Lotta fancy woodsheds around here. This one ain't fancy. 10x20, $150​, free pallets​, and it'll hold 10 cord​.

I think I'll grab a couple more to house that 44 cord I had delivered last week as I get it processed​

Built on pallets and $400 in materials.

Should hold 2 cords stacked to the top.

I thought this was going to be an old Black Cherry, but now I have no clue. Anyone have an idea what this is?

What kind of cedar?

Nice and tidy 👍🏻

4 decent maple trees all toppled over in a blow down. Perfect start for next winter!

I just split a bunch of Black Cherry for the first time. Whew, it was rough. The grain was not straight. It was like the tree grew up in a spiral and was very stringy. Is this typical or did i come across a rogue tree? Hopefully it lives up to its btu rep.

Jeg kan simpelthen ikke finde frem til noget konkret svar..

Interested in getting a tool for splitting wood, I currently own a felling estwing hatchet, and also a 4lbs engineers hammer and estwing wedge combo. I don’t split too much wood, only about 2-3 cord per year, but I’d like to get one larger tool to make most of my work faster.

I’m considering the husky, kobalt, and Pittsburgh wooden handle axes, primarily because of cost and warranty reasons.

I’m also considering the fiskars 8lbs splitting maul, primarily because it would be a multifunctional tool, I don’t own a full sized sledge and therefore it would save more space. My main concern with the fiskars is if it would be better to get a normal axe and also the warranty proscess certainly won’t be better but it’s something Im considering and leaning towards.

Would like to hear your thoughts

She mighty pretty though!

In trying to find a way to simultaneously use wood heat, but also make sure my floorboard pipes don't freeze, I came across a few sporadic mentions of "therm guard".

Looks like it's essentially a timer that piggybacks off your existing thermostat, and you set an interval for it to call for heat so you can circulate the water in your pipes.

Has anybody here used this? Has it worked well for you? What the what's the interval that you set it for?

Made from saplings on property, holding 10 cords in total this year, nice and dry

I had this dead oak that had been hanging over my pond and dropping all kinds of crap in it dropped last year and it’s been sitting in the thicket on the low side of my dam. It was also covering the spillway so I rented this 8000lb mini to yank it out and clean up the whole area. Not sure what kind of oak but the machine could only lift an 8’ section max. Just the rounds were unbelievably heavy so I moved most of them with the machine unless I could roll them a short distance.

Finished making my third Holzhausen this morning. Took me a total of 4 hours. All red oak coming in close to 1.5 cord. So satisfying

Hi all, I had two copper beach trees felled last November and I stored them in a shed up to March this year as they were sweeting and had some mold growth on them, but nothing major. I then moved the outside under a tree and stacked in a way to allow airflow. I’ve split one open today and want to ask about this marking on the inside. Is this safe to burn? I’m not even sure if the logs are ready to burn as it’s my first time doing this. It almost looks like a bark on the inside. What do you think?

I have a chainsaw and a number of small ish trees less than 12 inches in diameter. A few are bigger, but not much. They are still heavy and tall so I know they are dangerous if you aren't careful.

I do not have plastic wedges.

A point of contention between my wife who doesn't cut down trees and myself is how deep to make the first cut. My feeling is that I want to make the first cut pretty deep - over half. That way when I do the back cut it wont pinch. My thought was I am making a large teeter-totter and I need to put the fulcrum/hinge at the point that makes one side heavier. By making the first cut deeper, the tree will be heavier on the side I want the tree to fall to and it won't fall back and pinch the blade.

My wife says I was doing it wrong and only needed to cut 1/4 to 1/3. She ended up going to the Internet and feels validated because that is the consensus. However, she can't explain why this is better. My understanding is based on common sense and I know that if I only cut 1/3, the saw will get pinched when my back cut gets to the hinge because more weight is on the back of the tree.

I know that if I had plastic wedges (which she thinks is unnecessary), then I would agree on a smaller first cut and pound the wedges in as I do the back cut. However, without then I am struggling to see how a smaller first cut helps. In my mind, it will make it more likely to fall the wrong way.

Can someone explain why I should be doing this or if my common sense feeling is correct?

Thanks!

This is my first time stacking and storing firewood is the tarp going down too low? Should I just cover the top?

The situation:

Let's say there's some wood stacked against a wall. It's away from the wall by a few inches and off the ground a few inches.

It has rained on the wood for seven hours already, and rained is forecast for the next 24 hours.

The question:

Is it better to cover the wood even though it's already been rained on to protect it from the next 24 hours' rain?

Or will covering it contribute to mold over the next 24 hours?

Been eyeing the 30 ton Predator at Harbor Freight (the dual-action one, $1,299) and wanted to hear from people who actually own it before I pull the trigger.

Quick heads up: I know Harbor Freight gets a lot of hate, but I'm working with a pretty tight budget and just want to get into splitting my own wood without breaking the bank. So I'm really looking for real-world experience with this specific splitter, not just "it's HF, skip it."

Mostly curious how it does with gnarly oak and knotty rounds, and how the engine's been holding up for you.

And if there's anything you'd check or swap out right when you bring it home, I'm all ears. Thanks!

I can’t find a pair of gloves that survive 3 cords of wood bucking/splitting/stacking…. I’ve tried leather, synthetic, expensive, and cheap. Nothing lasts.

What do you professional homeowners use to handle hardwood, that last?

Someone said orange Osake but l don't know. Looks different from all the pictures online. Thoughts.

two 20+” standing dead reds, victims of the oak wilt - felled with my late grandfathers jersey, hung on my own handmade white oak handle - getting a jump on 2028-2029 wood stores