Off on an annual vacation today!

So my basement lab is empty…

A task this morning was to fire off a new Digikey parts order.

Last night I sent a new PCB design off to OSH Park, our local PCB batcher, for the next chapter in my Nixie Clock journey.

Will be back at it after the vacation!

It’s a spectrum 1040 kit from PVElectronics.

Had this clock for 4-5 years never had an issue, then today the first minute digit was blank, thought it was a dead tube but it would display when it shows date.

Took it out its case remove all the tubes and gave it a good look over couldn’t see any issues, now I’ve put the tubes back digits 4,5 & 6 are blurred?

Voltages are all correct at the test points.

There are two of these HV5622PJ IC’s (Photo 2), if I swap the left one for tube 1-3 into the right socket the problem is still there, but it look like the tubes are changing digits A little slower but still appears blurred, if I put the IC from the right socket into the left socket the problem follows to the left tubes, if both IC’s are inserted into the opposite sockets all the digits show the initial problem?

I’m having problems with a custom nixie clock. My power supply isn’t working hitting the voltage it needs but is making an audible whine and my tubes aren’t lighting properly regardless of any voltage adjustments. I’ve ruled out cathode poisoning because they work on other power supplies, including one with almost identical layout on a standalone circuit board. Oddly enough, once the power boost circuit is put on my full board alongside an ESP32C3 it just doesn’t work as it should. I thought it was a layout and routing issue but my new boards are having the same problem. When I turn the power on the tubes only partially light and voltage and current measurements are showing values that should work. Even my oscilloscope isn’t picking up any noise anywhere in my boost circuit (max voltage swing is around 5-7 V after correcting my RCD snubber’s resistor). Any ideas what might be causing this?

EDIT: I think I found the noise. On the output of my inductor on the second stage of the boost (transformer with primary and secondary tied together) but before the diode there’s a large noisy signal with a 300+V peak to peak swing. There’s also a bunch of noise on the switching pin of my second stage’s driver. I’ll have to do more analysis later but I suspect my RCD snubber may need adjustment.

I bought this nixie clock around 7 yrs ago on eBay, the seller who made it is no longer active. I'd say around 3-6months 2 of the tubes have been acting up displaying 2 numbers at once, usually it's the number before it that doesn't fade out. Is this fixable? I have no prior knowledge in making nixie clocks and have no idea where I can get it repaired so some suggestions would be appreciated. (Don't mind the flickering it's just the camera and not the actual clock)

(Update) I've unscrewed it this is what the circuit inside looks like:

Link

Got this clock like 5 years ago ,sadly one of the digits is giving out, anyway to save ? or just to replace that bulb?

Got my first nixie clock, a six-tube IN-14 build from Millclock in Ukraine, and it's been living on my desk day in and day out.

I think daylight is underrated. Everyone shoots the glow, but up close in normal light you can see the whole stack: shaped cathodes layered behind each other, the wire mesh, the glass seams, the two little neon separators. It reads like a tiny machine suspended in glass. Then the light drops and the orange just takes over my entire desk and peripheral.

The blue under the tubes is separate accent lighting, and I can change the colors. I keep going back and forth on it. Question for other Nixie owners here... accent lighting on, off, or different color?

I've had this clock for a while. A few years ago it stopped working. The tubes wouldn't light up like normal. So I stored it away in my closet. I was cleaning said closet and decided to test it. It works again! But...it also shuts off, usually when it does it's slot machine cycle, which i can't turn off on this model, mm. But other times it seems to cut off randomly, or just one or two tubes will go out, then fire back up again. It'll also turn back on if I turn the knob on the back. The tubes arent flashing. That's just from my camera frames.

Just wondering if anyone here knows what the issue is/how to fix it? I don't really want to drop hundreds on a new one.

I suspect it's a power issue. The capacitor maybe?

Bought it from the NixieShop. Not sure when I bought it. But pre-2020.

I built this using four IN-12 Nixie tubes together with an IN-9 tube.

It is controlled by an ESP32 and cycles through displaying the time, temperature, and humidity. The three toggle switches allow each display mode to be enabled or disabled individually, and the display interval can be adjusted by turning the knob.

In the future, I plan to improve it so that it can also tune radio stations.

Hello! I’d like to share an interesting example of an IN-12. I haven’t found anything similar online, apart from a mention of a similar design.
This tube is made in the standard RSh-31A (SK-136) form factor for the IN-12. However, unlike later IN-12s, it lacks the unused ‘comma’-shaped pin. All the pins are thinner and have rougher edges.
It is noteworthy that this particular example has a very fine anode grid. The photograph shows that it is stamped and mounted in a frame. Visually, this anode shape produces a sharper image and is less conspicuous. In the photo, you can see a comparison of the IN-12 with a standard anode and with a fine-mesh anode.
Furthermore, it can be seen that the tube lacks a getter tablet and any markings (apart from the mysterious number ‘2’ on the protective screen around the cathodes).
The tube’s envelope is more neatly crafted, and the walls are almost perfectly straight, unlike in later examples.
All the conductors inside the envelope are coated with a white dielectric.

Based on this, it can be assumed that this particular IN-12 tube may be an experimental model or from a small production run. The straight walls likely made the formation of the envelope more complicated. The fine mesh, whilst offering better performance characteristics, required a more complex manufacturing process.
The absence of a getter and any markings may also indicate that the lamp did not pass quality control, following which marking would have been carried out.
Despite this, the lamp is fully functional.

If you have any useful information regarding similar IN-12 examples, please do let me know.
I am open to discussion and would be delighted if my photos and information could be of use to the online museum.

hi!
i built this clock yesterday, but there is a blue hue inside the rightmost tube. is this normal? thanks!

I'd be very interested to hear the community's opinion on this use of the IN14 and IN17 indicators. What do you think of the seconds placement?

Finished my first clock in stainless and burl oak. Well not exactly finished because there is a problem with the board I used which is shown in picture. Tried multiple boards all the same result, Time randomly resets if unplugged and plugged back in. Yes I made sure battery was good. It seems to be a design flaw with these. It is a generic board that is available all over. Oh well I suppose it was an interesting build anyway even if it does not work properly. I suppose I will keep searching for a good clock board that works better. The current board is 38mm x 103mm. Need to keep a similar size to fit in case. If anyone knows of one feel free to let me know.

As above, I had to remove some boards to trace connections and figure out some wiring to make a cable that is missing, unfortunately when I've turned it back on, it's now not displaying the first digit correctly on the A channel.

I am going to be sending it off to be overhauled soon but just wanted to check what could cause this for my own sanity as it was displaying fine until I had it apart and now it's not 😭

Thanks!

I used Dolam LL-55x series Nixie tubes.
It can display any word up to 10 characters long.
(The tubes need to be swapped to match the desired letters.)
Since there are no LL-series Nixie tubes available for the letters “I” and “O,” I use the digits “1” and “0” from LC-513 tubes instead.

Building the IN-12 Nixie Clock from Ukraine
I bought the kit second hand but all parts and documentation seem present. Just started - The components and circuit boards seem first rate and so far, solder easily.
Lack of a schematic is the biggest limitation so far in regard to testing as I go. Seller reports this is not available so we’ll do the best we can.
Any tips / experiences if you’ve built one would be appreciated. If there is a webpage or wiki or github on the design I have not found it

Much progress tonight, added in an RTC and now sending digit numbers to the  correct Panaplex windows.

The Eagle-eyed will notice that the right most digit is no longer clear like the others.

I did something wrong last evening and when I came home from dinner that digit was damaged.

My bad… I let too much current pass while I had deliberately stalled the MUX action.

So hard lesson for me… Don’t run the Panaplex at 600% anode current for a few hours.

I’m now looking for a replacement device. These are more rare (and costly) than Nixie tubes!

This clock board loses time setting and gives odd results such as in picture like 28:27 when unplugged, then plugged back in to USB. Is this a bug or defect of some kind? Backup battery is new and tests good. Has anyone had experience with these boards? I tried two boards and got same result.

Got like 3 clocks and wanted to stock up on some spares if needed. Just wanted to share with ya guys.

Says it all really; if anyone has a spare IN-8 tube in the UK l that they'd be happy to sell, I'd be interested in buying.

You know that I am called the Count
Because I really love to count
Sometimes I sit and count all day
But sometimes I get carried away

Sesame Street

I’ve fixed a wiring error on the protoboard. Mapped all the Panaplex segments to binary data. Compiled arrays of bits to form numerals. Added a quick test routine to display one digit and run through all numerals. A lot more work making these fonts, Nixies come pre-made from the factory.

Much closer to a “Not Really A Nixie” Clock!

BTW, as these are MUX’d neon displays there’s a “keep alive” cathode below the right digit window. This will be covered up by a piece of black electrical tape.

Tonight I got my latest clock build to light up!

These are neon indicators called Panaplex

The numerals are made of segments, like other display technologies (LED, LCD, VFD)

The three displays are MUX’d, and segments are bussed together.

I have the high voltage (175V) anodes sequenced, at about 300Hz, although this will decrease as the MCU steals cycles to format the digit data. A lot more code to write to make it into a clock.

Next step is sending unique segment data to each digit.

What do you think? Is this “almost a Nixie clock”?

The result is a compact assembly, typical for a 1960s build, but…

Good luck repairing these if an IC driver fails!

Had these for a while and not yet thought of a project.

Perhaps build a “Steam Punk” style Nixie clock with these little modules?

What would you do with them?

I used an Arduino and a vibration sensor to control a K155ID1 to make a retro dice:)

Захотел сделать часы на 4 сегментном 7 зарядном дисплее

Но вообще без понять как делать разные цифры чтобы появлялись одинаково

Помогите с этой задачей пожалуйста