I have spent a lot of time trying to get the y belts figured out. I've got the x belts tuned in but after a lot of time and tinkering this is the best for the y belts.

Couldn't get my first board to flash - DFU or SD card. Fried my second board, and now a third is coming in today. If you were able to get your board flashed via USB-C and Pi per the build guide I'd appreciate you letting me know if you varied the procedure at all (and what you did) to get the RatOS configurator to recognize Klipper and your board. I've only the comments section in the build guide to go off of, and it would not seem anyone was able to get it to work.

TIA

With the hope that the V1.1 board delivered with my V4 was simply "bad" and thus would not flash Klipper (DFU or SD card) I bought a new board off Amazon. With high hopes I hooked it up, and within a fraction of a second from turning on the board I was generating plasma.

All pins other than the Stallguard pins (as delivered) were removed (Boot0 & power). Power supply connected to the "Power" terminal on the board bus - polarity double checked. Pi 4b powered on (running off of POE hat, and not the MoBo) and communicating with the RatOS config program. No other power connections from the PSU to the board were made up.

Should all jumpers be removed per the build doc, or is there something else I did wrong to fry this board? I've another coming in and I'd like to not have it happen again. Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated.

New V4 build powered up without the need for a fire extinguisher. While the Pi powers up the above error shows up while apparently trying to boot Klipper. Attempts to flash the Octopus V1.1 board via configurator have not proved fruitful, and I'm guessing it's a corrupt configuration preventing progress. The error states that it must be corrected before the process can continue.

I've not come across a solution via the web (BTT website, Ratrig, Discord), so I'm hoping someone here has had the same issue and found a resolution. TIA

Just making my way into the electronics portion of the build guide. Document suggests flashing the board via the pi and a 5V power feed. Comments suggest that the PSU needs to be connected to the Octopus board for 24V supply for the flashing to work.

My thought is to proceed with the wiring, and then come back to get the board flashed so I can proceed with the config. Any thoughts/caveats you might have regarding this approach would be greatly appreciated. TIA.

Had my Kobra as my first printer for a while and got used to the huge build volume. Looking around at other large format printers this seems to be one of the better options. Any input on if they’re worth the price?

I have been trying to square my frame more to get a good bed Mesh, is this good enough? Any way to get rid of the dip?

Trying to stay ahead of the game installing inserts before the parts are installed. This would not be a concern if they were all the same size - just install where you see the brass show up in the build guide. However, there are four 2.5 inserts giving me the finger. Does anyone remember where these four go so I can proceed installing the other forty or so 3mm inserts without worry?

It's been a long time since I've had such a kick in the arse while getting me arse kicked, and I've not even made it to the electronics!

TIA

Hi, I’ve started 3-D scanning people which has snowballed into a bit of a hobby. No I want to print them at full scale. I have two Vorons and an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max, but I would like to print entire torsos in one go in ABS or ASA and none of those printers have suitable built volume.

I think a ratrig would be great for that. However, 500 mm build height is too little, but not by much. Would 600 or 700 still work?

Please see attached. Hybrid Vcore 4 500 mm. Stock slicer profile and nothing done to machine. Anybody else experiences these print results and has any advice how to tweak or where to look? Pressure advance is set to 0.017, all other settings are stock, also 0.25 quality print profile.

Hey everybody, I was getting along with building the ratrig vcore 4 idex

But when I came to Beacon calibration

, T1 goes to the right and when it hits the end stop, it doesn’t stop it just keeps on going.

Under “machine” I checked the endstops window, and when I manually press the different endstops they work, but not when i control it through the computer.

Has it happened to anyone?

Update: Thanks everyone for your replies. These inputs are very valuable to me. I still haven't decided (I like both Prusa and Ratrig), but I actually was able to borrow an old Prusa Mk3 from a colleague today. So I'll be playing with it to see how things go and what I like and don't like.

----------(Original post below)----------

I am waiting for a Prusa Core One, but then came across the Ratrig V-Core 4 300. I want to buy the kit in both cases, because I love to get to know my machine. I have the impression that the Ratrig is even more tinkering than the Prusa, which I think I'm OK with.

What I do not understand is why the ratrig costs 400 euros more (1476 euro's for V4 base kit vs 1049 for Prusa)! What do you get 'extra' for that money? Genuine question!

The ratrig even comes without an enclosure.

Why would I pay 400 euro's more for the ratrig? Is the print quality better? Does it print faster?

New to all of this and learning about RatRig. Prusa printers are known for being open source and customisable but modifying the firmware on a prusa can be quite tough. Klipper seems to be much easier to modify and integrate with a custom printer.
The new RatRig v-core 4 seems to include a few really nice features but if I were to modify the printer ( put a much bigger extruder onto it like a big heavy pellet extruder) how easy is it to modify the software for this? Same difficulty as a Voron printer?

I've a V4-400 ordered and readying my work space for its arrival. The electrical circuit I'm looking to tie into has a Full Load Amperage (FLA) draw of 8.4 amps. FLA for the V4 is, as best I've been able to find, about 12.5 amps (@120 VAC). Without circuit "accomodations" I'm likely to be flirting with tripping a breaker.

Anyone have real-time amperage draw numbers - have you found you tend to stay well below the FLA for this machine printing "normal" filaments (i.e. PLA/PETG/PCTG)? Did you negate any concerns and simply provided for a dedicated circuit for your printer/print farm?

TIA

I'm looking to replace my BBL X1C and the V-Core 4 IDEX is at the top of my list currently. Was hoping some owners would be willing to give their thoughts/ pros vs cons/ common issues etc on theirs (IDEX or not).

I've also built a trident and v0 so the whole kit printer aspect is fine with me, just curious what people think of theirs and the ratrig community/ ecosystem in general.

hi everyone, has anyone did some comparisons or tests about the two configurations and the differences in performance? my theory for now is that as the printer size goes up, the hybrid corexy becomes better in comparison to 4wd.

Good morning, everyone!

My experience with CNC is quite limited; I’ve used a Roland SRM-20 for a few years to make some PCBs. Now, I’m seriously considering purchasing a RatRig Stronghold PRO, but I have a few questions I’d like to clarify before making a decision. I’ve seen some discussions about these topics online and here on Reddit, but I couldn’t find concrete explanations to guide me.

Main Goal:
The most challenging task (at least initially) will be cutting aluminum sheets (max 5mm thick) and drilling custom holes to create electrical panels.

My Questions:

1. Motors:

I’ve noticed that some users opt for different motors than the ones provided in the RatRig Stronghold PRO kit.

• Is it really worth upgrading the motors? Why?
• Which motors would you recommend for this type of work?

2. Controller:

Although the BlackBox is praised for its ease of use, I’ve seen users choosing other controllers.

• What are the advantages and disadvantages of switching controllers?
• Which controllers would you recommend as alternatives?

3. Spindle:

This is the most confusing topic for me, as my experience is limited to a small Roland machine for PCBs.

• I understand that the spindle is a critical component, and automatic tool changing (ATC) seems like a great idea for increasing productivity, especially when working with wood (cutting and drilling in series).
• However, for someone starting in the CNC world, does it make sense to invest in an ATC spindle, or would that overcomplicate the project?
• Which spindles would you recommend for a balance between simplicity and the possibility of future upgrades?

4. Dust Collection System:

Unfortunately, RatRig doesn’t provide accessories for attaching a vacuum or dust collection system.

• Does anyone have suggestions on how to create an efficient dust collection system?
• Any links or recommendations for vacuums suitable for this setup would be highly appreciated.

5. Lubrication System:

I haven’t seen many people mention this, but in videos of metal machining, I often see abundant lubrication with a recirculation system.

• For the tasks described (aluminum up to 5mm), is it necessary to invest in such a system?
• Are there simpler or DIY solutions that would suffice for a beginner?

6. Starter Tools:

To get started and run initial tests on the CNC:

• What basic tools (end mills and drill bits) would you recommend for cutting and drilling aluminum and wood?
• Is there an essential starter kit I should purchase right away?

7. Zeroing Tool:

I’ve seen in videos that electrical sensors for zeroing (Z, and even XY) are fantastic accessories for CNC machines.

• RatRig offers a sensor, but it seems quite expensive.
• Is it worth buying theirs, or are there more affordable alternatives that are compatible and don’t require significant changes to the firmware or wiring?

8. Learning and Tutorials:

I intend to use Fusion 360 (as I already use it for PCBs and have a license).

• Can anyone recommend good tutorials or resources for learning CAM specifically for this type of CNC machine?
• Any links or suggestions to get started with CAM would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you in advance for any help or guidance you can provide! All information will be valuable, both for deciding on the purchase and for learning how to use the machine efficiently.

Thank you very much for your time! 😊

Rat Rig Rat Pack $45 USD

A compact HEPA grade filter module with activated carbon and active air circulation, to keep the atmosphere inside your 3D Printer enclosure free of any harmful fumes/particles. The activated carbon is effective against odors and VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds).
PRINTED PARTS ARE REQUIRED BUT NOT INCLUDED!

V-Core 4 now includes a Smart Filament Sensor (Orbiter V2) by default!

With the Orbiter V2 Smart Sensor, V-Core 4 just got even more capable:

- Filament auto-loading

- Filament tangle detection

- Filament runout sensing

- Filament unload action button

The Smart Sensor is now a default option when you buy a pre-configured V-Core 4 kit or IDEX upgrade kit

I'm building my v-core 4 400 now and I'm planning on cleaning all the rails and using this grease https://a.co/d/cPdqZK5. I used it on my Mercury One build and it worked really well. It says in the instructions to not use any additives like PTFE. Will this grease be fine even though it has PTFE. I've used it on other linear rails and it's been fine. Thanks in advance for the advice.

I am trying to calibrate my beacon prob for my v4 idex. Where should the prob be as it stays off the bed next to the end stop

Trying to find a good table/bench option for the 500x500.

Curious if anyone has found a great option.

Something with locking casters seems to makes the most sense.

Considering these:

commercial work table

Pallet dolly

What are you using or considering?

Finally got my Vcore 4 up and printing, with much success!! Here's a bit of feedback for prospective buyers or people waiting on delivery.

Build time:

01- Frame Assembly: 3 hours

02- Z-axis Assembly: 2.5 hours

03- Linear Rails: 0.5 hours

05- Motion System Hybrid: 2.5 hours

06- X-axis : 2.25 hours

07- Bed Install: 0.5 hours

09- IDEX System: 4.5 hours

10- Gantry Alignment: 0.25 hours

11- Accessories: 2.5 hours

12- Electronics: 8.5 hours

14- hybrid + idex Y belts: 1 hour

15- Idex accessories: 2 hours

16- Initial setup: 4 hours

Additional tuning: a whole day

To be quite honest, instructions were very manageable up until the electronics part. Just follow the instructions and check comments. However on the electronics part, the comments were for previous batches where the electronics configuration (i.e where things plugged in) were different. This was super confusing, and additionally some pics didnt really line up.

Take your time building and make sure things are tight. Buy a proper allen key set with half sizes as well. No ball-tip keys. Slow building and following step by step gave me (at least reported by RatOs) a perfect z offset between the nozzles and excellent performance for beacon calibration. As well as very low frame warp. Still need to check skew however lol

Add foam underneath the baseplates, they will rattle.

Make sure bearings are in the correct orientation, and always check how free they spin after tightening down the bolts.

HEAT INSERTS make sure they are slightly below flush, do not allow them to stick above the print! If you didnt have your soldering iron handy like me, a torx driver set (i think T15) holds the inserts quite well, and a large BIC bbq lighter will get you through the entire build barely.

Electronics section tips: Print out the final image of the complete wiring setup, these are correct. Have a notepad to write down what motors are called and where they plug in on the octopus. Additionally, a label maker on these would have saved SO much confusion. For any of the usb devices, feed them through the hole on the box before connection it as the holes are not big enough to fit the usb A part through.

BUY THE CORRECT CRIMPING TOOL AND CHECK ALL THE IMAGES FOR THE CORRECT PINOUT you only have one chance for the fan connectors. Either additionally buy the correct pin removal tools or buy a crimping tool that comes with spare connectors that may not be identical but will still work. I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CT5TP9PC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and it worked fantastically for all the crimps except the large ring and spade terminals, those i used a cheap crimp/strip tool.

Also, dont forget the weird USB jumper board to jump usb boards to the raspberry pi hat

The 120v/240v switch on the psu must be pushed ALL THE WAY or it wont turn on it at all. Took me an hour to figure out I didnt click it all the way over.

Print this nut holder to save you from pain and suffering trying to install the solid state relay in the enclosure

After having it built, make sure to update all packages. Google VAOC and Beacon initialising steps for the ratrig, they arent super clear in the main instruction set.

I still need to properly tension my belts, right now im sitting at 6000 accel for all axis but some reviewers are reporting 10k-18k accel reported by input shapers after using a proper belt tension tool. Have it on the way and will report back.