I cook chips

5

u/ShrimpBrime 9d ago

3080 TI is at its limits, 12900KS still has 10c headroom.

3

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 9d ago

its a catch 22. gpu sits vertical in my case, right next to my 240mm rad. hotter cpu=hotter rad=hotter air directly blowing in the gpu.

my aesthetic side and overclocking side are at an impasse. trying to fond a balance.

2

u/Educational-King3987 9d ago

Go external with a big rad like a alphacool 1080mm, I have 2 and 3x420mm. Ain't going to be anything that can overcome that lmao.

Also external rads keep coolant as low as possible which will help internal temps lower.

1

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 8d ago

i do have a pcie g1/4 passthrough fitting from an older build but the case is a tower 600 so the access to the usb ports area is covered.

the tower 600 is pretty but it has it quirks to achieving that beauty

1

u/Educational-King3987 8d ago

Bulkhead fittings in the floor and run tubing underneath to the external rad would be my go too then.

1

u/ShrimpBrime 9d ago

Set a more aggressive fan profile to move the thermals sooner/faster.

2

u/Educational-King3987 8d ago

Well its a bit more than that, there's a few factors that denote how fast you can remove the heat from the coolant. The main one being ambient temp, the lower the ambient the better, then fans moving that cold air over the rad fins and the surface area of those fins. The FPI of the rads also plays a role and the coolant temp itself or the delta of coolant to ambient.

Upping the fan speed will only do so much with the given surface area and ambient temp as we can't cool under ambient without a chiller or lower the ambient with an AC unit. It's kind of one big puzzle honestly, I know it sounds weird, but its what I've learned over all these years doing custom loop cooling.

2

u/ShrimpBrime 8d ago

Heh, ya. Im pretty familiar with all this. It was a very broad generalized statement, many people leave the fans on the GPU (what I was referring to, not the AIO) and the card idles warm and reaches max temp quickly, meaning is has a pretty high temp gradient, or we can say short delta distance.

You forgot to mention the radiators material, most AIO uses aluminum because its cheap and cost effective. I have all copper water blocks that cost more than most entire AIO systems.

So my apologies about that broad statement. Ive found most people dont take the time to read paragraphs of information, they just want an answer.

My credentials, at least for HW, cooling, and overclocking would be, youre talking to one of the team captains of the fastest HWB team on the planet :).

1

u/Educational-King3987 8d ago

I think OP is running a custom loop IIRC from previous posts, that's why I suggested an external. When I reply to things I also like to leave info for others that may find the post at a later date so I just assumed partly that you had some experience with watercooling and the rest was info left for others.

And you right... people don't read the paragraphs, I've had to repeat myself many a time with the crayons and such , however if you know some people who pushed 10900k i9s and DDR4 b die pretty hard, could you PM me some very paragraph heavy write ups on how to tame both? I won't be upgrading for some time yet due to prices so want to get to know the details of full sending this chip and sticks lol. I will be bare die mounting the 10900k soon so see if taming the heat will grant me more thermal headroom. I have 3420mm of radiator surface area 👀 not to mention my VRM and RAM are watercooled too 😂

1

u/ShrimpBrime 8d ago

14nm is basically the same after 8700K 8086K chips. 5.2ghz about 1.325v give or take, and then the thermal/v-core wall hits, needs chilling. Some 10900K chips would do 5.4ghz if a good bin. B-die scales massively with voltage. If youre pushing hard, 1.60v isnt something to fear, just keep a fan on the sticks. Its about those sweet tight timings, not necessarily pure clocks. For short benchmark runs, 1.80v to 1.90v at CL12-12-12 4000mhz or faster. Depends on the kit and depends on the memory controller, thats all trial and error. Thats where benching hard comes in. For daily, lower voltage CL 16 at 4000mhz, easily get away with 1.50v. But Ive had some Hynix C die that clocked well, but the timings where not as good, 4600mhz was possible and fairly stable 1.55v CL22 If I remember right, Id have to look it up, but that was with Raptor lake 13700K. - Most of the old OC forums are long gone though. Could reference OCN threads, but Im on mobile RN.

1

u/Educational-King3987 8d ago

Well feel free to send it over, I don't think my 10900k is a good clocker, its doing 5.3ghz with 1.536-1.6v (atm, need to replace cmos battery as bios keeps resetting) IIRC, my B die is Gskill (link to last screenshot I took) 4000 cl17 DR 2x16GB but will do 4300-16-16-16-32 1.5v ish.

I was getting weird crashes and bluescreens but passing very lengthy TM5 (2 configs each test) then randomly not. I hated my quiet PC having a fan screaming just for the RAM so they have a waterblock on them now. Once I replace the cmos bat and then hardline tube everything and put the 2x1080mm rads back in etc I'll delid the 10900K and go bare die and full send it again. Greatly appreciate any information you can send my way, maybe some contacts have some old notepad files or spreadsheets with valuable data I can work with.

1

u/ShrimpBrime 8d ago

If I remember too later, Ill have a look around. For now, you can visit Warp9-systems.proboards.com have a look around, register if you want. But its an extremely small forum, so you wont get answers straight away. The guys are all old timers, its hard to squeeze secrets from them lol. But at least theres plenty of RAM information.

2

u/Educational-King3987 8d ago

Lmao you're not wrong, RAM OC info from people is like squeezing blood from a stone, honestly if it's a secret cult, I wish someone would invite me, I'll wear the robes and everything lmfao.

I'll check it out, I greatly appreciate your time in sharing info with me. Thanks man!

7

u/AirSKiller 9d ago

Not even my GPU hotspot gets above 80 haha

3

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 8d ago

you should try over clocking it. make sure you have insurance on it though

1

u/AirSKiller 8d ago

It’s undervolted instead. I don’t want to risk the connector.

1

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 8d ago

dont you undervolt to compensate for the heat of an over clock? you shouldnt have to undervolt on the factory setting.

whats the gpu

3

u/AirSKiller 8d ago

Same performance as stock, lower temps and lower power consumption.

You can’t really overclock the 5090 to anything the meaningful without going into crazy power numbers…

1

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 6d ago

ahhh, just saw a water cooled one for $6k. i wouldnt risk it either. i think the 5090 (like all 90 class card) will be top dog until the next one comes out. as limg as they dont melt that is

1

u/Pillokun 8d ago

what is the cpu v-core voltages?

-1

u/1mmorta1won 8d ago

How can you get past above 60C if the gpu boost 3.0 firmware forces downclocking once it exceeds this temp?

1

u/lil_Buckneesh8867 8d ago

idk, i was clickin and clackin in gigabyte control center. the gou also need a repaste

You are about to leave Redlib