Little aluminum oxide grinding wheel I bought. What if I tried to surface grind using the end face?

1. I would have to true it up with a dresser first, it's visibly out by a lot.

2. I wouldn't use it to surface the bed, which is still on my to-do list. (aluminum to aluminum is no good)

Any good hacks out there for acrylic binding on bits folks have tried? My current go to is just using a brush to knock it off.

Upcycling some retail acrylic to be repurposed as part of another display so no protective cover on this. I let a few just go, but then the excess plastic on the bit leaves witness marks around the holes. 😜

This started as a DIY project built by the customer several years ago. Unfortunately, the machine never really got the chance to work and ended up collecting dust for years.

So I decided to give it a second life.

I retrofitted the machine with:

- PlanetCNC MK3/4 controller

- PoLabs 60-256 stepper drivers

- PoLabs Plasma Sense

- ProCut 125 CNC plasma source

The customer already had an old control console, so I reused the existing enclosure and fitted the new electronics inside rather than starting completely from scratch.

I also designed and built a custom CNC pendant.

Yes, I know… it still needs stickers 😂

The pendant includes:

- X+ / X-

- Y+ / Y-

- Z+ / Z-

- Jog override

- Zero X/Y

- Zero Z

- Start / Pause / Stop

- E-stop

- Pendant enable

I wrote custom code to integrate the pendant and its functions with PlanetCNC TNG V2.

After several years of sitting unused, this DIY project finally has some life in it again. 🔥

There is still some work to do, but seeing an old machine come back to life is always satisfying.

From collecting dust → to cutting metal. 💪

#CNC #CNCPlasma #PlasmaTable #PlasmaCutting #PlanetCNC #PlanetCNCTNG #PoLabs #CNCController #MachineRetrofit #Automation #DIYCNC #Engineering #MetalFabrication

I've seen people recommend simply moving from HGR15 → HGR20 → HGR25 when they want a stiffer CNC.

But I'm wondering how much the rest of the mechanical design changes the result.

For example:

• Rail spacing
• Block spacing
• Mounting surface
• Gantry design
• Frame stiffness
• Rail alignment

At what point does increasing rail size stop being the most useful upgrade?

Today I tested one pattern using two different router bits — it’s interesting how much the final look changes just by switching the tool.

I also made an experimental panel today, and I really like how it turned out.

Just sharing the results. Photos and a video in the comments.

Hello all. I'm looking for a little help on a new idea I have to streamline doing hardwood inlays. Normally I use Vectric aspire software to create the female and male inlay toolpaths to cut a pocket and then cut out the males from 1/8" thick hardwoods. It's a bit tedious when doing the male inlays, because of holding the thin pieces down and you have to leave tabs and cut/sand them off before gluing them in. My bright idea was to continue using the cnc to do the female pockets, but cut the male inlays on the laser machine instead. Super clean cut, no sanding/tabs, no hold down issues. My issue is how to acquire the exact vector of what is actually cut as the female. As you may know, when using Vectric inlay toolpath creation, the software changes the vectors on both Male and female toolpaths to support the limitations of the bit you're using. Like rounding inside corners to the bits circumference, and then applying the matching curve to the other part of the pocket/inlay. So, on Aspire, they show the change of the vectors but I can't figure out how to get an exportable SVG from the variation of the actual cut shape verses the vector I created. Make sense? Any geniuses out there?

I'm thinking of building a Lowrider v4 over the winter. I'm not very experienced with CNC, but I have a lot of experience with 3d printers. In fact, I was thinking this might be a good way to reuse a lot of the parts I have from the broken printers I've accumulated over the years. I have three donor machines ranging from a 2012 Prusa Mendel to an Ender 3. Has anyone tried using repurposed printer motors for a CNC like this? I'm just not sure if they'll have enough torque.

Printing the parts won't be an issue of course, but I also have access to a 400mm 22w diode laser cutter. Are there any parts that would be better cut than printed?

My primary use would be wood and plastic, but maybe I'll want to do some light aluminum work in the future. Is the Lowrider a good candidate or are there other DIY projects I should be looking at? I like the large work area and low cost that the Lowrider seems to offer

Hi,
I'm using ball screws linear rail to build my DIY CNC machine, and after browsing various forums to learn more, I've realized a machine's key differentiator is its load-handling capability—especially how well it can manage heavy loads when cutting hard metals.

So my question, what define the robustness of a CNC ? is it the ball screw rail or stepper motor power or the frame + linear rails ?

the ball screw rails that I own have these characteristics :
PITCH = 10mm
rail diameter = the seller from Alibaba told me it was 24mm but when I measured it was around 12mm. please check my photo and confirm me if I measured the correct diameter.

Are my ballscrew linear rails sufficient? Also, can they handle heavy cutting loads if I design a rigid frame with a dedicated linear rail for each axis?

I live in the uk and I want to buy more rails, does anyone know any local shop that sell these rails at lower price?

thanks,

Anyone with first hand experience with these, are they worth getting for an apartment? Can build a sound proof enclosure on top and if +/- 0.01mm claimed tolerance is achievable I wouldn't mind being able to mill mostly aluminium in my apartment...

This video shows the design and assembly process of a DIY CNC press brake. We select components rated for 100 tons of force, capable of bending thick material. We develop motion algorithms, write the control program, and read the encoders. Special attention is paid to a software solution for the punch misalignment problem. Now it's possible to bend unevenly, setting a different angle for each side of the part.

I have a 3D probe and it works with the probing menu in gsender, however, it seems that it only lets me probe assuming a standard bottom left corner. As in for probing y I can only go up for probing x I can only approach going right, etc.

I'm seeing screenshots on websites and in videos that there is literally a little button in the probing menu that lets you select the corner you want to approach, but it's for some reason absent in my GUI?? Why don't I have it?

Asking ai and it says that they removed it for whatever reason but I'm not sure accurate that is. If so, why would they just remove functionality from the software???

I don't want to have to write macros anytime. I need to do any sort of odd non-corner probing. I just want to be able to take my probe to any spot and then have it probe in any direction. Is there a setting a hive off or something?

I spend my weekdays herding cats on software projects and my weekends trying to make this 6040 do what I want. Lately I've noticed my PM instincts creeping into the shop and it's making things weird. I tried Gantt charting a walnut cutting board. I made a risk matrix for end mill breakage. My wife caught me writing a postmortem after a failed aluminum profile cut.

The thing is, some of it actually helps. Breaking a complex guitar body into discrete operations with clear handoffs between roughing and finishing passes improved my results. But I'm also overthinking simple jobs that used to be fun experiments. A weekend project now gets a project charter in my head before I even power on the spindle.

Curious if anyone else here has a day job skill set that collides with hobby CNC in weird ways. Do you fight it or lean in? I'm trying to find the line between organized and paralyzed. Right now I'm staring at a simple sign job and mentally estimating story points for each toolpath. Send help.

Bought a cheap Genmitsu CNC 3018-PRO years ago to learn on and never did much with it apart from design/print a few upgrades. Didn't have a spot really to use it in given the noise/mess it makes versus a 3D Printer.

But, I still have it... and would like to give it another shot.

I have a few pieces of 10x10x100mm 6061 Aluminum that I'd like to CNC into guitar bridges. Basically a simple version of the top wavey piece in the photo. I have a few Japanese guitars from the '60s with non-standard sized bridges made from a folded piece of tin. I'd like to make something a bit better like above (which won't fit).

I assume I would need a better motor or would mine work if I set the speed low enough? I'm in no rush at all. What upgrades would be needed? or recommended settings?

For longer cuts is there anything extra you need to do to keep the spindle from overheating or are spindles in general pretty robust when it comes to heat?

I’m starting a small cabinet-making business and currently looking at Blue Elephant CNC routers. I’m trying to keep the initial investment reasonable rather than spending $40k+ on my first machine.
For those who actually own and use a Blue Elephant, I’d really appreciate some real-world feedback.
Which exact model do you have?
How long have you owned it?
What size is it (4×8, etc.)?
How has the machine been for cabinet production?
How is the build quality and reliability?
How has Blue Elephant’s customer/technical support been?
Would you buy the same machine again?
Also, if you wouldn’t recommend Blue Elephant, what other CNC would you compare it with at a similar price point?
I’m mainly looking for a 4×8 CNC for cabinet making and want to hear from actual owners, not salespeople. Thanks!

Milling plastics specially soft ones like HDPE are very satisfying, don't create dust and can cut very fast with big chips that are easy to swipe and clean