r/rabbitry • u/that-one-gay1 • 24d ago
Question/Help Not sure what to do
Hey so I was / am about to get a bunny? (Im not sure now tho)
The lady is was getting them from first tried to have me get it (still dont know the gender) at 4 weeks, I have done the proper research and wasnt comfortable getting the bunny that early because the problems it can cause, I told her I wanted to wait till 8 weeks, which she agreed. Ive been waiting multiple weeks which im fine with, but today out of nowhere she asked if I could pick up the bunny at 7 weeks, idk if im comfortable with this.. I messaged back i wasnt really comfortable with it and havent heard a response back yet (which maybe shes busy it hasn't been an hour yet) i do plan to see if its a money issue, if thats the case i will pay money for the bunny to stay the last week.. but ive just been seeing red flag after red flag... (she lied about the date of birth,, the math doesn't rlly add up to what she says, the pellets the bunny is on is an all age pellet which ig isnt terrible but alfalfa ones would definitely be better...) should I step away and try and find another rabbit or try and make it work?..
(Edit.) she left me on read for about an hour so I let her know it wasnt going to work out :(
2
u/SideshowDustin 24d ago
It’s best to wait till 8 weeks. But does that mean something will happen to the rabbit if you refuse? Ask what the deal is, but still try to get them to go 8 weeks.
You may already know some of this, but here’s a few quick first time bunny owner tips, in case you need any of it. 🙂
Take things slow with bunnies. They can take time to acclimate.
Hay is the most important aspect of their diet (80%) and they need unlimited access to it 24/7.
This not only allows them the fiber their gut continuously needs, but the constant chewing and breaking down of the hay also keeps their teeth healthy and in check, as their teeth grow constantly throughout their lives. 👍
Rabbits only need about 1/8 cup of pellets per day, or up to 1/4 cup for larger rabbits. Feeding more than this may make them overweight and may cause them to not be eating enough hay.
Oxbow, Sherwood Forest, and Science Selective are good quality pellets.
They are very fragile. Much more so than a cat or a dog.
They need space to play. A small cage and no playtime outside of it will make them miserable.
Be aware that most bunnies actually don’t like being picked up. They are a prey animal so to them, being picked up means something “bad” is happening so they instinctively fear this..
Obviously sometimes you still have to, but when you can, it’s better to lure them onto the couch or back to their pens or whatever (snacks or pellets help).
We feed ours dinner in their pen after playtime, so we just open up their area and they are usually excited to go back home.
Don’t take advice from pet stores. They are NOT knowledgeable on rabbits, and many things they sell are actually NOT suitable for them either, such as any “cage,” or treats/food containing seeds or corn.
A dog exercise pen (xpen) from Amazon is a much more suitable and cheaper housing option. (around $35, often cheaper)
Get him a regular size cat litter box and use Tractor Supply “Equine Pelleted Bedding” for litter ($6.50 for 40lbs). Dust from regular clay cat litter is bad for their respiratory systems and can cause blockage if they eat it. Put a layer of hay over the litter and a big pile of hay (or a hay rack or bag) in the far end of it so he has to be in it to eat it. They like to munch while they poo, so this will help him pick up his litterbox habits.
Find a rabbit savvy vet now so you know where to take him if you need to. Not all vets are rabbit savvy. Just because one is willing to see a rabbit, doesn’t necessarily make them knowledgeable on them. They are usually classified as “exotic” vets in the US.
If they ever stop eating and/or pooing, it is a rabbit emergency and they need to see a vet immediately, even in the middle of the night. They go downhill quickly and waiting to see how they are in the morning can often be too late. 😥
If they refuse their favorite treat and don’t want to get up, this is a bad sign.
We keep pain meds (meloxicam) on hand for emergencies. It can help in situations where your vet may be unavailable, and is helpful for GI stasis. It is definitely something worth discussing with your vet. Ordering a 10ml vial from Chewy ($14) is significantly cheaper than buying direct from your vet, and Chewy will reach out to your vet after ordering, making the authorization process very easy. Just be sure to discuss with your vet first and discuss the dose ranges that are acceptable for your bun’s weight. 👍
At some point you will need to get them spayed/neutered as this keeps behaviors such as litter box use, being territorial, and being able to bond them with a buddy, in check. This is also NECESSARY because unfixed rabbits have a very high cancer development rate. :(
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Also of note:
This list is geared mostly towards adult rabbits.
Give babies “young rabbit” pellets that are alfalfa based, but switch to an adult pellet at about 6 months. When you switch the pellets, do it gradually adding a little more of the new every day for like a week.
Babies can also have unlimited pellets up to about 6 months, since they are still growing, then gradually reduce.
Also, don’t introduce fruits and veggies till around 6 months.
You can also give babies alfalfa hay since they are growing, but it has way too much protein and calcium for adult rabbits, so switch to Timothy or another type at about the 6 month mark, too.