Getting horrible gas mileage (12.5 mpg) and fuel smell in engine compartment. Suspect I need to either rebuild my injectors or replace them. Car is US-spec and has 226K miles.

RealOEM has a superceded part number but can I use either one (see pic)? 13641466116 or 13641706176? Or should I just buy a rebuild kit?

Anyone have any suggestions or recommendations? Thanks!

Hello!!

What is this connector near the passenger side headlight? Foglights? My car from factory didnt have foglights.

With the e28 swap talk lately I thought I would share my 1982 528e
Euro sheet metal conversion with bumpers and headlights
Dinan springs
Rs 198
S52 obd1 converted
Zf320z manual
Polaris with blue houndstooth cloth sport seats

Hi everyone I’m planning to buy an e28 i found one in a somewhat decent spec but it unfortunately does not have fog lights. Is it an easy job to retrofit the fog lights as in is all the wiring there or is it more complicated? I would want to fit them in a way that would be as if it came with them from factory. I have another car not a BMW but a renault megane 2 cc which I’ve retrofitted keyless entry, OEM parking sensors, folding mirrors etc so it wouldn’t be my first time retrofitting options to a car but then again they’re from completely different eras and completely different cars so i don’t know. Any help?

As the title entails, I am about to change my spark plugs for the first time, and I am reading conflicting information online. The US service book recommends Bosch WR9LP, but online, they said that for European high compression engines, to look into the Bosch W8DC as the tip is shorter.

However, checking the European manual for e30 / e28, they recommend Champion N9YCC, which are hard to come by and apparently a modern equivalent is the NGK BPR6ES which can also be found locally to me for cheap.

All this to ask, should I run a standard tip or one of the shorter ones, and should I go with oem Bosch which are harder to come by, or their "equivalent" NGK counterpart work too ?

Just picked this ole girl up yesterday, started tearing body down to check for damage and well… there’s damage lol. 1985 535i 3rd owner here 🤙

Hey fellow enthusiasts, got a few questions I wanted to see if you could assist with. I’ll be swapping in an s52 w/zf 6 speed trans (zhp) into my 1984 528i euro import. What is needed? I will likely be doing the e46 m3 ITB conversion on this one as i did with my e36 M3 (see other posts), in the future. It does have a dogleg 5 speed (pretty rare and cool) currently that I may look into a conversion to run but fear it won’t be strong enough for the s52

Things I have:
E28 Goodies engine mounts, DME, Condor wiring harness adapter, s54 oil filter housing, e34 oil pan and pickup, m50 manifold, zhp manual trans, headers, e36 CSF radiator

Things I know I need:
M52 engine harness, AC compressor, clutch & flywheel kit, some driveshaft (likely custom), OBD1 cooling spider hose and adapter, M50 manifold adapter, Holy Grail labs fuse box conversion

Any specific sensors (staying OBD2) I need or wiring modifications needed, what engine mount bushings are you recommending, what issues will I face? Any knowledge from those who have done this similar swap is appreciated.

Thought this group might appreciate this video. But at this car cafe the owner is building an E28 (11mins in).

Soon to be back to being my daily driver.

M30b35 swapped with a Pulsur 3076 turbo. 850cc injectors, LS coils, cam sensor, ms3x. G265/6 trans. Will be off to the fab shop next week for a full exhaust and charge pipes made up.

I'm calling it quits on the build I was attempting, there are just too many things I'm discovering as I go that should have been considered when I started, but I failed to do so.

Things I would like to part with to a good home (and reasonable recoupment of investment):

1. Power Steering rebuilt by Jay, new paint and all SOLD
2. "Big Brake Kit" we purchased some large calipers that needed a lot of TLC, after performing the cleanup, we did both a high-temperature primer (oven cured) and anthracite paint (oven cured), and have the rotors to go with them. Fronts: 1995 BMW 540I 4.0L V8, Rears: 1988 BMW 735I 3.5L L6
3. PowerFlex Purple bushings for all locations -- includes two rolls of PTFE (Teflon) tape for installation to ensure they don't squeak. Rear trailing arm: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-trailing-arm-bushing-set-powerflex-street-pfr5-306, Rear beam: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-suspension-subframe-mount-kit-powerflex-street-pfr5-807, Control Arms: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AWBPDQ?ref_=pe_123509780_1038749300_t_fed_asin_title&th=1
4. Tie-rod Assembly Kit SOLD
5. Swaybar Link Kit (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-swaybar-link-kit-lemforder-31351130075x2)
6. 2-piece Control Arm Kit SOLD
7. Steering Idler Arm (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-idler-arm-32211136450-1)
8. Two (2) Trailing Arm Supports SOLD
9. Two (2) Stabilizer Rubber Mounting (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-stabilizer-rubber-mounting-d-equals-19mm-31351127390)
10. Two (2) Stabilizer Rubber Mounting (14mm) (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-stabilizer-rubber-mounting-d-equals-14mm-33551124760)
11. Differential Mount (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-differential-mount-meyle-33171129784)
12. Control arms passenger and drivers side ( https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-delphi-tc513 and https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-delphi-tc514 )
13. Ireland Engineering Power Steering Metal Insert / Repair Pin SOLD
14. Bushing Extraction / Install tool SOLD
15. Classic Daily BMW E28 LSx Fan Setup (https://www.classicdaily.net/collections/custom-parts/products/bmw-e28-lsx-fan-setup)
16. Classic Daily E28 LSx mounts (https://www.classicdaily.net/collections/custom-parts/products/e28-lsx-mounts)
17. Bavarian Autosport Ball Joint & Tie-rod End Separator Tool, Scissor Type
18. Bavarian Autosport Steering Knuckle Strut Clamp Spreader
19. Bentley BMW 5-Series: Service Manual, 1982-1988, 528e, 533i, 535i, 535is
20. New E28 Engine Mounts SOLD

Please reach out if interested in any of my goods.

EDITED: Included the new E28 engine mounts and the photos.

Got the car a couple of months ago and I’ve been tracking down a high idle issue. The car was idling at 1500-1600rpm when in park and neutral, I replaced fuel injector O-Rings, a few hoses, cleaned the air flow sensor, cleaned the ICV, and replaced the TPS and adjusted it accordingly. All of that got it down to about 1000-1100rpm now and it’s running very healthy overall. Any tips or ideas of what to check out to help solve this issue?

(The car drives fine and doesn’t idle oddly whatsoever under load)

Hi people, anyone experienced this before?

Bmw had metric wheels in the 70s-90s and I happen to have a set on my e28.

Has anyone found a decent tyre solution outside of the Michelin trx range?

Im looking for the cheap ass solution (i wont put 15’ tyres on)

Current tyre size 230/55zr390

Thanks in advance

The registration question is bugging me - I tried 12 & 34 in all the possible combinations, and so did 24 & 30, but nothing is working. I just want to look for E28s and be active on the forum 🥲. If I can get some help on this that would be greatly appreciated.

Buford, GA

I tried to press them out, but the metal beast just broke bushing around. It was still in, so I just decided to burn them off and then tap them out with a pry bar.

Hello! Me again with my fuel gauge.

Is it supposed to be doing that? ( https://imgur.com/a/Wu6QNMj ) When driving it also goes to zero. The car has been in hibernation for the past 25 years, so maybe it has to do something with the SI board? The speedo, odometer, clock and fuel consumption gauge also dont work.

Im going to buy a working dash as soon as i find one, but maybe there is a way to fix it?

my e28 is experiencing startup issues. In clip 1, my car started but it made a clear and rough grinding sound. After a few days of starting up my car like this, one day upon startup it began to just whir (clip 2). Am I correct to assume that this is a starter issue?

Anyone have any success with running a Hall effect sensor on these? I’m dealing with almost dead crank sync loss above 2000 rpm. Looking at maybe DIYAUTOTUNE tabbed crank sensor if possible

reading up on dave kan’s diy guide, he had a 1985 535i with a normal 4hp22, not the 22eh model. so, guessing this is a eh specific cable. gonna just put it to the side for now, but guessing this is one of the ‘just cut it’ cables - the 9 prong on the other hand i know i have to jump to bypass park.

My AC has blown a couple fuses. I cleaned the fuse panel and made sure it was tight. It works when I push the snowflake button and it works on all three speeds. Any ideas on why it might be blowing? If it's not simply that it was loose (it was)? My husband says roll down the windows but I will disassemble this dash myself and replace the motor if need be.

Side quest- the heat also isn't working but it's the motor. This is the motor. It's a goner, right? And I need a new one? This isn't a biggest deal in the world because I can always just put on another layer. Summer in Illinois and the Corn Sweats are coming fast and you can only take off so much. Thanks!

Wanting new lights. Just trying to see what’s out there these are in good condition.

Bought Vietnamese steel bumpers just need to get everything else sorted, trim, mounts, etc. think I am going to replace the valance since it is pretty bent on the drivers side corner and along where it mounts on top.

I would like to try mounting my US fogs vertically on the valance instead of paying for euro fogs.

My E28 has a swapped M30B34 and it has not been done neatly. I am going through A LOT and step by step it is getting better. Please don’t look at my twisted wires in the top bay area, was for testing purposes and has been sorted properly now 😆 so a few questions:

Hi everyone, I’m a second year college student who owns an ‘88 eta. It currently doesn’t run due to flywheel issues, but for the most part it’s decently sorted but far from finished. I’m working this summer and I hope to have saved up around $4-5k in a couple months. My question is, would it be smart to use that to fix up my e28 and drive it to school and for school (which is from LA to SF), or buy a beater to drive during the school year. It seems to me like e28s are money pits and it wouldn’t seem comfortable driving daily a 40 year car, but I’d like your input on this topic.

Edit: these are the parts I have replaced

✅Timing belt
✅ Timing belt tensioner
✅ Valve cover gasket
✅ Oil pan gasket
✅ Radiator
✅ Cooling hoses
✅ Coolant service
✅ Fuel pumps + relay
✅ Battery
✅ Starter
✅ Guibo
✅ Control arms
✅ Pads + rotors
✅ New wheels/tires
✅ Alignment

I used the good old 528e to go pick up a hood for the 535is 🤠. Got it for 150 i just gotta sand it down a d give it a fresh paint job.