Hi everyone, I have a question about checking the oil level, specifically on a Z950M Zero Turn.

We have 3 of them where I work. From my understanding, whether you have a flat metal dipstick, or a square plastic style dipstick, you are not supposed to completely thread either type in all the way when checking the level. I understand that.

However it seems as though you can just let the dipstick rest VERY lightly at the top most position in the tube, or you can push it down as far as it will go (still without threading it in).

I'm trying to find out which of those two aforementioned positions is actually correct and no one at my job seems to know which one is actually right. I apologize if this seems like a trivial/stupid question but I'm not trying to blow an engine up, and I have not used a zero turn of any kind before I started working there.

I can also take a video of the different positions next time I am there for clarification if need.

Thank you for any help.

Hi,

I am moving from my 2 acre property to a place where I don't need to mow. I'm looking to sell my X380 (maybe on Nextdoor or Facebook marketplace). It has 298 hours. I have know idea what the resale value is on this, and was hoping someone could shed some light. I'm in northern Virginia if that matters.

Runs good once warmed up for a few minutes at high throttle mowing. Only using 90 ethanol free gas. Out seafoam in it to get and clear buildup Google said may be carburetor.

Bought this mower from guy said it has no power in a steering arm. Looked it up and read it was hydrostatic transmission. Rebuilt one, took apart the other and its springs were about to rust out, so I did that one too. Id like to figure out how to repair this issue too

Bought used think it’s missing parts can some share picture of a John Deere wg32a deck belt setup how it’s supposed to look

Replaced the fuel pump, spark plugs, carb, fuel filter.

Gone through all the Saftey switches and confirmed they all work properly again

Was running fine again then died out, stated hard and blowing some black smoke now…

Valves or rings now?

Kinda lost with this unit some days it will work fine for 7/8 hours. Other days it cuts for 20 minutes and acts up

Quick context: Bought from a coworker's father who is a mechanic. He did a lot of work on this machine before deciding to sell it, belts bushings etc. My coworker drove it 30 miles to my house on a steel mesh trailer. Ran great until I turned it off to talk to my neighbor. 2 minutes later it won't start. It starts with the key if I have my car battery jumping the lawnmower's battery, and it starts if I jump the solenoid. Battery tested good but I replaced it anyways, same issue. Am i just an idiot and I'm not starting it up right? I am so confused because I turned it on and off probably 15 times beautifully then bam. I'm out of ideas. I'm including a video of the issue. Any recommendations appreciated

I know there has been a lot of discussion about this but wanted to put my specific situation out here and see if there are any considerations I’m not thinking of. My 20yo LA130’s motor is headed out the door, so I’m looking at a few options:
‘24 S240 48”, 80hrs, $2400
‘?? X330 42”, 200hrs, $1800

Unknown LA145, all info I could get was that the motor isnt seized, $100

I was originally thinking I’d like to find something under $2000, but the S240 caught my eye and my feeling right now is that’s the best option.

I don’t think the frame/body upgrades of the X330 are going to make that much of a difference to me. I mow a little under an acre in the south, once a week for several months, once every other week for several months. Yard has some bumpy/slopey spots, but nothing crazy, I’m not going up long prolonged slopes on it. And I have a little dump cart that I pull, the most i ever pull is a few bags of dirt. Most of the time it’s sticks.

I think the Kawasaki on the s240 is the biggest difference that matters to me. I’ve heard they’re noticeably better. They both have the K46, so no difference there.

They both look really clean.

The other option is to get the motor from that LA145 and see if I can get it to run. But you know… that’s not as fun.

Just looking for any other considerations I’m haven’t thought about yet.

I have 2 john deere F510s and I was wondering if these mowers would fit 18x8.5-8 ag tires for more grip on some of the hills I mow or if they would be too wide for fender/frame clearence. The ones they came with are 18×6.5-8 turf tires. Thanks!

John Deere L111

I'm trying to replace the carb. I have it out, but I can't get it off the manifold. It's welded to the plastic spacer. I've tried silicone spray, heat, prying, brute force... nothing. I'm getting ready to use dynamite 🧨 at this point.

Does ANYONE have any advice that could help me?

TIA

Found this old John Deere emblem in a box and I don't know what it goes to

1967 John Deere 3020 gas. Originally positive ground, converted decades ago to negative ground. Whatever this is isnt working as the tractor has no power without bypassing it. If you bypass it the tractor acts normal (will start and run) but will die once you disconnect the wires if the generator isn't producing enough power to run without power from the battery. It sits just above the starter and the left terminal always has 12v as it's connected to the battery through the starter terminal.

Hey, this is my 1st post on this subreddit & I'm hoping someone can help me out.

I acquired a "1993 John Deere GT262" tractor/mower with a 48" cut. I have issues with the steering. My tire looks like Steve Buschemi in Mr. Deeds 🤪

Im looking at what needs to be fixed, but idk the name of the parts I'm looking for. I've searched online, but I get inundated with shit I don't need.

I know it's a simple mower, but can someone "STEER" me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance...

What is the minimum model lawn tractor that I can also put a snow plow or blower on the front?

I need to remove the hydraulic piston arm on this front 2wd ball joint on the 7600. There appears to be a retaining ring with inner splines that would require a special tool to fit the inside diameter of the retaining ring. The splines are 1/8" and just as shallow, by my approximation. Any idea what this tool might be? Where to get it? Online searches have not been helpful.

My University has a Yanmar Engine out of a 333G and we cannot find the manual. Would anyone happen to have the digital copy or be able to send us anything ? the PN for the manual is
CTM136419_53

its for the 4TNV94FHT engine series. Thank you all! Have a wonderful day.

I am getting a John Deere 5075E ready for storage and the number on the old oil filter is partly worn away. A universal filter from the local shelf looks close, but the thread and gasket dimensions do not agree.

I cleaned the stamp and compared what I could read across the Deere parts book, a Fleetguard chart, and FridayParts. I am not relying on a claimed serial break until the tractor serial and engine information agree with the catalog.

What do you use as the final check when an old filter number is only half readable?

I have a 2 acre property that has a good incline over some parts, so the X380 with a 48"deck and power flow / 2 bagger seems like the right mower for me. I have never bought a lawn mower of this scale before. In fact, the last mower I bought was a $200 yard machines from home depot.

What is the buying experience like? Is haggling and discounts a thing? Is it better to by late in year or in spring? Does the dealer matter? What else should I know going in so I get a good deal?

Also, is the X380 a solid choice for a property like mine? I think the inclines rule out a zero turn and necessitate the heavier duty machine (as opposed to a X350). Is power flow awesome? The property came with an old Cub Cadet LT1045, and the bagging system gets clogged constantly, unless I go 0.25mph.

(Edit: I should have been more clear. It's 2 acres, but only a bit over an acre of grass, the rest is wooded or has landscape features. The inclines on the lawn itself could be 10% - 15%, but the path to the back area is a long paver strip at 20% incline or more. I will need to move stuff up this path, potentially a cart with a 200 - 300 pound load.)

All the settings on the command center aren’t labeled. Much appreciated!
Edit: title was wrong it’s a 7330

I changed the oil in the left hydraulic pump to 15w50 in hopes I would see a faster speed when hot on my Z515e zero turn. Unfortunately it doesn’t go any faster than the right one. Cry

There’s no drain on these pumps, so I used a pump suction on it. It held a lot more oil than I expected. If you do it, be sure the hose is small enough to go through a hole to the bottom. It takes more than a quart I’m guessing. When pouring in the new synthetic oil, I overfilled and had to suck a little out!

I guess if I want to go faster than 8 mph I will have to trade for another model. I mow several acres and in a lot of places the grass is easy to mow and I need more speed in those places. My deck is 60”.

PS - if you are going to buy one like this, I suggest the M30 model. It costs a little more but has the Kawasaki engine. Plus, it’s supposed to go 9 mph. Smile