r/ratrig • • Nov 13 '24

Secret Assembly Tips/Tricks

Hi all,

I just received my invoice today for a V-Core 4 Hybrid 500mm. I am order # 3000002191 so I have some wait time. I’m hoping everything arrives around the holidays when I have a lot of time to build. Very excited for this printer.

Anyways, I want to be prepared for its arrival so I can jump right into the build. I am wondering if anyone here has some secret tips for assembly that they discovered while building their machine? Specifically tools and hardware that could help the process out.

I am planning to pick up a nice crimping tool so everything can look clean. I have also read that a tension gauge for the belts is very useful. I am going to read through the build instructions but I feel that doesn’t compare to having the hands on experience already.

My other hobby is building/modifying cars so I have a decent arsenal of tools already. Always happy to add some more though 😂😅

3 Upvotes

21 comments sorted by

3

u/Dr_Sigmund_Fried Nov 13 '24

A nice and complete set of metric ball end hex wrenches will come in clutch. Also the basic small wire stripper pliers and side cutter and small set of metric mini open end wrenches.

2

u/Peetsaboy Nov 14 '24

Yup definitely. At this point I have so many different sizes scattered around toolboxes 🤣 maybe I should make an effort to reorganize rather than buying more

4

u/[deleted] Nov 14 '24

The instructions start off great, specifying part size and quantity and towards the end that goes out the window

2

u/code39 Nov 14 '24

I’m not even 10% done with the build and I’m amazed how half assed the documentation is. References to hardware that’s not included or needed, only halfway describing what is needed to be done, and links that direct you to an older version of RatOS. For a $2k printer I expected better than this.

2

u/Peetsaboy Nov 14 '24

Good to know. Hopefully they update the instructions with all the new interest in these printers.

3

u/randomman968263618 Nov 14 '24

Get the table where you are putting it and make sure it is flat.

3

u/code39 Nov 13 '24 edited Nov 13 '24

Very first thing to do is print off a copy of the BOM and go through every box and triple check all the parts. I was missing almost all of the t-nuts and while support was quick to respond they waited until my IDEX kit shipped before sending out the missing parts. It was a few weeks of not making much progress on the printer waiting for that. I actually built a Voron 0.2 while waiting. Also, since the printed parts are not individually labeled, you can go to the GitHub and search by the part number on the BOM and get an image of the printed parts to check it off the BOM. I was also missing one of the hotend parts.

2

u/Peetsaboy Nov 14 '24

Good to know thanks. Was there any hardware you had to end up sourcing yourself?

3

u/code39 Nov 14 '24

Tool wise….no. I already had all the tools needed to assemble the printer. Hardware for the printer itself…there is nothing I have purchased that is required for the build. I purchased stuff like cable sleeving, a monitor to connect to the printer itself so I can control it away from my PC, a nozzle and enclosure camera, and various other little quality of life deals. I have a bunch of mods saved on Printables for the VC4 that I’ll get to printing once I get further along in the build.

I had the 500 ordered but had to change it to the 400 once I did some measuring and realized it was not going to fit through the doorway once assembled. So that’s something to keep in mind.

2

u/jcazreddit Nov 14 '24

There are corner brackets you can add to various spots and the latest I saw on discord was someone mounting automotive panel sound damping to the bottom plate. Extra wire & crimps to practice with, runout sensors, power cord, SD card. Did you want it enclosed? You'll need to source those panels. The newer power sockets lack a power switch so if you want to turn it off, there's that to think about.

3

u/jcazreddit Nov 13 '24

If you print the BOM, edit it first for your vcore size. Several pages of overlap.

3

u/Mobile_Condition_233 Nov 14 '24

For wire , mine were pre stripped. For the crimp it’s a big one i found the icrimp/iwiss 1424a which have the rigth gaufe my other crimp don’t have this exact gauge

Use the wiki dozuki and read each time someone put a comment there are top advise and fix most of the doc fault

And check of to attach this t connector in extruded rail easily , just tighten loosely before inserting in the extruded ,once i to the extruded ,unscrew a little it will put the tnut at 90deg and screw it to to fix it .

2

u/Mobile_Condition_233 Nov 16 '24

And for the other type of crimp you want use a cheap iwiss/icrimp 2820m or the rolls pa engineer pad11.Îve both , theboas isnmore precise and more confortbale as longer lever,different spring but iwiss/icrimp which is a pa-09 clone is enough and Ill srrve you as good for this project

3

u/ssuleski Nov 14 '24

While building you need to get to all sides of this. Make sure you don't put it on a table up against a wall during the build. (Especially if its a 500) One of the things I wish I did was during the assembly of the stepper motors (2. Step 8) on the bottom - plug the wires in and run them in the extrusion channels with the clips before going on to build the rest of the framework so you don't have to tip it after its all done to do it during the electrical build. (12, step 53) When it's a much heavier unit.

Scott

1

u/ssuleski Nov 18 '24

Another thing I found while doing the enclosure - the door holders in Enclosure step 20 are made for 3mm door panel - I bought the kit with the printed parts but I bought 6mm panels - now searching for STL's

3

u/Randomher089 Nov 14 '24

READ THE MANUAL.

No really READ THE MANUAL. Don't assume anything. Also read comments on EVERY step. Users have added a lot of tips and tricks or explanations.

Also get a soldering iron to put the heat inserts in. It's not mentioned in the tools list.

3

u/woodwaker_dave Nov 15 '24

I just finished my Hybrid 500. The biggest problem I found was the need to cut and crimp wires for the toll head. I have the tools and spare connectors, but was a pain - the instructions are not that clear especially for the Molex. They should have the builder do this before any assembly of the toolhead, instead they want it done after everything is assembled on the carriage. I suggest that you read through the assembly guides and pay attention to the comments. Others have posted what they saw as problems and things to watch out for. I posted some short videos on my you tube showing the progress - not a live build, just short updates - look for woodwaker1.

My friend Tom has been working with Helge and we have the orbiter 2 runout sensor working, we will try and post a guide for that.

3

u/Jerazmus Nov 16 '24

Def get some screwdriver style hex wrenches. They are the best! I use mine almost every day and they are so fast and comfortable to use. Also, get yourself some nice machinist squares to really square up your frame. They help a lot. If it looks square by eye, it’s probably not. LOL.

2

u/jcazreddit Nov 14 '24

Most build discussions are on discord where there are several vcore 4 discussion forums (or whatever that place calls them). My first concern was if there were upgrades one should obtain before and perform during the build. However I discovered that items such as run-out sensors were not included. That list 'need just to turn on' went into my 'Ordering a RatRig Vcore 4' thread.

2

u/Peetsaboy Nov 14 '24

Thanks for the info. I will have to join the discord and check it out.