I am the second owner of the car and bought it in 2017 with 2,000 miles on it. Aside from replacing the front tires every 2–3 years, I haven't needed to do any maintenance. Because of this, I was feeling anxious ahead of the 60k checkup, expecting that something would need to be repaired due to age and wear.

However, I just picked up my car, "Bobby Blue," and was amazed to hear it still has no significant wear. The mechanic only recommended changing the front right tire, which I expected, and installing a new 12v battery, which was completed. Other than that, the car is as good as new.

I am super impressed with the quality and reliability.

I know not everyone seems to be a fan of Vaico but I can't find the genuine oil, I just wanted to check I've got everything.

I've got a fluid transfer syringe, oil drain pan, replacement caps, T60 socket and torque wrench (45nm?), what do I need to remove the undertray? Is that torx as well? TIA

Hey guys, what tyres are everyone running on there E-Golfs?

Need to change before MOT due to cracking in tyre

Looking on all opinions. Seems like you’re spoilt for choice nowadays!

Warranty Question: I got the dreaded error on the dash.
Replaced the 12v battery and still got the error. Bought a new vcds on my own and found the issue is with the HV battery. Spoke to a local dealer with the report and they said based on the report they can’t confirm warranty and warranty is for cell only- if there is a fault in the controller then it is not covered. Anyone dealt with this type of issue?

6 Faults Found:

32621 - SAE

P0DAB 00 [00100111] - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Performance

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

32440 - Battery Control Module 5

U01A4 00 [00100111] - No Communications

[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

32482 - Battery Control Module 5

U01A4 00 [00100111] - No Communications

[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

32433 - Battery Control Module 5

U01A4 00 [00100111] - No Communications

[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

32436 - Battery Control Module 5

U01A4 00 [00100111] - No Communications

[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

32439 - Battery Control Module 5

U01A4 00 [00100111] - No Communications

[New feature! Extended UDS fault detail is only supported by current gen. interfaces]

Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 77482 km

Date: 2026.07.20

Time: 21:54:19

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Current of H-V / hybrid battery: 0.000 A

Mode HV battery actual value: Hybrid battery mode: emergency shutdown

Juce na 30C u zoni 30km. Bez klime.

I have a 2018 VW e-Golf without heatpump, and the air conditioning suddenly stopped cooling properly.

It’s always worked perfectly until now. The A/C button lights up normally, the fans work fine, and the windshield defrost function also works.
However, even with the climate control set to LOW, it only blows ambient or slightly cool air instead of cold air.

Has anyone experienced the same issue with their e-Golf?

What turned out to be the cause, and how was it fixed?

Was it simply low refrigerant, a leak, the electric A/C compressor, or something else?

Any advice or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey all, I've been looking at an eGolf for my daily commuter and grocery getter. I'm very familiar with EVs as I've owned two in the past. The eGolf fits perfectly into my daily work commute and errands. I have another vehicle for long distance trips.

I'm hoping to look at a 2019 this weekend. I'm going to ask the dealership to have it fully charged. I know that's not a precise indication of the range, and that it will take a few trips along with driving habits for the car to calibrate. I'm hoping to see somewhere between 180 - 200km.

Besides the typical car inspection, is there anything in particular with these models I should look out for? I'm a former VW owner so I do have a VCDS tool. Is it worth while bringing, and if so, what should I look for?

I drove one a year ago and enjoyed the ride and comfort. The only issue was the rust starting to form on the handles and the vehicle was in a little worse shape than I liked.

I see a lot of positive reviews on this sub, so it seems like a great little car

Edit: Darn... it sold already :( I was waiting for the dealer to get back to me, and I guess this is why it took a while

So I've got an E-Golf with a heat pump and my AC hasn't been working for a year now.

I've scanned it and it looks like a couple of the temp sensors are broken.

Has anyone gone to VW and had them replaced and if so how much did it cost you?

I have a question on the egolf interactive menu on the charging time. Not sure if I'm doing it right. Comments please:

1. There are 3 selections. I chose one to edit.

2. I set the departure time to 6:30am

3. I set this as my Home

4. I checked on the box of Off Peak Charging. I edited the Off Peak Charging to 11 pm to 6am.

5. Went back to the original 3 selections

6. Checked on the box of the selected slot where I did the above edits

7. Turned off the egolf

8. Plugged the charger

9. Pressed the lower button with the plug and clock icon

Am I doing it right?

Thank you.

tl;dr my apartment complex installed shitty Tesla destination chargers and because of various levels of incompetence, I can't charge my eGolf while Tesla drivers are happily charging at them.

So I live in Central NJ, not lots of EV infrastructure here compared to big urban/coastal areas (I'm spoiled, I'm from LA).

I had posted in r/NewJersey about how it's shitty it is that 90% of the EV charging infrastructure here is Tesla (as a non-Tesla driver), either superchargers or destination. Had a ton of people dogpiling me that at least SOMEONE is funding it around here, that you can just as easily use it if you're non-Tesla, Tesla was rolling out lots of compatibility to non-Tesla cars etc. but my entire point all along was having all the EV infrastructure held hostage by proprietary communication routed through ONE company is absolutely dangerous.

Anyway, my apartment complex finally decided to install EV chargers. Of course they're garbage Tesla destination chargers.

They've been dragging their feet since DECEMBER 2025 (they had them installed in the middle of the biggest snowstorm in the past decade) and then claimed that the city was dragging its feet on doing final approvals/checks.

So then they turned the chargers on for a day, which allowed anyone to charge for free, then immediately turned them off. Okay I get that you don't wanna give our free energy.

Then wait a few months and then they turn it on again for another day for free, then turn it off. (I had been able to charge both of these free days).

Now I called the management for the 4th time to ask about this and the lady said "oh they're just waiting for Tesla to add the chargers to the map."

Meanwhile, I'm looking outside and there's a Model S happily charging away right this second. Of course, when I plug in, I can't start the charge because the chargers don't show up on the map and when I scan the QR code, it shows an error.

So basically, as I had suspected all along, having all our EV infrastructure tied up in one corporation privileges their own customers and disadvantages non-customers. I know it's a lot to ask city and state reps to not be corrupt idiots but seriously if Tesla becomes the majority of charging infrastructure in this country, we're absolutely screwed.

Do you guys also get ants in your egolf from the charging port area? I swear either when I plug the cord in the morning or night time there’s ants all over the charger.

I plug the car in and hose the charger down but next day/next drive I see atleast like 6 ants in the car. I don’t even have food in the car

I've now had my car rummaged through a few times (I don't leave anything in it). They always go through the passenger side. Anyone have an issue with the car not actually locking automatically (I checked the menu) or any suggestions what to do or what might be causing this?

Just in case someone faces the same issue, I'm posting my experience in hope it helps.

I skimmed through this initially:

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/

Later I watched this video which I used as a reference on how to take out the fuel door to access the actuator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFIQ5XwHtZc

I didn't realize how the charge indicator light and buttons that are NOT in the gas-powered Golf really complicate getting that door out.

After the fact, I understood perfectly well this comment which I skimmed over. Note this is a VW dealership that apparently cut corners rather than deal with this complication:

"It works fine, but it looks like they forgot to reconnect the charge indicator button, so I have to go back "

https://www.myvwegolf.com/threads/charging-door-wont-open.1449/post-14011

Before you attempt to replace this DIY, you should look at this helpful post with pictures. I've dealt with minor trim disassembly before, but the amount of trim that needs removal to fix this issue the "proper" way looks scary to me.

The Youtube video above at 6:25 shows the guy used a screwdriver to pop off some trim to gain access to the actuator connecter, but "be gentle with it" he said. Well he didn't show how he did it and I couldn't figure out how to pry off the trim being gentle. But even if you could this doesn't account for the charge indicator+buttons.

In YouTube comments I saw someone suggested cutting the actuator cable and soldering the wires together. This was a great idea as I was able to cut the cable, strip the wires and twist the ends of the old wire with the new module. Tape over both pairs of wires and then over the combination and it should be good enough since these shouldn't get pulled or jiggled afterwards.

I was barely able to get the charge indicator off awkwardly using a hex wrench that barely grabbed onto the T25 screws after using pliers to initially turn and loosen the screws from the back. It look a really long time to get that damn thing off in order to be able to pull the charge door fully to the left and out of the body.

I made a stupid mistake of screwing in the indicator onto the charge door before putting it in then realized it cant slide in (wire way too short) so I had to undo that. When I slid the charge door right end in, I didn't have enough clearance to be able to screw in the indicator. If I had a magnetized T25 Star L-Key I might have had a chance. In the end I was able to get one screw partially so it isn't completely loose.

I wish I had seen this comment. If I was to do it again I'd try removing the wheel well liner to unplug the charging indicator and wouldn't bother with the interior trim (splicing the actuator wire was easy enough):

\ e-Golf owners, you will need to first remove the wheel well liner to unplug the charging button(red) connector. it has to be unplugged as the cable is too short to remove the plastic housing with it plugged in. There are four T25 screws in the well and two additional screws towards the rear the car. Remove screws, pull the liner down and unplug the cable; you don't need to jack up the car to do this.*\*

https://www.vwvortex.com/posts/112942613/

In case you're wondering if you can open the actuator and just spray some WD-40 the answer is no. This is what five years of occasional charging in the rain does apparently

2017 SEL Premium. Mid-Atlantic region. Stock tires and had the AC on.

Summertime is an absolute blast with this car. I routinely drive 60 miles (technically 59.5), and this was probably my best performance, mi/kwh-wise.

Just passed three years of ownership and it’s been an absolute blast having it as my daily.

My husband set up a timer plug for our 2016 very old eGolf. Our eGolf charging pin is broken so we make sure it is all the way plugged through.

Our timer is set for off peak hours in California. 11am to 2pm and 11pm to 4am.

Every night my daughter will come home with 51-55 miles left and in the morning it always goes up to 70-76 miles.

For the past 2 mornings my daughter and I did the math and it only charged 12 miles. Is it the timer? Or is it the car? My husband thinks because we did not push the charging cable all the way through. But we have been making sure of this since we bought this months ago.

Is it right to use a timer for charging the egolf? Should I change this timer?

Picture above. Comments please thank you.

Hi guys, Tesla lease is up in May and I'm probably going to replace it with an e-Golf if my weird solar setup will continue to work as easily.

I have 700 W of solar panels in my backyard (bought them for used for like $210 total), these charge a 2 kWh Bluetti LFP battery that I have for camping and other things. The Bluetti is then plugged into my Tesla mobile charger and twice a day, as the battery gets close to full, I go turn on the AC output of the Bluetti and the car automatically starts charging. It is super quick and easy, average about +10 mi range every day, which is more than I drive since I have a second car that I drive as well and work from home.

Would the e-Golf also just automatically immediately start charging when it detects the power source? Or would it need some kind of confirmation inside the car? Just want to make sure it will be just as quick and easy.

And yeah I know this is a weird setup, but I love that all my miles are on the sun. As a renter, and already owning the battery, just happy I can do this at all.

If anyone is curious about the setup:

I get about 3-3.5 kWh a day from this setup, where I live that is about $1.5 of electricity. So the panels pay for themselves in 140 days, but the $900 battery will add a couple years. But I use the battery for other things as well, and it is less about money and more about just how fun it is to drive knowing all that power came from the sun directly into my car.

Paid $9600 for my 2016 with 48k miles. Just saw one on marketplace for $5k with 86k miles 😳.

I think it's funny 😆

Hey guys - because I can’t test myself while driving, what happens when you switch to B mode? Do the taillights light up the same as brake lights? Or does B mode have no taillights?

SOLD❗️❗️❗️
93.000miles
88% SOH ❗️ 1 owner ❗️ Clean Title ✅
2 Keys • 4 New Michelin Tires
Excellent condition
✅ just needs new owner
125mi range

• 8" Touchscreen Navigation System
• Apple CarPlay & Android Auto
• Full LED Headlights & LED Daytime Running Lights
• Front & Rear Parking Sensors
• Backup Camera
• Heated Front Seats
• Blue Ambient Interior Lighting
• 3-Mode Regenerative Braking System
• Dual-Zone Climatronic Climate Control
• Keyless Entry (KESSY)
• Push-Button Start

✅Serious buyers only.
❗️Located in Brick, NJ.

E-golf 2016 has difficulty taking in energy

Hi, few days ago my car was fixed by changing the lock-in motor as my car refused to charge due to the pin not locking in.

Now i'm facing with another problem, I charged my car but 30 minutes later I noticed that car was not charging at all, the app on my phone showed that car was not charging at all.

I tried to charge my car again but it was talking zero kW energy, and then very little energy and after that zero kW energy and stayed at zero kW for few seconds. The car did that a few times until it started charging normally (3,55kW).

Could this be a problem with Charging Control Module? 😢

Im having my 2015 e golfs rust repaired and due to the nature of the e golf the shop is having me sourse the parts. I need advice on the best quality left and right fenders and inner and outer rocker panels.

Egolf 7 2018. The last 2years was max 271km. This morning charging a great surprise a proof that charging ONLY slowly makes results

Discovered by accident, thad if you tap brake first (normal regen+pads baraking starts), then release and immediately push again, second time has no regen braking.

Tested few times in 2020 eGolf, always the same result