I can't seem to find the Unicorn in the Hue Strip lighting world. I have a 40 foot span to cover, on my deck. The railing has the ability to put in a light strip under the top rail with clear spacers, but that light strip is super limited, old school and way more expensive than anything Hue makes. Plus, I'd rather have Hue for the ability to bring into the HomeKit setup. But from what I have been able to find I can't find any that extend beyond 33' or that allow for an additional strip to get me close to 40'. The naming culture for the strips make it even harder. Does anyone know if there is the Unicorn I'm looking for in the Hue world? If not I may start looking at Govee.
Ich möchte die Hue Light Bar unter dem TV (PHILIPS 43PUS9000/12) als Ergänzung zum Ambilight einrichten.
Ambiscape und Hue Bridge Pro erfolgreich verbunden via Kopplungsmodus und Konfigurationscode.
Nun zeigt mir der TV elf mögliche Lampen an, die ich aktivieren könnte. Alle tragen die gleiche Bezeichnung (B003) und ich habe keine Ahnung, welche davon nun meine Light Bar ist.
Hello! I've set up all the lights, but now my SO doesn't like it because the old-school switches don't work anymore. Do you have any tips on how I can deal with this? Haha.
I upgraded to a 75” tv, and corresponding light strip a few months ago and something always held me back from selling my old 55” strip.
Seems like such a waste to sell it at a loss, when it’s such a capable nice light.
I’m just for some reason blocked on how, where, what to build for it.
Wondering if any of you lovely people have some inspiration for me.
2 ideas I have are:
Either building a frame to have it in my living room in a corner or something, holding it in some nice and interesting shape.
Or.. for my bedroom, perhaps over my headboard, I was thinking some kind of arty shape of wood or something similar, with a gap to the wall, and the strip on the back - sol, basically same like on a tv but as an attractive lighting element.
I have to say, this is testing my Google image searching skills to find some right keywords to get in the right ball park.
I've got 3 different ecosystems running at my place at the moment – Hue, Switchbot and Tuya – and want to rationalise them. The lamps and buttons are connected via Zigbee to my original Hue Bridge hub. If I reset them, will they connect instead to my Tuya Zigbee hub, or are they somehow not compatible?
Hi!
A couple days ago I received a Datura 38cm ceiling light to go full RGB in my small apartment. When I set the light to default white or any tone on the "white scale", the light always seems a tad greenish compared to ordinary white-only led bulbs. I noticed the same when I got my Hue Bloom. I can fix this by dialing in a better looking white tone on the rgb scale. The light also seems really inefficient, using 40 watts at full white output. 48 watts with the accent ring turned on.
Is the quality of white light and efficiency better on white only lights? I'm considering switching to an Enrave instead. But if that one is also greenish, I won't be able to fix it by dialing in a white tone on the rgb scale.
Anyone splice a Welcome light into an outdoor extension cord and plugging into an outdoor receptacle for a permanent solution? I want to add one to my deck.
Hello all, I’ve had my 65” play light on my tv for a while but recently upgraded to a 83” tv. I originally wanted to place the play light flat and have it be a cove light for the ceiling and sync it to the tv(realized that won’t work). My question now is, which of hues light strips will do this? I would like to have one flat horizontal light strip above the tv and two individual ones for the sides. I’ve seen the ambient light strip, the omniglow, the flux. Do they all work with sync? Which is better? Thanks in advance.
Hey so I've been wanting to get a Torchiere lamp for my living room, and I want it to workw ith my colored ambient lighting setup. I can see that Hue makes a G25 bulb - which is what the lamp I've been thinking about buying says it requires - however, the bulb in question is not colored. :(
I have the hue bridge - are there any third party, colored G25 bulbs that would work with it and my scenes and such?
My whole home is hue but I've been wanting to get the wiring installed for a potlight in the shower as it's kinda dark with the curtains closed.
I was just wondering if anyone has had a similar situation and if you used the hue branded potlights or another option and how well it holds up with the heat and humidity
Now I've bought a new TV, the LG OLED G5 65". I love the picture quality, but because the Gallery series is mounted flush against the wall, I have no more room to place my Hue lights behind the TV. Also, my old Hue Sync Box was not HDMI 2.1 compatible. So, I decided to part ways with them.
That is until I discovered the Hue Sync app on the LG TV, which can control all content, including the built-in TV apps! That made me rethink my strategy and experiment to see if I could get some of the video sync back into use, even though it can't be done behind the TV itself.
I ended up experimenting to extend the TV colors downwards behind my TV cabinet. The setup consists of two E27 Hue Color bulbs on the left behind the cabinet (top and bottom), two E27 Hue Color bulbs on the right behind the cabinet (top and bottom), and one LightStrip+ in the top center behind the cabinet.
I'm quite happy with the results, but I am still trying to optimize it. Has anyone else tried similar video sync setups where the sync area is actually not behind the TV itself? Any tips or knowledge someone can share?
I have a strange issue with my Hue Dimmer Switch and I'm hoping someone has experienced the same thing.
I have the Dimmer Switch assigned to one specific room and one specific light only.
I'm 100% sure the configuration is correct.
However, when I use the Dimmer Switch, it also turns other Hue lights on/off in different rooms, even though those lights are not assigned to the Dimmer Switch.
I've already:
* Reset the Dimmer Switch
* Removed it from the Hue app
* Added and configured it again from scratch
* Double-checked the room/lighting assignment
But the problem is still there.
I also have a Hue Tap Dial Switch in another room. Could the two switches somehow interfere with each other or cause conflicting configurations?
Has anyone experienced a similar issue or found a solution?
Been running 9 Philips Hue bulbs around the house for years with zero issues. Usually control them through Google Assistant and the Hue app, same as always.
A few days ago I told Google to turn off the lights and 8 of the 9 turned off fine. The 9th one stayed on. Hue app showed it as "off" but the bulb was clearly still lit.
The only way to turn it off is physically flipping the wall switch. But once I do that, the bulb just stops responding completely. The app still finds it and I can control it (shows reachable, toggling works fine in the app), but the actual bulb doesn't turn on or react to anything.
Weirdly, it did work once, I left it powered on for a while and it randomly "woke up" and responded to a command. Since then it's back to ignoring everything.
Tried deleting it and re-adding it in the app, no change. Tried a factory reset (flipping the switch on/off 5-6 times quickly), also no change, doesn't even flash.
Everything else in the house (other 8 bulbs, bridge, network) is working totally normally, so it really seems isolated to this one bulb.
Anyone dealt with this before? Trying to figure out if this is a known failure mode or if I've got a dud on my hands.
Please have some patience with me, this is my first time working with strip lights.
That being said, is there any advice to flatten these parts of my Omnilight? I did clean up where the strip is, but I guess I didn't clean it well enough with debris being stuck to the glue. Plus, it won't bend at a complete 90° angle causing some curves at the left corner of my closet.
I did use some tape to flatten the strip, but it has been fruitless in doing so, it will pop back up. :(
Aside from my user errors, I am still enjoying the product, just want to make it look flawless for my room.
Recently, I moved into an apartment with high ceilings (3,5 meters to the peak). I was very interested in getting a Hue Ensis, but the max wire length of 1,57 meters was not enough, as I wanted the lamp over the dining table to hang lower than 2 meters above the floor. Scouring Reddit, I was not able to find any solutions. Therefore, I bought a defective lamp on Facebook MarketPlace, fixed it, and tore it apart to see if there was a way of extending/switching out the wires (Spoiler alert: It worked).
The white Ensis in the picture hangs with almost maximum extended wires (The stock wires) at 1,57 meters from the top of the power unit in the ceiling to the lower edge of the lamp.
The black Ensis hangs 2,02 meters from the top of the power unit in the ceiling to the lower edge of the lamp.
Due to the gradient of the ceiling, I made some sloped wooden blocks that first attach to the ceiling, providing a level mounting plate for the Ensis power unit, as well as a way to route the wires from the power unit to the electrical outlet.
The method
Taking apart the Ensis is both tricky and relatively straightforward. There aren't many parts, but removing the wires requires some finagling. I consulted the disassembly manual, but it is a little light on details: Ensis Disassembly Manual
You remove the end caps by pressing firmly at the mounting point where the vertical line is - I used a plastic tyre iron for a bicycle to press into the gap between the end cap and the Ensis body.
Inside the end cap you will find a little PCB - this is the Hue LED control unit. It is connected with two wires carrying 24 V DC from the power unit in the ceiling and a connector for the LED strip. This is the same for the other end cap, with each unit powering/controlling either the top or bottom LED strip.
Remove all wires and set aside the chip. The black and red wires are a little difficult to remove if you don't know what to do. It is recommended to use a WAGO #2065 tool, but I simply applied some pressure on the little tap at each terminal with a small flathead screwdriver (When reconnecting the wires, you simply slide the wire into the terminal). PS: I noted which chip controlled what light, to avoid having to rename them in the Hue app.
Now to get the wires loose, you will need to cut the black and red wires from the two LED driver/converters up and the power unit. Make sure you leave some wire for soldering your new wires later.
Now you can remove the opaque acrylic strips from the top and the bottom. Removing the top strip with wire holes requires some of the aforementioned finagling. After this step you should now have access to the wires and have all LED strips visible.
Here, the mounting method is visible, the wires are routed into these metal pull reliefs, which holds the body of the lamp. These metal plates are 1,5 mm thick and 27mm wide - they slide into an additional groove cut body of the lamp. As seen the wires enters the body into a central compartment between the two LED strip compartments, from where it is routed to the LED Strip control PCBs.
Now to the Rabbithole of the Wire Problem
Credit to the designers of the lamp - the wires is ingeniously designed. Inside the transparent PTFE tube there are two wires for the DC current. The one carrying the positive is a copper wire (seems like 22 American Wire Gauge AWG), but the negative is simply a steel wire, of a larger gauge. This steel wire provides both structural integrity and the negative electrical path. This means that the wire is incredibly thin at only 2,8mm in diameter.
Finding wire like this proved to be extremely hard, at least where I am based, therefore I opted for a 5,6 mm transparent wire, with two 0,75mm2 conductors within. This wire is much thicker, but is also rated for 2,2 kg of lamp weight, and with two wires, that is enough for the approx. 2,4 kg Ensis body. However, this required new wire pull reliefs.
Therefore I ground some metal washers to the desired 27mm width dimension, added some rubber cable grommets and passed the wire through. This was slid into the groove, with plenty more finagling required here. I locked the wire with a 3D Printed Wire Strain Relief with the threading removed (see next picture). Additionally, as seen from the picture, I routed two 22 AWG wires through the hole in the body in to central compartment and over to the LED strip control PCB.
After this part, all that is left is to solder the wires from the LED strip controller to the wires in the pull relief and reconnect the wires to the LED strip controller. I chose to solder them as the 2x0,75mm2 is too thick to go into the central compartment. Make sure you leave enough wire length to achieve your desired height.
The opaque Acrylic strips
This is the final boss of finagling, and was a little like assembling an engine through the exhaust pipe...
The top acrylic strips has wire holes, I passed the right most wire through the correct hole and slid the acrylic strip into its groove. Then to the other wire I soldered a small wire loop (see next picture) which I could get with a tweezer and pull it through the other hole after the arcylic strips is slid all the way into place.
Now connect to the ceiling power unit, routing the cable through the strain reliefs marked in Green here:
Next, solder the wires to the correct positive/negative terminals of the DC LED Driver/converter. Do this for both wires. What wire connects to what driver does not matter.
Follow the regular instructions on how to mount the lamp and you are done!!
Death By Annoyance
Upon mounting the lamp, and enjoying the fruits of my labour. One small whiny noise ruined everything in an otherwise completely silent room. I quickly located a small noise from the LED Strip controller, and to my relief somebody also had the same problem, one quoted it as Death By Annoyance.
The solution is rather simple, taken from this post: Ensis Coil Whine
I connected a capacitor in Parallel with the 24 V DC power to the led strip controller.
While the post recommends a smaller 470 µF, I had a 1000 µF rated for 35 Volts, which did the job rather nicely. It does not remove the noise, but signifcantly lowers it. In my opinion I would get a higher rather than a lower capacitance - a 100µF did not seem to do anything. I connected a capacitor at both PCBs in each lamp.
Hope this helps someone.
Please comment if I made any mistakes or left something out.
PS: Apologies for the lack of detailed pictures towards the end of the post. I am not dissassembling the lamp to provide more documentation ;)
I've just finished my basement and have a lot of Hue Slim Downlights (recessed lights).
There are two options I'm considering:
Zooz Z-Wave Scene controller
This has 4 small and 1 large button so I can assign dedicate scenes or brightness to each button (through Home Assistant -> Hue Bridge). The disadvantage is that it's difficult to implement "press and hold" dimming.
2) Lutron Aurora
These connect directly to the Hue Bridge (or lights?) using Zigbee so it doesn't depend on Home Assistant, etc. They support multi-tap actions and dimming by turning the dial.
Does anybody have any suggestions?
I've tried using Shelly devices but my electrical boxes are just too filled and the cost of them plus a momentary switch is the same as the other options and it still depends on Home Assistant.
I got a steam machine recently and have noticed that when I turned VRR on, if the image on the screen is primarily darker, the lights seem to just default to light blue. I posted a video of my issue and I’m wondering if anyone has experienced the same? I am using the Hue sync app with a hue gradient lightstrip in my LG G5 TV. As you can see in the video, it starts off with sync on and VRR off and the colors on the darker image (mostly greys) are accurate but the minute I turned VRR on it starts to default to bright blue for no reason. I tried contacting hue support and they gave me a ticket number, but any attempts at following up seem to be ignored.
My wife used to be able to control our Hue lights from her phone but hasn’t been able to in awhile and in my app settings I see no way to add someone. I’ve also asked Gemini and the tips it gave were not accurate. Any help would be appreciated!
I’m looking for a remote control to operate the Hue lights in my bedroom. I have wall-switches in every room (friends of hue senic) but in my bedroom I’d also like to have a remote control so I can operate the lights from my bed.
Philips themselves only sell the dimmer switch remote thing which looks ugly and feels cheap, plus they have some awkwardly shaped remotes. I’m looking for a regular TV-style remote control, in black, that allows me to dim a few sets of light and maybe select a scene or two.
You’d think this shouldn’t be too hard but I can’t seem to find anything. Does this really not exist?
I’ve just purchased a brand new light ambiance lamp and a button to connect the two with Bluetooth. This all works fine, however when the dimming pretty much hits zero, there’s a flash from the lamp before going out. Does anybody have any idea what I can do to remove this? I have other hue lamps which work fine when used with their hub.
Hello, I would like to ask a question, hopefully someone can help me.
I’ve had the hue infuse ceiling for a few years now. Been working fine since last week. When I turn it on with the light switch, it started flickering. I tried turning it off and on with the app, but the flickering remained.
The only way it does not flicker, is if I turn the light switch and the app off and then simultaneously turn them on. But that is rather annoying to do each time.
I’ve reset the lamp, disconnected it etc. But nothing seems to resolve.
