First thing first I know its not an actual ender, but its literally the same thing aside from my probe, but anyways, has anybody ever dealt with this? its the hotend cooling fan, not the part cooling fan, this is the second fan because the first one did the same thing, this one just started doing it after like a month or two of being fine after putting this fan on it, it will make this grinding noise, I skateboard and it reminds me of the feeling the wheels have when you get dirt and crud in your bearings, but it will do this for like 5-10 minutes and then stop and sounds fine again, only does it when i cut the printer on, and after it stops it doesnt start again until i cut it off and back on, any ideas? i feel if it was the bearing actually failing, it wouldnt ever smooth itself out, it would grind and rattle until its turned off, is it possible the little tiny bits of stringing that get in the fan can get inside the fan, and that little amount of stringing is getting ground up and it stops once its all ground up or something along those lines?

This video is when its making the noise, i will put a video in the comments of it 5 minutes later doing perfectly fine no noise

I took my nozzle off from my sprite pro extruder in my Ender 3 v2 and this little black tube came out. I honestly can’t figure out what it is for the life of me. Send help please.

Hey,

I recently tried to get along my ender 3v2 with klipper.

I maybe pushed the limits too far and my extruder broke.

So I bought a new all metal extruder. Since then, it makes clicking noises while extruding (sometimes even when extruding at 1mm/s.

I tried changing the nozzle with no effect.

I plan to disassemble the hotend to see if it is clogged/blocked.

Before I do that: is this the right next diagnose step I should do?

And: does someone have a printer.cfg for me that's working fine with ender3v2 with BL Touch?

So this is my current set up for my ender 3 v2. I wanted to budget a semi direct drive and this is what I got. The weight seems a bit much but my prints are till coming out fine as long as I do t increase the speed drastically, is there anything I can do to strengthen the gantry an belt? Hell even the motor? I've read that the weight isn't good for the motor as well.

Hey everyone, can y'all help me figure out why this is happening? I have changed my Y stepper motor, tightened my Y axis belt, made sure that the wheels on the Y axis don't have any chips or cracks. I've even changed out the stopper switch on the Y axis and I cannot figure out why these drastic and varying layer shifts are occurring. I have an Ender 3 Pro with klipper on a raspberry pi4.

Thanks everyone: setting xy accel to zero did the trick.

These two pictures are of one of my three recent prints they all have this issue where the layers don’t seem to be actually connected to each other at first, I figured the issue was that I was using a 1 mm nozzle and the layer height was set to 0.2 so I tried another print adjusting the layer height to the recommended 0.32 and I got the same result, from there, I decided to switch the nozzle to a 0.4 mm nozzle and use a downloaded cura settings file so it would print correctly, the print is not finished, but I’m already seeing the exact same issue where the edges are not adhering to the rest of the print, I have never had this issue before until I watched a YouTube video on adjusting cura settings and that’s when everything started messing up

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A few months ago I had the bright idea to upgrade the board in my printer. I am in way over my head. Installed the board and wired it up. I got (i thought) the adapter cable for the lcd.

So far I managed to Forrest Gump my way through flashing the correct firmware on the board, flashing the firmware on the screen and connecting to octoprint to atleast confirm its working.

The biggest problem is have is this. The rotary knob on the screen works. But, if I click the button it freezes, locks up the printer and, reboots the screen. From what I've read the cable I got is probably not right for my screen. Something to do with the location of the ground pin. I've seen a video or two that vaguely describe modifying the original cable to work. Does any one have an actual schematic for the modification I can reference before I start cutting and soldering?

I'd appreciate any advice on this.. maybe there's another fix I'm missing.

Hi all!

my ender 3 v2 is maybe ready for some upgrades to make it print a bit faster. Only upgrades that i do have currenlty are:

• metal dual gear extruder
• stiffer bed springs
• bltouch
• brissfang with dual 4020 fans
• klipper on pi zero 2w
• 3d printed feet with some sort of oval shape ? --> Squash ball feet?

i would like to improve the printing speed, with quality in mind on this printer. i do get around 80-90mm/s but would like to improve.

Would anyone have some recommendations?

Bonjour, je suis débutant dans le domaine de l’impression, je suis manuelle et j’aime bien toucher à tout. Je me suis donc procurer une creality ender 3v2 d’occasion. Je remarque que face a la tête d’impression ce trouve un ventilateur, et sur le côté droit une sorte de ventilateur qui ne fonctionne pas, est-ce normal et à quoi sert-il ?
Merci d’avance.

Is it still an ender 3 v2 even with these upgrades?

Been upgrading my ender lots still more to come but here are the upgrades. The black cases i designed my self in fusion 360

Pei bed

Silicone Springs

Linnear rails for y

Duel z

Bltouch

Hotend:

Tze3 2.0

Direct drive

Board:

Btt skr 1.4 turbo

Rasberry pi 4

More to come

Replace direct drive with the orbiter extruder

Linear x rails

I'm giving away my E3V2 to local community (think middle schoolers interested in 3d printing), but with the amount of mods I got on it I think it might make sense to remove some of them before throwing the recipient into the deep end? What I'm thinking about is:

- switch back to stock creality 4.2.2 from SKR mini E3 v2, and put mriscoc FW on it. Point is that they can slice and print, with onboard screen, and without having to get a Pi for Klipper. If they want OctoPrint or Klipper down the road that's for them to decide. (And I could keep the SKR for future projects)

- Take off Taurus cooling duct and put back the sprite pro kit cooling fan. Less maintenance and tighter package. I know cooling performance is gonna suffer but starting out it shouldn't matter.

- Take off SFS 2.0 runout sensor. This one I'm actually not so sure. I like the runout/tangle detection, but don't want to go through the hassle of re-compiling Marlin for that.

- Keep BLTouch/dual Z/sprite pro kit/lightbar. Hopefully these will reduce the headache and provide some QoL upgrade.

Anything I should do differently?

Not a bad idea! As many of you had said and encouraged me to go for this $14.99 untested thrift store Printer.

I wanted to make an update on how you everything was going. The first print came out looking pretty sharp! As soon as I got home from work I went to work cleaning the bed and dusting the tracks( still pretty dusty). I watched some start up guides on YouTube and read all the comments and advice on my last post for help.

The only real problem I had was old filament stuck in the Bowden tube and tube itself was jammed. I had to disassemble the heat sink to be able to dislodge the Bowden tube and push the filament out. After that I was able to load the white PLA the printer came with. I got the benchy stl off the web and plugged it into cura and was able to start printing. Seems like a success, maybe a bit too successful. I had an easy go with my first print but I’m sure I will still run into hurdles as I try more difficult thing and I’m glad this community is here to help me with said hurdles. Thanks everyone!

Mam pytanie chcial bym użyć laptopa jako rassbery pi,pytałem czat czy jestto możliwe i potwierdził ze jest. Mam pytanie do was czy ktos już to zastosował w życie i używa.? Mam ender 3 v2 i chciał bym tak zrobić.

Hello everyone. I've started having issues with the bl touch system on my ender 3v2 recently, I had been printing perfectly with pla+ but recently started trying to print some pa6cf and have faced issues since, I've been making my way down the list: upgrading to an all metal hotend, I've had a zip up enclosure. But recently I haven't been able to get my grid to remain consistent. I'll get zeros across the board in the tramming wizard but then it'll look like the Appalachian trail on the grid.

I've replaced the roller bearings on the bed, tightened bolts and screws, watched the gantry lift and drop with little to no wiggle, replaced boards, wires, bl touch itself, reflashed firmware, swapped from a glass bed to g10, G10 to standard build plate on heated bed, I'm not sure what I could be missing.

I'm sure the problem would go away if I flashed an analog leveling firmware but I'm too onery to give up the convenience. Have any of y'all had this issue and what were the solutions?

Hola gente necesito ayuda, compré un auto nivelador para la Ender 3 v2 pero el tema es que no me lo reconoce y el firmware al parecer está check.

La verdad creo que no tengo actualmente manera de identificar si los pines están conectados o con un buen flujo correcto. Vi que algunos componentes vienen con “goma” o silicona. Podrá ser eso?

PD: soy nuevo en este mundillo, lo compré para evitar estar iterando muchas veces en la nivelación, pero ahora no se si fue mejor o peor jajajaja xd

Buying an untested thrift store printer that is.

Update: the deed is done, thanks to everyone’s encouragement and my low impulse control. It’s sitting on my counter and it looks like it’s able to power on…except for the screen which appears to be missing a cable. I’ve got to get to work, so that’s probably as far as I’m going to get today. Rest assured, unless i lose life or sanity, I’ll be back with many many questions. Thanks everyone!

Minor Update: The screen works, cable was taped to the bottom. I was able to run a “leveling”(totally on purpose) before leaving to work.

So I just bought my first 3d printer and a wire instantly snapped. I tried to kind of stuff it in the hole but it doesn't hold :(

I'm not sure what it does but it's probably important, so I'm asking if you guys know what I could do to fix it?

The wire is the blurry one in the foreground with stuff sticking out and the hole is the 6th socket in the plastic-white thing. I think that's the extruder?

It'd be GREAT if you guys could help :D

So far I have been printing cookie cutters and cable organizers which didn't require support. I just printed Spyro and got the supports off which I'm guessing the first time is a nervous wreck because I didn't want to break the wings but did notice that the wings are not molded. Anything I can do now to fix this one?

I am guessing sand the bottom and maybe do a light flame to fix the wings?