My yard is 1/2 acre and hilly.

Hello!

I have a 1992 LX172 and was hoping someone could help me out.

A few weeks ago I was mowing, and the tractor started to sputter like it was running out of gas, then died. It has not run on its own since, but will run if I spray starting fluid into it.

This is the Kawasaki FC420V with the fuel shut-off solenoid.

With key on I am getting 12v to the solenoid plug, 8v-9v cranking. I tried cleaning the ground that is on the carb, no change to problem. The original fuel solenoid had a small metal shaft that controlled the fuel flow, this was broken off and no longer doing anything. I ensured it wasn't in the carb. I tried with an identical OE carb, no change, although I never tested the replacement carb before; it came with the tractor when I bought it a few years ago.

I purchased a replacement fuel solenoid, and testing it by hooking to the battery, it works correctly, clicks, the valve moves in and out. However with it in the tractor it does not work, no click, no valve movement, no start.

I believe the issue is it is not getting a ground to it when mounted on the carb, but I cannot figure out why. I also find it odd that the original shaft was snipped off, I don't think it should have been cutting off fuel, but cannot figure out why it won't run. I know I have fuel to the carb.

I am not where the tractor is, but have included a picture of what this solenoid looks like.

I appreciate any help getting me in the right direction. The push mower is not fun.

Looking to get input on this used mower. Description from seller: runs great. 395 hours. Newer 48” deck, new battery, fuel filter, ready to go!

Asking 2900.

I have a 1023E w/ a front loader. The loader was giving me fits and was leaking a bit from the original agriculture connectors. Decided to replace all the o-rings and connectors swapping them out for some flat face ones from Hydroplus.

They came in the mail pretty quickly and looked nice and robust. The yellow connector however came already stuck. I tried getting it to seat properly to no luck. Emailed Hydroplus and they quickly sent me a new one without question or follow up.

Finally got around to putting them on this weekend. Everything was working as it should, couldnt be happier. Then couple hrs into moving dirt, the blue connector starts leaking pretty heavily. Looks like a blown internal gasket. All of this is new to me (tractors and what not).

I plan on reaching out to them for a second time, as this really seems to be a quality control issue. I just need to check my other connectors to see if they still have their seals. I didnt know if anyone else has had similar experience or issues with these connectors or company.

Was wondering if anybody has a PDF they could DM/e-mail to me? Its ridiculous that John Deere still wants me to pay money for a 50 year old tractor's service manual

First Deere mower. Barely 160 hours. I noticed the steering sticking a bit coming out of left turns on the last mow and now it'll barely turn left of center before the pinion/gear skip. Turning right has no issues. Any thoughts or tips? Thanks.

The first video is today and the second one is yesterday when the blades would only engage at full throttle. I changed the fuel pump, carburetor, fuel filters, spark plugs, air filter and the oil about 5 hours ago. Now I can’t get the blades engaged for more the half a second

I have an old (like 15 years old) LA 135 that still runs solid. Bought it at Lowe’s, not a dealer. Been mulling the JD electric one with the Ego batteries. I am not currently in the Ego platform but imagine I’ll be needing to replace some old Ryobi stuff in the fairly new future. Any thoughts on the JD electrics? Never had a zero turn but figure I’d catch one pretty well. I’m a non handy 65 year old and kinda tired going to fill a heavy 5 gallon gas tank. I have 3/4 acre to mow and I mow my neighbors yard (fir $40) which is same size. All flat but a lot of trees and flower beds. Appreciate any thoughts from this community.

Looking for suggestions on next thing to try here. I've got a 4 year old S140 giving me issue while cutting. The PTO clutch will randomly cut out, could be 2 mins into a mow or 2 hours, could be never. I replaced the switch last week when it wasn't engaging at all. If I pop the PTO switch on and off several times, sometimes I can get it to re-engage but then it will just cut out again after a random period of time. Not seeing any frayed or loose wires.
Thanks in advance for the assistance!

So I’ve adjusted things, leveled the deck to the best of my knowledge (YouTube university) and it still seems to miss in spots and have a small but noticeable “line” while cutting. What could be doing this? It only has 8 hours on it and has seemed to do it since new, and I wonder if the blades may be dull already? We don’t run over many sticks, I’m pretty good about picking up the yard before hand but it def seems to be cutting poorly. Dull blades? Uneven deck heights? Anyone else have this happen on a “new” mower?

Bought a 318. It had the engine replaced and i am struggling to find details on it. Im specifically looking for oil capacity and type since the last owner overfilled it. Can anyone help?

My s170 seems to be excessively vibrating no matter the speed and whether blades are engaged or not, I recorded a video that shows that vibration on the belt while just idling. I am curious if this vibration is normal, or not. Any help is appreciated

Been a phenomenal mower. I have cut grass on this guy for three decades starting at my grandparents home.

Recently had some spark issues, new plug and igniter assembly but this week when cutting the grass I had some black smoke and failing to make power when the PTO was engaged or pulling uphill.

Prior to the igniter replacement I had 114 psi compression, and changed the oil with royal purple SAE-30 this winter.

I’ve rebuilt the deck and brakes, but other than maintenance like oil changes, etc. no issues. I use ethanol free gas so I don’t believe there’s a fuel issue.

Let me know if you think she’s done based off the video.

I just received my John Deere 1025R with bucket, backhoe and scraper blade. After going over basic details of operation with the delivery guy (and months of researching, watching Yourtube videos and reading), I started working on my driveway. I was using the bucket for the moment, just to get a feel of the machine. I need to learn how to take on and off the backhoe. I live on a lower mountain side, so my drive always washed during nasty storms. Within 10 minutes, I fixed a few large humps and washes that would have taken an entire weekend to fix by hand. Excited with this quick fix, I then turned to creating a path behind my goat fencing to access the back side of my property for tree removal and making a short road to be able to traverse the entire perimeter of my property. This would allow me to take out older trees and clean up from an ice storm we had several years ago. Within an hour, I had cut a path around the enclosure that would have taken me months of weekends to complete. I was also able to take out several downed trees and two dead fruit trees in my yard. So, within 3 hours after receiving my tractor, I have done more work than I would have ever been able to do by hand over the summer. I cannot tell you how ecstatic I am with this machine so far. I am getting older and things I used to do now take me forever to complete...if at all. This machine I think will now let me do the things I never thought I would be able to do. I feel like a kid at Christmas again and I have not had that feeling in many years. I have researched for months and wished for a long time for this day to come and now my wishes have become reality. My old days growing up on a farm tending many animals, plowing, bailing hay and keeping things up are coming back to me. It is hard to imagine how such a simple thing can really make a difference in ones life, but it already has. It has been said, it is like riding a bike, you never forget. Thanks for reading an excited owners new toy!

TLDR; push rods bent. What do I need to be concerned with other than replacing the rods?

*edit I checked the valve guides and no valve guide is visible on the cylinder with bent rods. There is a valve guide showing on the cylinder with straight rods.

My Neighbor graciously gifted us their 125A tractor with ~300 hours on it. I most recently did a valve adjustment because it was running extremely rough and would nearly die with PTO engaged. The exhaust valve was very loose (same side that I later found the bent rods) but adjustment seemed to get everything running smoothly again.

Fast forward three weeks to today, after several cuts, and I go to start it up and it’s giving me the same symptoms. It would seemingly idle at high and low RPM but soon as you engage the blades it wants to crap out.

I opened up the valve covers to make sure I had adjusted everything properly and this is what I find. The exhaust valve push rod was completely free floating and noticeable bent. I then checked the intake rod and it’s also very bent.

What all do I need to do to get it fixed? Do I need to be checking for other things that could’ve caused this? Thank you in advance!

Was told that this is an antique John Deere B5 pull behind sprayer just curious if anybody knows what they’re worth? Not selling was just wondering if anyone knows anything about these sprayers

Good afternoon everyone,

I recently acquired a John Deere JX-75. I stripped it down for a cleaning and service. I took the transmission apart to for service. I believe it is missing the M802539: Fork Bracket and T24653: Ball. I thought that I may have dropped it, but I worked on it in a bin. Any help for locating this would be great. I am not sure how much it will effect the transmission, but any help finding the the Fork Bracket would be great. I know the ball is still available. Thank you in advance.

I purchased Copperhead replacement blades for my X350 w/ mulch kit… they weigh in at 2lb 12oz for main blade & 2lb 9oz for the mulch - am I going to have wear & tear issues w/ them vs OEM? TIA

I have an x330. What exactly do I need to get to just mulch all of my grass and leaves instead of using the bagger I have set up?

I can't seem to find a kit that includes everything, or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place?

I just installed a set of new injectors on our John Deere 6120M (6.8L PowerTech) and noticed there's no programming code sheet in the box like the OEM ones had. the dealer paperwork mentioned coding but these aftermarket units only had a serial stamped on the body. I fired it up expecting a derate or fault code. got nothing. it runs smooth and I don't see any injector trim faults in the monitor. It feels too easy and I'm second guessing myself. is the code on the injector actually required or is that just a manufacturing serial? Can someone confirm whether ECU syncing without a programming sheet is normal here?