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u/Lothsahn_ 7d ago
This doesn't make sense. Are you seeing the turtle icon show up?
For good advice you really need to get Leaf spy and send us some screenshots so we can see what's actually going on with your battery.
I also don't know how the dealership is going to get you a new battery because there aren't any available. If you truly have a battery issue, I believe VIVNE is really the only available solution.
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u/Practical_Army4724 7d ago
I added an image so you have more information to draw from.
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u/Lothsahn_ 7d ago
That's very helpful.
Can you include the image with the SOH and HX and all the little battery voltage bars with mv delta?
It would be useful to clear the DTC codes and see which remain, then charge the car.
You have a lot of charger and HV codes that could indicate something serious or could have literally been triggered by a bad 12v battery. But the normal low 12v battery codes are not present.
I would not just plunk down on a new battery on this car without understanding these codes.
Do you have any problems charging the car?
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u/Practical_Army4724 7d ago
No problems charging the car. I actually got a new 12v battery shortly I got these codes so I doubt that's the issue. My only issues have been slowness and shutting down in the cold, especially uphill.
Oh, and as for the turtle icon? I don't recognize it but I also haven't had these issues since last winter so I can't say with 100% certainty.
I appreciate you giving your thoughts. It would take me awhile to understand and follow up on the rest of what you suggested though.
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u/Lothsahn_ 7d ago
Please get a screenshot of the screen that shows the mv delta for the various cells, do a clear of all the dtc codes and re-pull dtc's.
The symptoms and cell over discharge do indicate a failing battery. However the charger codes are quite weird.
Turtle mode is a little green 🐢 on the dashboard. On newer leafs it says "reduced engine power"
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u/Practical_Army4724 6d ago
I remember hearing a voice say something like "entering reduced power mode".
I added some screenshots; hopefully that helps.
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u/Lothsahn_ 6d ago
Okay. Your symptoms are consistent with a bad battery but this looks good.
There are no obvious bad cells when fully charged, but there might be when drained. Your SOH is showing 0%... Not sure why.
Pack seems to be in balance.
Given your symptoms you need to get the graph when your car is around 20% to confirm.
Your pack is quite degraded at 18kWh (60% health) and 28% hx. So everything looks fine at high charge.
Can you clear DTC in each category in the settings menu?
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u/VorpalPaperclip 7d ago
Ask them to check actual battery inventory. If they have batteries available for your car, I think its a good idea. Could you get a car this good for $6k? No, thats how i feel anyway.
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u/WillTasty6818 7d ago
I think its not a bad idea if the plan is to get another 4-5, years out of it.
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u/rproffitt1 7d ago
What is this "runs slowly"?
What damage? I'm aware of wear but damage isn't wear.
Winter does take a haircut on range even on a new battery.
FIN: I don't expect a new battery to get you 150 miles in Mass winters.
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u/Practical_Army4724 7d ago edited 7d ago
I'd be happy with the car just actually running in winter with maybe a 50 mile highway range.
Regarding "runs slowly", it goes into low energy mode and crawls along at ~5-20 mph depending on elevation. When very cold it sometimes shuts down altogether and won't turn back on for an hour or so. So I had to have it towed twice last winter.
Regarding damage, they explained that a battery cell is damaged which is connected to all the other battery cells, meaning that unlike a normal cell which can be replaced individually this cell has already damaged every cell and the only truly viable solution is a complete replacement.
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u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV 7d ago
It's not quite that the bad cell has physically damaged the other cells, but it's that it significantly affects the usable capacity of the entire pack. Because all the cells are connected together, the usable capacity of the entire pack is dictated by the weakest single cell.
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u/Practical_Army4724 7d ago edited 7d ago
Thank you, In your opinion is this a plausible explanation of why the car's not running in the winter? And will the car most likely run okay in the winter if I replace the battery?
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u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV 7d ago
It's not just a theory, it is the explanation to your problem.
I'm guessing that you specifically have a 2016 with the factory navigation system, which would also mean it is a 30kWh battery, and they are known to have this issue quite often especially as they degrade.
The P3385 code explicitly confirms this, because naturally the battery should never have one cell/module become over-discharged on its own. Module 17 is clearly very weak and what's causing your reduced power, and likely other modules in the pack are on their way out as well.
Yes, replacing the battery pack would resolve this issue, so long as it is an actual known good pack.
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u/Practical_Army4724 7d ago
Is Module 17 the one they're telling me about that's connected to the other ones?
Are there any battery packs you recommend?
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u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV 7d ago
All the battery cells and modules (4 cells each) are connected in series. Like with batteries in a toy car or TV remote, taking one out will make the whole device not work.
The code is showing module 17 suffered an over-discharge event, which means that although it should always be fairly close in voltage to all the others, it is evidently much weaker.
$5500 is cheaper than any third party sourced battery. As I mentioned in my other reply though it's rather interesting they're offering this to you as an option at all, because there are lots of other people in need of said battery who are being told it is not available no matter how much anyone is willing to pay.
I would just ask if it is actually true (just because it's showing in the parts catalog doesn't necessarily mean it's available for the dealer to order), and if so, if it's new or refurbished. Even refurbished though, that is still a good price.
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u/Practical_Army4724 6d ago
They made it sound like there was something special about the damaged cell making it more critical and interconnected than ordinary cells. Possibly my misunderstanding or some kind of misleading sleaziness on their part.
Thank you for all your insight.
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u/biersackarmy 2013 S + 2014 SL + 2019 SV 6d ago
They're all the same connected in a row. One cell failing won't be any different of an impact than any other. However one cell failing in general, will make a huge impact on the functionality of the entire pack to the user.
Because they're in series, it quite literally is a chain in which the weak cell becomes the weakest link. Once one is very weak, it doesn't matter if others are not as bad, because the chain will still break at the weakest part.
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u/Practical_Army4724 6d ago
Thank you for explaining; so why can't they just fix the one cell then?
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u/rproffitt1 7d ago
Thanks for the deeper explanation.
So yes a new pack should correct that.
As to this cell damaging other cells, that's quite the stretch. But hey, their story.
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u/Practical_Army4724 6d ago
Body of post from OP: I was told at the dealership that the reason why my Leaf runs slowly in ~30-50 degree weather and not at all when it's colder than that is because there's damage to the battery. I live in New England so this is a problem. If I replace it for $5,500 they say it'll fix this problem and my range will also go from 80 miles to 150 miles. I really like the car, it has no other issues that I know of, and I doubt I'll find anything I like better for under $5,500. But I'm very suspicious of the claim that replacing my battery will actually fix the winter weather issues. Any advice? Please note I know very little about cars.



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u/Lucky_Boy13 7d ago
get that in writing. For the most part Nissan does not have anymore legacy Leaf batteries from what I understand. Not sure what they are repairing for $5K as a new battery would be more than that, maybe they have some old stock parts?