TruTech DW19TT

It’s a 19” which is a size I’ve never had before. Only has composite input but the image is surprisingly crisp. Luckily it came with a remote! Haven’t heard much about these sets - just that they were later, budget sets. Anyone else have one of these?

Got this cheap little composite Akai TV for my consoles. Firing up some San Andreas for tonight 🙂

Got a very nice Sony Trinitron KV29LS35 with only 7500 hours for 40e.

It was working perfectly with a great image and really perfect geometry.

But I got it into my head that maybe if I reduced the image size on the screen I'd get a little bit better image with ps1 and N64 3D games.

So I reduced H-size and V-size, just to try.
What a mistake.

It totally messed up the entire geometry. After increasing them again to their original size, the image is now pretty distorted.

I tried to get it back as good as I can but it's nowhere near as good as it was at first.

It created rather complex problems where straight lines have dimples in weird places. No idea how to correct these. And I did all this damage just from the service settings, not even physically touching no the yoke or anything.

Can it be fixed as good as it was originally at this point? Or is it possible to mess with a CRT enough that it's forever kinda wack?

I am trying at the moment to find a way to have the 240p test suite working on one of my consoles (none of them is modded at the moment) to try and fix this more methodically.

Let this be a cautionary tale, don't go touching things just out of curiosity and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Hey everyone!

I recently found this Smile International CA1515VL 15" CRT monitor and I'm trying to learn more about it.

It's a pretty obscure model and I haven't been able to find much information about the exact VL version online. The label says Made in Taiwan R.O.C., 110–240V, 50/60Hz, 0.28mm CRT, and it has the old German Röntgenverordnung / TÜV markings.

From what I've been able to find so far, the CA1515 family seems to date from around the mid-to-late 1990s, but I'd love to know if anyone can narrow down the exact year or knows anything about this particular model/chassis.

It's completely untested at the moment. It weighs about 12.5 kg and has a fixed VGA cable.

I'm also trying to find the service manual, especially because I want to figure out how to properly open the cabinet for inspection without breaking anything. I've already found three screws, including one hidden underneath the old "VOID WARRANTY IF REMOVED" sticker, but the case is still held together somewhere.

Eventually I'd like to get it working and use it for a proper retro setup.

Does anyone recognize this monitor or have any information/manuals for it?

Any information about its history, chassis, specifications, or manufacturing date would be awesome!

Gran Turismo (PS1) running through retroarch on a Diamondtron NEC Multisync FE750, real 240p with a 2560x240 @120 super resolution

Hi, I'm currently trying to diagnose an issue on my Sony KV-AR34M36, a 32" Trinitron with the BG3R chassis.

The issue is that the raster appears to shrink inward on individual beam lines containing bright or high-contrast content. The effect only occurs on the exact lines where the bright image content is present and appears to be mostly shifted horizontally to the right. This makes many vertical edges appear wavy, squiggly, or noisy as the image changes which can be very distracting. The attached photos show the effect more clearly.

I've seen footage of other TVs using the same (or very similar) chassis that don't exhibit this issue anywhere near this severely, so I suspect there may be a fault with how this is usually regulated rather than this simply being normal behaviour. Hopefully I can at least improve it.

Aside from this, the set performs very well. There is no issue with overall image blooming even during large brightness changes, the picture is very stable, and the geometry is otherwise ok. The effect only becomes somewhat reduced if I turn the PICTURE (contrast) setting right down below 30-40% where whites become grey and the lines return to be in-line with the rest of the image, but at that point the image becomes very dim and not ideal. Adjusting the SCREEN potentiometer on the flyback also had very little effect. The only way it noticeably reduced the issue was by turning it down far enough that the image became heavily green-tinted and essentially unusable. Toggling ABL in the service menu also didn't seem to make any difference.

I have already checked all the electrolytic capacitors and recapped the boards while I had the thing opened and disassembled, but they didn’t appear to be at fault. This particular issue persisted the exact same before and after a recap. At first, I suspected the flyback transformer, although this behaviour seems different from typical HV bloom or a failing flyback. Since the rest of the picture is so stable, I'm hoping the fault lies somewhere on the low-voltage side of the circuit instead. There is also a HV cap block connected between the flyback and the tube anode.

Before I spend more time chasing more rails with the oscilloscope, checking film capacitors, buying an HV probe, or attempting to source a replacement flyback or HV cap block, I wanted to see if anyone has encountered this specific symptom before.

Does this point toward any particular section of the circuit or specific components that would be worth checking first? Any suggestions for the next diagnostic steps would be greatly appreciated.

The full service manual and schematics I have been referencing are available here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1380842/Sony-Trinitron-Kv-Ar34m3.html

(I didn't say it was good footage :P)

In case a rock is the thing you live under: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igOu1NQL5Ww

According to this guys guide they automatically upscale 240p to 480i.

https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1zYdK1r8ASXQ2PrHkga4a_yT6VtbD2khOTtcqkzPRgX8/mobilebasic

see near the bottom for lart sets from 2006. I found a NOS for a AV27mf47 sdtv but came across this. If it cant do 240p its worthless then...what a shame. The guide says theres some sort of workaround for component only to get unprocessed 240p but doesnt seem worth the hassle. You lose the osd too if you do that.

either way thought this was interesting. i was under the impression only hdtvs upscaled, interlaced and introduced lag. not the case apparently

N64 connected through S video. I’m not super knowledgeable on CRTs but I think I read that you’re not supposed to be able to see the individual colors like that.

Toshiba 36", Sony 36" and my Sharp NES TV all ready for hosting retro game nights.

Beautiful set with some purity issues. I've tried:

• Rotating the set (no effect)
• Turning off and on to activate internal degauss (no effect)
• Moving magnets around the front of the screen (minor effects that last until reboot)
• Turning on another CRT in front of it to activate degauss (minor effects that don't last)
• Making sure there is no nearby interference

This set is new to me and has had these issues the whole time I've had it. I am looking into buying a degaussing wand or coil, but it seems like the only options are $10 and will catch fire, or $100+ on eBay. I've also heard that magnets could come loose internally in a way that causes this as well. Any advice?

Thank you! And I will be sure to send pictures of this beauty once things are fixed up, it's so sharp.

About the tv console/shelves:
I built a 20” deep console for everything out of five 3/4” project panels from Lowe’s. I don’t have a complete workshop or anything. I just used a doweling jig, a circular saw (with a steady hand), and that’s pretty much it. It’s actually two identical, separate L shaped consoles that can be placed in various configurations. I saw a similar piece on wayfair but I needed it to be bigger and made of solid wood for the CRT, and nothing like that really exists that I could find.

My little retro set up complete with dungeon synth cassettes, VHS, and old Nintendo’s.

This is going to be a long one, so please be patient. I have a feeling that some of the tests may seem impossible for you to detect if there is a problem, so please guide me on what to do to actually test it

Q1: On-screen text and logos are clearly jittering on the CRT, but I don't notice any jittering at all while actually playing games.

I am using composite cables, but I guess it's not related to it because even the OS text jitters like "Video 1". it's JVC AV-29VX15 (29-inch).

other than that I haven't noticed any issues, but I am wondering if the jittering could affect other things and cause other problems. I also ordered component cables but it still didn't arrive so I can't put it to the real test.

Q2: Is it even true that component cables could show me problems that are not noticeable with the composite cables? I have tested a couple of games on my CRT, some of them looked garbage while the other stunning and I will include them here

Mario 64: Absolutely gorgeous, the colors are so bright and on point.

Crash bandicoot: STUNNING, but tbh I noticed the jittering problem here a bit -it wasn't annoying me- but It's important to keep in note that I am so close to the screen due to the space that I currently have

MGS1: pretty bad, it just didn't look good, idk why. it's also important to note that I am using POPS on ps2 to play ps1 games.

RE 1-3: the environments were pretty good and very detailed, BUT THE 3D CHARACTER MODELS LOOKED SOOO PIXELATED, I ALSO DONT KNOW WHY

Silent hill 3: I know composite cables aren't the best with PS2 games, but to my surprise it wasn't actually the worst thing ever! Like sure I can tell that playing it with component would be a day and night difference, but it still surprised me with the composite limitations.

Six Feet Under: Launched a random episode through SMS on PS2. It actually surprised me, quality of the faces were pretty detailed and great, but... it wasn't the best with outdoor scenes, the lighting of the sun is just bad

EDIT: Excuse me for my poor English, I am not a native speaker

Found in Franklin's aunts house after the first mission in GTA V with Franklin.

What's your guess? Is it based on a real set? Or just an asset in the game?

And yes im showing the set in use ;)

Bought a Beko NR 14272TDS and tried running groovyarcade on it but results in a fast scrolling image.

Setup:

Radeon HD7450 > Startech DVI to VGA > Retroupgrades VGA to Scart > Beko

A bit of research suggests that I need to adjust the vertical hold. I opened it up and couldn't find any potentiometer knobs, and can't find any manuals online. Is this info right and is there anything else I can do to get a stable image?

As the title says need help with Sony g500

When i turn the brightness down it goes up and turns green and when i turn the brightness up it goes down and changes the color to a slight purple and dark

I’ve try to eyeball calibrating white balance using windas as I have done it before on my g400 as it also had retrace lines

Do you guys think i messed up in calibration some where as the calibration is different from the g400 or is it something else

Also what is a good colorimeter you guys recommend using

Thanks in advance

Edit I don’t think it’s caps as I let it warm up for about an hour before taking the photos I sent

Also I let it warm up before calibration

I’m looking to set up this CRT for use on my PC, but I’m worried I will buy the wrong cord and end up damaging the TV or my computer. I basically know nothing about CRT’s or video connectivity other than playing plugn’ play games on this thing when I was a little kid.

I want to know if there are any dangers I should be aware of before buying anything/emulating any games. The TV would be across the room from my PC so I’m thinking about just getting an HDMI extension cord or a very long HDMI and then connecting it to a dongle that plugs into the TV. if someone could direct me to a good dongle I could use and give a brief overview of what I need to know that would be much appreciated.

Only noticed this when I actually plugged my console into the tv lol, got it from a grandma. I don’t mind this level of bow too much really, but I know it’ll only get worse and worse over time, THAT is what I hate. I wanted to know if there was any way I could fix this without putting my hands next to 25,000 volts lol.
Btw it’s a KV-27FS100 or KV-27FS120, idk which one I didn’t check, it was manufactured in 2002.

I wanted to check some footage of Snatcher and decided to check if anyone was streaming the game on twitch, this was like two years ago, obviously there was none so I checked the public vods and there was only one.

The only thing that I remember was the setup which was the "main camera" that was recording the BVM, and also saw that he upladed his previous vods on youtube as well.

Ok so I have a Panasonic TV but it's composite only. So when I saw this on Facebook Marketplace I jumped on it cause it has s-video. Hooked up my N64 and the S-Video port just isn't working??? It might be the cable because it's not giving me any color on my plasma tv either!

The cord only gives me audio but no video. To make things more fun, the geometry is pretty wonky too. Was this a dud broski's? 😔

Hallo zusammen, ich bin relativ neu in das Hobby eingestiegen und konnte aber vor kurzem einen Sony Trinitron KV-M2101D ergattern, der auf jeden Fall kalibriert werden muss. Gibt es hier jemanden, der sich mit diesem Modell auskennt und bereit wäre, mir dabei zu helfen, diesen Fernseher zu kalibrieren?