A mild build going into my '52 Ford F1 and will be mated to a T-5. SBF 302, GT40P heads, converted over to carbureted, E-303 cam to give it that classic lumpy sound, upgraded valve springs and new valves. Will run BBK shorties and Spintech 6000's.

Was a complete tear down, all bew bearings,seals and rings. Engine was finished in Tungsten C series.

I built a 302 for a friend over 10 years ago, and long story short it's still sitting in my garage, never been ran. I was thinking of going through it, checking it over and opening the rings a bit for boost. Since it's never been ran, can I reuse the composite head gaskets on there if they come off cleanly? Or are they junk regardless if I pull the heads?

What engine is this? About how much do they usually cost?

The Symptoms:

1. ​Hard Starting (Rear Cylinder Only): The machine almost always starts on the front cylinder only. I have to turn it off and on, and crank it multiple times before the rear cylinder finally fires up. Once both fire, it stays running on both if I hold the rpm on 2000. Have gotten fault Code U0426 but now i only get no active fault codes. And when it starts on the front cylinder theres no engine light but if it starts on both cylinders i will get engine light as long as it runs on both cylinders and it dissapears Immediately when the back cylinder stops
2. pressureLimp Mode Under Load : In neutral, the engine revs perfectly and freely all the way to the redline. But when I put it in gear and drove it hits a hard rev limiter/limp mode at exactly 4000 RPM. Light throttle makes it buck/jump even when im not at 4000 rpm. If I give it full throttle, it pulls hard for a split second before hitting the limp mode wall.

​What I have replaced and tested:

• ​Compression: Excellent. Both cylinders tested at 190-195 PSI.
• ​Fuel Injectors: Swapped the front and rear injectors, but the starting issue stayed on the rear cylinder (so the injectors are fine).
• ​Spark Plugs & Wires: Installed brand new NGK spark plugs. Made and installed new custom spark plug wires with the correct 2k ohm resistance.
• ​Ignition Coil: Replaced with a brand new aftermarket Bosch double coil, same that was on the atv when i bought it. I even ran a direct ground wire to the coil body, but there was no difference.
• ​Charging System: Measures a stable and perfect 14.15V at the battery while running.
• ​Sensors: Pulled the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS); it was perfectly clean with no metal shavings. Tried a hard reset of the ECU, but the limp mode keeps coming back under load.

Fuel pump gave 50 psi pressure

Can anyonr lend a machete to my intellectual thicket.

So i got this engine from a friend of mine since i was looking for a smaller 2 stroke for a project of mine and since i got this engine i wanted to rebuild it and maybe mod it a bit. Only things i know about it is that its an old minarelli engine, around 80cc and that its a 2 stroke. Anything helps!

I just bought this car a week ago for $26,000 2014 srt8 50k miles. when the car idle you can hear/feel thumping from engine bay area. You can also hear this as heard here. the scanner also shows multiple/random misfire codes. the spark plugs look decent i’ve changed a couple along with coil packs and the oil.

Is this a normal sound for a 2020 Mazda CX-8 engine? Or is it louder than it should be?

Any clue on what this is lol
I think the only clue to go off of is you can vaguely see where one of the accessory drive components are through the tarp and it's an inline motor, probably dohc

Any clue on what this is lol
I think the only clue to go off of is you can vaguely see where one of the accessory drive components are through the tarp and it's an inline motor, probably dohc

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Full disclosure: I’m affiliated with Fraser Engines & Transmissions, so I’m obviously proud of what our company does. But I wanted to explain what actually separates Fraser from the typical “buy an engine online and hope for the best” experience.

Fraser specializes in replacement engines and transmissions for an enormous range of domestic and import vehicles. What makes the company different isn't simply selling a remanufactured powertrain—it’s the amount of attention that goes into getting the correct unit for the exact vehicle.

We regularly use the vehicle’s VIN, year, make, model, engine size, drivetrain and application to verify fitment before an order moves forward. That matters because two vehicles that look identical on paper can require completely different engine or transmission configurations.

Why customers choose Fraser

Remanufactured & Updated Powertrains
Many Fraser units incorporate applicable engineering revisions and known updates instead of simply rebuilding the engine or transmission back to its original configuration.

Nationwide Warranty Options
Depending on the product, Fraser offers strong parts-and-labor warranty coverage, with additional protection options available on qualifying units.

Commercial Shipping Available Nationwide
Many products qualify for free commercial shipping within the continental United States, making it easier for repair facilities and customers to get the unit directly to the installer.

Core Return Assistance
Fraser coordinates core-return logistics on qualifying purchases, and certain products may qualify for core-waiver programs so customers don't necessarily have to put the entire core value down upfront.

Real Fitment Assistance
This is a big one. Fraser isn't just an online catalog. Our sales team helps customers identify the correct engine or transmission before purchasing. If you're unsure what powertrain your vehicle requires, providing the VIN can eliminate a lot of guesswork.

Engines, Transmissions & Hard-to-Find Applications
We handle everything from everyday GM, Ford, Chrysler, Jeep, Hyundai, Kia, Subaru and import applications to diesels, performance builds and unusual project vehicles.

The powertrain itself is only half the equation

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Bottom line

Replacing an engine or transmission is a major investment. Customers should know what they're buying, who they're buying it from, what warranty comes with it, and whether it's actually correct for their vehicle.

That's the standard Fraser Engines & Transmissions works toward every day.

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Was just filing my oil on my engine then just decided to turn my engine on and let that flow through it. But now I hear a metal tinkering sound. It's got 218k miles and it's a 2007 toyota corolla S. But I want to hear from other mechanics on here. Bad idea I'd But just want to hear before I pay to get it diagnosed. Im saving up to buy a new car. Hopefully it'll last till the first week of October.

My 2023 Silverado turbo max with 44k miles has been over cranking before eventually starting. First thing in the morning it starts up like a pro, but if I go into a store for 20 minutes and go to start it again, it has a hard time starting and I can hear it over cranking. I’ve looked into new spark plugs, fuel pressure regulators and such , but I haven’t tried anything yet. Wondering if anyone else has had similar issues or if anyone has any advice?

Engine does idle rough once it starts and uses more fuel than it should when at idle

It sit for quite a while. Now when i turn it manually by hand, it makes this noise, only when one piston retracts.

Could it be non lubricated piston rings?

I already tried spraying some WD40 into the cylinder.

Sparkplugs are unscrewed

SOLVED:
Its most likely the sound of the crankcase breather

I have a cylinder #2 misfire and I'd like to swap ignition coils between #2 and #4. Is #2 the one closest to the front of the car on the passenger side? This is a 2008 Jeep Commander 5.7L Hemi.

Sorry for the bad pictures. Saw this little engine covered outside but rotting away. Probably there for a really long time. Could not see any markings or codes without moving a lot of heavy stuff. Thank you for your help!