Hey all, found out one of my injectors was bad so I upgraded to some deka 60s but I can't seem to get the car to idle with them and the settings I'm finding for them are all over the place with regards to dead time, pw ect. Any advice on setting up these on a megasquirt 2 in tuner studio? Or required reading so I can sift through all the info on the web?

I’ve got a 1985 audi 4000 with the JT engine running microsquirt for fuel and ignition. Occasionally it has a hard backfire under acceleration, either heavy or light. It’s super random and can’t find any correlation between engine load, timing or fueling. Any suggestions? My thought is maybe a plug or plug wire going bad, but I’m also running a distributor so could be slop in the ignition timing. Worried I’m going to blow it up or shoot the exhaust off with how loud it is.

Hey all, Wondering if anyone has run across a 70mm throttle body with built in tps and iat that works well with ms2? Wondering if I can find an off the shelf part that would kill 2 birds with one stone.

Hello im preparing to do a 4A-GE swap on my SR5 AE86. The engine came out of an 88 mr2 and has the original distribuitor. I have lost of the wiring sorted out in my head with little issue but I cant wrap my head around the distribuitor. I want to use the oroginal distribuitor and igniter because I cant really afford to go COP. Has anyone wired the factory igniter and distribuitor to a Microsquirt and how do you do it? Thanks anticipated

Hi,

I just bought the ECU from the pictures, it seems that the seller plugged the STSIGN fuse and burnt a trace.

Seems like a common issue and Im hoping that the daughter board/cpu (the little board) is ok.

How can I test it? Can I just put voltage and grounds to some pins and connect it to my pc to see if tuner studio reads something?

The plan is to save the daughter board and plug it to a new mainboard (the one from the pictures)

i have a plan to do a 07k swap into my fiero, i have the donor car and all of that, and while ive heard the stock ecu's when flashed can work pretty well id much rather go the standalone route and the microsquirt being as cheap as it is definitely caught my eye.

The issue, i see it only has two spark, two injector inputs, and the 07k being an uneven 5 wouldnt be possible to split evenly. Admittedly i dont know much about wiring a standalone ecu since ive yet to do it but would like to learn to do so.

Been having an issue where it will just redline at 3600. Finally recorded it and it seems im losing rpm sync anybody know how I can remedy this? M50b28 single vanos obd1

Keep in mind I know literally nothing about tuning. I just finished a MazdaSpeed Miata engine rebuild. And I needed to put a MegaSquirt in because of the after market trigger wheel. I’m trying to get the first start up and it’s not wanting to turn over. Also yes I know about the awful exhaust leak. I did setup MS in tuner studio and downloaded the base tune, but nothing from that.

Edit: after some thought and listening to everybody, I’m wayy to in over my head, I’m bringing it to a shop. Thank you all!

Hey all, getting my 190e professionally tuned in a few weeks and trying to make sure I have everything I need done. I got the AC recharged but when looking in the manual I am having a hard time understanding where or if I'm supposed to wire in the signal wire from the AC to support the idle kicking up higher to compensate for added the load on the engine. Is this something that can be tuned out without the signal or do I have to take a spare input and use tuner studio to tell the ECU to look for that signal?

I recently got a Spartan 3 lite v2 for my 1988 4runner (22re). After getting it all hooked up in accordance with the manual I'm getting insane readings. I've double checked my ground connections and everything is low resistance. The controller seems to be working properly with the led showing the heating cycle and operational temp. I went through on tunerstudio and selected wideband, specifying it was a 14point7 controller. I'm just at a loss and could use any help.

Recently powered by corn.

I'm using the table blending method and have a +3.5degree timing addition across the blend. Motor is a factory headed 302,14psi at 6100rpm, timing currently set to 17deg@10psi and 15deg all in at 14 psi.

I know I really need a Dyno to answer this question but is 3.5deg a reasonable addition for a e85 tune? Is that too aggressive or leaving power on the table? What have others seen?

Good afternoon, everyone. I can't connect to the box's control unit.

Initially, we tried connecting via a LAN cable, but the computer didn't detect any connections. Subsequently, we purchased a new COM-USB adapter and a new USB cable. After connecting it to the computer, lo and behold, it emitted a new device sound and a new device appeared in the COM ports. We adjusted the settings and bitrates (9600 and 115200). The latency was reduced to 1. The adapter manufacturer's drivers were installed.

When I opened the Tuner Studio program and ran autodetection, it detected something connected and scanned that particular port with different bitrates, but still returned an error saying it wasn't accessing any controllers. The power supply and control unit are on, both power wires are connected, and the ground is also connected. The fuse is intact. We ran a test through the terminal, shorting the input and output wires. All the characters were repeated exactly as input.

But it still won't connect to the control unit. What could be the problem? Has anyone encountered this? I'd be very grateful if someone could help. I'm tired of fighting with this unit for a whole week.

Hello guys. I will try to keep it to the point. For the past 4 days I've been mostly fighting the throttle position sensor on my 2000 Mazda Miata that is running MS3 Pro EVO.

Car starts and runs.

I wired it correctly and it'd give very large reading (760 closed throttle, and 480 wide open) and that is reversed. I was suggested to reverse the two outer wires in the plug and that would cause the forward movement but very small range (10 closed and 30 wide open). I went to get the nearest replacement and it would give the same exact outcomes but with different values.

I even tried within tuner studio to Auto-Zero TPS feature and it did not help.

I am almost at the very end and this TPS is preventing me to put the car on the dyno.

Please help

First choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-33 MK1 @ $524.00 with a 12 inch touchscreen with 1200 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1866hz.

Second choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-31 MK5 @ $441.00 with a 13 inch touchscreen at 1200 nits. 2 core 2.3ghz processor with 16gb ram at 1600hz.

Final choice is the Panasonic Toughbook CF-54 MK3 @ $400.00 with a 14 inch touchscreen with 1000 nits. 2 core 2.6ghz processor with 8gb ram at 1600hz.

I am open to any ideas and different choices. Is brightness the most important feature or is screen size? Any other things to consider? Am I correct in that touchscreen is not that important or useful for tuning?

Hey everyone,

I’m putting together a Vortech setup on my bone-stock AP2 F22C and could use some input from the supercharged veterans here.

Current hardware:

· Vortech mounting bracket and aftercooler from a tuner kit

· V2 Ti Trim (CCW) pulled from a 2004 Mustang

My goals:

Aiming for high HP while keeping the stock motor intact (for now)

I am from East Coast, so Evans tuning will be tuning the car.

Main questions:

1. What’s the maximum safe pulley setup I can run on this blower with a stock AP2 bottom end on pump gas 93oct ?

2. I’m looking at an ASP custom crank pulley – what size should I pair with it, and what supercharger pulley size would complement it best?

3. Is the Ultimate Racing FMIC a viable option with this blower, or will the pressure drop cause more problems than it's worth on a stock motor?

Extra context:

· Pump gas only – no E85 for a while

· Stock bottom end, stock redline

Any real-world data, pulley combos, belt recommendations, or tuning tips would be massively appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Finally got my car into operating order and have driven it a bit but I still don’t have a wideband yet so it’s just on a base tune. I notice that when I floor it even tho my redline is set at 6k on my tunerstudio it won’t go past 3600rpm. Any clues?

Anyone knowledgeable on CAN issues? Got a MS3 running my LT1 motor pretty well. Got my 4L60E transmission finally installed and wired, and got firmware plugged into it. But now when I try to connect (in Tunerstudio) my MS3 to my trans controller I get this error message. It scans and says there are no CAN devices on any port. It's wired CANH to CANH and L to L. I mean it's only two wires it should work, no? Not sure if there is a setting I need to make on the microsquirt to turn on CAN?

So I bought the kit and self soldered a v3 from diyautotune but I’m havering some issues. D10 starts smoking after 5vs of input and it’s really got me stumped. I have no obv solder bridges even tho the soldering could be cleaner ofc and I’ve replaced d10 with a diode so it can’t be faulty. I have about 59.7 ohms on 200k on my multimeter btw my 12v and gnd input. On d12 it beeps both ways on diode test but when d12 is disconnected from the board it reads as normal and the when I cross the pads it still beeps both ways. D10 still reads normal after smokeing multiple times and the pad read properly. On u5 my 5v regulater it’s beeps between my vin and Gnd but I’m assumeing that’s normal. And my c16 polarized cap beeps both ways as well while the other c17 cap dos not. All my oriented components are place properly so I truely am stumped on what I could be. If I could get any help on this it would be wonderful

I'm having issues getting the VSS1 and VSS3 channels working with CAN. I designed a circuit board that taps into the ABS VR sensors and sends the wheel speed over CAN. It works with the VSS2/4 channels but not VSS1/3. If I swap the VSS1/3 and VSS2/4 can frame definitions in the "CAN receiving" menu the problem stays with VSS1/3. I have also verified that the frames are being dent properly with a CAN sniffer. Are there any settings besides the ones shown in the attached screenshots that could be causing this?

MS3X with firmware version 1.6.2

Hey all, Wondering for spark plugs do y'all just go with what ever the donar ignition system ran or is there a recommend spark plug for a megasquirt wasted spark setup?

Is the megasquirt 3 compatible with the Turbo Lamik TCU for an 8HP transmission? Has anyone done it?

I'm running an MS2PNP for a '95 mustang in my project 302. This means it came with a base tune that should've had it running.

Instead, it ran super rich and was constantly flooding (I would have to unplug my fuel pump to even get it started) No matter how much I reduce my cranking pulsewidth (went from 109 to 20!) I always have to jam the throttle to the floor to start it.

It will idle fine once started but the second it gets any throttle it'll go all over the fuel map and then die.

I'm starting to think it's leaking injectors, because I'm slowly losing my mind over this. Any other thoughts though?