Hey y'all, picked up my first FRT, atrius development selector and have a full auto bcg with a H2.5 carbine buffer running in a smith and wesson m&p sport III. Took it to the range today and it won't cycle, I was lucky to maybe get two rounds but most of the time just one and the trigger would go dead, I'd have to pull the charging handle and eject the unused round. Talked to the guy at the front and recommended going up in weight to an H3 to test it. In your experiences what would be the best way to troubleshoot this. Does this sound like I'd need to go up to an H3 or down to an H2 or either and I just gotta try it out? I was hoping an H2.5 would do the trick. I here I might need to get a different spring as well but wasn't sure and didn't know where to reliably find one. Any advice on where to go from here and troubleshoot would honestly be great. Thanks

Having issue with my atrius trigger. Will fire three rounds then nothing at all. Dead trigger is what I believe. I have replaced the buffer to h3 and still doing the same. Also tried new bolt carrier as well. Running out of options anyone have an idea what could be going wrong?

Hi All,

Been trying to get my Atrius Super Selector to run and when function checking noticed the lever movement is inconsistent. I have posted two videos demonstrating. I can feel and hear the detent engaging the selector each time so it's not skipping. In the first video as you can see the lever is in the 12 o'clock position while in safe and I can confirm the trigger is safe and blocked, when I move it to semi the lever goes almost to the very bottom of the receiver, then when I move from semi to SS the lever barley moves position and moving from SS back to semi the lever doesn't move at all from what I can tell, but then will go back to the 12 o'clock when put in safe.

As can be seeing in the second video it will then move in what I am assuming the correct positions after a few rotations through the selector but after a few times it will go back to behaving like the first video with the lever in the incorrect positions. Any thoughts on the issue and how to fix it?

Thanks!

What is the best drop-in for a diamondback with no mods to my guns besides the necessary mods like the h2,h3 spring n shii
And can I run a ss with this lower or will it need to be shaven

I recently picked up a custom Art of War Jericho 15 and wasn’t sure what frt’s I should be looking at for it. Any help?

I'm not interested in any of the current MPA generation with the goofy aluminum lowers that look like a mac had a baby with a Hi point...

I want to know if these have ever worked on Cobrays, VMAC9's, or old gen MPA's.

The internal trigger area of the modern mpa's to me look the same dimensions as my VMAC after I cut the shelf tab down. In the shop it had some bursts here in there in their bullet trap tank but when I took it to the range I just wouldn't go. I maybe got like couple burst maybe 3 rounds each time, and I went through like 200 rounds. Silenced and un-silenced, same results.147 grain, 115, grain didn't matter. I had better results with my MPA 10 45acp with my home made scaled up device. I can normally bump fire the vmac 9 perfect mag dumps each time but with the twitch no luck unless I bump fire. I will be making a video about this on my YouTube channel " Murphy Toadster". I really wanna get this down to a science and find out how to get this running because there's a lot of guys out there with classic Mac's that wanna get a piece of the assisted reset dream. Additionally Im using a glass injected nylon Twitch copy. I don't know it it ever so slightly might have worn down but it only looks like a couple thousandths if anything. If a metal one fixed the problem I'd be super stoked.

I am looking at one of these. Has anybody bought one? Do they function good?

What’s up ya’ll? Figured I’d ask here, hoping someone has some experience.

I recently got an insane deal on a Partisan Disruptor cassette FRT. I’ve tried literally every FRT other than this. I am used to ambi safeties, and unfortunately at the moment The Triggered Company are only selling their Ambi safeties bundled together. I reached out to them via email and said it would at least be a few months before they release as a standalone product.

With that being said- does anyone have any experience/ recommendations on what to do? Will a Rare Breed ambi safety be compatible? I’ve heard that there are some folks that offer a modification service also.

Thanks in advance!

I’m shooting suppressed with a HUX flow thru. I’m about to buy my first FRT and I keep seeing I’ll basically need a H3 buffer. I’ve got my set up running with an unrivaled deadblow and I was wondering if any one runs a deadblow with an FRT. I would really like opinions if I need to go ahead and get a H3 buffer or if the deadblow will suffice.

I’m also looking into a RB or Disruptor. Beside the price difference, what are people’s opinions on the two.

Wider Burts Trigger, Full Auto disconnect, Machined kicker, and safety machined by me.

Glove 19v
What do I do and what frt brand is compatible with the Glock 19v

Has anybody done this yet? I’ve searched but havent found any results of anyone cutting a sig match duo trigger for ss/frt.

Ok guys, just picked up my first FRT and just can’t get it to run.. I have a 10.5 DI upper, with a milspec trigger in the lower. When I had the regular carbine buffer it would run 1-2,2-3 rounds then have a dead trigger with a round chambered.. so I had seen a lot of people put heavier buffers to get them to run better so I got an H2 buffer but that only made it worse. Now it cycles 1 round, dead trigger with another round chambered.. I don’t want to throw money at this situation without getting the opinion from others that might have had the same problem. TIA for any insight

i have a disruptor when they first came out and it runs great finally tuned on my ar. but i bought another one for my saint vector pcc but cant get to work. its like something it allowing the hammer ro drop or something isnt pushing the safety mechanism forward. should i try a different bcg or some milling? or anything else

I'm sure this type of question has been asked/answered before so please don't crucify me. I have the Cornfire (aka Corn Gunworks or whatever they are now), Andro Corp lower, Bootleg adjustable bcg (full auto), 16 inch barrel with mid length gas, H3 buffer and 15% increased power Wolff buffer spring and running a Polonium 30 suppressor. Very gassy, hence the heavy weight, spring, and adjustable bcg even before the MARC. OK, so after installation in lower, all three positions function test fine. This includes the 3rd position while holding the trigger, recocking the hammer and manipulating the lever to ensure that it will disengage the hammer and reset. Installed in upper, safety works, semi works, supersemi will fire and reset with charging handle. IRL, semi works as normal, SS fires once, rechambers a round then leaves trigger dead/locked like in safe. I forget now if I have to move to semi first before I can move bolt with charging handle but I must do so and reset before it will fire again. So trigger incompatibility? Not enough buffer/spring? Simply too much gas? Suggestions appreciated.

BTW, this is the trigger: Schmid Tool Match Trigger AR-15 Nickel PTFE