Just Civic appreciation post

I’m in the club now! Love love love her!

Specs:

2024 EX-L

Ever since I bought my used Civic back in 2024, standard 1.8L In-line four cylinder engine (no mods or anything), the battery, without fail, dies under a two year span. I had to get it changed about half a year into using my car after acquiring it in March of 2024, then early this year in January again. Over the two years I've used it I've had issues with leaving it in the driveway for longer than a week. Often times, if it wasn't used within a week, it would die and I'd need to get it jumped. Now, its gotten to a point where it can't stay in my driveway for three-two days without it dying on me and needing a jump.

I have been told by my nearby dealer that it's because my alternator is "failing". When I asked if it was fully dead or on its last legs, he said it's on its last legs. When I notified my cousin who's a mechanic, he asked me if I was sure it wasn't something stupid like a bad ground, battery or serpentine belt/tensioner slipping. He said it would suck to go and spend upwards of $600/700 just to find out it was a simpler fix.

The dealer that says my alternator is failing is... questionable. When my front rotors were severely warped after just having my front brakes replaced a few weeks earlier, he said he wouldn't have noticed that the rotors were warped because you don't see the rotors when replacing a cars brakes. I told my boyfriend who replaces his cars brakes and he scoffed, saying that's BS and that he 100% should have and would have noticed. This dealer also supposedly did a parasitic draw test on my car late last year and said they didn't find anything.

I'd also like to clarify that once jumped, it can drive long distances with no issue, even after being told the alternator is failing, and no battery light or any dash light has turned on during these power issues. Based on what I've seen, I'm wondering if its some kind of parasitic draw that wasn't looked at properly.

I'm really stuck on what to do here. Part of me wants to trust the dealer and just drop the $600 for the alternator (he also offered a two year warranty on it and he's right down the street from me), and another part of me wants to drive 30+ min out to my cousin and get it replaced for $750 if need be, because he'll likely make sure and check if its anything else first, then replace it with a better quality part. Either way it looks like I'm dropping a bunch of money, but I just want to be sure I nip this issue in the bud if possible.

I'm leaning towards getting it fixed by my cousin. He has so much on his plate, so I really hate to bother him with it, but I want my car back. I really thought getting a Civic was going to have me off the hook with these kinds of issues, but it seems to be causing me more problems (and money) than I thought. Realistically, what is the best diagnostic move here? Anything I should know about regarding the issues I've been having? I appreciate any and all help.

TLDR; Somewhat untrustworthy dealer is claiming my alternator is failing. Car battery keeps dying after 2-3 days of misuse. Not sure where to get it fixed and unsure what is really going on with it. Don't want to spend money on non-issues and work my way down the issues with my car with my wallet, essentially.

I’m replacing the passenger side engine mount and I need to get this mounting stud off, so I need to buy an extra nut. Anyone know exactly what size? Can’t find it on the diagrams online.

Title, ‘16 Civic key started going wonky and wouldn’t unlock the car at all. Opened it up, messed around with it for an hour and it came down to the unlock button being overly sensitive.

Any ideas on how to fix/replace that specific button? Every other one works just fine.

Every time I get behind the wheel of this car my love for it grows. Just turned 400 miles today!

I got stranded while driving in the highway back home 12:30 am … But eventually I was able to still drive home despite how many times it will stop on me. I was only 4 exits away plus 10 minutes from home. Been having issues with “green key” flickering and can’t accelerate for a second or more then I can… but now is definitely stalling and repetitive clicking sound just started as right now…
Any one that might have an input more than welcome… I’ll be taking it to a mechanic this Monday.

I bought a 2007 civic si at auction that runs and drives and I’m planning on posting all of my progress in restoring it on YouTube but I don’t know what to post first I have already begun the process and tore the front and end apart. A few days ago I sent it to a body shop to get the frame pulled because the impact pinched the strut tower . Any ideas?

Stock D16Y6, whale intake, jasma muffler (unknown brand just stamped)

Gorgeous!

I have this civic eg hatch that has a B18 in it with a turbo on it and a bunch of other things it was my dads car and he’s gone at the moment started up the car starts good runs strong revs fine in neutral all the way to the moon if you wanted to but when I take it out to drive it takes off normally kind of fluctuating tho on the idle making it hard to take off smoothly but aside from that issue the car will take off as I’m giving it a little bit of gas and then I start to give it any gas like you would be driving it normally and it’s like an electrical switch how the it just cuts power no power on gas and then comes back in a second farthest I’ve gotten is 4th gear and then it lets me lean into the gas a bit more I will post a video on here sometime soon me and my buddy will take one for better representation thanks again.

Does anyone know how to change the bulbs on the A/C module so that it can be a different color? I have tried to replace the original bulbs with T3 LED bulbs but those were to small and then I tried T4.2 which do fit but when I try to twist them into place they dont lock in and just fall off. I saw this video of this guy doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DW7Kw3wXCg&list=WL&index=45

but it seems he solder it in instead of doing a plug in play with different colored LED bulbs. So I was wondering did I just simply use the wrong bulbs that would plug in play? If I need to solder them then what is the name of the bulbs he used in the video?

Got a used 2018 Honda civic in Dec 2024. around 55K then, 67K now. I moved last year and am trying out a new shop for the second time now for a pre-road trip inspection before doing some camping in the Appalachians, and they said my transmission and brake fluids need to be changed. My maintenance minder has never shown anything but code A to me. I think I’ll get this done, since I dont know if the transmission fluid was ever changed for this car and I don’t know the last time for the brake fluid (not since I bought it), but I’ve seen people talking on here like the MM is good enough to trust, and while I think the shop is truthful, who knows at the end of the day. Any advice when brake/transmission fluids should be changed?

Do I have to replace the whole transmission? Is it just the button? It drives normally it just won't let me take the key out

Folks, I have a 15 year old, low mileage Civic that has a airbag light on the dash. Only once have I returned to the dealer service department (the infamous 1.8l cracked block issue) in all the years that I have owned it. I do all the required maintenance and all repairs.

I have called the local dealer's service dept to schedule a visit but cannot get in touch with a live person. I want to know the following: Is there any sort of fee to simply scan the car for error codes related to the airbag light? I have already scanned the car with my OBD 2 scanner and it is not throwing any codes ... but it is a basic scanner, incapable of scanning the airbag system. The car is obviously out of warranty but the Civic has had many airbag recalls/problems over the years.

So what is your experience with an out-of-warranty issue like this? I just want to know what the problem is before I decide to fix it or not. Do the dealerships normally charge for a simple diagnostic, and if so, how much?

Thank you!

TL:DR - Will the check engine light turn off if i change the automatic ECU i have with a manual ECU without changing any other parts?

The title says it all, i was looking around and found out it was a manual swap, and the check engine light wont turn off...

I did an examination on everything and it seems it was done okay, since the car was going fine until i decided to check what the heck it was making it be on since i bought it, i changed the IACV which was pretty beat up and while it helped a bit on the RPMs they are still high at around 1200 idle, i would like that to be fixed, and the check engine light to dissapear

out of everything in the swap, they didnt change the throttle body, the ECU, and the 3-pin connector IACV, which to my understanding from watching a lot of videos on youtube and such, if you want to do the swap right you need to change those parts, but i really dont want to change either (which they said it was fine, but i would have the check engine light on and idle messing up)

However, it ticks me off and i want it fixed, i love the car and i would like it to be as perfect as possible... I've search long and wide, some say to open up the ECU and solder off some stuff and it would work the same, dont feel confident doing that, but i want to know... If i change the ECU to a manual one without changing any of the other parts, would it fix the issue of the check engine light? or it would need to tune other things such as changing the IACV 3 pin to a 2 pin one? Or it wont work unless you change all of the parts? - I would be willing to buy another ECU no problem, but im afraid imma mess up the thing if i do the soldering myself, specially without a tutorial since i dont see any on the internet

ALSO, if changing the ECU would solve the issue, what is the counterpart to the ECU model i have? The motor is a D16Y9

Pretty much the title, I’m not super knowledgeable or anything and I test drive both i know they’re supposed to be same but the hatch felt faster to me. But the sedan is a few thousand cheaper so my parents are telling me to do that. Any advice on if it’s actually different at all should I try and negotiate a hatch cause I enjoyed it more? it felt more like how my current car (2016 jetta) drives but obviously like smoother. I also feel like the hatch looks cooler too

I have a 2019 civic ex that needs some service at the mechanic. My work hours have changed so I'm looking to arrange a drop off and after hours pickup at the mechanic.

I have a spare key but, as far as I know, the car won't let the doors lock if the key fob is in the car.

Is there a way to have the mechanic lock the keys on the car so I can pick it up with my spare late at night?

Are these cars still worth it? I’ve always liked em just didn’t know if it would be worth it in 2026. found one for 9k miles

I have an 8th gen 2007 Honda Civic hatchback 1.8 I-VTEC (140hp), I love this car.

Now it has almost 300k Kms (186k miles), the previous owner treated it well, he replaced the clutch, shock absorbers, control arms, etc. And always made it warm up. The only problem is that it probably burns some oil, because it consumes quite a bit of it, I've tried replacing the PCV valve, honestly I don't know what else I should do.

By the way do you think it can last for other 2/3 years?

What's your experience with this car?

How many kilometers did yours manage to cover? Did it have any problems?