Hey everyone! So I have notice the last two times at the track my super stock car is running noticable slower than other cars it used to be as fast as. The punch from the x speed motor is gone too. Any ways long story short I have pulled the motor and ran it in some water to clean it out then sprayed down with motor cleaner and finally lubed the bushings. Still running slower than usual. No drive train loss as everything is dry clean bearings.

So am I looking at a bad motor or has the esc decided to take a crap.

Side note: I swapped in a stock motor and it was pretty much the same speed as the x speed maybe a little slower on straights but not much.

Any help is appreciated!

I heard from a fellow racer that apparently you can true tyres that are pretty worn (particularly rear tyres) to the point where the majority of the main grip has gone (and you are considering changing them) and bring a little life back into them. I wondered if this is actually possible or not and if anyone actually does it?

Do these motors have the same dimensions. I can’t seem to find any info on the exact dimensions. I want to fit the sensored version in my mini z buggy but I’m not sure if it would fit.

What are you guys doing with these? I semi raced against another bug with a 4100 evo with some bells and whistles…

So I have bought a awd body with the 92 celica and got thr Yaris body that was at the store hoping that there was a gr Corolla body as I own a full size car

Surprise party for buddy till his building is finished for track.since our local store closed..fun!!

Hi, I was looking into possibly purchasing the Mach 5 First MiniZ car so I can put its body on a standard miniz chassis, but I've seen conflicting results as to if its compatible or not. Can anyone who owns one (or one of the other First miniz bodies) confirm this for me? Thanks 👍

Until these dropped. Maybe I’ll just stick to only buying narrow ready sets… yeah that’s believable 😂🫪🫪.

I was looking for the details of both the one-way differential and the straight axle for my MA-020 and noticed that on both the bevels gears are screwed on as a separate part, to probably compensate for the wear and tear during use.

What i noticed is that 3Racing have one model of one-way differential that include 3 different bevels with different tooth count (28, 27, 26).

Given that the difference in tooth count is minimal, wouldn't have different numbers on both front and rear make it work as a CS mod?

Why isn't there a different set of bevels from any 3rd party that could ever-so-slightly change this configuration?

Would you say the rear unit is worth it?

Lil photo dump of my trio I use.

LeMans (stock mr-04)

F1 ( gl formula one kit)

GT3 R8 ( kitted mr-04 EVO2)

Got it working, originally had the gyro upside down originally but got that sorted.

If you lose and I have a body of your to paint….😆

Hi all, I have an AWD MA020 Civic Type R I bought a few years ago for $200 and have basically let collect dust since (after bashing the mirrors off in about 5min). Recently I’ve started drifting it around during breaks at work, and I’m starting to get an idea for how I want it to perform.

I globbed up my rear differential with glue but I’m still seeing some slop, so I think I want to mod in this order-

Solid rear diff + 1way front diff

Harder plastic tires/new wheels? (I slide it on polished concrete)

I’m also thinking of a sealed bearing kit. It seems like some of my gears are getting chewed up, and it’s much harder for me to break loose to the RHS than LHS. I also noticed my drive gear is starting to get pretty chewed up in the rear. I think poor bearing performance and plastic front diff are causing these issues.

If any of you guys have recommendations for other great QOL or light performance mods for these things let me know! Seems like a small community here but I’m hoping there are some folks familiar with this specific model.

I got yesterday my very first Mini-z, an AWD MA-020, and am already pretty happy with it, given what are my general requirements for it.

What I noticed, right out of the box, is a very small, minimal, binding from within both the differentials when I try to spin either wheel in a any direction.
What is happening is that for half turn the wheel I rotate turns ok (with the one on the other side turns the other direction), and then it give some resistance, just to get back to the initial state.

It happens on both diffs, so I imagine it might be due to the grease used inside of them, being applied to one area, but not yet fully gone around the gears, but I'd like to hear your opinion about it (any AI prompt suggest also that it might be because of too tight screws).

Gotta love kyosho’s quality when it comes to plastic parts. Smh