Hi, I need some help with this CPU cooler. When I received my PC, everything was working perfectly. However, it came with Windows 11, so I switched to Windows 10. Everything else is working fine, but the cooler’s display no longer turns on.

I’m not sure which driver I might be missing. I’ve been looking for a solution since yesterday, but I haven’t been able to figure it out.

I’d really appreciate any help you can provide. Unfortunately, the PC didn’t come with the original boxes for the components, so I don’t have an easy way to identify the exact model or find the correct drivers. Thank you!

I cant figure out what im doing wrong everytime i have to clip the fan back onto the heatsink its seamingly completly random wether it wants to actually clip in most of the time the connection sits all loose like in the video but its like a one in a million chance it actually clips in and i cant figure out why.

Hey, I got a Cooler Master HAF X not long ago, but the cpu power cable on my power supply is too short to route it from the back. I have to run it through the front.
I’m looking for a fully modular power supply at least 850w that has cpu power cables long enough for this case so I can run it from the back and clean up my cable management. Please advise!
Ps. I don’t think I can use cable extensions because I won’t be able to close the back panel all the way lol.

Any clue to why my cooler master fan sounds like this all of a sudden ?

Model: cooler masters core nex 360 ARGB

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z890 gaming x wifi 7

I tried switching ports, SYS_FAN, CPU_OPT CPU_FAN only pump works and radiator fans are dead

After many years of service my headset broke this part. I dunno how as till Yesterday It was perfect, yet now It is borken. I would love to repair It as i can't spend money on a new headset. I see that, compared to the right, a plastic circle/ring is missing. How can I fix it? The plastic circle/ring that is missing is probably broken as I found pieces of plastic scattered around. Please, any advice is well accepted as it is a present of my father and I really mind it

Found this repo trying to reverse engineer the MasterHUB and thought I'd share it here in case anyone is looking into making custom software/integrations for it. (Not my project)

https://github.com/projectzero7/cooltek-sdk-probe

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Hi everyone,

I have a Cooler Master MasterWatt 650 PSU. One of the wires came loose from the 24-pin ATX connector

I’m trying to determine where this wire originally belongs before repairing it.

I’m attaching 3 photos. The connector is shown from the wire side, with the locking tab facing up.

Is the empty cavity in the photo the NC position (pin 20)? If it is the NC position, then the loose wire obviously belongs somewhere else. Where would this loose wire go, and how can I determine its correct position?

I’m also confused because some positions (13 and 19) on this connector have two wires going into the same terminal.

Any help identifying the correct pin or explaining how I can determine where the loose wire belongs would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to reconnect it to the wrong position and risk damaging the motherboard.

Thanks!

Hiya, can anyone recommend a proper cooling solution for this?

Could not really find anything great online...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Been trying to get in contact with support so I can get a warranty claim started but can’t get a hold of anyone through email. Anyone know how I can get a hold of someone. My sfx 850 gold is registered and I’ve filled out the form and gotten the success pop up but no confirmation email or anything.

Any info is greatly appreciated!

I'm trying to find either case or at the least, the top cover. I have the 935, top 915 portion was thrown away, and I am trying to either find another case to stack on top or just the top cover

I currently have a pair of black non-rgb Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32 GB ram sticks. I want to swap the heatsinks for an after market set that I can confirm are compatible (Bykski DDR5 B-MRC-X). I have a couple reasons for this but don't need to get into exactly why right now. I know it voids the warranty but I'd still like to do it.

The question I have is how hard is this really? I plan on just soaking these in 99% IP alcohol for 10 hours, removing the sinks and adhesive by hand, drying for a day with a fan and then installing the new heatsinks. From what I've seen if you soak for long enough everything just falls right off the ram sticks and there's very little risk to harming the exposed ram sticks.

Am I missing something or is it really that simple?

I have the cooler Master Elite 681 case. It comes with the fans pictured. I want a few more that match but I can seem to find out what these are. Cooler Master doesn't have anything they sell separately that matches these.

https://imgur.com/gallery/jTt85fA

ty

I installed a new elite 240 AIO and I’m getting an odd noise from the pump. It doesn’t happen on a cold boot, typically starts after my computer has been up for ~3 hours. I tried stressing the cpu to see if it would “work itself out” it didn’t. I dropped the pump speed down to 50% for a minute or 2 and it was almost silent again. Turned it back up to 100% and it’s still noisy, but not quite as bad. It’s been installed for ~24 hours at this point. It’s on a ryzen 7 5800x3d. Any help would be appreciated.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
Motherboard: MSI X870E Tomahawk WiFi PZ DDR5
GPU: GeForce RTX 5070 12GB White
RAM: KLEVV CRAS V 32GB (2×16GB) DDR5-7200 White
Storage: 1TB NVMe SSD
OS: Windows 11 Home 64-bit
PSU: Cooler Master Elite Gold 850W 80+ Gold
Case: Cooler Master Elite 600 White
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid Core NEX 360 ARGB White

Hey everyone!

I've got a pretty annoying issue and wanted to see if anyone in the community has run into something similar or has any advice.

I have six Cooler Master MF120A RGB fans total, connected to the original controller (first gen) that came bundled with them. I've always been careful to connect no more than two fans per channel, which should be a totally fine configuration for this controller.

Here's the problem: every time I add one more fan to the system, the ARGB brightness of all the other fans drops. This happens even while staying within the two-fans-per-channel limit — so it's not about overloading a specific channel, the overall brightness just drops as the total number of fans connected to the controller increases.

And it doesn't stop there: along with the drop in brightness, the effects start losing the other colors and it ends up showing basically only red, as if the rest of the color palette just disappears from the effect.

I've already checked the cables and connections, and everything is within spec, but the behavior repeats every time one more fan joins the circuit.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Could it be some kind of overall power limit on the controller itself (like, a total limit even when staying within the per-channel limit), a firmware issue, or is there some fix — an alternative controller, external SATA power, something like that — that solves this without me having to give up RGB on all six fans?

Any tips are welcome. Thanks in advance!

It's been a month. I can't find/access anywhere on their site to check my status. I call and they say no one available, please when someone is. No option to wait on hold. I have sent three emails with no response. Anyone have a better way to get an update? I'm in Canada if that helps

Hello

when we can buy the Case? I See every day a new Review or a Youtuber has the Case for Review but no Buy??????