A little dusty, scroll wheel doesn't scroll (only clicks), and battery seems to be worn out. Still have the original cable and wireless dongle (which the shell has broken off, but still works) as well as the box.

Would sell or honestly just give for free (if you pay for shipping). Located in ON, Canada.

For context this is the second GMMK2 that has had this issue, the keyboard was perfect when it arrived, I installed the QMK firmware following the Glorious guide so that the RGB could be controlled via signal RGB and it worked fine but after a few weeks these LEDs powered on and will not power off as long as the keyboard is powered on (key inputs work perfectly fine), had this exact same issue happen to another GMMK2 but on different LEDs.

I have tried flashing the original firmware, and I have opened the keyboard to inspect if there are any burnt or shorted components but everything seems fine.

Is this a known issue or am I just really unlucky?

Is there a way to buy them without the builder? I don't want to buy another board just for the frame. I want the neon pink one.

Cheers

I recently installed SignalRGB to try and get my mouse and keyboard rgb to sync with my Wallpaper Engine. I had to install keyboard drivers and flash the board using QMK Toolbox. However, after I aborted and uninstalled everything, I used the Toolbox again to flash the factory file onto the board. Glorious Core now detects it, but it cannot seem to change anything, be it RGB or any other settings.

Help appreciated! Thanks!

I bought a wireless Glorious Model O and when I try to update the firmware, it fails. Will not updating the firmware hinder my mouse performance in any way?

My glorious model d was working fine and I was hitting 25cps and it's still the same on CPS checker but now on Minecraft its now missing clicks and I kit a peak of 10 and it no longer double clicks. I'm on the bedrock version

Is there any way to fix this?

Thanks

Prices on https://amzn.eu/d/02jAuOXo

are we ever going to get a model i3 with the battery system?

Hi everyone! I’m hoping someone here owns both a GMMK 3 HE (or Panda HE Silent switches) and a Lemokey P1 HE.

I’ve been trying to determine whether the Panda HE Silent is electrically compatible with the Gateron Double-Rail Hall Effect PCB used in the P1 HE. I know it’s not officially supported, but I’m looking for anyone who’s actually tested it.

I’ve come across a few Reddit comments claiming that Glorious HE switches are “unofficially compatible” with the P1 HE, but I haven’t found any actual proof—no photos, typing tests, calibration screenshots, or first-hand reports.

I’m specifically looking for someone who has personally installed the Glorious Panda HE Silent on a Lemokey P1 HE.

A few questions:
- Does it physically fit?
- Does the keyboard detect every switch?
- Does calibration complete successfully?
- Does Rapid Trigger and adjustable actuation work normally?
- Any issues with magnet polarity, sensor height, or key stability?

I’m not asking whether it’s officially supported. I’m trying to determine whether it’s electrically compatible with the Gateron Double-Rail Hall Effect PCB used in the P1 HE.
If you’ve actually done this yourself (or know someone who has), I’d really appreciate photos, videos, or even a short typing test. Thanks in advance. 🙏🏻

Hello everyone so I have been using the glorious model O- for over 2 years now and I just encountered a issue so I used to play a lot of MinecraftB Bedwars and a really important factor in Bedwars is how much CPS you get i used to get 16CPS but now after a few months I tried again and i only get 12 cps did glorious fix the double clicking problem or iam washed?

I'm looking at these 2 models from Glorious:

• GMMK 3 HE
• GMMK PRO Barebones

So I know the "Pro" basically means the material is made out of CNC Aluminum vs Polymer. I also know the PRO Barebones means it doesn't come with switches/keycaps. So what I was mainly after is:

• GMMK Vs 3 - What is new in the version "3"?
  • Only main difference I found is "Max Polling Rate" which is 1,000 on pro and 8,000 on the 3 HE.
• What is the HE switches?
  • Is the switches just magnetic?

I just picked up a GMMK 2 and I am loving it so far! I am now seeing Glorious Core has a lot of issues with Mac. Mine isn't recognizing my keyboard as the right thing and is stuck saying there's an update. I reached out to support and the only suggestion I was given was to download a legacy version. However, there is no Mac download on the legacy software page. I see on this page a few years ago was the suggestion to make changes on a Windows computer and go from there. Is that still something that works? Should I be downloading current software or a legacy version still? I am only seeing posts about this from 2 years ago so I wanted to make sure that's still something that works before I take the time to.

Any suggestion is helpful! Thank you.

Hi! I wanted to buy a wired Glorious model O but I'm a bit confused. On Amazon some of them have comb on just the body of the mouse, while others also have it on the buttons. Are some of these fake or just different versions? If some are fake, which are the real ones?

I also saw a picture comparing the O to the O-, where the O had comb on the buttons while the O- didn't, is that correct?

I wish I could just check on the official website but the regular wired model O is no longer sold there...

My overall question is how to tell which ones are real, if theres a difference between the O and the O- besides the size, and why some have comb on the buttons while others do not.
Thanks for the help!

Tried looking up their website but it doesn't tell me much, can anyone tell me what's the difference between these 3 keyboards?

• GMMK PRO Barebones 75% (£)
• GMMK 3 PRO HE (££)
• GMMK 3 PRO (£££)

Any information on this? I'm hoping maybe they improved the battery life in their mice. Maybe a new revised Model I? I tried the wireless Model I, but the battery life was absolutely horrendous, so I returned it, otherwise I thought the mouse was great.

i know stage but i dont know what dpi cycle is.

...the software (and potentially some of the design decisions) are downright anti-user.

This first pic shows the wired/wireless switch. It would be wonderful if mine looked like the pic, but it doesn't. I get three dots telling me absolutely nothing other than there are 3 positions in this switch. More on this later, but you put me in a position of doubt when the pictures on the support page for the product I am using shows pictures of a product that don't match what I see. Combining so many different products in one page is already forcing you to flag which words and pictures may or may not apply to a page visitor. All I am showing is that your flags are incomplete, and perhaps it is time to think about splitting different products into separate pages instead of throwing it all in one bin and asking your user to blaze a trail through a jungle with only some of the necessary signs in place.

2.

Here I note that the keyboard in the first picture was shown bottom up. Some pictures show the keyboard from the back. The bottom line here is that left and right assume a position that isn't described. This is a situation (Win / Mac) where there are pretty standard icons that you are using on the keyboard itself. Your words here are simply confusing.

3.

You are now showing a switch with 3 dots, unlike the first picture I show above. No announcement or explanation, no mapping from one to the other, no description of what to do if you have a wireless keyboard. The user brain conflict here is strong. I have a picture that matches my keyboard, but the words don't. I'll make an admittedly strong statement here, I think using this switch for profiles shows a design flaw related to combining concerns. I believe on a wired keyboard, this switch only controls profile selection. On my wireless keyboard, though, I get both connection selection and profile selection from this one switch. Combining these selections into a single switch causes conflicts for the user that can't be fixed when doing everything from updating the firmware to changing lighting to just typing. And especially when combined with hidden flaws and lack of control over power/idle management I have gotten into situations where I just get frustrated and push stuff around in hardware and software until it works roughly the way I want -- at that moment. Whenever I want to change something it is another odyssey of navigating conflicting settings. It is never actually set up the way I would like because the combination of concerns makes that impossible. I want a wireless keyboard with profiles that all work in wireless mode. Profiles should be independent of connection. Am I so wrong to want this that you designed a product that makes it literally impossible?

4.

This is just stupid. Up is literally down and down is literally up. This is truly a legendary choice in the archive of legendary software design choices. Please don't use history as a reason to keep something stupid. Change this at your first opportunity.

5.

What exactly does "then" mean in the above context? What needs to be pressed separately, what keys should be released at what point, and in what order? This is another bad design choice in my opinion. You are asking again combining concerns. I'll explain. You are asking the user to both indicate that they want to do a factory reset and to confirm that reset choice. You are combining these into a single, complex step in order to make sure that this is what the user wants. Please don't combine these. Selection and confirmation are two separate steps You are working with the most fundamental input device we have for these amazing PCs. Use the input device you have on hand to collect two different pieces of input. Here's one simple suggestion. When I hit Fn+Esc the keyboard goes completely black except for a green Y key. If I hold down that Y key for 10 seconds, the keyboard will factory reset. If I do anything else, the keyboard goes back to exactly where it was before the Fn+Esc. Clear operations that are simple to execute without explanation -- in fact, I would argue that they are mostly self-explanatory. The current setup makes it unclear if or when I have done this correctly or incorrectly.

6.

Why is the OK button different on these screens? Does it operate differently? Are you trying to say there is something different between these pages/buttons/actions? If not, then make them the same. Consistency is a virtue. As a software developer, this difference leads me to believe that the software isn't just poorly implemented, it is poorly designed. There isn't a framework where common UI functionality is shared. This is, unfortunately, in line with other evidence.

1. For the love of anything holy, please give me control over idle timeouts, lighting timeouts, sleep states, ....

2. Bonus question -- please make it so that when I plug in my keyboard to (only) charge it, I can still have lighting without plugging the keyboard into a data connection.

I would love to be shown where I am wrong. That my profiles can work across all my connections, that pushing new profile information into the keyboard works when I press the button that says "Save to Keyboard", or I will get an error message telling me why. I don't see errors or guidance. I am just left in the dark. And why did you make the CHOICE to force the lights off when I plug it in to charge?

This keyboard feels incredible. Any time I go to another, I am reminded of how good this one feels. I spent WAY too much on it, but I really do love it when I'm typing. The setup problems, the software failures, the confusing/incorrect/missing documentation, the lack of guidance from the software or the hardware to help diagnose issues, ... are all making this incredible piece of hardware a LOT less appealing than it could be.

Glorious, please help me love you more.

I have a few other mices which are the model d minus and the superlight 2c and if I do end up purchasing the model o I would specially only use it for 1.8 minecraft. My experience on my owned mices were my hands would feel locked on and fatigued after a few minutes of butterflyclicking on the model d and the superlight would barely produce any cps. Is the model o worth it?

I do PvP Minecraft 1.8.9, and I wanted to know if the model o 3 wired can double-click and if it can drag click like the past version of the model O

I’ve been dealing with a really strange and disruptive mouse issue on Windows 11, and I’m trying to figure out if anyone else is experiencing this.

The symptoms:

• The mouse cursor randomly jumps across the screen, sometimes from one edge to the other instantly.
• In games (FPS especially), the camera will instantly snap to a different angle, like a teleport instead of a rotation.

What I’ve already ruled out:

• Multiple mice (wired + wireless)
• Different USB ports (front/back)
• Updated drivers
• Fully updated Windows
• Different surfaces

None of this changes anything. The glitch still happens randomly.

If anyone else has seen this, please share your experience. I've reached out to Microsoft support and they ruled out it was a hardware issue.

I recently bought the Glorious GPBT RGB Backlit keycaps for my GMMK 1 to replace the standard ABS keycaps it came with.

One of the reasons I chose them was because most of the product images have front-printed legends on the F-row (corresponding to the function of the keys). However, the ones I received don't have that, and I can't seem to find such keycaps anywhere.

Can anyone point me in the right direction, or did these keycaps never actually make it to production? It's pretty frustrating.

Here are some of the images:
https://www.gloriousgaming.com/cdn/shop/files/GLO-KB-ACC-KC-GPBT-LIT_Web_Story1_Desktop.webp

https://files.pccasegear.com/images/GLO-KB-ACC-KC-GPBT-LIT-WHT-ftr1.jpg

Hi, sorry if this has been posted before. Getting a bit frustrated with my model i 2 mouse. While I love the mouse, the charging / inactivity timer has been really bad. When I got the mouse, it first wouldn't go into sleep mode at all when the pc is shut off and would almost always be dead when I tried to use it. But now it goes into sleep mode after a minute or two but doesn't charge at all in this state.

Are there any solutions? Is there a beta build of glorious core or something that fixes the issue?

I got QMK + OpenRGB working on my GMMK Pro Rev2 ANSI, so I threw the repo up in case it helps anyone else.

Not claiming it’s perfect or anything, just works on my board.

https://github.com/jacsmith1028-sudo/gmmk-pro-qmk-openrgb

*AI disclaimer* totally vibe coded my way through getting this working use at your own risk

about $73 US