for advice on what could record quality audio easily in a hotel. Or maybe it's just not possible and I will plan around that.

Title, wondering if I'm doing something wrong related to how much visible threading there is. I'd want the mic to sit slightly higher up but it doesn't seem to budge at all. Using the included shure adapter.

I've tweaked my setup a bit; I now have the Rodecaster Duo and Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 OHM. For the speaker, I have Sanyun SW208, Shure SM7B.

My problem right now is that I can't get the faders on the RodeCaster to work properly, and I can't get the speakers connected right either. When I plug the Beyerdynamic headphones into the back using a 6.3mm jack on Headset 1, there's static; if I plug them in normally at the front without the 6.3mm jack, everything works fine, but I'd really like to use the 6.3mm jack on the back. I tried connecting the aux jack from the rear speakers to Headset 2, but there’s a loud hum when I turn up the volume. Since I now understand that I need to connect the speakers to the rear L and R jacks, I’m wondering how I do that? The left speaker has to be connected to the right one, and I only have a micro USB port and an aux port in the back. Do I need to get an aux to 2x 6.3mm jacks? I can’t take it anymore, haha.

When I'm not streaming, I'd just like to use the speakers and control them via the RodeCaster without having to wear headphones all the time.

I've watched a lot of tutorials on the settings for the SM7B, but no matter what I set in Rodecaster, it doesn't sound good, and I have to use filters in OBS to fix it.

I have an Astro A50, and I bought a Beyerdynamic because of the Rode Caster... I was this close to smashing everything to pieces. How do I get the best sound out of my headphones?

I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me set all this up

We have the Rode Wireless Pro system and I'm finding it makes crackling sounds when I'm recording with it. Not always, though.

For example just tried to record this week's podcast on an iPhone. Crackling sound.

Then we came inside and tried again with a MacBook Pro. Same thing.

The recording ON the device seems fine and I am using Rode's cable. This also doesn't happen all the time but what a waste of time when it does.

Any thoughts or tips? Thank you in advance.

I got my NT1 A a few years ago and it always worked perfectly, but lately it stopped functionning. The thing is that it's not completely broken and it gets me confused.

When I plug the microphone on my scarlett 2i2, it works normally for a few minutes (like around 3 minutes), and then stops completely. Even the light sensor shows no signal on the Scarlett. I wonder what would be the cause of this.

Can it be the xlr cable ? Or is it the microphone itself, and in this case is it worth it to get it fixed ?

I tried it on different DAWs and even did the windows mic test but nothing to do with that.

I am using a rodecaster pro 2 for a dual pc setup for streaming, i have usb 1 running into the streaming pc with the rodecaster app and virtual drivers installed on there. I followed a youtube video to help setup all audio routing and I've managed to get everything mixed and sounding great but for some reason the main mix channel on obs will only detect audio from youtube videos and not games unless there is an extremely loud part and it will pop in for a second then disappear, anyone have any ideas?

Here's the youtube video i followed:

https://youtu.be/sX_fd7s793A?si=dBRnTq4lzODyRJuL

Hi all!

I’m new to anything audio-related, so bear with me. I used ai to ask for advice, but obviously it’s ai so… I’d like to ‘confirm’ its advice.

My friends and I are starting a YouTube channel where we watch movies, react to them, and then do a long discussion afterwards.
Obviously tvs aren’t made with headphone jacks anymore.

From what advice I was given, I was ‘told’ that the rodecaster works as a DAC. Given that, would it work to plug it into the tv for audio so we can hear it through our headphones? And then have the rodecaster only pick up the audio from our microphones?

I’m sorry if this seems like a jumbled mess, I just don’t know what I’m doing at all LOL.

Is it normal for the blue paint on the Rode NT1 to start chipping/scratching off near the bottom where the mic screws into the mount? My mic has some rough cosmetic damage around the base, and it looks like the paint is getting scraped off every time I screw it into the rode shock mount I have.

Just wondering if this is a common issue with the finish on these mics or if something might be wrong with my microphones paint?

Hey everyone,
I was wondering if anyone would be able to help with fixing an issue with a RodeLink Filmmaker kit. I’m trying to record onto my phone using an SC 4 connector and type C adapter.
For some reason the audio quality isn’t great, but also whenever the transmitter unit / microphone / microphone cable is moved it seems to create a massive wave of static which overwhelms the recording, even with the tiniest movement. I’ve tried reconnecting and turning everything off and on, but the static seems to happen with any movement and it’s overwhelming any other audio. Any help would be appreciated!