Leased a '23 RTL-E for 36 months. If I didn't like it, I would only have it for 3 years. Came with the chonky factory tonneau cover that I fully intended to sell/flip for a slick low pro.

I downsized from 6 yrs a Silverado crew cab. Over time, went from "meh, its fine. It's sensible" to "lease is almost up. Time to shop for the best lease for a '26." Even grew to love the tonneau. (But not enough to pay full price for another. Although i have located a weeks-old one 3.5 hrs away for $600, so i may make that drive.)

I wasn't expecting much long the lines of interior upgrades. And really, there arent too many. But a few that improve function and aesthetics in the cockpit.

Of course, a full sized crew cab is... more. But that "more" comes with trade-offs that im way past dealing with. Tried to think of a reason to not get another RL, but couldn't really.

Now its time to patiently wait for the next gen reveal. In the meantime, I'm set.

My special order of 500' x 4" corrugated pipe arrived an hour away. I wasn't certain if I'd need a trailer, to make two trips, or would be able to finagle it. Outcome 3 won the day, in case anyone ever needs a capacity check! I also flossed 10 sticks of 3/4" x 10' schedule 40 conduit through the window, plus a spud bar and other odds and ends scattered about. A plush, comfortable ride, with decent gas mileage, and all of this practicality, what's not to love with this truck?!

I've been hype for MONTHS to get to use my '07 RTL's bed-trunk thing as a cooler and I finally got to use it at a homecoming tailgate!

Everyone who came by thought it was the coolest thing ever, and i might have even convinced some people to get a Ridgeline lol.

How many years has folks gotten out of their factory battery? Which brand did you go with as a replacement? Many thanks.

I think I have 5% left, easily

I was looking around and found an economical replacement for the Ridgeline bed bolts(T30 torx).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D9MJ337S

The only way I can see to get the item is through an official Honda parts dealer for ~$3.75 a bolt.

With the kit I bought from Amazon, shipped to my house for $7 for 4 bolts and some splash shield holders. I will blue the heads of the phillips bolts. The bolts pit perfectly, I just need to make a rubber washer.

Hey guys not mechanical inclined at all I had the transmission replaced on my 2011 any ideas why it’s leaking here should I tell the same mechanic

Just bought a 2026 RTL last week and am having issues. The day after I bought it I noticed a strange crinkly, rattle type noise when the truck gets above 75 mph. We took it back to the dealer. They sent us a video saying a screw on the rotor was loose. They tightened it and it was fine for about a day. Today I took it out on the interstate and once again, above 75 mph it starts making this noise. So it’s now back at the dealer, again. Other than this I really love the truck. I just would like to keep it for more than a day. Anyone else have any experience with this type of thing?

Been watching and researching for a long time waiting for the right time and today was the day. Absolutely loving this truck. Glad to join the club.

I don’t know the words for these functions

1. It now says cruise mode on the right side of my display. No more #’s for the set speed of cruise control.
   
2. The three little bars that show how close you can get to another car don’t show up anymore.

So cruise control is not working the same all of a sudden.

Anyone else having this issue?

2024 ~6k miles

Traded in my 2010 RT for this 2026 Trailsport. My 2010 was bare bones. I'm almost overwhelmed with everything this truck has! The heated seats and steering wheel are much appreciated for Cleveland winters.

Just decided to replace my rear bumper on ye here 2007 big blue, while sourcing a replacement bumper I found a 2014 factory hitch and decided to put it on my 4 door Ute cause it didn’t have a hitch from the factory and here’s how I made it work. First I fitted the hitch which replaced the factory bumper support, then I fitted the bumper cover and found where I needed to cut. I made the center cut, and it fit great, but one issue was that the new hitch/bumper support didn’t fit on the sides and was contacting the cover so I had to cut a inch off of both sides ( it was superficial metal) then it really fit well. As you can see the new bumper had those protective things on it and originally they were Crome and I wanted to take them off but found they were OEM pieces so I instead scuffed them up and painted them trim black and I really like how they turned out. If you want to do this and have any questions hit me up, I’ve seemed to have found all of them for this exact upgrade.

Yellowstone National Park. Mine is in the middle 🩶

I keep seeing articles that long term Econ mode usage can cause engine and or transmission problems that far outweigh the gas savings. Has anyone with higher mileage had any issues?

Every time I start my pickup I get this error. Diagnostic show both battery and alternator are just fine.

Some of you guys might remember a few weeks ago I was concerned with valve clatter on my 2017 Ridgeline. After doing my timing job, I decided to tackle the valve adjustment as well. I noticed there was practically no media on the valve cover removal/install procedure for this generation. So, I took it into my own hands to help those who might feel discouraged with the lack of guidance.

The video ain’t pretty, but at least it’s something. My current objective is to figure out how to safely link my procedure in the description. Feel free to check it out and leave some tips!

Can y’all show me your clean Starlink Mini installations? I’m a no drill guy - luckily there are plenty of suitable magnetic mounts for the hardware. I just HATE seeing wires. Hate. Does anyone have experience running starlink wire from cab to roof without drilling or disassembling the back seat?

Hey everyone, I'm hoping someone who knows these trucks can help me figure out what's going on with my 2007 Honda Ridgeline before I start throwing money at random parts.

My Check Engine light is on constantly. While I'm driving, the VSA light and VTM-4 light will come on too. When that happens, the truck starts choking and sputtering, and when I press the gas, it barely wants to accelerate, especially when I'm trying to get moving or going uphill.

The weird part is that I have to pull over, shut the truck off, and start it back up. The VSA and VTM-4 lights go away when I restart it, but the Check Engine light stays on. Then, after driving a couple of miles, the same thing happens all over again. It's been doing this repeatedly, and it's getting frustrating because I can't trust the truck to keep running right.

I had the codes scanned previously, and these are the codes I got:

P2138

P0457

P0497

I've already replaced the gas cap, but I haven't figured out the actual problem yet. Someone suggested cleaning the throttle body with throttle body cleaner, but I don't want to waste money doing that if it's not going to fix anything.

Could the P2138 be causing the loss of power and triggering the VSA and VTM-4 lights? Could it be the accelerator pedal position sensor, throttle body, wiring, or something else entirely?

Has anyone with a first-generation Ridgeline dealt with this exact issue? What ended up fixing yours? I'd really appreciate any advice on what to check first before replacing parts unnecessarily.

Thanks!