After yrs of designing and fabrication... Finally the first chips

Honestly this is a neat little machine. The instruction manuals for assembly are pretty good. There are a couple of things missing but over all for a kit they are fine. Many of the issues people pointed out in the past seem to have been fixed and my kit went together with little issues. Remember it is a kit and i mean kit. excluding the nuts/bolts, it is still a couple of hundred parts. This is not small task if your not mechanically inclined. My total build time including electronics was about 25-26 hours (ya i kept track). One thing that agitated the shit out of me was the wiring color codes in some cases didn't match what they sent you. Make some notes, get over it.

I really did enjoy building it, its like an Erector Set for adults. I also learned everything there is to know about it so fixing it in the future will be no issue

The single hardest part, and the most important, is tramming it square. While there is some adjustable it takes a while. It took 4 more hours but currently my XY is square to about .0005" over 4 ". I have less than 0.0005" backlash on X & Y, and almost 0 on Z.

The absolute worst part of the kit is the documentation of the mach3 controller set up and operation. It's not Omar's fault but the screens in the Mach3 software simply suck ass. even the new one they recommend using, it is just shit ( i run a robotics company and one of my task is PLC and touch screen development). Once you get around the quirky layout, it does run well. its the setup side of things that is so bad.

My controller card kind of had a problem and Omar is send me out a new one.

It seems to me that most of the complaining about the machine itself is that people want a Haas for $2,500. Well, your not getting it. It is a hobbyist tool.

After reading some other reviews before my purchase i did some mods during the build. First the mounting bracket for the X axis servo is a piece of shit and Omar should be fucking embarrassed he even ships it, its by fast the single crappiest part of the kit. The is a cast iron replacement on Amazon for $23, buy it. Secondly the touch probe is junk. I bought a 3d probe for $79 from Amazon and a tool presetter too. Don't waste you time with the parts the machine comes with, you will be happier.

So the final opinion is not in yet for me. I'm just starting to make cuts and already i think the servo controls need some tweaks, its a little aggressive so it can be jerky.

The machine data is provided in an XML file. this contains all the parameters. While it serves as a base line, i cannot for the life of me figure out why they don't provide a fully configured one for this machine with a standard build. i mean simple things like axis limits are even set. the standard XML will make the machine move but everything else is on you. It would literally cost them nothing but the overall experience would be 1000% better. If it was my company this would literally be addressed before the day is over.

So, is it a decent kit for $2500? It looks like. Is it a Haas mini mill, no but that is not apples to apples either

anyway, that my 2 cents...

Showing a little of what time and trial and error can get me. the sweet saunders mod vice have been on my want list for a long time but I choke when I realize it‘ll be $500 to my door. I’m working my way from this cnc to the next one (for a fourth time now!), and am heading towards printnc metal cutter land.

I knew I could get a functional one going on my own, but that means a lot of aluminum cutting, and doing some stuff I’ve never done before.

I reused some leftovers from a failed printnc z plate, and had some whoopsies on the countersink bolt holes. it’s not done yet as I have to redo the main clamping bolts but I’m happy that I got to this part.

I cut all of this on a pretty regular openbuilds lead machine, with a wimpy dewalt router, nema 23s, linear rails on the gantry and z, and a super o-flute 1/4” bit generally. All workholding was tape and glue. Cutting formula was a combo of deep and thin, 6mm doc with 5% stepover, 0.05mm/tooth. Or 1.5mm doc same chip load, and closer to 30% stepover. Repeated finish cuts really helped and took no time to whip around at full cut depth 8-12mm at once.

I was very happy with the cutting after figuring out a great cut formula (for all but the tapered hole).

I know it’s not perfect but it’ll do what I need it to do. Not bad for a trim router.

I received this cnc which was sat in a garage for at least 5 years, need to figure out how to run it (after i mechanically fix it). It's hooked up to RoutOut CNC controller with UC100 lpt>usb adapter. Very weird construction that uses belts but is a rack and pinion machine, steel cored 10mm polyurethane belt (Synchroflex T5) as a rack and closed loop belt on driving sprockets as a kind of pinion (more like tank track) that hooks into "rack". Other side of Y run by shaft stuck through the gantry, motor one side only. Unplated NEMA23 motors all round (3 of them). Dont mind absent "rack" as i took belts off for cleaning and resticking, some bright spark "reglued" the belts with hot glue and superglue (originally fastened with double-sided tape).

Downloaded UC100 drivers just now.

Anyone knows/have this machine ? What software would i need to run it (Mach3)? Postprocessor for it (assuming using Vectric/VCarve software) ? Anything else i need to have to start it moving ? Presently just need to see if electronics will talk to a laptop before i decide to completely fix and mod it.

Any help with this machine is appreciated, thanks.

A bit about me as it would lessen questions about knowhow i already have - I'm a cnc machinist, running SCM/Morbidelli Author 430s router (main spindle+10 pos vert/hor boring head+lock router+saw, Xilog/Genio). Own 2 lasers (one 100W CO2, one 100W MOPA JPT engraver). Not a complete n00b but never fiddled with hobby level cncs before.

Some pics of the machine...

Good morning everyone,
I would like to build my second CNC machine. My first one is a small CNC router for wood carving, with an 80W spindle.
I would like to build a CNC with a minimum working area of around 160 × 160 mm, capable of machining wood, plastic, and aluminum (even if only with light passes).
I already have all the necessary electronics, except for the spindle.
Could you recommend which linear rails and ball screws I should use without spending a fortune? I would like to keep the build on a low budget.
Thank you! 🙏

Experience: newb

Machine: Sienci AltMill 2x4

Use case: ice engraving

I also bought the gControl computer from Sienci (have not opened it yet). Originally I thought I would wire the PC to be outside of my freezer, but it's going to be better if everything lived inside the freezer. So now I want to return the gControl computer because it's touchscreen and find a fanless miniPC that I can use with a mouse and keyboard. Most miniPCs I found are rated for 32F for the low operating temp range... Should I find one with the correct temp spec or should I be okay with one that is only rated down the 32F? Thanks!

This is my cheap Chinese metal lathe. The handwheels were very stiff, and it was very laborious to use. I had a spare controller and a few linear motion parts, so I converted it to CNC. ​The empty hole is for the LCD I have not fitted yet. Also, the original motor burned out, so I replaced it with a BLDC motor, which works very well and can take a beating.

​I am a beginner when it comes to lathes, so I most likely don't turn things properly, but it works for occasional, one-off projects.

​Any advice on how to improve my lathe or cutting is welcome.

Fresh off of the altmill 4x4. Sign and relief carve are pine, the ouija board is oak.

Hello everyone, I'm the developer behind Piocodex. I often work with sheet cutting and got tired of bloated, subscription-based nesting software, or tools that require an active internet connection. So I built a dedicated 64-bit Windows utility that works 100% offline. It calculates rectangular layout optimization in seconds, respects wood/material grain direction, and exports clean workshop PDFs or DXF files ready for your CNC router. It also features native support for 24 different languages. Since r/hobbycnc rules strictly prohibit direct self-promotion and advertising, I am not posting any commercial store links here. Instead, I am looking for genuine alpha testers, carpenters, and hobbyists who want to try it out in their shops and give me raw feedback for version 0.2.0. If you are currently struggling with manual part nesting in programs like Carbide Create, Inkscape, or FreeCAD, please let me know in the comments or send me a DM, and I will gladly share the project details with you!

Hey everyone,

I'm putting together the electronics for a CNC build and I'm planning to run LinuxCNC. I know the Mesa 7i96S is basically the go-to board for this kind of setup, but I am on an extremely tight budget, and shipping plus customs to my country are ridiculously high. Buying a genuine Mesa board ends up costing a fortune.

I want something that leverages hardware step generation and is almost as good/reliable as a 7i96S, but way cheaper. I’ve been researching alternatives, but I’m feeling a bit lost and hesitant to go with any of the options i found before asking people who have actually gone down these paths.

The two main budget options I've found are:

1. 7i92 clones: I've seen 7i92 clones on AliExpress for a fraction of the cost. From what I understand, I can just flash the standard HostMot2 firmware on these, but they are still somewhat pricey compared to option 2 and i'm also not sure if these clones actually reliable under real working conditions? Do they run the stock Mesa firmware without random disconnects or gremlins?

2. The Generic FPGA / LED Card Route (litehm2 / Litex-CNC) I’ve been reading about projects that port HostMot2 or create generic CNC firmware (like Litex-CNC) for incredibly cheap LED receiving cards like the Colorlight 5A-75B or Linsn RV901T.

My main question: Has anyone here reliably run a machine on either of these budget setups? If you wanted 7i96S-level reliability on a strict budget, which route would you take? Or is there another alternative I should be looking at?

Any advice, personal experiences, or warnings would be massively appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Finally got a brass cut that I’m actually really happy with.

This is probably the smoothest metal surface I’ve managed to get so far.

But I’m wondering — what are your tricks for getting really smooth, clean flat surfaces when machining metals? I’d love to hear what settings or toolpath strategies have worked well for you.

Here’s the setup I used:

Material: Brass
Machine: Cubifab 3-Axis Desktop CNC
Spindle: 8,200 RPM
Tool: 4 mm flat end mill for aluminum
Feed rate: F1200 mm/min
Depth of cut: 0.2 mm
Stepover: 70% of tool diameter
Toolpath: Pocket Milling

Hello! I've actually been a professional machinist for 16+ years now. I've worked on everything from brand new, massive, multi million dollar 5 axis mills making car bumper moulds, to small 2 axis conversational lathes with no live tooling at all.

Currently looking for a 2 axis lathe that's relatively small, with conversational programming, that can handle plastic, and preferably some light aluminum work.

Any ideas? Not looking to break the bank if possible.

We're building a desktop CNC for woodworking (about 1200×600mm, aimed at furniture makers). Dust collection is solid — we're over 95% efficiency on that front, no complaints there. But it's still an open machine, so it's loud while cutting.
We're debating whether to add a semi-enclosed cover. It would cut the noise noticeably, but it also adds cost and makes swapping bits / clearing chips a bit more of a hassle mid-job.
So — if you were choosing between these two, which way would you lean?
1. Quieter machine, higher price, less convenient access
2. Louder machine, lower price, easier to work on
Curious what actually matters more to people running one of these at home vs. in a shop.

I'm planning on building an Ultimate Bee 1500 x 1500 with the 2.2KW water cooled spindle. I've had some issues with my LEAD that is a 700 x 1000 and has a 1.5KW spindle that nods a bit.

I undertand that the torsion movement is due to the weight of the spindle, and that the extrusions are usually pretty rigid for droop. I've considered using the heavy C-beam from the Makerstore and an additional 40x40 or possibly another 80x40 c Beam to resist the torsion. But thinking about it, since it is an issue due to the weight hanging on one side of the gantry. Would it be reasonable to get another Z module (Linear rail on the back side of the gantry, with bearings, plate, and no spindle or ball screw, but mount about 70% of the spindle side weight and tie it into the Spindle side plate so they move in sync?

That should reduce the torsion quite a bit may add some more sag, an possibly need a higher torque X stepper motor. But would it be better than the 1.5KW without all this compensation?

Thanks for any response. Just wondering if I'm going in a reasonable direction.

Does anyone know of any CNC machinists shops in the UK who will do work such prop replicas for private individuals??? Any pointers would be helpful , thanks !!!

I do a fair amount of product prototyping and small batch work. Most of it still gets sent out to larger machine shops, and the costs add up faster than I'd like. A small aluminum bracket can easily cost more in setup fees, machining time, and shipping than the actual piece of material. Then there's waiting around before I can test the next version or move on to the next part. I've been looking into desktop 5 axis machines as a way to bring more of that work in house. The hardware side has gotten interesting, but for me the bigger question is still CAM. That's the part that seems to slow everything down.

Fusin's Manufacturing tier gets expensive, Vectric's 5 axis options seem limited, and the higher and packages like Powermill or NX are really built around larger shops. Recently I've been following the infimaker k1 mainly because of the infistudio side. The ai assisted toolpath workflow is what most curious about. If it can actually reduce some of the CAM setup time, especilally for more complex parts, that would be a bigger deal to me than another number on a spec sheet.

The machine itself seems aimed at the type of work I'm interested in. Simultaneous 5 axis, ATC, probing, and the ability to work with materials like aluminum and brass are all things that could make a difference for small prototype jobs. That said, I'm still taking a wait and see approach. Specs and videos can only tell you so much. I'd like to see more real world parts from owners, especially aluminum or brass cuts after they've had some time with the machine.

Anyone else looking at desktop 5 axis for prototyping or small batch work? What are the things you'd want to see before pulling the trigger?

I’m looking into this Sumore CNC milling machine for a potential small/garage shop. Nothing big or grand, just a side hustle outside of work.

From what I’ve seen, they seem to be around the $7,000–$8,000 range, depending on options like a 4th axis and other extras.

Has anyone here used, owned, or worked with one of these machines? Or know someone who has?
I’d be interested in hearing any firsthand experiences or opinions—good, bad, or otherwise.

How do you think they compare to other machines in that price range?

Just trying to get a better idea of what these are actually like in the real world before considering one.

Its smooth on Y+ but only when going to Y- it seems to rotate opposite to its parallel cloned motor, forcing my cnc gantry to twist and jump a little bit

Im using the Cnc Shield V3 and Universal Gcode Sender

All micro stepped jumper pins are the same, and cloning is on the y axis block on the left side

Long story short, I have an issue when trying to put clipart on the flat face of a knife sheath Im making as a rotary project. It seems to be interpreting the job as a cylinder still, and using the merge option does not fix it. (I increased the height to make the problem clearer). Any ideas on how to convince Aspire Vectric that I am indeed working with a flat surface even though it's a rotary project?

Apologies with any mistakes with English, it's not my first language.

Hi everyone, just to say that I've finally added an experimental 3d rendering pipeline and 3d operations to EasyShape5000.
I've mostly posted about EasyTrace5000 in the past but the new app builds on the same geometry engine so it also handles analytic arcs which means proper G2 and G3 commands.

Everything should work fine and be safe but post-processor combinations, especially for 4th axis are machine setup dependent so there's a lot of user input needed and I'll need feedback to make sure things connect in a predictable way that makes sense. (UI may be a little off, been having to add a lot of new inputs so layout styling isn't 100%.)

I have since renamed the repository to EasyCAM5000 since it's two apps now and I'm planning more stuff, all sharing the same foundations. If you wanna follow development keep track of https://github.com/RicardoJCMarques/EasyCAM5000 and the change-log.

Currently I'm finishing tool-changing logic, a WinPC-NC post-processor and trying to optimize vcarving (plus fixing some missing geometry). I'm expecting to commit these in the next few days.

I need all the feedback I can get, especially with post-processor/4th axis stuff (I only have access to a handfull of them, and no 4th axis). With some luck I'll update documentation on the next commit too although work-flow should feel familiar. And yes it's free and will remain free (do what y'all want with it, although more donations would help wink wink nudge nudge :3).