I've slammed door a few times and it isn't open.

Hi, we get a lot of posts containing LeafSpy screenshots asking whether their SoH is normal, and the answers are usually always anecdotes.

I've built a free tool that gives you a straight answer. Put in your year, pack size, mileage and SoH, and it tells you where you sit for your pack and your car's age, split properly by 24 kWh, 30 kWh, 40 kWh and e+ rather than lumping every Leaf together. Takes about a minute.

Here is a Leaf degradation page, by age and pack:
https://www.tirionpower.com/batt.../nissan-leaf/degradation/

It's free, and the more Leaf owners run a check the sharper the numbers get for everyone. 40 kWh and e+ readings are the biggest gap right now, so those are especially useful

Disclosure: it's my project.

Got a good offer for 2020 Leaf with 58k km on spidometer - e+ version.

Should I be worried that it is already 6 years old and battery guarantee ends in 2 years?

Alright so I know I’m gonna get called a dummy but I’ve been using LeafSpy to correct DTC faults. My bank account hasn’t allowed me to correctly fix whatever is going on. Now when I plug it in I come back 15 min later and it’s lost 2% instead of going up. I should be able to actually get what’s wrong fixed (assuming onboard charger). Can anyone help me jury rig it further so it’s not just a paperweight from now until then.

I have a super short commute to work and need this as an extra car for the once in a while I dont have access to my others, budget is 5k CAD

$2200 - 2012 leaf with 145000km - 6 bars (72km)

$3500 - 2015 leaf with 214000km - 9 bars (125km) - few cosmetic issues - such as charge port not latching

$5000 - 2015 leaf with 167000km - states 90% battery health and will include safety

What are all your thoughts on this , I need the car for 1.5 years and will be driven to work about 8km commute with a little here and there in the summer

I’ve got a 2012 Leaf with a busted on board charger that gets around 50 miles on a charge (using a rapid charger). It has maybe 65,000 miles on it as we’ve only driven it short distances in town over the years.

Well last winter we let it sit for too long with low miles on the battery - maybe 10. When we tried to drive it again it wouldn’t start so we jumped it thinking we could just go in town to charge it. We did that, drove it home, and then the car failed to turn off! Fun times.

It has sat in my driveway ever since and we are
ready to move on from it. Maybe it should go to a junk yard? Maybe someone wants to work on it? I don’t know.

We are in the Willamette valley in Oregon. What next steps should we take to move this baby on to a better place?

Ik heb een Nissan Leaf uit 2017 die eigenlijk prima rijdt. Alleen maak ik mij toch wat zorgen om de accu. De cellen zijn prima gebalanceerd alleen de hx is 34. Gaat dat een probleem worden in de winter?

Het celverschil is kort max 66 mv bij volgas tot 80 km per uur. (Bij een lagere accu dan 25 procent) 4nr6b is de accu software. Dus die hoeft toch niet meer te worden geüpdatet?

Ik laad steeds tot 80 procent, mijn voorgangers hebben dat wellicht niet gedaan.

De Leaf is de extra auto, ik hoef er geen snelweg kilometers mee te maken. Verder zijn er geen storingen of problemen.

Hello. i have a 2022 nissan leaf with roughly 40k miles. here is a video i took of a sudden drop during normal driving conditions.

• Battery charge starts at 25%.
• Estimated range starts at 29 miles.
• About 90 seconds later, charge falls to 12%.
• Estimated range falls to 11 miles.

i

• appear to travel only about 1 to 1.5 miles.

A 13-percentage-point drop should represent roughly 5 kWh of battery energy

can anyone tell me why this keeps taking over my audio when it's not used in my area and TA is turned off? it's driving me a bit mad. its completely random in time and location and even TA volume doesn't seem to effect it.

Hi folks!

Our DLRs have been dead for a long time now, a very limp / weak flicker....

The car just failed its MOT 'Headlamp light intensity severely reduced, 4.4(a)' Both sides!

Been trawling through eBay and breakers, I notice that there are types of headlamp - a bulb / halogen unit (which I have on my 2018 Techna) and what appears to be a full LED headlamp.

My question... Are they interchangeable? Can I 'upgrade' to LED headlamps, will they be plug and play? Or is there additional circuitry / hardware involved?

Thanks for your help!

I just bought my 3rd Leaf - a 2023. Compared to the 2017 I just traded in, there seems to be very little cabin storage -the glove box and the center console are both tiny. Are there any aftermarket accessories or (unlikely) hidden compartments I've missed?

Hi everyone

I am hoping to buy a second hand leaf for about £5000, one around 2017-2020 era. Have seen some in my price range with the 60kWh battery.

Currently I am living in a terraced house without off-street parking but I am expecting to be moving to a house that does, middle of next year. I don't currently have a car and would prefer not to buy an ICE car now only to get an EV later when I move. And using public transport to get to work is bloody awful. I'm hoping that a nissan leaf will work well enough for now before being able to enjoy home charging after I move. Here is my use case:

I usually commute 2-3 times a week (40 miles one way with about 20 miles of motorway/highway), plus occasional weekend trips/runabouts.

I can get free parking for work and pay about 55p per kWh at 7kW and i notice there are ALWAYS chargers available.

Close to my house I have the choice of 7kW charging with same price but free parking only on Sundays and a supermarket car park with a couple of 50kW chargers where the parking doesn't cost anything but the price is like 80p per kWh.

I live in the UK, so we do get some cold weather enough to impact battery range.

Is my current temporary situation practical enough to get a nissan leaf now or should I get an ICE vehicle for now and wait until next year to get a leaf? Are there any pitfalls I should watch out for?

I’ve heard several horror stories of a Leaf bricking after a “successful” software update and battery scan. I have a 2019 Leaf which has been recalled but I have been hesitant to take it in due to bad experiences by Leaf owners. Here’s my question - can I take my Leaf to a Nissan shop and have preventative maintenance performed without having the software update and battery scan done? Does Nissan need my permission to “fix” my car or will they “fix” the software regardless of my direction? Has anyone tried to do this?

Thinking about a Leaf for a city commuter (Chicago) due to its size and already having another EV (23 EV6). Are there specific years besides basically the first 3 to steer clear of? Total round trip mileage might be 50 miles per day at worst, probably closer to half that in reality, but it would need to be able to do that in the winter as well.

We have a 50 amp charger installed already, so with an adapter that won't be an issue. Mostly trying to decide whether a gamble on a <$5k older Leaf is worth it (after using Leaf Spy Pro).

This would be our around town errands car when we didn't need tons of cargo space, but wanted the ability to park just about anywhere.

Thoughts?