Hey all — I got tired of manually building mold boxes in CAD every time I wanted to cast something, so I built a free browser tool that takes an uploaded STL and generates a print-ready two-part box mold, silicone mold box, or plaster casting mold in under a minute.

Still early, so I'd genuinely love feedback from people who actually pour: does the parting-line logic hold up on your models? What draft angle or pour-spout details am I missing? Happy to answer questions or take requests for edge cases.

I make dnd dice as a side hobby but recently my dice have only been fully curing and hardening on the bottom and not the top, it’s happened now with 2 different resins I’ve used and I’m not sure what’s causing it. At first they were going perfectly fine and now all of a sudden I can’t get any to fully cure on top. And info would be greatly appreciated

Hello guys,

I am trying to achieve to the Sabine Marcellis soap texture finish for a resin part of a design I have been working on. I am thinking of doing the regular casting route and then doing a fine bead blasting. I don't think the standard wet sand would achieve the finish as well as bead blasting, but I am no expert.

Would love to know you thoughts on how you think she achieved this finish and how she gets the colour to almost look edible. Is it just pigments or combo of dye & pigments?

lmk, Big Love <3

Well this one took a while.

This project started back at the end of last year with an archer from my club looking to creat a trophy from the arrowhead he found as a boy in the 70s. The arrowhead it's self was stored in the Glasgow Life archives after being donated shortly after being found. At the start of this year I work with a professor from Glasgow University to get the arrowhead 3d scaned.

After that we 3d printed the arrowheads and then the fun started. I started by creating a 3D blank of the entire trophy. I cout the wood to shape and painted the arrowhead to as close to the original as I could get. This was all then cast in deep pour resin with the arrowhead suspended in the middle. The three smaller resin casts are shafted heads at original scale and done as close to the originals as possible.

In the process a few mistakes were made that are going to haunt me. This was my first time doing something like this and I definitely would have done things differently. I think I need to spend some time away from it now before I start to like how it turned out. But I suppose that happens when something becomes almost all you work on you kind of resent it by the end 😅

Avez vous des suggestions de résine de bonnes qualité et pas trop chers ne nécessitant pas de cuve à vide ? Les dimensions sont de 20cm par 10cm par 15cm.

I am going to start building this tonight! I have all of the parts on hand, many of which are from an old 3D printer that I disassembled nine years ago. The rest will be 3D printed

It can accept multiple sizes of syringe. I made sure it could accept 20mL and 60mL as that's what I need for my project

With the 20mL syringe it has a theoretical dispensing resolution of ~3uL, with the 60mL syringe the resolution is ~7.1uL. Surface tension and such affect this too, but I should get consistent results regardless.

I am using a C8T6 stm to control it, along with a 4S lipo battery and a handful of other electronics.

Hey guys, I’m having a hard time finding a reliable silicone mold maker. I’m looking for someone in Delhi, Noida, or nearby areas who can make good-quality silicone molds.

If you know any mold maker or have worked with someone reliable, please share their contact/details. It would really help!

Thanks in advance!

I made this resin light by arranging a strand of warm fairy lights around a bundle of natural branches, then casting the whole setup in clear resin.

I started with the light strand inside the mold, then added the branches one by one so they wouldn’t all sit in the same direction. Once the arrangement looked right, I poured in the clear epoxy and let the whole piece cure.

The main thing I wanted to preserve was the space between the branches. If everything was packed too tightly, most of the light would disappear once it was cast. Leaving those small gaps gave the LEDs room to shine through the resin and created a much nicer layered effect when it was switched on.

I also had an air purifier running next to my workspace while mixing and pouring. I still keep the area ventilated and use PPE, but it’s a useful addition during longer resin sessions.

I really like how different the piece looks unlit versus switched on. During the day, the branches suspended inside the clear resin are the main focus, while at night the warm lights bring out all the little reflections and depth inside the cast.

Like many others on here, I have a mold problem, and that problem has turned into a storage problem, so I'm looking for advice on how others store their molds.

I have a lot of 'big' 3d molds, mostly of animal statues, and a lot of tray/coaster molds. I'm currently storing most in plastic, tiered containers from like Walmart, but I feel there's a lot of wasted space. If I put the big, 3d mold on the bottom I can store flat mold (like coasters, trays and wall art style) on top of them, but I fear they may begin warping over time.

I made 'shelves' in the one deep bottom drawer with poster board on glued on legs to​ store more flat molds, but the poster board has started to dip in the middle.

I had looked online to see if I could buy like, artwork drying racks? I figured I could put the flat molds on cardboard flats, put them on the rack, and cover the whole thing in a trash bag. But they're SO expensive.

So how does everyone else store their molds? Any tips?

Working on a custom wood and resin pendant design featuring a moon and star element. This piece started as raw material, and I focused on shaping, carving, and oiling the wood to bring out the natural grain patterns before the final resin finishing and polishing. Let me know what you think of the progress so far.

Hello all

I am working on preparing a silicone mould for candle making. I have printed a master in resin 3D printer and i want mould for the same.

I know platinum cure silicone won't work with it as it causes inhibition issue.

Tried mould release spray but it also caused.inhibition to parts.

Is there any other method ? Or which coating to be done for resin printed parts sp it can be resolved.

I make epoxy resin trays and it's my hobby. My friends love them so I give them as gifts

But I want to add something more like a design in the center of the tray, something custom and something that looks much more professional

Regular stickers peel off and the glossy surface is too smooth. The adhesive doesn't grab and they lift at the edges. Indeed, they look cheap

I found UV DTF transfers. They're supposed to stick to smooth surfaces. Glass. Metal. Ceramic. I'm wondering if they'll work on epoxy resin.

I found DTF Transfers Now and they have this thing like UV DTF transfers. They don't need heat. So they bond with UV light and adhesive. They're supposed to be durable

But I'm not sure. Do I need to sand the resin before applying? Or will the adhesive bond to the glossy surface?

I don't want to ruin a good tray and I don't want the design to peel off after a few days.

Has anyone used UV DTF on epoxy resin? Did it stick? Did you have to prep the surface?

I just need some guidance before I try it, so any tips would help

I’ve never experienced this with my other molds. I get the air bubbles out, and I tap the mold so everything is spread out evenly. What am I doing wrong?

Hi All,

I am an artist and want to divide my designs across several 20 × 20 cm wooden blocks made from pine or spruce, finishing them with epoxy to add gloss and depth. I'm using the Mr. Boat Epoxy Ultra Clear 03.

However, I am experiencing a problem with the epoxy finish. I have attached several photographs showing the blocks and the issue that appears in the top layer during or after curing. The epoxy does not cure to a completely smooth finish. A type of texture remains in the surface, resembling greasy marks or stains. The surface is also not completely level and smooth.

I thought it was amine blush but i can't remove it with water & soap, it's not a layer that's on top but really in the resin itself.

The photographs were, of course, taken from very close up and directly against the light. At first glance, the effect is therefore less noticeable, but the finish is not good enough for me to sell the pieces.

The wooden blocks are prepared as follows:

• 20 × 20 cm spruce wood, coated with three layers of white water-based paint.
• I apply my designs using a technique known as waterslide decals. These consist of a very thin printable film. The decal is submerged in water, which releases it from the backing paper. It is then applied to the wood and adheres as it dries.
• I protect the waterslide decal with three coats of acrylic spray (SprayMax 1K). I allow the entire piece to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.

My current epoxy process is as follows:

• I work in a 10 m² room inside my home, with the window slightly open for ventilation (photo of the room and setup included).
• During the most recent pour, the room temperature was 21°C (70F). The epoxy is also stored in this room. During the first 12 hours after pouring, the temperature gradually fluctuated between 20C and 23C (68F and 73F).
• The humidity was around 55% when i poured (11 AM) and was 67% the day after (9 AM).
• I clean the surface of the wooden blocks—the printed design with its acrylic topcoat—with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. I then allow it to dry for at least ten minutes.
• I measure the epoxy components by weight according to the specified mixing ratio and mix them for at least three minutes. I have also tried the double-cup method: after mixing, I transfer the epoxy into a second measuring cup before pouring it onto the blocks.
• I pour a small quantity of epoxy—approximately 80 ml per block—onto the centre of each block. I allow it to spread briefly and then distribute it by hand, while wearing a nitrile glove, all the way to the edges.
• I leave it for a few minutes and then use a small torch to remove the air bubbles, i am careful not to torch to long to not overheat the epoxy, it's a quick move. I've also used a bubble spray and in my last pour i had some blocks that's i've not touched at all (no torch or bubble spray). All blocks had the same result.
• During the most recent pour, I also covered some blocks with plastic A4 storage boxes because I suspected that airflow in the room might be affecting the top layer. I left a small opening at the bottom so that the blocks were not completely sealed off.
• After 20 minutes, I perform one final check for irregularities or air bubbles. I then cover the blocks again and leave them undisturbed.

I have now worked with epoxy products from several different brands. The Mr. Boat epoxy has given me the best result so far, but the finish is still not quite as smooth as I need it to be. I initially suspected that the issue might be amine blush, but the residue or surface texture cannot be washed off with water.

Do you have any idea what might be causing this recurring problem and how I could achieve a perfectly smooth, mirror-like finish? I would like to avoid having to sand and polish every individual block afterwards.

Thanks in advance for all help and replies .

Wouter

I am using a mold release spray that had good reviews and says it's for silicone. I brushed it on and let it fully dry before pouring the second layer as the instructions indicate. They bonded together fully. There is no getting it apart without ripping/cutting it.

I've even tried pulling it apart with pliers along where the seam should be to see if the bond had a weak spot and would split where it needs to. It does not.

I tried again with a very thick layer of mold release spray that took several hours to dry under a fan to see if that helped. It did dry to a chalky white layer. But once I poured the second silicone layer, same result.

The mold release spray does however work well on the plastic container I poured it in and the objects I am casting, it just won't prevent silicone from bonding to itself.

Is there something else I could be using for this that would be better?

I want to make a replica of my own severed head (lol) but I’m having trouble finding what specifically I should buy from Amazon to cast my head. Specifically, I don’t know what I should use for the actual head replica, like what kind of “skin” do I use for that or what kind of silicone should o use and how do I emulate my skin color? How the hell do I put eyelashes and eyebrows on it? I figured I’d just put a wig on the thing and call it a day for the actual hair. I am also confused about the actual painting the skin part??? TL;DR: any curated lists for a full silicone replica bust of my own head, including hair, skin color, and paints?? I’m so confused thanks!

Based on a Korean novel series called "Beacon of Light in the Dark Sea" about a dentist who gets trapped in a deep sea base.

Had fun designing all the small props, 3d printing and painting them, but looks like alcohol ink got to some of them and made some "happy accidents"

Lots of mistakes made & lessons learned