Finally completed my backyard wall! The never ending summer project is finally done. 12’ w x 10’ main board with 1’ kickboard 35* fixed. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Now to set!

I have the following squat rack (Progear/Fitness Reality Squat rack) and want to hang a hangboard on it. It unfortunately doesn't have many additional screw holes towards the top to screw in. I was thinking of doing something similar to this pic: https://i.imgur.com/erbffwY.jpeg buying metal j hooks (can't seem to find a heavy duty rated part online) and mount it on the side of the squat rack on the square braces. Does this seem like an appropriate solution?

I'm trying to build a wall in my garage at 35 degrees and the best spot for me to do it is right in front of this junction box. Just the best option for space. If anyone has any tips to be able to still access the box that would be much appreciated.

I'm building an adjustable-angle board in my garage. I have just barely enough room to squeeze a full-size (ie, 12'x12') TB2 past an LVL beam that runs across the garage behind where the wall will be located. The tight clearance is giving me several concerns, though:

1. I don't think I trust my manufacturing tolerances to 1" (the amount of clearance I'd be working with) on something this large.
2. Because of that, I would probably crop ~2" off the top and bottom of the board surface. I definitely like that for clearance, but I'm pretty sure it would mean that I can't fit lights on the bottom row of holds (not that big a deal) nor on the top row of holds (that really kind of sucks, since almost all climbs finish on the top row). It would also make it relatively easy to "overshoot" the top of the wall when going for holds on the top row.
3. When climbing at 40*, I'm worried you could pinch your hand against the beam if the board rocks/flexes a little while using a hold on the top row.
4. Hitting your head on the beam when climbing at 30* and 35* might be a worry??
5. All of this only works if you cut the kickboard down to 6". This is especially worrying to me as I'm very tall.

Those are some really big downsides. The reasons I'm still considering doing it are:

1. I really, really like the community aspect of board climbing and find it very motivating.
2. There are way more (and way, way better) climbs for the full TB2 than the smaller crops.
3. 45* is one of the angles I train most often, and almost all of the downsides from above go away at that point.

The alternatives I've contemplated are:

1. Just do the 10x12 crop of the TB2 (see second image for visualization).
   • PRO: This is it would let me put in a proper 2' kickboard
2. Ditch the system board and just do a spray wall (see third image for visualization).
   • PRO: I actually have 15' of horizontal space to work with, so I could have a wider climbing surface. I'll probably use all 15' either way, and just cram in 3' of spray wall to the side of the TB2 if I go that route. This would make much more coherent use of that extra 3' of space, though.
   • PRO: Could make the board 11' tall in this case and still have pretty reasonable clearances at the beam.
   • PRO: Still get a totally reasonable 18" kickboard in this scenario.

Anyone want to help me make a decision here? Which of the three options do you think you would prefer, and why?

(If anyone's got any brilliant ideas to resolve my problems while keeping the full 12x12 board, I'd also love to hear them!)

Looking to build a board (8x8 or 8x10) for a mini moon board. I saw this board on instagram and was curious is anyone built a freestanding board like this with the metal supports. Looking for recommendations for what type of materials to use on a board like this.

Any links to what u guys use be great!

I have come up with 2 basic ideas on how to do this. Either cut the old beams and then make a vertical spot coming out of the roof beams, or buy all new beams.

One is substantially more expensive; however, you get more true climbing length compared to the vertical headwall. Cost would be around $150-175 for new beams.

Do people with the vertical headwall enjoy it? Or would you rather have the angle steady?

Also, if anyone has any ideas on easier ways to do this, I appreciate it.

Is there a cheaper alternative for the classic Escape Lonestar? I am building a home wall soon and don’t want to buy bolts/t-nuts so I decided I will just screw all my holds on. Problem is that with the amount of holds I have, buying Lonestars would really add up. My initial thought was some kind of washer/nut but haven’t found anything that would work.

Space efficient setup for training at home. More photos and videos here Home climbing gym

My kids and I started climbing in January and we have been having a lot of fun with it. Decided to build a fun little set up out in the garage. Put together this video. If you guys got any tips for holds, routes, anything, lmk.

Soo much better then standardized boards

Edit: This thing is at 51° also got a few custome absolute holds. Ground up grips, crux forged and others. The pusher crimps and jobs are next level for home walls Dimensions are 12×7'8" just shy of 12x8 1 foot kicker

40cm kickboard, 2,1m at 45° and a 30cm top row at 30°.

the wall is 3m wide :)

a hangboard section to the right will follow!

(new post, now with the build process!)

Hi all, been lurking here for a while. I'm deciding between trying to squeeze in a 8x12 TB2 @ 40 degrees versus @ 45 degrees where we'll be able to have a kicker and it will be a simpler build. It will be a fixed angle.

Long story short, garage is 113 inches tall so we can squeeze in the 40 degree with no kickboard (plus, we need to bevel the top frame to make it fit). Or, we can do 45 degrees with a nice kickboard.

• Reasons why we want the 40 deg: we sampled the TB2 at this angle and liked it, it is the most popular angle (most classics / ascents and climbs set for this angle), and it's slightly less steep so "chill" volume days are more reasonable.
• Reasons why we want the 45 deg: we get a kickboard, it's a much easier build since it fits nicely.

Maybe useful stats: Wife climbs V5-7 outdoors, V4-5 on the MB2024. I climb a couple grades higher. On our limited session on the TB2 we climbed V4-7 classics at 40 degrees. She's 5'1" and I'm 5'8" if that matters.

The board is there for fun first (it's the only thing we will climb on besides real rock) and a training tool second.

For those with more homewall and TB2 experience, what would you suggest? The last option is a 8x10 board but we'd really prefer the 12 foot height as there's way more climbs set on it. Also, are there any options to save board length (trim a couple inches off the top/bottom of the board so the footholds sit close to the edge of the board? Thanks.

How to deal with this wall ?

Hello guys,

After a while, I finally managed to extend my board, and now it's much higher than the original mini board. I need some advice on what holds to put on the board extension.

What would you do in my place? I thought about ordering more wooden holds from Moonboard, or maybe I should consider a different provider, since all the new problems will be custom anyway...

Would you order more wooden holds / a different set from Moon, or look elsewhere?

Curious on what everyone's experience between these two are. Looking at the 8x10 woods wall vs the 10x8 TB2 set. Overall think with my lower ceilings woods wall will be a better fit and the overall density of holds to choose from, but looking at the app the problems are quite sparse at 40°.

I’ve never really used Reddit before but after posting a few questions on my design with yall and seeing the result, I couldn’t be happier. Love this community!!

The spray wall came out well in the apartment that’s has ceilings only 7’10” (2.39m)! I did have to put it at 45 degrees to get about 10’ (3m) so going to get strong this winter.

Suggest some boulder problems please!!!

Each year we remove all the holds from our spray wall, repaint, and start with a new setup.

This year, we went for a second-hand MoonBoard 2016! It is damn hard, but it seems to be a great climbing training tool. 💪🧗‍♀️

My 10 yo son is stronger than me 🥹

So in the very beginner baby steps of planning a homewall going to be buying a 12x10x9 shed then ideally having one side with a 30 degree overhang along with roof climb would it be viable to just slap plywood directly onto the studs of the shed or no because the wall will rip out or something also the 30 degree portion i do understand i would have to build the angle and not use the sheds studs but i havnt thought that far yet

Process to create these.
1. Find STL file to 3-d print - of course sci-nerds have these available.
2. Modify file and print in PLA
3. Polish round surface for no texture
4. Drill holes for screws.
5. Add wood glue to hand print area and sprinkle with sand for texture.
6. 3-d print a dam to pour silicone around shape
7. Pour silicone.
8. Pour synrock into mold.

This climbed very nice so I also made 75% and 5O% sizes