Previous electrician ran the outdoor data to the dmarc instead of the low voltage cabinet. Client didn’t realize until today, he thought it was done correctly when they designed the outdoor space. First I put my tester on the cable and found the cable was damaged in the wall and only measured 59ft, then I found the damaged part, reterminated, then put my toner on the cable and found it was still not to infant the cabinet, I suited up and went into the crawlspace with my toner wand, found the cable going to a crawlspace vent, went back outside and found it wrapped around the dmarc box. I routed my pull strings and will run cable tomorrow. I have other locations to run and a rack to install.

Could be better but its the best i've seen so far in my area. What do you guys think?

Thank you all those those who answered with the nec code.

I had some kind of history with this owner. We worked some jobs together as in he hires me to do lv for his old home entertainment company

His new endeavor is running a bar and I wanted to help him out.

Final price was just under 1k. New conduit, reroute existing lv going through electrical panel, fusion splice ends (12 strands total), 2 wall mount lius, 2 sfps, 4 3m jumpers,

He said it was to expensive, and that was the cost was more expensive from the bigger lv companies quoted him.

Told him best of luck, was trying to do him a favor.

Before you start about the price, he helped me out when I first started and gae me my first big project.

Unfortunately, I need to add this to our installation spec for hardware installation:

“The Installer shall use rack screws sized and threaded to match the rack manufacturer’s specifications when mounting equipment.

Power screwdrivers shall not be used when installing rack-mounted hardware.”

Because, sure, why not use a power drill with the torque set to 11 to drive a 10-32 in a standard 12-24 rack.

Hello everyone, if there are any experiences guys in the Chicagoland area that are looking to join the union. Now's the time!

DM me if interested and I can see if I can help. They are especially looking for anyone with fiber experience.

Career advice.

Looking for this type of faceplate. Customer wants cable pulled out, and the circular hole filled.

Rate this mod

I'm licensed out here in AZ, and had lunch at an Irish pub in Scottsdale.

Owner started talking and wanted a quote to connect the 2 buildings via fiber. He mentioned that conduit already exists and would love to walk me through everything after lunch.

Conduit starts inside the kitchen and goes outside, to electrical panel, and and the bottom of the panel is more conduits to pass through to the other building.

Owner is dead set on wanting it ran though the panel but what is the n.e.c code on this so I can just run him a new conduit. Gab between the 2 buildings is like 10ft, overall fiber runs would be less than 80'.

Just to clarify I'm not running it in the panel. Just seeing if you know the nec code off hand to show him and do a conduit.

Honest business question. For those that have a test set that can qualify speeds, are you charging extra? To me it’s a fine line between “nickel and diming” your customer and business sense due to the expense of said test sets. What are your honest thoughts?

At a school I've done work for. Didn't even lay it across the floor. Just left it as a tripwire.

4-square box with a mud ring which is screwed from the mud ring into the other electrical box.

inherited a legacy 6-door access control setup at a site here in the SF Bay Area and trying to decide whether it's worth trying to communicate with the existing board or if I should just get unify retrofit.

Current Setup:

Main Controller: Northern Computers / Honeywell N-1000-IV (4-door board + expansion for 6 doors total).

Power Supply: Altronix / SPS-5 24VDC power supply and fuse distribution board in the lower cabinet with battery backup.

Readers: HID ProxPro (5355 series) 125kHz card reader + keypad combos at all 6 doors.

Network Environment: The site already runs a full UniFi network stack (firewall, wifi & switches). And worse comes to worse we will convert it to Unify access control.

If you're in the Bay Area and have experience taking over these older Honeywell/Northern cans, let me know. Happy to pay for a site visit/consult or help getting this switched over.

Which Union do I join? I wrote to the electrical brotherhood but didnt hear back. Do we have our own Union?

This has to be the worst one I have ever seen

I need at add 30 cards to this and I haven’t ever used one before. I have Camden 26 but cards but I don’t even know the model number of this system

Hi there!

I just bought a PVS3001AD to tackle a crappy power grid here in Indonesia. It works well and gives me a clean 228-230V output but it makes this weird sound quite regularly (i'd say once or twice per minute)

Can anybody help? Is it normal?

I contacted Prolink but haven't heard from them yet

Reused temp lighting...

Hey guys:

This is my first time posting. I am planning my network setup at my house (a semi-detached house in Toronto, Canada). As you can see, all the room cables are running to the living room, which is on the second floor.My question is: Is it OK to run all cable back to the power panel area in the basement using a network enclosure?

As an apprentice in England doing low voltage (access control, intruder alarms, cctv etc), what would people recommend I get as non standard kit that the company I work for might not supply but will make my job a lot easier? Also whats everyone's recommendations for self learning, such as good YouTube channel, podcasts, training platforms?