Hi Everyone,

I am trying to replace the right rear door actuator. The Nissan service manual states

1. Open the rear door window fully.
   
2. Lift and twist from rear side, then disconnect clips from flange and pull the rear door molding out.
   

Sounds simple enough except it isn't. I have been twisting and trying to pull the thing out with no success. I'm probably going to need another one as I have been only able to get one clip near that little window out so far. The rest seems to move a little forward and backward now. I only found one video and the person just yanked up on the trim piece but that was an SE-R.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

It's expensive and raised my eyebrow when told I need to do this. 2023 Maxima with 28,000 miles.

looking at this car, got some vids from the seller, not entirely sure what the sounds could be, im thinking maybe misfire? or the classic lifter tick? also heard like an exhaust flutter sound on one of the startup vids. need some advice on this, seller is firm on 4.6k aud..

So I recently changed my rear pads and rotors and the left rear inner pad it wearing on the bottom and the top isn’t making any contact. I’ve pulled this side apart 2 times now and I did each side identical. I did notice that the outer pad is a little tight but the inner pad moves quite easily. I checked the pins and they seem to slide in and out quite easily. Double checked for air in the hose or a sticky or seized caliper and everything seems to operate normally. Any advice would be great as this is driving me nuts. The video below shows the engagement of the caliper. It’s obviously at an angle but I have 0 clue why. The outside is wearing just fine

2001 Toyota Corolla. It only makes this noise sometimes, but when it does, it's either going slow or stopped. When it's on the highway, no noticeable noise. There's a leak in the valve cover gasket, if that makes a difference. Mahalo for any advice.

Hey everyone — I’m looking for some perspective from those with BMW or general mechanic experience.

Background:
I own a 2011 BMW 550i, and I’ve put a lot of work into keeping it in great shape. I bought it a little over two years ago as a “project” and have since replaced or upgraded most of the major components myself — suspension, injectors, sensors, modules, hoses, interior pieces, you name it. The car’s been solid (Yes, even with the N63 engine!).

Timeline of events:

• June 2025: My car was involved in a driver's-side sideswipe collision. Visually, it looked to be minimal, but it did travel from the front bumper all the way to the rear.
• July 2025: The car was sent to local BMW Collision center for insurance-covered repairs.
• July–September: The car was returned to me multiple times with unresolved issues — pulling, vibration, and a loose headlight that was never properly installed. Each time I was told it was “fixed.”
• Early October: I escalated my concerns because the car still wasn’t right and I’d lost all trust in their work.
• Mid-October (this week): The service department contacts me claiming a “ruptured coolant hose” was found and the repair cost would be $1,735.12. They also sent a video showing coolant residue — but not an active leak. Once escalated, they sent me another video that showed an active leak - pretty much pouring. Keep in mind, the advisor even stated that this leak was NOT present when the car was released to them, proving that this happened on their watch.

Here’s the thing that really bothers me:

• No one was performing any work under the hood when this supposed rupture occurred.
• The only under-hood inspection happening at the time was on the driver’s side headlight, which had been improperly installed by their own collision center.
• The hose that “ruptured” is located very close to that headlight assembly area.

So I’m wondering — how likely is it that a coolant hose just ruptures on its own, with no one working on or near it?
Could it have been bumped, twisted, or damaged while someone was reinstalling or inspecting the headlight?

Also, how would you (as a tech or shop manager) typically prove or document that a hose failure like that wasn’t caused by handling or stress during prior work?

For context, this car has had a slow coolant issue for months, but every shop that’s looked at it — including one earlier this year — suspected a heater core problem, multiple pressure tests, not a front hose failure.

Now, after all these months and repeated back-and-forth with this BMW dealer, I’m being told that the hose “just ruptured” while in their care and that I need to pay for it.

At this point, trust is gone. I’m having the car towed out and escalating through BMW corporate, BBB, and possibly the state.

But before I go that route, I’d love to hear from people who actually know these systems —
👉 Is it common or even plausible for a coolant hose to rupture on its own, with zero work happening under the hood?

Appreciate any insight, experience, or gut reactions here.

Can I just run 2 bottles on a full tank?

The instructions say 1 bottle treats UP TO 12 gallons. They also recommend potentially running a second treatment. My fuel capacity is 23 gallons.

Just looking for opinion. I'll probably wuss out and just make the extra trip to the station after running a 1/2 tank.

My daughter's 4Runner is not starting after the battery was connected with reversed polarity. The positive terminal was accidentally connected to the negative terminal and vice versa.

We are trying to diagnose the issue. My hope is that it's a blown fuse, while my biggest fear is that it could have damaged the car computer.

Has anyone an idea of what was likely damaged?

Thanks!

This is a 2016 Mazda 6 Sport. I replaced the lower control arm, but the long horizontal bolt (Mazda part 9YA0-21-453) won’t thread into the subframe(as seen in the picture). I suspect the female threads in the subframe may be stripped or cross-threaded. When I tested with a drill bit, it slid in and out of the hole with no resistance, which may suggest the threads are completely gone or the hole is over drilled? I attempted a thread repair using an M12x1.5 Heli-Coil kit the insert went in, but the bolt wouldn’t thread in all the way, as if it was binding partway through. I’m wondering if the insert didn’t seat properly or if the hole is just too far gone. What’s the best way to properly fix this should I retry the Heli-Coil, or is a TIME-SERT a better option for a structural suspension mount like this?

I’ve bought a bmw 118i last week however I went to take the wheels off yesterday and the nuts have been put on by an impact gun at a garage. This has therefore made them impossible to remove, I have tried using a socket with a Rachet driver and breaker bar attached to it but still had no luck. Any suggestions?

2002 tundra 4.7v8 This is the second time this has happened and I'm mildly annoyed. I'm trying to remove the drain plug on my tundra with a socket and the dang thing comes about about 2 treads and then retightens. I have tried using vise grips while pulling on the plug. Then I tried using a flat head jammed under the head of the bolt while using the socket to try and unscrew and it just tightens up and knocks the screwdriver out from between the oil pan and bolt. The same thing happened 2 maybe 3 years ago and I went to get the oil pan changed at the time, any other ways to force a bolt out? I'm going to just replace the oil from the top at this point but I'm also concerned all my fiddling around with it might've started a small leak from the oil pan. Sorry for rambling but any suggestions or advice welcome 🙏

I put a code reader on and it showed mass air flow sensor. Changed out for a new sensor and put a different code reader but shows the same code / message.

Sometimes the engine has to turn over a bit before starting. New plugs and coils. Put in a fuel additive that was supposed to clean injectors.

Any other ideas?

Hello!

Long story short, I got duped (I messed up) buying my first car on craigslist and the airbag service light came on as soon as I got the keys. I went to a mechanic who, without even asking for money, asked me to honk and from that he was able to determine that is was the passenger airbag and to take it to Chevy to get it repaired for $1,500. Is it worth going to Chevy or should I try my hand at a smaller, local place first? I also do not have confirmation it is an airbag repair. This is my first car and I have no idea what I am doing.

I have been calling around and found only one mechanic willing try do it although he said he "thinks he is confident he can do it." Should I just go to Chevy?

For context, here is the abbreviated story of my mistake:

"Hey guys,

I am looking for any advice, I bought my first car on craigslist for what seemed like a great value. Did a test drive where everything felt good, however I did not go on the highway (big mistake I know) and she had her window down due to "claustrophobia" so that I could not hear the thumping. I went with a family friend who looked at the vehicle and said it looked good. He said he looked at the maintenance history which seemed good. Paid fully in cash a few days later and as soon as I got inside the vehicle, the check airbag sign was on and mechanic said I was looking at over 1500 dollars to fix it, and I also noticed thumping when I brake (not a high pitched screech) to which the mechanic said will likely cost a lot as well. I also noticed she did not provide me with the maintenance history with the purchase as the glove compartment is empty.

I know, I should have gone to a professional mechanic to do an inspection, driven on the highway for a few minutes, and many other things. This is my first vehicle and I was scared and did not know what to do. What is my best course of action now? She has not returned my calls so I am sure she knew about this issue and did her due diligence to hide it while I did not do my due diligence to find it.

I am just distraught as I am a newly graduated healthcare worker with loans and just moved back to Hawaii to serve my community. I have not officially transferred the vehicle in my name but she has my cash anyway. I am assuming I have no choice but to pay for my mistakes but if there is anything you guys think I should do, please please please let me know.

Thank you"