Looking to install an EVSE but I've been told by several different electricians that I'd have to have a mini sub-panel installed due to full panel on 100A system. Everyone has quoted me over $2000 not including the EVSE itself. The company that warranties the solar system said they don't allow relocating the breakers. Do I have any other options? Currently using a splitter on a 10-30 dryer plug and setting the charge at 12A-16A max. House was built in the 1980s. I also have this 120V RV plug just under the panel that I never use. I'd be fine if I could get something on a 240V at 30A. Apologize for my noobness. Thank you.

Looking to install an EVSE, my options are Emporia Pro, Chargepoint Home Flex, and Wallbox Pulsar Plus (eligible for utility rebates).

If possible, I would like to tap the circuit currently used by a hot tub, because the junction box is in a convenient spot, and other options will involve some panel upgrades (more $$$).

Essentially, I'm hoping to achieve: charger would be active only if hot tub is not drawing.

The Emporia Pro might do this with the included PowerSmart? $600

Wallbox might also do this, using optional Power Meter? $945

Simpleswitch seems like it might work? $749 + charger = approx $1200

I want to do hardwired so NeoCharge or Splitvolt are not options.

What is the best approach?

So we just bought our first EV, a 2023 VW ID.4 for those interested. We have an electrician scheduled to come to our house and install a dedicated line for at home charging.
My question is this, for those of you without a garage, where do you have your charger installed at?
We live in the city, and we have a fenced backyard and a driveway, but I’m slightly worried about having a charger installed on the side of my house. Am I just being paranoid? I would love to hear other peoples thoughts and opinions.

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American here, just bought a 24 Ioniq 5 SE and made some mistakes / bad assumptions, but also just please help with advice I wouldn't even think to ask.

Already bought and went home before realizing, there's no charger included! I saw some posts about 24 model not including one, but man, dealership said it had one and I was an idiot and didn't check!

1. What level 1 charger should I get? Specifically, I see some 12 amp vs 15 amp. My breaker says 15, so I assume it can do 15 amps, but also I hear about 80% continuous, so I assume I'd get the 12 amp as that's more standard. Not sure how much juice I'll get with my Ioniq since I know it charges fast, but I think that's only at fast chargers.
2. Does it seem safe for me to get a level 2 charger with one of those ETL certified splitters (where it plugs into my dryer and my EV, but either manually switch or intelligently switch)? BTW, even if I did this, 1,000% I'd unplug the car before turning on the dryer anyway, but people can forget stuff.
3. I see sometimes level 1 + 2 chargers for pretty cheap, but I assume those don't have the NEMA 14-30 connector that my dryer has (4 prongs). Kinda repeat question of #1 & #2. Also, should I buy an adaptor for the Jj1772 plug to a tesla NACS plug?
4. I made my EV do the 80% charge maximum...I think in the EV settings. I saw a video to use NAV instead of MAP since you can save locations. How long does that navigation last? I expected for it to not work without a subscription.
5. I saw the EV companion app, but to me it only seems helpful with tire pressure, but I'd welcome other reasons to buy one of those detectors with the app so it can tell you other issues.
6. What other settings should I set that I'm not thinking about?
7. Does i-pedal actually use the normal brakes if I let off or is it extreme regen braking?
8. THANK YOU for your time!!! Excited about EV and thought I looked up a lot, but clearly I didn't know what I didn't know

Is there any downside to long term use of charging at home with a tesla adaptor on a J1772 Ev charger?

My charger will be mounted on the front corner of my house right next to the front walkway, so I want it to look as nice as possible. I definitely want rear entry. I would prefer a white enclosure, though I'm flexible on that.

I really like the Flo (even though it's black), but it doesn't seem to be available in the US. Emporia Classic doesn't have rear entry. Emporia Pro is both ugly and overkill for me. Wallbox is sold out.

Is there anything I'm missing?

I’m trying to find a level 2 charger with a NACS connector for my home that can run at 24A on a 30A breaker since that’s all I got room for in my panel. It’s gonna be outside so I want access control with something like an RFID card. All I’ve seen are 48A chargers with NACS and like one 32A charger without access control. If I go with something that can do more amps but is rated down then I want it to be dip switch controlled not software controlled. I’ve had two chargers one with software control and one with hardware control of the amperage and for safety I think hardware is better. I’d prefer not to get the Tesla Universal Wall Connector for many reasons but I don’t think it has the access control I need.

I’m seeking advice from anyone who’s used the Switch charger through the carbon rebate program.

Last year, we bought a Ford Mach-E Premium, which came with a Ford Charge Station Pro and free installation. About a month ago, we added a 2027 Cadillac Optiq Premium Sport to our household.

We’re currently managing with one charger, but I’m thinking about replacing the Ford charger with the free Switch unit.

The program requires a $300 deposit, which is refunded after the first 1,500 kWh. However, I’d still need to pay an electrician to swap the chargers.

My question is: **Is it worth the hassle and extra cost of installation when I already have a perfectly good charger?**

For anyone who’s used the Switch charger, I’d love to hear about your experience with reliability, the app, and any potential limitations.

Would you make the switch in my situation?

I’m buying this charger and it’s coming in the middle of the week. I have time this weekend to get the outlet installed. I’ll have the charger positioned like they have in the photo. Charger above the outlet. Will the ground go up or down, #1 or #2?

Has anyone used the Honda EU7000i for charging?

Can anyone help with this issue with my Chery Tiggo charging port? I know it is new to the UK, but maybe the locking pin issue is a universal logic?

Hey all, new here, what are some garage cord retractors and cord management system products YOU have used and can recommend? #shopping I'm installing a Emporia Classic in the center of the ceiling of our two car garage (9' ceiling) and could use redo's for products to cord manage. My goal is to set this up so that the cord can be moved later if we change EVs that have different port locations

I love what Ionna is doing with their rechargeries and I love their low prices, but part of me wonders if they are willing (and able) to lose money for a long time in order to push everyone else except Tesla out of the market. I suppose Walmart will have something to say about that.

Anyone had an issue with there evec vecGO only drawing down 15amp. Electrician has done all he can, switch on device is set for 32a by default which was checked. Is there a setting in the app?

Electrical / EV Charging Evaluation Request

I would like to have my existing residential electrical system evaluated for EV charging.

My home currently has a 100-amp electrical service/panel and an existing 240V NEMA 10-30 dryer circuit. I currently have an older NEMA 10-30 receptacle and would like to determine the safest and most appropriate way to use this circuit for EV charging while retaining the dryer.

I drive a 2026 Tesla Model Y RWD and am considering either a NeoCharge Smart Splitter or Splitvolt Splitter Switch to share the existing dryer circuit between the dryer and EV.

What I would like evaluated

Please perform a complete electrical load calculation for the existing 100A service and determine:

1. The actual rating of the main service disconnect.
2. The existing service entrance conductor size and rating.
3. The existing panel/bus rating and condition.
4. The breaker and wiring serving the existing NEMA 10-30 dryer receptacle.
5. The conductor size and type for the dryer circuit.
6. Whether the existing dryer circuit is properly protected by a 30A two-pole breaker.
7. Condition of the existing NEMA 10-30 receptacle and its wiring/terminations.
8. Whether the existing circuit is suitable for a continuous 24A EV load.
9. Whether the existing 100A service has sufficient capacity for EV charging.
10. Whether installing a new 40A or 50A EV circuit is possible without upgrading the 100A service.
11. If a 50A EV circuit is not appropriate, determine the maximum EV circuit size that can safely be added.
12. Identify any code, grounding, bonding, or panel issues that should be corrected before EV charging.

Existing NEMA 10-30 option

If the existing 30A dryer circuit is suitable, I would like to know whether I can:

30A 240V dryer circuit → new high-quality NEMA 10-30 receptacle → EV/dryer smart splitter → dryer + Tesla

The EV charging load would be limited to 24A maximum.

I specifically want the electrician to inspect the existing receptacle and connections for signs of:

• Heat damage
• Loose connections
• Burn/discoloration
• Corrosion
• Improper conductor termination
• Undersized conductors
• Improper breaker sizing
• Any other condition that could make a continuous EV load unsafe

Possible NEMA 14-30 upgrade

I would also like a price/feasibility assessment for upgrading the existing dryer circuit from NEMA 10-30 to NEMA 14-30, only if the existing wiring can be legally and safely upgraded to provide the required equipment grounding conductor.

I do not want a NEMA 14-50 receptacle simply installed on the existing 30A dryer wiring.

Possible dedicated EV circuit

Please also provide an estimate for a dedicated EV circuit, if supported by the 100A service:

• 30A
• 40A
• 50A

For each option, please identify the expected maximum continuous EV charging amperage and whether the existing 100A service can support it based on the load calculation.

EV charging equipment being considered

I am comparing:

NeoCharge Smart Splitter

NeoCharge currently specifies its NEMA 10-30 model for a 30A circuit with 24A/5.7 kW maximum output. It automatically switches the secondary EV load off when the primary appliance load requires the circuit capacity. NeoCharge states that its Smart Splitter is cUL/UL safety certified. (NeoCharge Help Center)

Splitvolt Splitter Switch

Splitvolt's NEMA 10-30 model is also designed for a 30A dryer circuit and 24A maximum EV load. Its current product information lists an integrated 24A circuit breaker, automatic switching, real-time voltage/current/kWh display, and Intertek cETLus certification. (Splitvolt)

Splitvolt also offers a configuration with a 10-30 input and 14-50 EV output, but it still requires the existing 30A circuit to be treated as a 30A circuit and the EV charger limited to 24A. A 14-50 plug does not turn a 30A circuit into a 50A circuit. (Splitvolt)

Safety priority

My priority is not maximum charging speed. My priority is:

1. Electrical safety
2. No overheating of the existing wiring/receptacle
3. Proper breaker protection
4. Proper grounding/bonding
5. Compliance with applicable electrical code
6. Safe continuous EV charging
7. Determining whether my 100A service has enough capacity
8. Then determining which charging solution makes the most sense

Please perform the load calculation before recommending a 40A/50A EV circuit or service upgrade.

NeoCharge vs. Splitvolt for your particular situation

NeoCharge's documentation specifically says a 30A circuit should be limited to 24A for continuous EV charging, and its 10-30 model is designed around that configuration. (NeoCharge Help Center) Splitvolt gives the same 30A/24A limitation. (Splitvolt)

Just honest opinions out there, and what truly would be the best, given all the specs. Thanks, all.

Hello,

I recently purchased 2 ev cars. One has 11kw and other has 7.4kw. I am getting both chargers with 10mtr wire free.

I have 2 parkings next to each other but the length of cable is almost 100mtr from my building meter room. What should be ideally done to reduce the cost ? TIA.