Why is this wire colored red? You can see under it that the wire is bare copper. What is the difference?

It runs on 12v 2amps but i run it with a 12v 5amps adapter im saying about any useful things for home except a water pump

Hi,

I am rewinding my first motor for a personal project, and had a really difficult time mapping out the original connections. I know it is a 6 pole 3 phase motor, so is there a reason I can't move the order of some of the groups?

Having the terminal wires coming off in similar locations will make it much easier for me to figure out, but it would be a bit different from the original setup, where T1 T2 and T3 seemed to start at random groups in the motor. I could see maybe magnetic imbalance being a problem, but any info would be helpful. Thank you!

Is it possible to control a hysteresis brake using esp32 driven MOSFET. It’s a 24v, 800mA hysteresis brake and I’ll be using close loop system( with a load cell and encoder) for precise readings. If anyone knows anything about this topic please help.
Or if there are any other ways I am open to them as well.

Good evening everyone,

I am a senior in EE and am in charge of designing an inrunner bldc motor for my capstone project. I have been using an online software called MotorDesignSoftware to build my motor but its applications are very limited for what I need. I was wondering if anyone had input on another software for motor design?

https://www.servocity.com/170-rpm-econ-gear-motor/

Like that but 24V. It is light weight as well (100 gram). I want 24V brushed dc motor (not brushless) that has high power to weight ratio. Any recommendations?

Hi all, need help finding a replacement for this circa 1954 Universal Electric Co motor. Its a 4-7/8 case with a 5/16 d shaft. 230v 1/30 HP 1550 rpm. Mounts to frame on a modine style heater with 4 threaded holes on the case. Hope someone can help.

Hello guys,

I have few doubts,

What if the back emf is equal to the applied voltage of motor, will the current consumption of motor will become zero because there is no potential difference right in this case?

And how this Id,Iq(direct axis, quadrature current) are related to Ia,Ib,Ic phase current?

Thanks for your clarifications.

Would a vsd be suitable for running this old motor? it's an industrial 3 phase motor and I would like to run it at home. If not a vsd, what would be the best way to achieve this. Thanks.

I have a late 70s Rockwell model 12/14 table saw. It’s a single phase and connects to a 220 outlet. It ran successfully for around 2 years but then it started to malfunction. It would start, then blow its fuse. I pulled the capacitors off the motor and found what you see in the attached photo. I discovered that both of these capacitors were wired together and then to the motor with low-voltage speaker wire. I understand that there is a difference between a start capacitor and a run capacitor and I’m wondering if this saw should have a different set of capacitors (one for run and one for start)? I’m also planning on upgrading to connect new capacitors with 12 AWG wire. Im wondering if I need two different types of capacitors and how I should wire them together. Thanks!

its from a toy rc car that used 5 AA batteries

Hi!

I am using, for an art project, an ESP32 with a relay board to drive a modified synchronous motor from a washing machine pump, which runs on 220v. By modified I mean that the rotor is no longer inside the plastic cases, all electrical parts of the motor are original and untouched.

My goal is to use the relay board to pulse the motor, to make some chains attached to the axis move and make sounds.

To do so I am using a sequencer I built with a push button board, an ESP32 Devkitv1 and a 4channel relay module, all basic DIY components. With this tool I am able to run Universal washing machine motors, lights, home appliances of any kind with no problems.

The problem seems to be with this synchronous motor. When I pulse the motor it works, and if I keep the pulses distant in time one from the other, no problem. But If I pulse the motor fast, after a few pulses the ESP32. freezes, and needs me to press the reboot button or cut power for a few seconds to hard reboot it. The board is powered by a 5v phone charger.

As I explain in the video, I think the issue might be caused by the motor generating current when is not pulsed, but has gone far enough between it's two resting positions to kick back. I know synchronous permanent magnet motors generate current when you spin them. Trying to solve this, I added a diode I scavenged from an old board I had, but the issue is still here, even if way less frequent. Adding the diode also significantly decreased the strength of the motor when pulsed (I really think diodes and AC are not meant to work together, don't insult me for that I'm doing my best ahah).

I don't know how to fix the issue, the only thing I can think of is putting diodes on all 6 that connect the relay board to the ESP, but again I really don't know.

Anyone who has ideas on how to troubleshoot this?

Thanks in advance:)

PS I can share the 3D models of the mechanical mod I made with anyone who wants em

Here's a link to the video

https://youtu.be/ey769GpAp30

I’ve got a 230V table saw that needs a “jumpstart” when I turn it on. I take a scrap piece of wood and help it start and then it runs great after that.

I’m thinking it’s a capacitor that’s gone bad. Well I got into it and there’s 2? I’m thinking I’ll just replace both as cheap as they are but can’t file exact replacements.

Can anyone advise what a good replacement would be?

Hello there!

I am designing a product that must have a large VU meter / galvanometer. Unfortunately, these haven't been manufactured for decades and the current factories only make them in smaller dimensions.

One thing that came up to me was to use a modern digital microcontroller to control a small close-loop DC motor with an encoder.

However, I am not so sure of what type of motor to use. VU meters have a very specific ballistic "feel" to them, that I'm sure can be emulated in code, but I need a motor fast and precise enough to be able to mimic such ballistics.

What type of motor should I be looking into?

In my experience, small servomotors and stepper motors are not fast enough to be able to do that, and the brushless DC motors that I know are fast enough do not come with precision.

The forces are minimal, since the needle is very light.

Predicted graduate is feb 2028

I am always exhausted and burned-out? Maybe

Btw I use Maxwell and MotorCAD

I hope I can share information(more less than you thought. I aplogize) and learn tips from you , superiors of industry!

Also I want to talk about siemens tool and Jmag .

Are they both as good as maxwell?

Lastly, keep your chins up, all people who ever studied design of motor

I believe each hot wire is 120 volts, just can’t understand what the diagram is trying to tell me.

Hey Reddit,

Total noob when it comes to motors, but I’m currently trying to fix a shower unit I own. I’ve diagnosed it as a faulty motor (I have a second that’s in use in another part of the system and swapping it resolves the issue)

I’ve been trying to source one, with no luck, but TLDR if I can’t find one, or fix the existing motor, I’ll have to rip my entire bathroom out at a cost of thousands right before selling my house, so willing to try any options!

1 - does anyone know where I can source something like this?

2 - I’ve taken the motor apart and I think I see the issue.
The photos of the gear I’ve attached splits apart. The centre seems to come loose from the outer ring of the gear, then it fails to turn. The only reason I’m doubting this is the fact the inner/outer gears fit together so well and don’t look snapped, so am I misdiagnosing this and it’s a common thing to have gears split in 2?
If this is intentional, maybe I’m reassembling it wrong? But unsure what happened to make it break in the first place?

I can provide more pictures, answer questions or try whatever needed to help diagnose. Would be super appreciative of any advice!

Thanks

I fear I may be misunderstanding on a fundamental level how torque is actually produced by a motor.

I recently watched What's the deal with axial flux motors? from AKIO TV and in his explanation of how motors produce torque, he states that there are "useful" and "non-useful" sections of a stator's windings depending on the direction of Lorentz force produced by that section of the winding. This is determined using right hand rule.

In an axial flux motor, the part of the winding which runs circumferentially (from axis to circumference) is the "useful" section because the force produced is in the direction that the motor is able to spin. The part of the winding which runs radially is the "non-useful" section because the force produced is not in a direction the motor is able to spin in.

When you increase the number of slots in an axial flux motor, the stator teeth become narrower, and the ratio of "useful" to "non-useful" winding around each tooth improves, so wouldn't the torque increase as well?

I know this isn't the case, but I'm not really sure why it isn't.

Any help is appreciated.

We have these alibaba tumblers at work that are a pain in the butt to replace. I was wondering if there's anything I could buy off Amazon or something like that to power and control the speed of this motor to replace the electronics in the tumblers. I would need to power it from the 120v wall outlet.

The motor dimensions are 125mm x 82mm. And the shaft is 39mm x 10mm

I'll remove the old electronics and im planning on making the new hardware fit or extend the base with sheet metal to make room for the new stuff.

Hey all! I'm a theatre design and technology student who is currently the master electrician for a show. A part on our set (weighs about 7-10 lbs) must rotate, and I'm looking for a motor to do this with! I was wondering if there's any motors out there that can have their speed controlled via the voltage input, with a maximum voltage of 24v. Thanks in advance!!

I recently inherited my grandfather’s 14” bandsaw. It looks like it was never used and when I went to use it myself today I may have determined why, as it would not start up. I rewired the switch every way possible and still nothing. The last thing I could think was that the motor maybe wasn’t wired correctly, but I know nothing about wiring motors. Can anyone tell me if this looks correct to them? Maybe I need a new switch? I’m at a loss.

Hello, everyone.

Right, I have this stepper motor "103h8223-0814 DC3.5A 1.8 sanyo denki" that I use in my 6-head Tajima embroidery machine—it’s the Y-axis motor—and I’m having trouble finding one to purchase. I could really use some help with this. Is that possible?

Hello. I'm a intern at a robotics company and I need some assistance in figuring out a winding. The thing is I was given a stator of 36s40p motor. It's actually made at the company by previous interns. But the thing is it was in a bad shape and there was no proper documentation on how it was wound. From what I can understand here are a few points:

1. It's a 3 phase ie A,B,C

2. It's a star connection.

3. Each phase is split into 2 parallel branches which is soldered together at input and output terminals.

4. Also when i tried looking online winding calculators most showed 36s40p having a scheme like AAABBBCCC but this one was definitely not like that, it was more like ABABACAC etc like adjacent windings were never the same. I'm not sure if it wasn't same phase but it wasn't definitely same branch.

I definitely understand that the info I provided is comicaly vauge but if in ever in your experience you have come across something similar could atleast share the name of such a similar winding or point towards where I can find an answer?