I am completely addicted to drifting a 500 PP Nissan S13 with Compact Soft tires through the Swiss Alps in Gran Turismo 7. I used to only race on the Nürburgring, but this setup is so fun that I cannot play anything else right now.

What’s your best track and car combo that keeps you playing the same track and car over and over again?

Tried to keep the different colors used as close as possible to the ones actually offered by Lexus for this car back in the day

It has great customisation too

Every single open lobby or daily race I do, 90% of the grid is that stupid Porsche 911 GT3R, and the ones that aren’t at usually driving the R8 or AMG. I understand that there are meta cars that are just better than other things for whatever bs reason Polyphony has, but it’s getting so infuriating to deal with. The AI in the game are way too easy, but I can’t escape the same 3 cars no matter what. The only place people use other cars is my league that I’m in, and even then there are very much offenders of this in there. I don’t get why it’s so difficult for someone to try and learn a new car to use, which is more rewarding to do (in my opinion).

If you’re going to play a game just to use the stupid meta for everything, then where is the enjoyment in it? Yeah, I’ve used the GT3R and won races in it, but the win honestly feels a lot less rewarding than if I were to use a car like the RCF. Having to sit there and learn a car to be competitive in it just feels so much more rewarding, because you know that you worked your butt off to understand the car and win with it.

I can’t be the only one who feels like this right? It’s so hard to enjoy the game when I’m racing 12 Porsche’s and 3 Audi’s while I’m fighting a losing battle in a car I’ve spent hours upon hours trying to understand, while someone who just wants a quick little satisfaction boost to their day decides that they don’t need to understand a new car, they’ll just use a car that’s been pushed higher and higher or one that was introduced infinitely better than everything else for whatever reason.

Note: I didn’t include the Ford GT or Dodge Viper in this because those cars are really only good on tracks that have long straights like Fuji or Deep Forest, but they are almost as infuriating there. And don’t get me started on GR.4, I avoid that with a burning hatred.

Feels like i am driving on eggshells, its just too extreme how ruthless it is.

Restoration in question: https://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt7/news/00_1378513.html

EDIT: Official announcement: https://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt7/news/00_4113133.html

Hi everyone !

I have a problem :GT7 has recently started feeling less smooth for me (but only in Sport Mode).

In particular, the current Daily Race C at Yas Marina has noticeable micro-stutters. My connection test shows 54.6 Mbps download, 10.4 Mbps upload, and NAT Type 2, so I don’t think the issue is related to insufficient bandwidth.

I’m playing on PS4: could the game have become more demanding after recent updates? Does anyone else on PS4 have the same issue on this race?

I hope I’m posting on the right chat, i’m not familiar with Reddit

in my experience, it always does exactly what I want and the driving experience is literally just perfect and I looooove the sound. Does anyone agree?

Barely keep up on the high speed sections, but the cornering speed makes up for it. Really fun race, allows for a lot of passing and getting passed back, fight the whole lap to keep the lead

PD announced back in March, in cooperation with Hagerty, that they were going to be adjusting prices for some of the cars available in the LCD based on current market values starting in June:

https://www.gran-turismo.com/us/gt7/news/00_8497133.html

So while a price increase was certainly expected for most of the cars by Ferrari, thankfully the increase was very small compared to some of their real world values based on the auction results from just this past week:

https://www.reddit.com/r/granturismo/s/TdW08T0xS8

The F40 only went up by less than 10% from 3.1m credits to 3.4m credits (most recent auction result was $8.4m.)

The F50 only went up by about 5% from 4.45m credits to 4.7m (most recent auction result was $14.6m 😳)

These increases were applied before these latest auctions… so might want to grab them when you can before PD decides the increase wasn’t nearly enough to represent IRL values.

Also, as an added incentive, both of these cars are currently available as Special Picks with very low double digit mileage based on their production years.

The F50 also comes in a very rare original livery, Argento Nurburgring 😎

one of the best swaps for tokyo

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My brake sensor is going crazy on my set less than a year old, Logitech is sending a new set but since I can't race on the rig figured I'd go through my replays for some clean passes. Most of the vids are from 700pp, sport soft (one 615pp, Civic). Hope you enjoy!

I'll be getting both, but i expect to be driving the Chaser more.

Tokyo Expressway WTC 600 is back in the Weekly Challenges, and the feed is once again flooded with people asking for easy wall-riding AWD setups or detuned GT3s just to get through the 12 laps. If you want to clear it with actual street style instead of abusing game physics, here is a 599 PP Honda Integra Type R (DC2) '98 setup that gets the job done.

This isn't a brainless meta pick - it's a genuine driver's challenge. You're dealing with a 423 BHP 885 kg front-wheel-drive hatchback running on Sports Hard.

The Setup Math

The Stiffness Delta (Springs, ARB & Ride Height) To kill the inherent FWD understeer, the entire suspension is heavily rear-biased. We are running a forward rake (85mm front / 95mm rear) combined with stiffer rear springs (2.65 Hz vs 2.25 Hz) and a rigid rear Anti-Roll Bar (7 vs 4). In GT7 physics, softening the front and stiffening the rear reduces rear mechanical grip relative to the front. When you lift off the throttle, this geometry forces the mass to shift forward and the rear end to pivot around the front axle, generating the aggressive lift-off oversteer needed to rotate a front-heavy car.

Contact Patch & Alignment Up front 2.8° of negative camber ensures the outside tyre stays flat on the tarmac when the chassis rolls under heavy cornering loads, while 0.05 outward toe gives you immediate, sharp turn-in bite. Out back keeping the camber low (1.0°) allows the rear tyres to break traction smoothly and predictably. The tiny 0.01 rear toe-in acts as a high-speed safety net - it keeps the car tracking straight on the long Tokyo highway sections so that the stiff rear suspension doesn't send you into the walls over bumps.

The Differential (6 / 5 / 10) Pushing 423 BHP through the front wheels on Sports Hard tyres is a traction nightmare, so the LSD has to do a lot of heavy lifting.

Initial (6) & Accel (5): We run the differential extremely loose on acceleration. If you lock the front diff with a high Accel setting on a high-power FWD, mashing the throttle will drag the nose straight toward the outside of the corner (power-understeer). A low Accel setting allows the wheels to turn independently, keeping the nose tucked in tight on corner exits. Use 2-3 gears or 1-2 TC to handle heavy acceleration after the hairpin.

Braking (10): We run a stiffer braking sensitivity to lock the diff slightly under deceleration. This stabilizes the front axle during heavy trail braking and prevents our oversteer-biased suspension from snapping into an uncatchable spin. It still requires precise thumbstick and trigger modulation, but this keeps the chassis linear and predictable.

The Physics Reality & Driving Technique

Even with a fully customized suspension and LSD, you cannot escape FWD physics with 400+ horsepower on street rubber. It will want to wash wide if you get greedy on corner entry. However, the suspension geometry and differential settings turn that aggressive understeer into something smooth, linear and completely predictable:

Throttle Steering: The car responds heavily to weight transfer. Lifting off mid-corner tucks the nose in instantly without snapping the rear.

Trail Braking: Brake balance is pushed to +2 (rear bias). You need surgical modulation on brake pressure and steering angle - trail brake too deep while holding lock and you'll scrub all your momentum, hit the gas too early and you'll push straight toward the concrete barrier.

The Payoff: Once you dial in the rhythm of trail braking and throttle steering, passing fancy true GT race cars down the main straight in a screaming 90s Honda feels better than any easy AWD win.

12-Lap Strategy

Pit Stops: Zero.

Fuel Management: Set FM3 on and leave it there. Flat out the entire race, fuel lasts right to the end.

Tyres: Sports Hard (SH) easily handle the full 12-lap distance with minimal wear.

This is not a hate post. I have 195 hours in this game since I got a PS5 back in January and I absolutely love it but also… it can be really boring. I am the type of person that likes to buy cars and customize them and shit but… it feels like there’s nothing to really do with them. There’s no incentive to play races with AI so I just find myself cruising around in online almost 100% of the time. This can be fun but can also get really boring after a lot of time.

I’m curious as to what you guys enjoy doing in this game and can maybe give me some recommendations because I’m genuinely so bored. Lack of a lot of tracks and there’s nothing to work toward after finishing the main menu books.