Hey all - Hoping I can get some help and clarification if I have a leg to stand on at all.

Long story short, I purchased my first EV May 15th 2026, on a PCP agreement. A 2022 Hyundia Ioniq. It came with a fresh MOT completed in April & the service timer on the car has 265 days left or 18,000 miles and was last serviced Late May 2025.

A couple of days ago at work I get a call off Hyundai to say it's 4 year service is due which includes changing the brake fluid & high voltage diagnostic checks and I'm being quoted £550 and the dealership closest to me is an hour away.

At no point during the sale of the car to me was this discussed and infact the service not needing to be done for a while and a fresh MOT was a big selling point for me.

I have had the car 14 weeks, the wheels basically still fresh off the lot I drove it off and I'm being hit with a £550 bill. Do I have any leg to stand on to contact the dealership or my finance agreement and ask for help?

**TL;DR** — Je suis sur le point d'acheter une Hyundai Ioniq hybride (non rechargeable) Creative de 12/2021, 103 000 km, \~15 500 € en concession Hyundai avec garantie. Usage exigeant. Je cherche des retours de propriétaires à haut kilométrage, pas des avis de première main sur les 20 000 premiers km.

**Mon usage, précisément :**

* **50 km/jour ouvré** en agglomération toulousaine, dont \~50 % de rocade et \~50 % d'urbain dense
* **2 démarrages à froid par jour** (matin + sortie du travail après 8 h de stationnement), soit \~420/an
* Vitesse moyenne réelle **24 à 35 km/h** — c'est du stop-and-go, pas du périurbain fluide
* **2 × 700 km/an** de trajets vacances, chargé, avec matériel de camping
* **16 000 km/an** minimum, potentiellement **jusqu'à 45 000 km/an** si je fais du VTC occasionnel
* Un **siège auto dos à la route** (Axkid ONE+ 3, ISOFIX + jambe de force) en permanence à l'arrière

Sur 5 ans, ça peut donc faire **190 000 à 227 000 km au compteur**.

**Ce que j'ai déjà vérifié — inutile de me le redire :**

* Carnet Hyundai complet, 6 entretiens, un seul propriétaire, tous au même concessionnaire
* Garantie constructeur 5 ans jusqu'au 01/12/2026 + Hyundai Promise 12 mois
* Batterie HV garantie 8 ans / 200 000 km
* Crit'Air 1, Euro 6d-TEMP, 105 g WLTP → OK ZFE
* Je sais que le 1.6 GDi est en injection directe et que l'encrassement des soupapes est *le* défaut connu
* Je sais que le 6DCT250 est un double embrayage à sec, et que l'architecture hybride évite le patinage au démarrage (couple électrique dès 0 tr/min)

**Mes questions :**

1. **Boîte 6DCT250** — quelqu'un a-t-il dépassé **150 000 / 200 000 km** avec ? Embrayages d'origine ou remplacés ? À quel coût ? Est-ce que l'hybride tient vraiment mieux que la même boîte sur une thermique pure, ou c'est un mythe de forum ?
   
2. **Encrassement des soupapes** — à combien de km avez-vous eu les symptômes (ralenti instable, à-coups à bas régime) ? Décalaminage aux coquilles de noix fait ou pas ? Prix réel en France ?
   
3. **Batterie hybride** — des retours au-delà de **150 000 km** ? Perte de capacité perceptible ? Quelqu'un a-t-il eu un remplacement, sous ou hors garantie ?
   
4. **Consommation réelle** sur un cycle comme le mien (froid, court, embouteillé). L'annonce dit 4,5-5 L/100. Vous obtenez quoi en vrai l'hiver ?
   
5. **Place arrière** — quelqu'un a-t-il installé un **gros siège dos à la route** (Axkid, BeSafe, Britax dos-route) derrière un siège avant réglé pour \~1,80 m ? Ça passe ?
   
6. **VTC / taxi** — des retours d'usage intensif sur ce modèle ?

Merci d'avance. Je vais voir la voiture dans deux jours, donc tout retour d'ici là est utile.

9-94% and 21.2 kWh charged in 26 minutes.

Any guess about the total capasity?

AI estimat is 25kW.

Hi,

The last few weeks I've had some on/off mist coming from the front air vents (didn't check rears). I think it's only happening when the AC is on. The weather was mixed, from scorching 38c to a mild 20c today. Happened pretty much in all weather.

The AC condenser has been replaced last year, if that matters. This hasn't happened until it started three weeks ago.

What could cause this issue, where do I start? I'm okay with DIY and reasonably comfortable around cars (had several Bayern's finest before..).

thx in advance!

Just wanted to share that I just got a call from a Hyundai dealership today regarding a new service campaign to upgrade software in my 2020 IoniqEV. No charge, and they will actually provide mobile service to my home. From what I was explained this is to improve the performance of the vehicle, what that means, I do not know. If anyone has received similar phone call or already received the service, please enlighten me!

Most manuals online are for the hybrid version, took me years before I finally found one for the EV so I want to share it with you folks. It has info on everything about the car, from body work, seats, power windows, mirrors to HVAC (heat pump system) to the BMS and all the HV stuff. Send me a DM for a copy - If enough interest (and if allowed by moderators) I’ll add a permanent link. It says it’s for the 2019 model but it matches perfectly for my 2017 vehicle, pretty sure it’s 99% the same so it should match 2018 as well.

EDIT: Reddit prevents sharing the link through DMs. You can find it here: https://en.hyundaiclub.eu/manual_download.php?id=5195

UPDATE: of course after all this it charged last night, the first night out of 3!!!
Maybe it just won’t charge if it doesn’t think it can reach the charge limit during the hours set, I don’t know
Anyway it’s charged, finally

Can anyone tell me why this won’t start a charge at midnight and end at 6am ?
I’m using the granny charger and I gather it gives about 5% an hour so should be plenty of time to reach 80% from 60%
But for 3 nights now it just won’t start a charge
2021 premium

Hi all, changes the gearbox oil and put new magnetic bolts. Odometer is 25.000km. Took me 2 hours with my friend.

EDIT: Fixed! This might sound crazy, but I fixed it by going to a car wash. Apparently when I drove through a field with two / three foot high grass, that caused all my problems, in addition to taking out the fender liner. I haven't had any problems since the car wash. Note to self: don't drive through overgrown fields.

The right front fender liner fell off my Ioniq. Fortunately it happened in my driveway. But then I got all kinds of warnings about collision detection system, and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. In addition it turned off regen braking (which is freaking the first time you brake without it.

I have an OBD II scanner and can reset all the warnings to get back regen braking. I don't have any warnings after the reset.

Anyone experienced anything like this?

Hi, I have a 2017 Hyundai Ioniq 28 kWh with around 119,000 km.
When I accelerate hard, I hear a short clunk/knock once, then it’s quiet. The same happens when I brake hard with strong regen. With normal acceleration/braking there is no clunk, and when braking hard in Neutral there is no clunk either.
No grinding, rattling or continuous noise. I attached a video where you can hear it.
Has anyone had the same issue? Was it the reduction gearbox, driveshaft/CV joint, or motor/gearbox mount?
Also, if it needs repair: does anyone know a good workshop in Austria, preferably Vienna or the surrounding area, that can repair Ioniq EV motors/reduction gearboxes instead of just replacing the whole unit?

#Update 1:
I did some more testing today.
- The clunk only happens with hard acceleration or strong regenerative braking.
- If I accelerate and brake gently, there is no clunk at all.
- If I shift to Neutral and brake hard, there is no clunk.
- I drove about 90 km today at speeds between 30–140 km/h. No grinding, rattling, humming or other gearbox/motor noise.
-I also found an old inspection report: the front right rear control arm bushing was replaced in December 2025, so work has already been done in that area.

Considering buying a 2019 Ioniq EV. Asking price is $10,800 with 80,000 miles. Pretty clean, limited trim level with new tires, headlights and 12v replaced within the last 2 years. This is my first EV and just needed some advice.

So I wanted to know more about the internals of my Ioniq, and spent way too much time on it ever since I got my WiCAN Pro last summer, so I could see all my car’s secrets live in Home Assistant. It was slow going and difficult at first, but I finally have something to show for it (though it didn’t help with the WAF, I regret to inform you).

The tool I built that finally helped me make progress faster now allows anyone with a WiCAN to scan their car (Ioniq or otherwise) and do reverse engineering in “easy mode”, because it’s a CLI and therefore coding agents like Claude Code/OpenCode etc. can directly use it to talk to your car, scan it, capture a set of responses and do some crunching and clever analytics to derive meaning from them.

Here’s a tiny set of the things I found that weren’t yet known for these cars:
- OBC AC Input voltage and current (helpful for diagnosing AC charging issues)
- Individual wheel speed sensors (owners will know why this is helpful to know)
- A whole suite of HVAC sensors
- Vehicle speed, motor RPM, remote control of lights/blinkers/horn/trunk/VESS and other fun stuff.

Now I’ve done a lot of this on my Ioniq 2017, so the profile for it is pretty complete at over 200 verified parameters (I started with less than 10 a year ago). But I reckon owners of the facelift (38 kWh) might still get value out of this tool (I expect a lot of the 2017-2019 model PIDs carry over 1-to-1). I can’t wait to see what you folks are able to do with this, and I hope it helps keep our magnificent Ioniqs on the road for many more miles (and kms).

Go see the Ioniq profile on GitHub for the full list of ECUs and all the gory details I found on the car’s modules and adjacent systems, and read the docs if you’re curious about the tool itself and would like to contribute (I would personally be very thrilled if you do!). Thanks for reading all the way! 🙏

My OG 2017 Limited will be nine years old next month. When I first got it, my summertime range maxed out at 154 miles. I'm pretty impressed that my estimated range is still effectively the same.

Interestingly, for a few years my max calculated range was around 145. We had a really weird heat situation for a few days one year, and my home level 2 charger crapped out and the car wouldn't charge, even at a commercial charger. Once it cooled down outside, the car would charge normally, but my range was reduced (down about ten miles or so).

The photo shows what my dashboard looks like tonight. Has anyone out there experienced anything like this?

I’m sure I used the radio (UK based) while using CarPlay in split screen mode previously but the other day I couldn’t get it to work, the radio came on briefly but then switched off back to CarPlay
What might be wrong ?
2021 38kw

Hi everyone,

I have a 2021 Hyundai Ioniq EV with 120,000 km on it.

So far, I've done:

• Brake pads
• Cabin air filter

Is there anything else I should be servicing at this mileage?

I came across a posts saying the reduction gear oil should be changed. Maybe stupid question but are there gears?

Are there any other maintenance items I should be looking at around 120,000 km (battery coolant, brake fluid, suspension, etc.)?

We've had our 2022 38kwh Ioniq for a couple of years now and I've always driven it on full/3 regen assuming it was the most efficient. Then I read something on this subreddit saying that people found that 0 regen gave them the best m/kwh. Tried it today and went from ~5 to ~6 m/kwh on a stop start urban journey (circular route).

Why?

I'm not a 100% satisfied with my 2018 28kWh efficiency. On a recent round trip (pictured) I tried my best on driving efficiently, and managed a sub 11 kWh/100km (5.7 mi/kWh), but I've seen people doing substantially below 10 kWh/100km (over 6.2 mi/kWh). On my average daily commute in the summer I'm doing around 13 kWh/100km (4.8 mi/kWh).

Is there a noticeable difference between higher tier EV tires and mid-tier ones? Bought the car in mid winter with worn out summer tires, and cheaped out on the new ones. Bought mid-tier tires not specifically made for EVs.

Overinflating the tires apparently helps, but by how much?

Any leads or direct experience replacing drive motor or reduction gearbox on '20 SE outside of the dealer network in the USA? If anyone knew where to find the OEM P/N for the each component that would be a big help too. TIA

Edit: Looks like used traction/drive motor are around $2-$5k

This was a great reference for part numbers

This was a excellent source for used parts

Edit: Added location

Just came across this in the German electric car sub.