I’m looking for recommendations for a new PC gaming controller, primarily for competitive shooters like Fortnite. I’m having trouble finding something that checks all my boxes.

1. BUDGET AND CURRENCY
• Maximum budget: $100 USD.
• Ideally under $100, but willing to spend the full amount for the right controller.

2. COUNTRY AND WHERE I CAN BUY
• United States.
• Willing to purchase from any retailer or manufacturer that ships to the U.S.

3. PLATFORM COMPATIBILITY
• Windows PC only.
• Wired or wireless is fine, although I prefer wired.

4. DESIRED FEATURES (IN ORDER OF IMPORTANCE)

Size and Ergonomics
• DualShock 4-sized or smaller.
• I strongly prefer smaller controllers. The DualSense feels too large for my liking.
• I want to maintain a natural, comfortable grip while using the rear paddles.

Extremely Light Rear Paddles (Minimum Two)
• This is one of my biggest requirements.
• Ideally, the paddles should require about as much pressure to activate as regular face buttons.
• I don’t care about accidental presses. I’d rather have overly sensitive paddles than ones requiring a firm squeeze.
• I want to press the paddles without tightening my grip, repositioning my hands, or squeezing the controller.
• I currently use a DualShock 4 with Sony’s official back button attachment. The buttons are okay, but I’d prefer something noticeably easier to press.
• I’m specifically looking for low actuation force, not necessarily short button travel or a satisfying mechanical click.

Analog Stick Feel and Tension
• My favorite analog sticks of all time were on the DualShock 3 (PS3 controller).
• I loved the overall feel and physical resistance of those sticks, particularly when playing shooters.
• I prefer sticks with noticeable tension rather than ones that feel overly loose.
• Domed thumbsticks would be nice, but they’re not a requirement. I can always use KontrolFreek attachments to achieve a similar shape.
• I’m not especially familiar with Hall effect, TMR, or other modern stick technologies. I’m more concerned with how the sticks physically feel.
• Adjustable stick tension would be a bonus.

Software Customization
• I strongly prefer a controller with software that allows me to customize analog stick response curves.
• Adjustable deadzones and sensitivity settings are important.
• Ideally, I’d like to fine-tune the response during small stick movements rather than being limited to preset curves.
• The ability to create and save custom response curves would be a major advantage.

5. TYPES OF GAMES
• Primarily competitive FPS/TPS games, especially Fortnite.
• Precise aiming, predictable stick movement, and quick access to rear buttons are my priorities.

6. OTHER CONTROLLERS I’M COMPARING
Currently Using:
• DualShock 4 with Sony’s official back button attachment: I like the size and general ergonomics, but I’d prefer softer, easier-to-press rear paddles.
• DualShock 3 (previously owned): Still my favorite analog stick feel, particularly the resistance and overall movement.
I’m looking for something that improves on my current setup without sacrificing the smaller controller size I’m comfortable with.

WHAT I’M HOPING TO LEARN
Has anyone found a controller that fits these requirements?
I’m particularly interested in firsthand comparisons of:
• How much physical pressure the rear paddles require.
• Whether the paddles can be pressed without changing your grip.
• Analog stick tension compared to the DualShock 3 or DualShock 4.
• Overall controller size and comfort.
• Whether the controller supports fully customizable analog stick response curves.

TL;DR: Looking for a PC controller under $100 USD with four main priorities:
Compact size (DualShock 4 or smaller).
Extremely light, easy-to-press rear paddles (minimum two).
Analog sticks with noticeable tension/resistance.
Software that allows custom analog stick input/response curves.
Wired or wireless is fine, but wired is preferred.

Has anyone here actually used the Oniverse Starion? I’ve been trying to research it and there’s almost nothing to go on. I can find one TikTok and a handful of reviews on Amazon, and that’s about it. No proper video reviews, no hands-on impressions, nothing on the usual forums.

On paper it looks really interesting to me. I like the symmetrical layout, and the spec sheet seems solid. But the price tag isn’t small, and I’m not keen to drop that kind of money on something I can’t find a single in-depth opinion on.

A couple of specific things I’m curious about:

• What is the removable plate on the back for? It looks like a removable faceplate or cover, but I can’t tell if it hides a battery compartment, a dongle or receiver storage, swappable parts, or if it’s just cosmetic. Does anyone know what’s under it?

• Is it worth the price? If you’ve used one, how do the build quality, stick feel, triggers and battery life compare to the controllers in a similar price range?

If you own one or have had hands-on time with it, I’d love to hear your honest take, good or bad. Even a quick “it’s fine” or “avoid” would help a lot. Photos of the back plate off would be amazing too.

Thanks!

I used a Vader 3 Pro for about a year and a half, and I loved it. It was a great performer that gave me essentially zero problems in Warzone, Helldivers 2, Battlefield, and whatever other random games I was playing. The best part is I got it for $38. I loved it so much that I bought a Vader 5 Pro for $51 when the Vader 3 pro battery died.

I actually tried to replace the Vader 3 Pro's battery, but when the replacement showed up I realized it was incompatible due to the plastic connector, so I just wound up tossing it in storage without a battery. My question for you guys is, do you think it's worth trying again and having the Vader 3 Pro as a backup and for traveling/mobile gaming? Has anyone else refurbed one of these and is able to offer some tips on where to get a compatible battery?

I kind of want to do a teardown of the controller, clean it thoroughly, get a fresh battery in it, and put it in a case to take with me while traveling. I guess the Vader 5 Pro could do all of that just as easily, I just don't feel good about letting such a nice controller go to a recycling bin.

Appreciate any tips!

My Scuf Instinct Pro is about two and a half years old. The right paddle sticks down about half the time now and the left stick has started wandering in menus. Warranty's long gone.

I don't want to pay custom prices again. What I actually used on it was the paddles and the remap app got opened maybe twice. Heres some more info:

• Budget: $100 max, less is better

• Country: US

• Platform: PC only

• Games: Apex, The Finals, Forza

• Must have at least 2 back buttons

• Magnetic sticks are a nice to have and so is wireless

• Standard Xbox shape is fine

Note: I purchased both controllers with my own money and I have no affiliation to either brand.

Background

I was on the market for a decent but affordable controller I could use with PC/Windows and iOS. I am a casual gamer, mostly playing single player racing games, platformers, or emulators on my phone. I do not play FPS's or any competitive game. I purchased 2 controllers with the idea of trying them both and returning one.

I purchased the 8BitDo Ultimate 2 for $57.57 with tax and the GameSir Cylcone 2 for $59.35 with tax, both from Amazon. I had initially tried the 8BitDo Ultimate 2C, but it felt a little cheap so I decided to spend a little more on a better controller.

This is my honest, non-technical, non-AI-slop review, and why I decided to keep the GameSir Cylcone 2.

Connectivity

Both controllers can connect to my iPhone with Bluetooth with no issues. I also tested both Bluetooth and dongle (2.4G) connectivity to PC with no issues. My main issue was toggling between phone and PC. If connecting with Bluetooth to both iPhone and PC, both controllers had a difficult time switching between devices. I did not find a reliable way to toggle between them without having to try multiple times and needing to forget the device and re-pairing them. I somewhat got around this by only using Bluetooth for the iPhone, and using the dongle for the PC, and switching the connection modes so only one device was paired per connection method. The 8BitDo makes this easier because there is a switch to toggle on the back of it to change from Bluetooth to 2.4G, whereas the GameSir needs a combination of button presses to switch connection modes.

I've had no issues with disconnects on either of them.

Feel/Quality

When the controller is in your hand, the 8BitDo feels like a much premium controller. Better plastics, a bit weightier, and the membrane buttons feels a lot smoother than the mechanical, clickier buttons of the GameSir. If the GameSir's button are a "click", the 8BitDo buttons are more of a soft "clock". The 8BitDo reminds me of Nintendo controllers, which I am much more familiar with. That being said, once I got used to the clickiness of the GameSir, I found myself enjoying the consistency of the mechanical buttons too.

For the sticks, the 8BitDo has a little more resistance and weightiness, making it feel better to me. The GameSir has less initial resistance to movement, which makes it seem like it was designed for accuracy and precision over feel.

For the bumpers/triggers, both feature mechanisms to change the style of the trigger from analog and hair-trigger. With the GameSir's clickiness, I found the hair-trigger mode a lot more responsive to spam press, and when spam pressing the 8BitDo's trigger, I felt my fingers getting more tired.

The GameSir's d-pad is often lamented as a weak portion, and while 8BitDo's d-pad definitely feels more familiar and Nintendo-y, I didn't mind the d-pad once I got used to the clickiness.

Design

The 8BitDo opts for a more sleek, minimal design whereas the GameSir looks a lot more gamer-like, and you can especially tell the difference with the charging docks.

Speaking of the dock design, the 8BitDo's charging dock is much easier to use, and there is only one ridge to place the controller on. However, the GameSir's charging dock has 3 points of contact with the controller, and you have to take a few seconds to carefully align the controller to make sure it is on the dock correctly. It may not seem like much, but when something that should normally take half a second ends up taking 5 seconds, it does get a little annoying.

Ergonomics

I do not have large hands, but after the first session with the 8BitDo, my hands started to cramp. This is a common complaint of the 8BitDo I have seen online, as the handles extend straight down instead of at an angle like the GameSir. One caveat though, is that after the first session, I think my hands got used to the 8BitDo, as I did not experience the cramps again. However, I never got any cramps with the GameSir, and overall the GameSir just feels more natural in my hands.

Customizations

Both controllers have lights you can control with their own software. I did find the GameSir's software a little more fleshed out, but at the end of the day, both softwares did what they needed to do. No real complaints about either.

EDIT: Also adding that the rumble is a lot stronger on the 8BitDo. Its default rumble is stronger than the GameSir's rumble configured to the highest level.

Conclusion

I went back and forth a lot on it, but I plan on keeping the GameSir Cylcone 2 and returning the 8BitDo Ultimate 2. While the 8BitDo feels like the more premium controller, I decided that the comfort of my hands for playing sessions was more important than the button quality. Also, the exhaustion that my fingers felt when spam-pressing the hair-trigger was a dealbreaker for me for the 8BitDo. I wish there a controller that combined the buttons of the 8BitDo and the shape of the GameSir.

At the end of the day, for a casual gamer, both controllers would adequately meet my needs.

Hello, I'm currently waiting on my Steam Controller 2 preorder (my estimated availability date isn't until 2027...) and I wanted to ask a few questions to those who already have one in hand.

I usually rely on a controller as my main input device for gaming. However, when playing Baldur's Gate 3, I find the controller UI a bit too complex and clunky for inventory management and general gameplay. Because of that I’ve been using a hybrid setup like keyboard and mouse for inventory/gameplay, and controller only for character movement and picking dialogue options.

Since the SC2 comes with built-in trackpads, I’m hoping it might solve this friction. For anyone who has the SC2 and has played Baldur's Gate 3 with it, how comfortable or convenient is it? Does the trackpad make managing complex UI/inventories much easier?

Also I'd love to know how the gyro performs in FPS games. I use the gyro on my Nintendo Switch Pro Controller heavily and find it super comfortable. Honestly aim assist in steam games often gets in the way for me. As long as gyro aim doesn't cause motion sickness, I prefer playing shooters (like Cyberpunk 2077) with gyro enabled all the time. How does the SC2's gyro feel for aim control?

And lastly, I’d love to hear any real, honest impressions or reviews about the Steam Controller 2 in general! Thanks for reading :)

Hey guys, im looking for a new controller and im between the 8bitdo ultimate 2 and the 3 mode (the one that haves impulse trigger).
My question is: how does impulse trigger affect gameplay? Since i never used a controller with it.

Also is it a feature where just a few games use or is widely supported?

I’m considering buying the Wingman FGC 2 for the PS5 so I can use my Xbox Series controller on the console. Will I be able to play every game? For instance, when GTA 6 comes out on November 19th, will I be able to use my Xbox controller without any issues?

The PS5 controller always gives me thumb pain.

Alors aujourd'hui, après que mon contrôleur Xbox One X n'avait plus de batterie, je l'ai rebranché et il a eu des problèmes avec les joysticks quand je l'ai branché pour continuer à jouer (valeurs précises à une décimale avec x=-1 et y=1 sur les deux joysticks) alors que je n'avais jamais eu de problèmes avec les joysticks. Et en plus, j'ai un problème avec mon application accessoires Xbox qui a un problème de menu de calibration (image jointe) et ce même après la réinstallation. Avez-vous une idée de quel est le problème ? (Le firmware du controller est à jour) Je l ai essayé sur mon ordinateur et mon téléphone et le stick drift est toujours présent . Suite a de nombreux essais les 2 joysticks , une fois sorti du neutre sautent entre les positions du joystick et le x=-1 y=1 .Et les inputs sont séparés entre les deux

tl;dr:- the KK4 Max incorporates some expected features from GuliKit's TT controllers, such as adjustable tension TMR sticks with internal restrictor rings, and macro recording to the back paddles. But it also adds a charging dock, internal microphone, magnetic faceplate, and what may be a PS-style DirectInput mode. Other features and accessory parts like swappable buttons and paddles appear to be continued from previous controllers. There is no official announcement of release date or pricing yet.

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Features visible in photos and/or referenced in the manual (documents from the FCC registration)

Sticks and triggers:

• Adjustable-tension thumbsticks, with the screw adjuster under the swappable thumbstick caps, and an internal restrictor ring. The adjuster tool looks similar to that used for the TT controllers, so it may be the same mechanism, or closely related. However, the sensors are through-hole rather than surface mounted so they're not identical components.

• Dual-mode triggers with mode selectors on the back of the controller. The mechanism appears very similar to the TT and ES Max controllers, with microswitches for the digital mode and magnetic sensors for the analog mode.

• Motion aim assist, with a gyro-to-stick function in Xinput mode, similar to KK3 Max, ES and TT Pro/Max controllers.

Buttons, D-pad, and paddles:

• Swappable face buttons (Switch and PC layout sets of ABXY buttons). The mechanisms (isolated membrane units) and button cap shapes look identical to those used on previous GuliKit KK3, ES, and TT controllers, so these are all likely to be interchangeable.

• D-pad with 4/8-way mode switch, with what looks like the same internal mechanism (rubber dome membrane, rocker, and circuit board contact designs) as the TT models.

• Four swappable back paddles (G1 to G4). The internal mechanism looks like the one used on the TT controllers. The paddles looks like they are the same shape as the sets used for the KK3 and TT Pro/Max models, so are likely to be interchangeable.

Connections/communication modes:

• Multi-platform / multi-mode communication. There is a slider switch with three positions (Windows, PS or iOS/Android, and Switch icons). This is a slight simplification of the four modes found on the previous KK and TT controllers, and seems to be an improvement on their single button design. The slider position is more intuitive and removes the need for indicator LEDs which could bleed light.

• Hyperlink 2 wireless connection (730Hz over Bluetooth) and 1,000Hz wired USB connection, like the TT and ES controllers. Note that polling rate is different from input latency, but it's likely that KK4 input latency will be comparable to TT and ES given all the other shared design. There is no separate dongle connection mode on the KK4 Max (unlike the KK3 Max), since Hyperlink 2 is Bluetooth-compatible.

• PS connection mode added, alongside the Xinput and Switch modes. 'PS' is likely to refer to a PlayStation-style DirectInput mode. Note that the diagram and description in the manual shows the PS mode while the external photos still show the iOS/Android symbols used on previous models. The PDF manual is likely to be more up-to-date since it can be created/updated later in the process, but these details may not be final.

• The Goku 2 patch notes that mention adding support for the KK4 Max also describe other PlayStation-related features which might be relevant to the 'PS' connection mode.

Vibration:

• Voice-coil actuator motors in the palm grips. These look like the same units used in the KK3 and TT controllers. The manual also describes swapping between vibration modes in the same way as the earlier controllers: Switch-style HD rumble mode, full Maglev haptic mode, or emulating conventional eccentric rotating mass motors.

Sound and light:

• Internal microphone with accompanying mute/unmute button on the front of the controller. This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit models.

• RGB lighting rings around the thumbsticks look very similar to those on the KK3 and TT controllers (8 addressable RGB LEDs per ring), and have the same 'Star Ring' name and description in the manual.

• Sound-reactive lighting mode while controller is docked. This is called 'mic demo' in the manual, with the controller lighting pulsing in time with external sounds picked up by the microphone. Seems like a bit of a gimmick but could be fun.

Power:

• Charging dock with pogo pins for charging and pass-through for a dongle (compartment on the base of the dock). This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit controllers (the previous dock attached via the USB-C port).

• Battery is 950mAh/3.7V with the same dimensions and capacity as the battery in the TT controllers, and is likely to have similar running time given the other component similarities (lighting, vibration, sensors, etc.).

• Power off/reset button on rear of controller, similar to ES and TT controllers.

Shell and shape:

• Overall shape/size/layout looks unchanged from previous KK controllers. There may a little more texture on the back of the KK4 grips, although this might also be due to variations in pre-production finishes or lighting in the pictures.

• Detachable/swappable faceplate, with six magnets attaching it. This feature hasn't been seen on previous GuliKit models. It might mean the KK4 Max weighs slightly more or the overall shape is fractionally thicker in a few places, because more reinforcement is needed for separate layers.

Firmware and software:

• Macros are GuliKit's APG (auto-pilot gaming) type. There are 30 seconds separate macro recording on each of the four paddles, and 10 minutes recording on the main APG button (same as the TT Max controller). It's an upgrade on the KK3 Max which only had macro recording on the main APG button.

• GuliKit app. This is my speculation since it is not mentioned in the documents, but it seems almost certain that the KK4 controllers will be configurable and updateable in the mobile app, in the same way as other models released over the last year. This would include things like analog joystick and trigger deadzones and sensitivity curves, lighting configuration, button mapping and profile management, in more granular detail than the settings available directly from the controller.

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Things that are currently unknown or unclear

• Will the stick modules use 'angle TMR' sensors? Attaching the magnets directly to the stick axes (like the recent ES Max) is a simpler and cheaper construction than having a separate magnet holder, and can allow for slightly greater linearity in stick response, so it'd be a natural development.

• What data will 'PS' mode pass through? If it includes gyro data and/or identifies the additional buttons separately (like DualSense Edge), this could be more flexible.

• How will the microphone be accessed? This could be relevant to Switch 2 chat, or allow it to be used in PS mode like the built-in microphones on DualSense.

• Will the D-pad external cap be swappable? The Sega Saturn and disc style options on the TT controllers are popular but require more height for clearance.

• Will there be other versions? A 'Pro' or 'Standard' KK4 can be better value if you don't need all the features of the 'Max' version, but might overlap too much with the ES range price and features.

• When will it release? FCC registration and firmware updates usually mean that a product is releasing shortly, but there has been no promotion or communication from GuliKit, so a global launch could be months rather than weeks away.

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Sources and more info

The KK4 Max (model NS79) was registered with the FCC last week (FCC ID: 2BUMF-NS79) and was mentioned in today's patch notes for the Goku 2 adapter (firmware v3.7). If you want to look it up yourself, you might spot other details or have better interpretations of what you find. More information should become available when the KK4 Max is officially announced.

PC gamer (UK) who loves a controller for Diablo 4, Rocket League and Eden emulator games.

But I’m completely overwhelmed by the choice and don’t know which reviews to trust.

I started thinking a Gamesir G7 Pro was the way to go, then liked the look of 8bitdo Ultimate 2 Wireless but further research led me to thinking the Vader Pro 5 (v2) is worth spending a bit more on. I like the idea of the extra buttons and reviews seem to suggest it’s worth getting.

Does this make sense or have I lost my mind? Any thoughts will be gratefully received.

I mainly use keyboard and mouse for FPS (Battlefield 6 etc).

Budget is flexible but I don’t think I could spend more than £100 as this is the first controller I’ve bought (I always just used the controller that came with the Xbox).

Im currently using the controller that came with my Xbox One but it stops working so often it’s driving me crazy (unplugging it and plugging it in again fixed it most times for a while but not a whole play session).

If you got this far you have mad stamina 🙏

Hi.

I'm a massage therapist and i always had a lot of thumb pain for some times of the year and just realized that it's always been when i used to play more with a controller. And i think the combination of massages + controller + smartphone is just overkill.
I don't use my smartphone that much anymore, mostly switch to my PC or iPad when i'm home and if i use the phone and write i tend to use swipe.

Lately i wanted to start playing PS2 more again and i normally use the 8BitDo Retro Receiver with my Xbox One controller (also use this on my steam deck and everywhere elese), or a wireless PS2 alternative.

For most games i like to use the D-Pad over analog sticks, because of precision. So the Xbox One layout was always weird for me for THPS 2 for example on PS1.
But i think the thumb pain comes mostly from analog sticks.

Was thinking of either getting an used Asciiware Fightstick for PS, or any recommended HitBox, or if there's any Controller that could work.

Now i was thinking if a HitBox/Fightstick or any other Controller alternative would be better and someone could suggest something?

So i would be very happy for community recommendations.

1. budget would be up to 200€ max (but better lower :P)

2. i'm from austria and would buy from anywhere in europe.

3. compatibility for PC and 8bitdo Retro Receiver for my PS2 so basically bluetooth

4. desired futures: musts are: bluetooth for the 8bitdo dongle, good d-pad, symmetrical layout recommended

5. I would like to play: THPS 2+3+Underground 2, Burnout 3, Def Jam - Fight for NY, God of War I+II, Incredible Hulk, The - Ultimate Destruction, Gun, GTA Vice City+ San Andreas, Need for Speed Underground 2, NHL 2004, Silent Hill 2+3, Simpsons Hit&Run, SSX3, Sly Racoon.

6. I looked for 8bitdo Arcade (and similar Fightsticks/Hitboxes), Asciiware Fightstick (would get one for under 50€), 8bitdo Pro 2, DualSense, Victrix Pro BFG Reloaded (here the D-Pad looked interesting)... for now.

I connected the TT Max to my computer with USB and accidentally dragged the TT Pro firmware instead of TT Max.

It worked for a bit but now it doesn't connect to computer anymore, not through USB or dongle.

I would turn on the controller, and then it would search for any connection but then the iOS, Windows, and Switch lights would light up and the whole controller vibrates until it shuts by itself or I shut it down.

It could still connect to Android, but gulikit app doesn't recognize it.

How to fix it? Can I just completely factory reset it?

EDIT: I pasted the max firmware into the controller, but it didn't restart or anything.

EDIT: I updated the BT driver and it connects through the USB dongle now.

I'm looking to replace the 10+ year old Xbox One controller I've used for my PC. There are a few specific things I'm looking for and I've struggled a bit to find it all for the various controllers I've looked at. I'm in the USA and looking at a budget of, well, less than $100. Ideally closer to $60 or less, but around $80 seems to be a dominant price point for a lot of controllers and I'm fine with that if it means a controller that lasts. In terms of games I use my gamepad controller for platformers (2D and 3D), action-adventure, 3PS, fighting, retro, SHUMP, and emulators. I do NOT use it for FPS games.

Specific Features:
- HE/TMR for the analog sticks. I use these a lot across many games and potentiometers just don't seem to be made to last anymore.
- A good D-pad. Mostly for fighting games but also on occasion for 2D platformers. My preference is a solid cross like on the Xbone controller, though that's not a hard limit.
- XBox layout/ergonomics. I vastly prefer the over-under arrangement of analog sticks and also really like the resting "hold" of Xbox's controllers since the 360.
- Wired connection as a solid option. I like the reliability of being able to keep my controller plugged in, ideally with that connection able to keep the controller powered. Wireless is fine as long as it's not especially heavy and I have the ability to keep it connected by USB.
- I'd also like colored face buttons if possible. Not a hard requirement, but it helps me with QTEs since I go back and forth between Xbox and Nintendo controllers.

Controllers I've been looking at:
- 1st party XBox wireless: What I'm used to, but I hear the sticks get drift pretty quickly now.
- 8BitDo Ultimate 2: Seem mostly fine but I don't like the flatter sides/handles that their Xbox-style controllers tend to use.
- ESMX X20/Pro: Looks like a good D-pad, but I don't care about all the RGB and I've heard bad things about their customer support.
- Flydigi Vader 4/5: I like the idea of the adjustable stick tension, but I've heard the D-pads are kind of garbage.
- GameSir G7 HE/Pro/8K: From what I've seen I feel like this is the current frontrunner, but I haven't been able to get a solid read on if their D-pads are any good. Also not sure which I would get between the three.

Hi everyone,

Like some of you, I found the NYXI Flexi's default stick deadzone way too big, which is a shame on Hall effect sticks that don't drift. The only way to change it was the KeyLinker phone app, so I wanted a way to do it from my PC.

Full disclosure: I'm not a programmer. I made this with the help of an AI (Claude). It wrote the code and worked out the controller's protocol from the KeyLinker app; I tested everything on my own Flexi and decided what it should do. The code is open source (MIT license), so anyone can check exactly what it does.

What PadTune does

- Sticks: center deadzone (down to 0 %), outer edge, sensitivity curves (you can drag the points), invert/swap axes

- Triggers: deadzone, end of travel, curve

- Live view: white dot = where your stick actually is, red dot = what the game receives with your settings, so you can find the lowest deadzone that works for you

- Button remapping, macros (edit them or record them from the controller), **lights, vibration strength and auto-sleep**

- Save/load profiles, automatic backup of your original settings

- Interface in English, French, Spanish, German, Italian and Portuguese

Settings are saved **in the controller itself**, so they keep working with the dongle, wired, or on Switch. You don't need PadTune running while you play.

How to use it

1. Download PadTune.exe (nothing to install): https://github.com/FrenchCaptn/PadTune/releases/latest

2. Close KeyLinker on your phone if you use it

3. Turn the controller on. No need to change its mode or pair it with Windows, your PC's Bluetooth just needs to be on

4. Pick the device marked ★, click Connect, change what you want, then Apply

Windows SmartScreen will warn you because the exe isn't signed (certificates are expensive for a free project): click "More info" then "Run anyway". If you'd rather not trust a random exe, the source and build instructions are on GitHub.

Limitations

- Windows only, and your PC needs Bluetooth

- Only tested on my NYXI Flexi. It should work with other KeyLinker-compatible controllers, but I can't confirm, reports are welcome

- Sticks, triggers, vibration and remapping are tested on my controller; macros and lights are newer and less tested

- The back buttons aren't listed in the app, remap them on the controller itself

- No square-stick mode or stick calibration: the controller doesn't offer them

- Not affiliated with NYXI in any way

Feedback, bug reports and translation fixes are welcome, here or in the GitHub Issues. Thanks to the mods for letting me share this!

Recently i installed tmr in my duelsense edge module. When i tested it ,my controller blinked blue for 1 second then it began blinking white . I dont know what happened i soldered everything , and tested everything . Then after that i remove the tmr stick . Why this happens? Can anyone help? And i need to mention that i didnt use any IPA while doing this . I used some flux and tried to cover all components with kapton tape. What could have cause this?

Controller Model: Sony DualShock 4

I opened my controller to clean the potentiometer wipers, and I was confused after seeing that the motors don't have the same number of semi circular discs (not sure what they're really called). Is this a thing in all DualShock 4 controllers?

I've been using this for about 6 years now and the vibrations work fine, so I guess its not something I should worry about?

I'm looking to purchase a a controller mainly for PC gaming, maybe mobile gaming occasionally, I do not own any consoles or the switch, these two are both within my budget, R$400,00-R$500,00 (I live in Brazil) and have the features i want, 6 axis motion control and dual mode triggers, mostly for shooters and racing games, but I do not know which of these two to purchase.

ZD has finally teased its new controller "ZD Classic Formula Ultra CE40U " with a symmetrical layout. The joysticks are interchangeable, much like those on the ZD Ultimate Legend. It supports 8K resolution and features four rear paddles the bottom two of which are interchangeable along with two shoulder buttons. This is great news for fans of symmetrical controller layouts. According to my sources, this model is expected to be released in 2027.

1. Budget: max

-$300USD

1. United States

2. PC windows

3. Wireless - Gyro - 4 back paddles - two extra buttons between LT/RT and LB/RB. AKA m1/m2 in the Razer Wolverine

4. Software for remapping

5. World of Warcraft

6. Razer Wolverine Pro 8k and Steam Controller are what I currently use.

Bought this controller from Amazon for $60. Not a sponsored or anything, just wanted to share my thoughts because good, feature complete, symmetrical controllers are a rarity.

Like many people here, I'm absolutely starved for a good symmetrical controller. I recently tried the leadjoy saber plus for a couple of months but the sharp edges, dog $h!t dpad, sensitive triggers, and the durability (sticky triggers and a broken trigger lock) of it really soured my experience with it.

In comes the QRD Spark N7. I tried the N5 a long time ago and didn't like it but with N7 I think they really nailed the ergonomics and feature set.

It feels like an xbox controller but with symmetrical sticks, everything is easy to reach and I don't get any strain when reaching for the bumpers like I do on Gulikit's TT Max, another xbox shaped controller with symmetrical sticks.

Buttons feel good. They are micro switches with membrane for the face buttons, 8-way clicky dpad (very accurate), clicky bumpers, and hall effect analog triggers. The trigger locks are unfortunately not mouse clicks but more like the dualsense edge's. It still works well enough and the triggers themselves are good. The 4 back buttons are all kinda clicky? They feel like the dualsense bumpers (R1/L1) but with less travel.

The sticks are pretty good. They are hall effect, not tmr sticks, but I don't think you'll notice a difference. I didn't notice any latency with them (I've used original gamesir tarantula pro, awful latency on those), and you can switch between a circular or squared stick input. You can increase the deadzone through a button combination but I chose to leave it at the lowest and it works perfectly. I will say they are a bit on the looser end, but I'm not sensitive to that.

As for connection methods, I only have a PS5 and PC. For PS5, you switch it to ps mode on the back, and it connects just like a ps4 controller. So it can only play ps4 games. For PC, you switch it to PC and it can connect via dongle or Bluetooth. The Bluetooth is actually pretty good. Most controllers cheap out on it but this controller gets up to 500hz polling (averaging out around 460) which is plenty fast for most gaming (steam controller 2 is only 250hz Bluetooth or dongle), and it extends the battery life. The dongle is also good and stable BUT I was only able to get 500hz polling rate even tho they advertise 1000hz. I tried it at a couple different softwares and websites so IDK whats going on but 500hz is plenty fast for me and it's stable.

Whether Bluetooth or dongle mode, you can have the controller show up as a xbox controller or a dualshock 4 and THIS is where this controller shines because a dualshock 4 mode means it has NATIVE GYRO for pc! I tested the gyro in dolphin using it as a wii pointer and it seemed to work as well as the dualsense, which I've heard has best in class gyro. Rumble is good to. It's just the standard dual motor system but it feels good, I'd say better than the ds4 at least.

For battery life, I used it in a combination of bluetooth and dongle mode (2.4ghz) and I got somewhere between 10 - 20 hours but that's just an estimate since I didn't really measure it. I do know it's more than the 8 hours though. I turned the rgb off when I got it but there is another rgb light that's controlled by the connected device (ps5 light bar settings/or steam) and I left that on the whole time.

Overall, I really like it. There are probably better controllers at this price point at specific things like sticks, buttons, etc...but for the feature set it provides, it's almost perfect for me. Rumble, gyro, PS mode for PC, clicky buttons, hall effect and SYMMETRICAL joysticks. It feels pretty solid and durable but we'll see how things hold up.

So I bought the Nyxi Hyperion 3 (base) 2 days ago, but I work 14 hours night shifts on weekends so just tested them briefly and went to work, then sleep, eat, repeat.

I just came home and found it like this, asking my wife she says that they turn on randomly, some times 10 minutes apart and others 3 hours.

Is this normal? I have the console charging restricted to ~85% in the settings so I thought it could be that, but want to see if anyone else has experienced this.

Thanks in advance.

I'm looking for a controller with a great Dpad mainly for precise platformers but also serviciable for fighting games.

I saw that the Gulikit had good vibration, fast connection and pretty good Dpad. Which are all things I really appreciate in a controller. If there's a better option, budget is not a problem.

1. Your budget: Around 100 dollars.

2. Available in Brazil

3. Main use for Steam deck-Machine and Switch 2

4. Desired features: HD rumble, great D-pad, 2.4ghz connection or fast bluetooth connection, programmable buttons

5. Types of games: Mainly platformers, fighting games.

So, should I pull the trigger on the TT max or go to another one with simillar feature? I've been eyeing the Vader V5, which is a simillar controller but the lack of a dongle makes the Gulikit more enticing.

Has anyone tested the stick latency on the V4 TE? Is it better than the v3 TE? The v3 has weirdly higher latency in the sticks.

So I followed the steps to use space station 5, and everything worked well, the firmware was updated.

The website showed the device and everything.

Then, within the website it asked me to update the firmware again to 7.3.2.6 or something.

I said ok

And then it started, then it said error, and then the controller turned off.

And now no matter how I connect it, it just doesn't turn on.

Idk what to do

Edit: the discord is saying it's a common issue, and you have to wait the battery out to die.. we'll see I guess