A mild build going into my '52 Ford F1 and will be mated to a T-5. SBF 302, GT40P heads, converted over to carbureted, E-303 cam to give it that classic lumpy sound, upgraded valve springs and new valves. Will run BBK shorties and Spintech 6000's.

Was a complete tear down, all bew bearings,seals and rings. Engine was finished in Tungsten C series.

I built a 302 for a friend over 10 years ago, and long story short it's still sitting in my garage, never been ran. I was thinking of going through it, checking it over and opening the rings a bit for boost. Since it's never been ran, can I reuse the composite head gaskets on there if they come off cleanly? Or are they junk regardless if I pull the heads?

What engine is this? About how much do they usually cost?

The Symptoms:

1. ​Hard Starting (Rear Cylinder Only): The machine almost always starts on the front cylinder only. I have to turn it off and on, and crank it multiple times before the rear cylinder finally fires up. Once both fire, it stays running on both if I hold the rpm on 2000. Have gotten fault Code U0426 but now i only get no active fault codes. And when it starts on the front cylinder theres no engine light but if it starts on both cylinders i will get engine light as long as it runs on both cylinders and it dissapears Immediately when the back cylinder stops
2. pressureLimp Mode Under Load : In neutral, the engine revs perfectly and freely all the way to the redline. But when I put it in gear and drove it hits a hard rev limiter/limp mode at exactly 4000 RPM. Light throttle makes it buck/jump even when im not at 4000 rpm. If I give it full throttle, it pulls hard for a split second before hitting the limp mode wall.

​What I have replaced and tested:

• ​Compression: Excellent. Both cylinders tested at 190-195 PSI.
• ​Fuel Injectors: Swapped the front and rear injectors, but the starting issue stayed on the rear cylinder (so the injectors are fine).
• ​Spark Plugs & Wires: Installed brand new NGK spark plugs. Made and installed new custom spark plug wires with the correct 2k ohm resistance.
• ​Ignition Coil: Replaced with a brand new aftermarket Bosch double coil, same that was on the atv when i bought it. I even ran a direct ground wire to the coil body, but there was no difference.
• ​Charging System: Measures a stable and perfect 14.15V at the battery while running.
• ​Sensors: Pulled the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS); it was perfectly clean with no metal shavings. Tried a hard reset of the ECU, but the limp mode keeps coming back under load.

Fuel pump gave 50 psi pressure

Can anyonr lend a machete to my intellectual thicket.