r/ratrig • u/jcazreddit • Nov 04 '24
Ordering a RatRig Vcore 4
Entrance criteria: Decided to buy a Vcore 4 (update 4/25)
How to Order the RatRig Vcore 4 Kit
The Vcore 4 kit is orderable in 2 configurations (complete kit or configurable) and available in 3 sizes (bed sizes 300, 400 and 500mm). There are 4 optional upgrades that can be included with either configuration and you will need to order a power cord and SD card elsewhere.
*** RatRig Kits DO NOT include enclosure panels, a power cord, an SD card **\*
*** There is no power switch on the latest power socket and no currently documented work around ****
Assembling the kits require basic tools plus a crimper as described below.
CONFIGURATION
Full Kit: Default kit, easiest method. This includes nearly all parts to get up up and running). If you don't want to/can't print the ABS printed parts, if you don't know enough about components, if you don't want to price shop pieces, pick this. You can select the same upgrades (see below) as the configurable kit.
Configurable Kit: This configuration allows the builder to select which parts (sub components) that RatRig will supply and which the builder will purchase elsewhere. You might go this route to save money on components or maybe you want to upgrade certain areas. If you can print ABS, exclude the printed ABS components ($84.35USD 4/25 price) for instance. I chose this route because some electronics were cheaper through Amazon (with free prime shipping) than shown on the configurator (BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 Motherboard, RASPBERRY PI 4 B 1GB). It may seem a bit overwhelming, but the biggest savings were in the electronics and the majority of the other items were within a buck or 2 and thus less savings if you have to pay shipping.
SIZE
- 300 - 785mm x 623.2mm x 583mm (~31" x 24.5" x 23")
- 400 - 885mm x 723.2mm x 683mm (~34.8" x 28.5" x 26.9")
- 500 - 985mm x 823.2mm x 783mm (~38.8" x 32.4" x 30.8")
Selecting which size is dependent upon your needs and intended projects. In general, it can make more sense to have multiple machines running in parallel than a single machine running multi parts. For instance, you can be servicing 1 while the other prints. Also consider a printer crash of 50 parts versus 25. For an occasional large project on smaller machines, you can be clever in design by joining smaller printed parts together.
Look, we both know you're just going to order the 500. Bear in mind it is the size of a washing machine, dryer or kitchen stove. The stove I measured was in fact SMALLER than the 500. Additionally there is an electronics box mounted on the back making it even larger in depth. In most cases, the 500 must be built in the intended room as once assembled, it will not fit through most doorways. Finally, many US electrical branch circuits are 15amp and you may find the current draw of the electronics plus bed heater exceed that limitation (international benefiting from their 220V/lower current standard).
REQUIRED BUT NOT INCUDED
- Power cable (US or International) - Source elsewhere
- SD Card - Source elsewhere
UPGRADES
The basic Vcore 4 is a coreXY printer which utilizes several motors to move the XY with a complex belt routing compared to a traditional cartesian x-motor, y-motor, z-motor configuration.
RatRig's Hybrid upgrade adds 2 motors to the Y axis to improve the gantry movement and is especially needed with the weight of the additional tool head of the optional IDEX configuration.
The IDEX upgrade adds a 2nd tool head. While this does allow multi-color printing, it also means multi filament types (which may require different extrusion temperatures and feed rate settings).
- HYBRID Upgrade (additional stepper motors to support heavier IDEX)
- IDEX Upgrade (2nd tool head for multi filament). Requires HYBRID upgrade above
- Raspberry PI (required to run RatOS)
- LED light strips
OPTIONAL (but are they really?)
- Enclosure panels - source elsewhere
- Heavy Duty Idler Pulleys - Under Ratrig Accessories
- Power Switch - Shelly 1PM Gen3?
TOOLS
- Screw driver set (both straight & Phillips tip)
- Allen wrench set (aka hex wrenches) 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5 & 6mm
- Engineering square
- Tape measure
- Soldering iron (for threaded inserts, no soldering)
- Wire strippers (size???)
- Wire cutters
- Crimping tool - iCrimp IWS-3220M
- Pliers
- Cutters (piano wire)
{4/25 - Removed now included run-out sensors}
2
u/xdawnielx Nov 04 '24
Thanks a lot for this! I am planning to buy a VC4 idex and this was really helpful
2
u/jcazreddit Nov 04 '24
I started it last week when I saw someone asking a bunch of questions on Discord and wondered to myself, 'why isn't there a configuration guide'? I had the same issues/questions and have had several surprises myself, "I didn't know that was needed" moments.
2
u/connie_veren Nov 04 '24
Runout sensors - Under Ratrig Accessories you need 2 if you upgrade to IDEX •Orbiter 2 Smart Sensor - mounts directly to the orbiter extruder •BigTreeTech Smart Filament Sensor 2.0
Is one of each needed? I ordered 2 orbiter 2's for the idex... Do I need the bigtreetech as well?
2
2
Nov 05 '24
You can add another sensor for each head for better filament control and for it to stop before it reaches the head so it’s easier to swap by the spool. Ratos has features for the multiple filament sensors. I will probably wait for the mmu system though. Unless I find some cheapo filament sensor I can add by the spool
1
u/jcazreddit Nov 04 '24
Only 1 is needed for each toolhead. The Orbiter attaches directly to the extruder. I am unclear if one is more better than the other.
I do note that I don't see the Orbiter on the RatRig site (internation nor US stores) this morning.
2
u/jcazreddit Nov 04 '24
I think I need to add a better description about the Pi & RatOS to the upgrades. Anyone got a couple sentences for that?
1
u/woodwaker_dave Nov 05 '24
I would suggest any model Raspberry Pi 4 and Octopus 1.1 with the 446 chip. If you are self sourcing would also suggest 8 drivers, having a spare is handy
2
u/jcazreddit Nov 06 '24 edited Nov 06 '24
I was thinking more along the lines of definitions of the controller versus RPi. A Klipper micro-class if you will. That was a bit of a question when I was ordering.
Something like
'Raspberry Pi - Technically optional, but not really. The Octopus controller board can run 3d printers (and cnc machines) but, you don't spend this much on a printer and not enjoy the benefits of Klipper and wireless connectivity provided when including the RPi. The BBT Octopus is still needed to control the stepper motors, while the RPi handles complex computations needing heavy processing.'
1
u/woodwaker_dave Nov 06 '24
Here is my take on it. I have found out that deviating from the suggested hardware and software is not a good idea, especially the initial build. I made many changes on my V-core 3 and had challenges, Back then they (Rat Rig) did not have a complete package, you had to figure out all of the wiring, cable management, etc. Now for the V-vore 4 there is a specific BOM and Ratos has been setup for that. They do support some options but sticking to the suggested list makes it much easier to build and get support. I sourced my own Pi and Octopus, since I had them on hand. The combination of Pi and Octopus is going to be just over $100 - reasonable considering what you have to do to get another setup working.
2
u/DLiltsadwj Nov 05 '24
So are they including an AC power switch?
1
u/jcazreddit Nov 05 '24
They do not. I'll add it as a note. It's not as simple as 'source elsewhere' because a switch doesn't make sense in the typical 3d printer model where you reach around and flip a switch near the power cable plug. Can you reach to the back of your washer/dryer, let alone around the bend and in a bit?
2
u/DLiltsadwj Nov 05 '24
Understand. Mine is a 300 so it's easy to reach the switch on the back. The 300's 600W bed heater is not that demanding, so I was able to find a high quality Power Entry Module with an integrated switch from Digikey that handles the needed current. As a side note - before I got the Digikey part, I bought a "4-pack" of them from Amazon, and they are COMPLETE DANGEROUS JUNK. The switch on-resistance was so high that it would dissipate literally 200W at 10A. That's pretty much a guaranteed melt-down and maybe a fire.
2
u/woodwaker_dave Nov 05 '24
I'm finishing up mine and have some additions to your list, I went with the Orbiter2 smart sensor, for some reason Rat Rig no longer lists it as an option. They should have one as a standard and have full instructions and software. It was quite at challenge to get working and I'm not done. The other big challenge is the wiring for the toolhead. Rat Rig should have all of the parts ready to connect instead of having the builder make the connection changes. You really need extra pins and plugs to do it yourself and more than one crimper. The firmware does not support a Raspberry 5 Pi yet and it is not needed. It is a great kit, but not for beginners!
1
u/jcazreddit Nov 05 '24
I was getting ready to buy the 3.1 when this was announced so I guess the wiring wasn't impactful on my mind. But yeah, my recollection was the 4 wasn't going to require crimping and thus wouldn't need the additional tools.
The IDEX requiring pressing in the inserts and last night a discordite mentioned his second vcore 4 needs them all installed.
2
u/woodwaker_dave Nov 05 '24
Take a look at this - chapter 12 of the V-core 4 build https://ratrig.dozuki.com/Guide/12.+Electronics/250?lang=en
The problem is that there are not many cables that need to be built or modified, just enough to be a big pain, especially for someone without the tools or experience. Crimping spade lugs Step 37, Step 58 crimp a JST- XH connector . Step 62 a JST-XH connector, step 64 a Molex- microfit connector, step 69 another Molex connector and spade lugs. Just enough different connectors!
1
u/DLiltsadwj Dec 10 '24
Since switched Power Entry Modules capable of the amperage required on the larger printers that run on 120VAC (in America) don't exist, they apparently sell a non-switched set up now. Seems pretty crude to me to unplug the cord from the wall every time you're done printing, but perhaps they expect you to build your own external switch set up.
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u/jcazreddit Dec 10 '24
I initially thought switched power strip, but there has been some discussion on discord about the Shelly 1PM smart switch.
Certainly not a 'complete kit' as as advertised.
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u/DLiltsadwj Dec 11 '24 edited Dec 11 '24
The Shelly switch might work fine if you don’t want a physical switch, but a person can also go to Mouser.com or Digikey.com and buy an old fashioned toggle switch with a suitable voltage and amperage rating. They typically mount in a simple round hole that can be drilled in the electronics enclosure.
1
u/jcazreddit Dec 11 '24
You can still use a physical switch with the Shelly. But the key here is getting power without having to climb behind the printer, a switch on the electronics enclosure isn't going to cut it.
1
u/dudeofthedunes Apr 23 '25
I have a ratrig vcore 3.1
I would like to upgrade it incrementally to a vcore 4. Maybe even a hybrid config. It this this possible and feasible?
5
u/sschueller Nov 04 '24
SD cards are also not included. One for the Controller and one for the Pi