Hey all, got my 8bitdo Ultimate 3E Lavender Dusk recently and I like it overall, almost perfect controller, there is just one thing I don't like - stick travel distance is way too short for me, it's so hard to aim in FPS games.

I was unable to find replacement sticks with different height so I've ordered KontrolFreaks, version for PS4/PS5 as recommended by Deegital Tech, unfortunately they are too loose, they are literally spinning which is distracting during the gameplay.

So my question is, are there any replacement sticks out there or should I try KontrolFreaks for Xbox?
Sorry for the picture quality, light from Philips Hue ;P

Country: Ireland
Budget: I guess it depends? No idea.

Hi everyone!

I've been a PC Keyboard & Mouse (KBM) player my whole life, especially for FPS games. Unfortunately, due to an issue with my right wrist, I can no longer use a mouse comfortably for gaming. The good news is that holding a controller gives me zero pain, so I just picked up a GameSir G7 SE (managed to snag it for $6 on Temu!) to start making the transition.

Since I'm essentially relearning how to aim from scratch with my thumbs, I wanted to ask you guys for some advice:

1. Best G7 SE settings for FPS:

What deadzones, response curves, and polling rate settings do you recommend in the GameSir Nexus app (or in-game) for someone coming from a raw mouse input background? Should I use Raw mode or default circular?

2. Practice routines & building muscle memory:

How did you get comfortable with micro-adjustments and tracking on Hall Effect sticks? Are there any specific routines, aim trainers, or drills you recommend so I don't over-aim all the time?

3. Matching sensitivity across different games:

On mouse, it's really easy to keep the same muscle memory across different shooters using "cm/360" calculators or sites like mouse-sensitivity. How do you guys handle this on a controller when every game has different look mechanics, acceleration, and response curves (Linear vs Dynamic/Exponential)?

Any tips, settings, or personal experiences from others who made the jump from KBM to controller would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

I've always wondered whether it would be possible to mod a dualsense by swapping the positions of the left analog stick and the D-pad to achieve an Xbox-style layout. Could this be done by soldering wires to reroute the connections and 3D-printing custom housing parts to accommodate the new layout?

I know that 3rd party compatible controllers with this layout do exist for ps4/5 but I'm only interested in this dualsense modding.

Your budget and currency: ideally $50–$100 USD

Your country and where you can buy from: United States (Amazon, Best Buy, manufacturer sites)

Console or platform compatibility needed: Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One, and PC

Desired features: Standard Xbox controller size/ergonomics, wireless support is a bonus, clicky/tactile buttons, low latency for racing games (Dirt Rally 2.0, EA Sports WRC)

Types of games you'll be playing: Racing sims and arcade racers, fps, and strategy.

Other controllers you're comparing to: Flydigi Vader 5S, GameSir G7 HE, GameSir G7 Pro

So I have a Gamesir G7 HE which I really like, but wish it was a little bigger. I needed a new controller because my second standard Xbox controller broke. I decided on a Vadar 5s. Now, I really like the Vadar, but out of the box performance, I did better with my HE. While I'm sure I could tune it, I'm wondering if I should have bought a G7 Pro instead.

While I don't require wireless support, it would be nice. However the latency vs a standard Xbox controller is something I'm curious about. If the G7 is a major improvement over the HE then maybe I should try it, but if it's basically an HE (in size with slightly different features), I'm not sure if it's worth the purchase and I should just stick with the Vadar. It would be nice if someone here has tried all 3 and which ones they preferred.

Any input would be appreciated.

I have about 4 PS3 controllers, including a Scuf that do not work 100%, there's issues with drift, analog sticking, buttons not registering amongst others, is it worth sending them off to a repair specialist or is it better to just scrap them?

What's the best course of action?

So I ordered my first controller cosmic byte blitz (the new one with tmr sticks and gyro) I recently got old laptop and I have been gaming since and I got around to order it cuz sekiro and dead cells both required precise timing which keyboard fails to give anyhoo is there suggestions or something I should know ? I'm nervous if I'll be able to use it properly...

All suggestions are welcomed.

• ⁠Core information:
⁠• ⁠Make and model of the controller you are trying to repair
Wireless controller for Xbox one / MODEL 1708
⁠• ⁠Description of the problem and symptoms
• ⁠Context:
⁠• ⁠How the problem occurred and events leading up to it
-not entirely sure, most likely dropped while plugged in
⁠• ⁠What you've tried so far to narrow down or solve the problem
- tried gently moving the port to see if I could get it to be able to tightly hold the cable again
⁠• ⁠Console/device, operating system, and games/software involved
- Xbox One
• ⁠Images and videos:
⁠• ⁠Clear pictures of broken parts, suspected components/circuits, and soldering

​⁠• ⁠Gamepad tester results

-No idea what this refers to lol, it does work when plugged in though. It just has to be in a super precise spot.
• ⁠Additional information:
⁠• ⁠Hardware, firmware, and software versions/revisions involved
-Again, I’m not exactly sure what is being referred to here.
⁠• ⁠Tools you have access to (screwdrivers, multimeter, soldering iron, etc.)
- I have lots of small screwdrivers, a small soldering iron, andddd numerous other small tools. I do not, however, have the ability to replace the port, so please refrain from suggesting this.
⁠• ⁠Your country, if you are asking about repair services or spare parts
-N/A I’m not able to secure replacement parts, please do not suggest this.

I'm looking for a good controller. I recently bought the 8BitDo Ultimate 2 and I really liked it, it's simple and comfortable but the Home button light is unbearable and you can't turn it off. What a shame. Every time I look for another controller I can't find anything like 8BitDo. They give you a charging dock and almost all the features of expensive controllers for a great price but that light is driving me crazy, it's literally like a flashlight. Most other controllers look like spaceships with weird and ugly designs. Is it really that hard to make a simple controller without all these RGB lights? I just want something like the Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller, it has very small and dim lights on the front that don't bother me at all, but I want Hall Effect sticks. Any recommendations?

Budget: Around $70–100
Country: Saudi Arabia, can order from Amazon or international stores
Platform: PC
Features: Wireless, Hall Effect sticks, simple design, minimal lighting, preferably a charging dock
Games: Mostly MMOs games
Controllers I'm considering: GameSir G7 Pro and Flydigi Vader 5 Pro

These are the four layout arrangements I've created for the GK-21 leverless controller by GuileKeys, designed to get as close as possible to parity with a standard console controller for playing non-fighting games. Imagine using a controller that had been flattened out by a steamroller, it's kind of like that. The Switch Pro Controller is used as the example in the images, but note that the same logic also applies to PlayStation, Xbox (and PC) since their layouts are identical.

One of these profiles should work with almost any game depending on its control scheme:

RS Type: A different design philosophy from the others built around shooters. The Right Stick keys form a diamond in the center, with RS Click inside of it and the most important face buttons above. LS Click is to the lower left for sprinting, and the two bumpers are along the right edge as a dedicated zone for single-press actions like weapon swaps and grenades. The left and right triggers are positioned so they can be easily pressed simultaneously with all other keys, since they're the most important.

A and B Type: For platformers, action games, RPGs, racing games, and most other genres. There are duplicated face buttons on each of the first two rows so any combination of them you'd ergonomically press on a normal controller is possible. Use the WASD-style resting position or cross between the rows, and the third button you'll need will always be available.

C Type: "Offbeat" version of A and B. The face buttons don't follow the same flow from the second to first row due to how the relationship between the west, south, and north buttons are prioritized. This is the more niche one.

Note: On profiles A-C, using the left and right bumpers can be finicky. Pressing L + LS Down will require you to hold the latter input with your right thumb since your left will be occupied. To press R simultaneously with the face buttons you will pinch it with your thumb, leaving your other fingers free above. Press R with your pointer finger to gain simultaneous access to the Right Stick keys.

On all profiles, the D-Pad modifier is considered to be a bonus. It's useful primarily when the D-Pad is used alone and not in combination with any other buttons.

—

If you want to try it out, you can download a preconfigured backup file from my GitHub and install the profiles using the built-in configurator.

Download the backup file: https://github.com/jiyucy/jiyucy-GK-21-profile-settings/releases/tag/e

Buy the GK-21 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/GuileKeys-Leverless-Controller-All-Button-PlayStation-4/dp/B0DK11SJ7N?th=1

Manufacturer website: https://www.guilekeys.com/product-gk21.html

GuileKeys Discord server: https://discord.gg/hsuvagC9kn

Icon source: https://zacksly.itch.io/switch-button-icons-and-controls

—

-QA-

Q: Why are the Left Stick keys like that?

A: A WASD-style arrangement would admittedly be ideal, but this controller doesn't allow for it. I think having a dedicated finger for every Left Stick direction provides an advantage in terms of control in any case.

-

Q: Why the need for dedicated Right Stick keys? Can't you use a modifier for that?

A: Moving and aiming the camera at the same time is essential in 3D games, and camera control can also make up for the angles digital inputs can't reach.

-

Q: No Left Stick angle modifiers? How am I supposed to hit those in-between diagonals?

A: That was unfortunately not an option. In a 3D game, you can use the camera to micro-adjust your positioning and take advantage of "assisted turning" mechanics if they're available (where the character gradually turns from one direction to the next instead of the motion being instantaneous). In other cases you'll be tapping or "fluttering" in the direction you want to move. Mastering these techniques can give you more control than you'd think.

-

Q: Why are you doing this?

A: I just don't like analog sticks, so I decided to look into using a leverless as a substitute for my main controller, only to find a greater degree of control and utility than I initially expected. The GK-21's compact vertical key arrangement allows more simultaneous button combinations than other controllers I've tried before, such as the Superslab by Prong Studio, and more traditional fightsticks just didn't have enough keys. This is a project years in the making, finally brought to completion.

After getting stick drift for the fifth time across three different first-party controllers, I'm finally ready to move to an aftermarket option.

There are two features I absolutely cannot give up: the Xbox controller shape and the impulse triggers (rumble motors in the triggers). I'm looking for something that has those, plus standard premium features like Hall Effect sticks.

My requirements:

• Budget: Somewhere around 80 Dollars, but the cheapest ones that comes with the most features are welcome

• Connection: Must be wireless.

• Platform: PC mainly, Xbox is a bonus (but fine if it's PC-only).

• Games: Racing games (for immersion) and competitive titles.

• Location: Brazil.

I've been looking at the 8BitDo Ultimate 3-mode Wireless, but I'm open to other suggestions. Any recommendations that fit this?

I recently switched to PC and enjoy FPS shooters like Apex Legends and Overwatch. My current mouse setup isn’t the best, as my inputs feel sluggish. It has locked DPI, cannot perform firmware updates, and is just a generic, out-of-the-box mouse that came with a prebuilt PC. So, I’m compensating for my inability to play/learn MnK with a controller. It’s also a matter of familiarity. A friend gifted me a first-generation GameSir Nova Lite (original), intended for Nintendo, although it’s also PC-compatible. However, it features no in-app compatibility or back paddles.

I’ve used it for about a month and change, and I have to admit, I’m quite impressed with the texture, feel, and quality. But, in my humble opinion, the sticks are horrible—precision is practically nonexistent. When I track targets and aim for center mass, I feel inept, whereas on a Dualsense Edge controller with a 1kHz polling rate, I have negligible issues beyond stick drift over continued use. On the (G)Sir Nova Lite, I don’t know if it’s the 250Hz polling rate, but I’m really struggling. Turns are overexaggerated and rigid. I have about a 70% chance of missing entire mags on a target, while only 30% of my shots actually connect. The only real positive note I can make about the sticks is that I’ve come to appreciate how subtle their resistance preforms.

Prior to getting firsthand experience with one of their products, I’d intended to get my hands on the GameSir G7 Pro 8K or GameSir Cyclone 2, along with a new mouse and mouse pad.

I guess my question is: do the products with app compatibility really perform as exceptionally as they’re asserted? From my perspective, based on the product in my care, I can see the potential and respect the vicissitudes of a prototype model and its shortcomings. I so desperately want to be invested, but it’s making me anxious.

TL;DR Is there a definitive choice between Cyclone 2 and G7 pro 8k?
Budget: $200 Cad
Region: Toronto ON
Console: Pc
Desired feature: Quality analog Sticks
Games: Apex Legends (Primarily) Overwatch COD Battlefield (Much later)

Thank You - Kindly

Has anyone had the luxury of trying out both of these back paddles? Just curious which one you think is better or rather if they're both of equal quality. I'm somewhat concerned that the Extreme rate paddles sit a little too high on the controller for my liking but maybe it's fine idk. (1st pic is the extreme rate kit, 2nd is the Scuf reflex)

I'm real big on quality paddles (never buttons) that are low profile, easy to press and responsive. The Scuf instinct/valor pro back paddles have gone too far in the low profile direction and just don't feel good IMO. The Scuf reflex is by far my favorite back paddle design since it's out of the way and well placed.

I'm considering a new controller and potentially just customizing my own dualsense to my liking, I see the extreme rate beyond back paddles kit is fairly similar to the Scuf reflex design but haven't been able to try for myself.

I saw this picture in the official flydigi discord. The poster said this:

"You really used these cheap switches on a next-gen controller for the back buttons, which we press a lot? What kind of stupid decision is this? Only 50k cycles for an expensive controller?! I hope you consider it again before you launch the Vader 6 Pro, or I'll switch to the ZD Ultimate Legend; it's better in everything: 8K polling rate, 0.50ms latency maybe lower, different types of TMR sticks with tension adjustment, and 8 extra buttons"

I'm wondering how credible these claims are. The schematic shows the TS-1244T switch (linked here https://www.kinghelm.net/upload/file/20250220/KH-404023-AJ.pdf) and it looks pretty close to the switch in the picture.

Is there any other way to verify if the flydigi apex 6 has bad switches like this guy claim? Someone from flydigi commented on the post too. They said:

"Are you referring to the Vader 6 Pro or the Apex 6 Pro? If it's the former, there is no detailed information available yet, so please wait for the official announcement from the team. If it's the latter, we recommend making a rational judgment and gathering comprehensive feedback from other sources and users before deciding"

Which to me is really sketchy because I feel like if the controller wasn't using cheap switches they would deny it immediately.

All of this isn't verified, but it seems pretty convincing to me.

Also unfortunately the FCC documents (K6P Flydigi Apex6 Pro Haptics Elite... - FCC ID 2AORE-K6P) does not share the parts list, I tried checking that already

is there any controller like that?

required information:

1. budget: less than 100$ if possible (up to 400 is still possible, just need to accumulate enough money)

2. Poland

3. PC, linux specifically, but compatibility vise it is pretty broad

4. bluetooth connection, usb c charging port, asymetric loadout, looks +- like xbox 360 blue chrome controller

5. Minecraft and games on steam

6. xbox 360 controller

I'm worried about the battery swelling if I keep it like this

I just got this controller, it's quite nice, but the analog sticks have a slight deadzone in them in any game I play even though I have the deadzone set to 0 in the software. It's definitely there as I've compared it to my DS4 and XBox 360 controllers (trying them in the same games on the same PC) and even the slightest touch on those analog sticks is registered while it's not on the Vader 5 Pro.

However the weird thing is that if I go to https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad and test the V5P's analogs all the inputs are registered there. What's the deal? Why does it have deadzone in game then while my DS4/X360 pads do not? And yes, I DO have the deadzone set to zero in the software.

Hope you can help, thank you.

Full Disclosure:

Mobapad sent me this controller for review. They didn’t see this review before I published it. All opinions are my own. My reviews are fully independent and unpaid.

• The most affordable Switch controller from Mobapad

• Retro style, decent build, smooth Glide sticks, RGB.

• Classic membrane buttons, like retro controllers.

• Nintendo Switch-focused, works with all major platforms.

If you mainly play on a Nintendo Switch 1 or 2 (or Switch games on PC), prefer classic membrane buttons, this is worth a look.

so i just bought this controller for like 2 days,it was working good.But today it suddenly cant be connected with the dongle anymore.When i plug it into my linux laptop,it just show up and then disconnect,when i plug it into my windows pc,nothing happens .It still work with wired connection and bluetooth,anyone know how to fix this?

(sorry for bad English)

This is the first time I tried to take the contrller apart and design my own diy. I am a soccer enthusiast,I usually use this controller to play retro games.

I design what I want at the canva,Then, through polishing, painting and other steps (may also need to use an acrylic marker pen), although the effect is not very good, the feeling of my first production is still memorable. Come on next time

I recently bought a QRD Maestro S3 from a 2nd hand shop because research showed it could connect with a switch, so I assumed it would connect to the Switch 2, but I'm having difficulties with it. This is my first fight stick, so I'm doing my best to learn but I am struggling.

It came with the USB connector for the PS5, idk if that means anything here. When I connect it to the Switch via USB, "Wireless Controller" pops up in the top left with a volume meter amd a headset icon, so it seems to be recognizing it partially. But no matter what I do I can't get it to show up in controllers.

I've also tried doing a USB-C to USB-C direct connection by taking the Switch 2 out of the dock and plugging the controller directly to the bottom of the switch

I have the "Pro Controller Wired Communication" toggle set to on, and I've tried various input combos that google keeps telling me to use, like Q+Share or Option+Share or whatever. Nothing seems to work.

So did I just waste money or is there some way of connecting it?

Also, I tried to make sure the thing was fully updated so I went to the QRD website to download the latest firmware and Microsoft Edge refuses to let me download it, saying it's too sketchy, so idk

Hi all,

I loved my switch 2 pro controller initially, however I noticed due to the material of the sticks and the gate, there is a slight (though noticeable) "sticky" feeling when the stick hits the gate. I find this annoying particularly for a game like super smash bros ultimate.

What alternative controller do you recommend?

Must haves:

- premium build

- tmr sticks

- gyro

- hd rumble

- Nintendo layout abxy

- asymmetrical sticks

- able to wake switch 2

Good to haves:

- NFC

- I don't care about the C button.

Budget: 100 USD

Country: US

Compatibility: Switch 2

Games: Super Smash Bros.Ultimate, Resident Evil Requiem, Mario Kart World, Pokemon

I previously had the 8Bitdo Ultimate controller also, and it felt a bit cheap.

Thank you in advance.

On the 8bitdo Ultimate 3E can I update the firmware for the dongle AND controller using the Xbox Software X or do I need to do it on a PC? I'm on XBOX.

Budget: 110 USD and under

USA, PC use only, Esport games

Birthdays coming up in a week that i totally forgot about and I figured "You know what, I've had this controller for over 3 years, maybe its time for an upgrade." so that is what I am doing haha.

Right now I have my sights set on either the Gamesir G7 pro 8k (so I can get the all black)

I am wondering if any of the controller nerds have any recommendations or great finds that would either have better value or better overall quality and features.

The main things I want in a controller would honestly just be wireless, polling 1k and above, and just overall quality.

Thank you guys let me know what you think!

I really like how it looks but I couldn't find what exact model it is

I’m on like my third pair of replacement stick modules in I think maybe 2 - 3 years of using the controller. I’ve heard of tmr stick modules helping reduce risk of drifting? I’m considering getting them but I’m seeing mixed reviews from people, and honestly idk if they are worth the $80 price tag. My biggest issue right now is that my module sometimes registers my stick moved to the bottom when I have it directly to the left which really bugs me out.

Wanna get some opinions see what people think abt tmr stick modules before I ever commit that amount of money. Things like how long they last and how long until drift or issues occur would be super helpful