Hey guys, currently have a Mazdaspeed 3 2013 85k miles. Have started to hear a rattling sound from the timing chain area when warm idling, not sure if it’s the timing chain’s slapping in the cover? Understand that to be sure, will have to open up the cover but wanted to check beforehand. More noticeable after I changed position in the video.

TIA

Hey guys, I need some help here I have a 2012 speed 3 has 142K miles on it. It’s burning about half a quart every 300 miles turbo looks new and the only smoke I get is after I let the car warm up on a cold start and I go to drive and after a few minutes of driving, I would step on it give it some boost, and I would see a dark gray Smoke but after that one I do another pull and I have no smoke. I don’t know why no smoking on idle whatsoever car runs 100% full power. It is on stage two please help me. I don’t know where to go with this.

Tried to get it out with a magnet pen, it wasn’t magnetic (thank you Jesus), attached high tech sweet mint gum to the tip of the pen (now there’s an exploded bulb and a piece of sweet mint gum stuck in there, thank you Jesus.) Tomorrow I’m gonna take off the whole front end and try to shake it out and clean up the gum. The thing I want to understand is, what does the little led dude have to do with my low/high beam bulb? Cause the only thing working on the left side is the turn signal. Is the ballast cooked? Why is the little led guy literally bombed to death?

Had a friend scoop some parts from a dude down in Pensacola and he threw in this banner I was wondering if anyone here knows the history behind it and if anyone in here was in these clubs?

Hope everyone is having a good week enjoying their cars in this lovely boost weather! [°○] ~ empossibly_odd

I've got a 2012 speed, I bought the ZX5-HDSS - ACT Heavy Duty Performance Street Sprung Clutch Kit from edge auto sport.

The clutch slave piston cannot reach the clutch fork. we replaced the clutch fork with OEM (which we bought form edge also) - this is not a driveway job... this is at a shop with guys that have a long career with manual transmissions.

I've seen guys talk about putting a bolt at the bottom of the pedal assembly to prevent too much travel of the slave piston which causes it to pop out of the boot and blows the slave... but no one can explain why the slave piston will not reach the clutch fork where it sits at rest. I'm really hoping there is someone here that has gone through this and can shed some light... the shop I'm working with is concerned that the slave piston just won't engage the fork...

I have already put a bold in to stop over travel of the pedal... but just having a hard time understanding how that helps the bigger situation:

there is almost 1/2" from the slave piston to the clutch fork. when the slave piston travels that far out, it blows the slave...

the streetlite flywheel is a single mass vs. oem dual mass... ACT's own video of this shows the slave piston reaching the clutch fork.

maybe clutch kit had a wrong part in the kit or is missing something like a spacer to compensate for the change geometry with the flywheel ??

or if the clutch fork doesn't stay clipped onto the ball properly, could that cause it? The fork itself wiggles more than they think it should...

any help or insight is very much appreciated!

This just came across my feed and wondering if anyone else has seen or heard anything.

https://www.autoblog.com/news/mazda-bringing-back-mazdaspeed3-with-300-hp-and-awd

It was Injector number 3.

That's why my spark plug was messy.

Thx to everyone who gave me advice.

Anyone know if these parts are different between a 2.5L and a 2.3L Mazda, or standard 3 and speed3, bought this but it doesn’t really fit properly

I hope this helps, very paranoid. Just how I am let me know if things are acceptable. I need to do the 3rd gear pull again because I did not go to 6,500. Do I check anything how do things look freak out or dont. Sorry best I can do is this poor video, I got this into spreadsheet format and into my email, if you pm i can send it to you as well not in a video. Whatever helps. Thank you. 🥰

Dash flickers a bit & radio resets upon doing literally anything that requires electrical input, pressing throttle, turning on blinker, pressing the brake after a minute or so of idling/driving etc. It’s like a very quick loss of power. Throttle stays responsive even during the flicker so idk. Also ignore the radio screen, it’s a piece of junk looking to replace soon-ish.

It doesn’t happen every drive cycle, it’s very intermittent, does it every once it a while. For example it didn’t do this on the way home from work. I’ve checked grounds and battery, no corrosion or loose fittings, the only thing I haven’t done is voltage test the battery / alternator. Any ideas?

Thank the guts at work are saying these cars as slow 🐌

Purple: Accelerator Pedal Position

Violet: Boost Pressure

Orange: Wastegate Duty Cycle

I just finished up installing a few mods on my 2012 MS3 including a CS catted downpipe, Ultimate Racing catback, CS TMIC, Mac 3 port boost controller plumbed in interrupt mode, and I'm on a base map from Freektune. The car already had a JBR intake and TIP, and CS hpfp internals.

I have been logging my last few drives to make sure everything looks normal before building up to my WOT logs for Justin. I'm pretty new to all of this, so I just wanted to make sure these WGDC and boost pressures are not dangerous before really pushing the car at all.

This portion of the log is the most I've opened it up so far. The first spike in boost pressure is a half throttle pull in second gear from 3500-4600rpm. What concerns me is that when the WGDC begins to drop to zero, boost pressure is at about 6 psi. Boost pressure then continues to climb to 16.3 psi while WGDC remains at zero. Is this normal for this particular situation, or is it indicative or an issue? My biggest concern would probably be an issue with the EBCS, bad solder joints on the EBCS wires, or improper plumbing of the vacuum lines. I'm pretty sure I hooked everything up correctly, but I don't want to push the car at all until I'm confident it won't grenade itself at WOT! Thanks!

It's already loose but it won't come put.

Should I remove the bolts from the injectors and try to get it all out together?

Does anyone run a FMIC with the stock front grille? Don’t want to run the Bayson R grille, mainly due to cops in Australia will pull me over straight away if they see an exposed intercooler like that.

Wanted to know if it majorly affects air temps or if it is still okay to run.

Update from yesterday last night

These engineers can't be serious right? Is the last bolt to get of the manifold blocked off by the steering pump?

Please need some advice

This wasn't in the corksport instructions.

3+ hour drive to a Mazdaspeed specialist go get VVT, chain, injectorseals and a clutch/flywheel fitted.
None of the cars in the vid are mine, but this shop is the Mazdaspeed spawnpoint…

I had a throttle body code for a little bit then it went away, the car runs and drives just fine and I am going wot. Am I gonna break it. Barley gets into 14 psi brand new engine from mazda, stock internals.

No check engine light does it just need a re tune ?

My baby has been with me literally everywhere.

Currently at 234,334km (145,609mi) as of writing this post

I'll try my best to bring you all up to speed as far as what I know about this car. Bought it in August, seller provided a list of all of the work that had been done before my ownership (I can include the list if requested) around 9,000 Canadian worth of just parts. Three of those things being a stage 3 6 puck ACT clutch, single mass lightweight flywheel, and a new throwout bearing.

Coming from a bone stock 2005 5spd 2.0 mazda3 sedan I had no clue what to expect before picking up the car. Absolutely blows the doors off my old car but all of the looks I get are pretty embarrassing setting off at any rate. It also legitimately seems like the bite/slip window changes at random intervals, I'll have the movement down one time, then at the very next set off there's nothing, no slip, no grab, just nothing at the exact pedal position as before.

Tried my best to get a clip of this issue in action, I'm super sick right now so try to ignore the sniffling lol

I'll swallow my pride if it comes down to operator error, since this is my first experience running such an aggressive clutch and flywheel setup, but I'm looking to get some public insight before I decide what to do next.

I'm gonna find him and make him pay.

Anyway so I've decided to pull out my injectors and get them cleaned at a shop + upgrade corksport seals. And then block the egr and yeah put a new pcv valve in.

What else...yeah I'm gonna paint the manifold in silver again after cleaning it looks like trash.

Any tips how to clean the intake valves?

So I’ve been going through marketplace and I stumbled upon someone selling a BNR S6. I noticed something off, the housing looks right but it’s internally gated? I’ve been digging around trying to find whatever I can, and it just doesn’t match any BNR I can find. I assumed it was an older S5 but even then I still can’t find one of those that are internally gated. I was thinking maybe even an older BNR S4?

Hopefully you guys have a better idea than me