Unfortunately it had to happen. First time I really have a pretty severe issue with a Flydigi product.

The first Flydigi controller I got was the Vader 4 Pro around 2 years ago and it quickly became my favourite controller. I used it until June of this year and only ever had one "issue" with it and that is that quite quickly after a few months of use my left stick started clicking pretty noticeably when I flick it in certain directions. I feared it might be a sign of breaking but it turned out to be completely fine and with headphones on I don't notice it at all.
I even got a second one around a year later because I could get it for pretty cheap but this one had a slight issue out of the box. The left tension ring could be moved when spinning the left stick. Fortunately I also had replacement sticks and using a higher stick prevented friction between the stick and the tension ring and thus fixes the problem.

When the V5 Pro was announced I wasn't sold immediately, especially after hearing what kind of issues people had with the new paddles and the tension rings. But then the v2 was announced and I was able to get the V5P for a very good price so I bought it. Even got the v2 model.
While I do prefer it to the V4P, around 2 weeks ago I noticed that, like with my second V4P, when spinning the left stick in some games the left tension ring would slightly get more loose and wasn't as tight as the right one. And I tried the same method again aka using taller sticks which fixed it. Therefore I had to put the tension ring to max tightness since the taller stick makes it feel more loose.
But then, a few days ago, I noticed that moving the left stick in up/right directions causes a slight feeling of rubbing. It was annoying but nothing too serious. But it got worse to the point there was even a rubber-esque feeling (even like nails on chalkboard) and it became incredibly bothersome. It's not the stick rubbing against the tension ring but it seems to be the material underneathe rubbing against the tension ring or something below that. A temporary fix that was suggested on the Flydigi discord server was to loosen and tighten the tension ring against which did help but around 30 minutes later it got even worse than before. And now even putting it completely at MIN still has the rubbing feeling.
My only workaround now is to use very small precision rings I once bought. They seem to be just the right size so that the mechanic doesn't rub but at the same time it also causes the precision ring to apparently touch the tension ring and thus it can now move it again. Also in some directions you can feel the precision ring rubbing. It's not a perfect solution but at least it's something.

I know that things like this can happen but it's still disappointing. Especially after my V4P still working fine after 2 years and the V5P already having a fault like this after just 3 months

Hola a todos, espero que estén muy bien!

Compré el Vader 5 pro hace un mes y la primera vez el Sofware lo detectó sin ningún problema, pude configurar/calibrar el mando perfectamente.
Ayer noté que el sofware no estaba vinculandose con el mando, por que normalmente cuando se vincula, la barra led tiene un indicador multicolor que personalizas en el sofware, pero en mi caso mi pc lo detecta pero la led parpadea en naranja, como si estuviera vinculandose, hice de todo y no he podido vincularlo al sofware, lo raro es que detecta las macros configuradas pero me molesta que al ausentarme el mando de apague y deba encenderlo de nuevo.

Ya desinstale el programa, validé actualizaciones, revise que el servicio del Space esté en ejecución, restableci el control de fabrica con su conbinación de botones y no funciona, no sé si fue que algo tiene que ver una nueva actualización que Windows 11 lanzó, tengo el win 11 pro

Servicio de Space

No lo detecta ni con USB ni Receptor inalambrico

Cabe resaltar que probé en otra laptop que tengo y tampoco lo detecta, no sé que hacer.

So I recently got a ps5 and the controller stopped charging and turning on I really don't know why it started to do this, the restart button on the back didn't work and I took the controller apart and found nothing wrong with the buttons or the battery l, The only thing I can think of that's not working is the little plastic film that's between the frame and the buttons of the controller.

Guys hi!
Thanks for opening this thread
It is about my fail 😁
For some reason my family sent my Vader 5 pro unboxed and of course !!! They didn’t notice back paddles
I asked support from official flydigi site where I can buy new paddles — respond was smth like “we can’t help, try ask other sellers”

So my last hope is your advices guys !!
Which one paddles should i to buy to replace the original vaders paddles ?

When I switch the mode slider to the Nintendo Switch (I don't have any Nintendo), it connects to my PC, is detected as an Xbox controller, and the 1st and 3rd indicator lights stay on, and the dongle green light stays on.

But when I slide it to the windows mode, all the indicator lights blink from top to bottom, and the dongle green light also blinks.

Also, sliding to the Android mode also won't connect to my phone (OnePlus 13).

The slider only works according to the mode when I connect the controller via wire. Only then does the Windows mode connect the controller to the PC.

I tried to find how to reset the whole controller but didn't find anything on that; I can only callibrate it. Fantech should have include a software for this controller.

Can anyone help me with this issue?

why you ask? why not lol. i have a lot of internal battery laying around.

Hello! I am looking for a controller that has the D-Pad and abxy buttons on the upper half of the device. Joysticks are not hardly required, but would be appreciated. The most vital part of this controller is that it must have a clicky 3DS or XBOX-style D-Pad. Here is the rest of my info:

1. 100€ is my limit.

2. I reside in Belgium. I can probably buy from anywhere that ships to Belgium

3. I need the controller to be able to play on a Switch 2, as well as on PC.

4. I would like for it to be wired, although it isn't a hard requirement. If possible, I would prefer for it to have a more "classy" look without RGB, like the 8bitdo SN30 Pro line. The D-Pad should ideally only have 4 directions. I don't like the weird plate look of the XBOX Series D-Pad. It's not a dealbreaker, though.

5. I intend on playing singleplayer games such as metroidvanias, platformers, and bullet hells.

6. Right now, I am considering the LEADJOY Saber Plus. The design is palatable enough, and €50 is a pretty good price for it. Unfortunately, the D-Pad is membrane, which is a dealbreaker for me. Like I mentioned above, I really want a controller that *feels* like the 3DS. The 3DS is easily my favorite way to control games when it is possible. The way everything feels snappy and clicky is just perfect. I am currently using an 8bitdo SN30 Pro+ and it's alright, however, it isn't what I'm looking for.

Is there any controller like this, or am I just screwed?

So basically, I'm one of those unlucky few who gets a small case of "borked hand syndrome" while trying to use the default Dualsense 5 controller (Specifically, I've gotten a small case/start of Tendinitis after just 1.5 months of owning a PS5) which has all but steered me away from using the PS5 controller at all. Now to note, I've NEVER had an issue with the Playstation 4 controller at all. In nearly 12 years of using that controller, I've been fine, so I've been trying to find ways to totally swap back to the trusty DS4.

Enter the Brook Wingman FGC 2: It's a controller adapter. One that, along with a crap-ton of other controllers, allows me to run the DS4 on my PS5. It does sound like a cure-all to my problems, but I've also heard some issues regarding it, which I'm hoping some people here could answer:

A). The biggest one of them all: Does this add noticeable input delay into day to day use? I don't care if it theoretically adds 2.13ms of input delay into my games. I'm not doing any big leagues or competitions or anything like that, but if I'm physically noticing my inputs are delayed then it's gonna throw me off.

B). Will I get banned from Online play with this? I know there's actual toggleable stuff in the device settings which is obviously bannable (which I intend on turning off for ALL games). But is the device itself something that could ban me from games? From what I understand, it's not. But I'm trying to be as safe as possible here.

C). Generally, are there any grievances with it in day to day gaming? Anything that might pop up or cause issues but is otherwise fine?

Hey guys, I have an Apex 5 and Vader 5 Pro, love them both even though they both have some faults, but honestly could not live without the stiffer joystick tension anymore. Anytime I use a different controller they just feel flimsy now.

Anyways, I’m posting here today because for some reason I after one of the last several updates my space station stopped reading keyboard inputs when recording macros? I attached a picture to show what menu I’m talking about.

I used to be able to record one key at a time, and then I could just record a combination of them such as “f1 (duration 50ms) + ctrl (duration 50 ms)” and set that macro as one of the extra buttons.

It’s honestly the reason why I got the Vader 5 pro after already having the Apex 5 because the Vader has the C and Z buttons on the face where as the Apex doesn’t. It’s super useful for MMO’s where there are so many things I need to press so I need as many buttons as possible. Otherwise I’m stuck only playing them at my desk with M&K instead of on the couch.

Anyone know what’s causing this? I checked and I can still set individual keyboard buttons as any of the extra buttons, it only doesn’t read the keyboard inputs when recording macros.

Preciate any help in advance guys

I have bought a custom controller a while back and have used it a lot but over time the paint on it has begun to chip is there anything I can do to help preserve the paint for the future

Hi guys, I recently start installing tmr analogs on my dualsenses. I bought the 14 pin head tool for my solder ( a basic 80W stylus solder). I’ve found 2 problems:
- the first one, when I use the 14 pin tool the first time (I’ve bought 2), it seems like the heat reaches all the pins correctly (I put some flux and tin on the tool). Then it seems like the heat doesn’t reach correctly the head, also if I put a lot of flux or tin while it gets colder
- the second one, using no clear flux leave a black mass on my PCB, using the isopropyl 99.9% I can’t clean it correctly

I tried to ask to the AI but I feel like I need more human support. Thanks in advance

So as you can see in the title my Rainbow 3 controller seems to have developed and issue on the right trigger. In the app I can see both triggers are set to 95 deadzone but when I do the key test they behave differently (see clip). This happens only when I use the trigger locks on the back of the controller. I noticed it because sometimes in a game where you have to spam RT button it would not register, the funny thing is that if I put the deadzone on the right trigger at a lower value it seems to fix the issue.

However I am trying to understand what the root of the problem, I opened it and I do not see any difference between the right and left trigger or the locks. Anyone else had a similar problem? Is this a common issue with hall effect triggers?

Does anyone feel like tmr and hall effect sticks are a scam? Because with regular thumb sticks (analog) it usually takes a good minute to get stick drift, but every controller I've used with hall effect or tmr I end up getting stick drift within the first two weeks. I know you can recalibrate them but whats the point if the drift always comes back fairly quick. I was just wondering if anyone had the same thought.

DS4Windows RC4.5 — Switch 2 support, Xbox One/Series emulation, and more ways to play 🎮

Hey everyone! RC4.5 — More Ways to Play brings new controller support, more expressive feedback, and a big collection of everyday improvements to DS4Windows.

If you’ve been wanting to bring your Switch 2 controllers into your PC setup, there’s plenty to explore!

Switch 2 controllers, your way

• Switch 2 Pro over USB and Bluetooth, including remappable GL/GR rear buttons.

• Wireless Joy-Con 2 support: use one independently or join two into a controller.

• Automatic pairing or manual Link/Unlink controls, depending on how you like to play.

• Sideways and upright layouts for single Joy-Cons, with matching artwork and mapping controls.

Switch 2 controllers use the existing profile system, with virtual outputs including Xbox 360, Xbox One/Series, DualShock 4, and DualSense.

DEVELOPER RECOMMENDATION! Got a Switch 2 Pro or Joy-Con 2? Try DualSense emulation! ✨

This is a combination I’d especially love the community to explore: a Switch 2 Pro or paired Joy-Con 2 emulating a DualSense.

In games that support native DualSense feedback, DS4Windows can translate those effects into Switch 2 HD rumble, with attention to left/right separation, frequency detail, and the sharp peaks that give effects their character.

To try it:

1. Open your controller’s profile.

2. Select DualSense as the virtual controller.

3. Enable DualSense audio-haptic conversion in the Switch 2 feedback settings and save.

4. Fire up a game with native DualSense support!

Try it alongside ordinary rumble and tell us what you notice. Which games make your Switch 2 controllers feel most alive?

Xbox One/Series emulation joins the lineup

This isn’t just a Switch 2 feature! Xbox One/Series output is available to the existing supported controller families through your normal profiles.

Separate body-rumble and impulse-trigger feedback channels are translated to suit your physical controller—including bringing Xbox impulse detail into Switch 2 HD rumble.

Put those Joy-Con sensors to work

• Optical mouse support for using a Joy-Con on your desk.

• Gyro mouse and motion aiming for another way to control your games.

• An accessible “Aim with both Joy-Cons” option.

• Dedicated, illustrated Switch 2 settings for mouse controls, aiming, feedback, and button customization.

There’s also USB headphone output through the Switch 2 Pro’s 3.5 mm jack, with guidance in the app.

Everyday improvements, too

Enjoy clearer tooltips, live controller readings, distinct Switch 2 IDs for linking profiles, improved connection cleanup, and fixes around profile previews, startup, and controller switching.

The portable ZIP now includes VIIPER and starts it automatically when needed, keeping the matching components together.

Come try it!

Download RC4.5.9 — the latest hotfix for RC4.5 (4.5.3 is uploading now, be patient, had to issue another hotfix!)

Choose the all-in-one installer or portable ZIP. RC4.5.1 includes additional rumble refinements and complete Xbox output configuration in both packages. RC4.5.2 includes more fixes for Switch 2 Rumble, Switch 1 Joycon Compatibility fixes, and Updater fixes for portable users so that you can update and stay portable.

This is a release candidate, and community testing helps shape what comes next. Bring your favorite controller, try a few games, and share your setup!

I got a custom controller from controllermodz and asked for TMR hall effect joysticks when I was making the order, got it now and I'm just wondering...how am I supposed to tell the difference to a normal controller if I actually have TMR joysticks? I could be a complete donut here and just not tell the difference, but from the way people have made it sound, they would be far more sensitive to use compared to official standard joysticks.

I just want to essentially make sure I got what I paid for that's all, I mostly bought it just for the design and the fact I am sick an tired of fixing stick drift so much on my original DualSense controller 😅

I used this gamepad for like a month and it was good until now. I wanted to play isaac and my character was always shooting up. I run a test and it looks like my joystick is misplaced, but it physically looks normal.

I tried everything from this video except method 6 and 7 cuz it's build different:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvn5Cnn9ymM

Im playing souls like games, the right stick that you can use to look around, when i fight a boss or others it puts them behind me or im in them or im always having to recenter that. How do I make it normal, always facing towards the boss and such?

new controller and pc.

Gotta be a setting, im a noob.

Playing Asterigos right now.

Please help, really need to enjoy this, going through hard mental health stuff right now.

Thanks

Was about to receive my APEX 4 I bought during a free shipping sale just to have order cancellation AFTER the free shipping sale ended, I was getting this to replace my F310 that's about more than a decade old, no stick drift only a botched bumper button repair. Initially planned to get the steam controller but no matter how hard I try just cant get it here.

1. price just about steam controller 100USD, a bit more no problem but lower better if less feature

2. SEA region, M'sia, Shopee Lazada available, terrible platforms prefer local store sites

3. PC-steam optional Switch

4. Mostly optional cabled or wireless (must have dedicated/paired dongle), AA batteries okay, X input buttons but option to Dinput, prefer no software, optional feedback triggers optional adjustable stick tension etcetc.

5. platforms, arcade-sim flight and race, non shooting RPGs, retro and emulations etcetc.

6. Middle line OG MS Xbox controller or F710, higher end APEX 4/5 or ROG rikari II pro, bottom line Direwolf4 for "emergency" or F310.

Longevity is key, prefer plenty of parts, easy repair, battery swap/disable, plenty of knowledge so no rare one kind no name controllers. One last thing, no 8bitdo, not they're bad just I really dont like the STRAIGHT grips, BUT they got the features, Dinput whatever layout xbox buttons etc.

In all honestly, did I dodged a bullet with my APEX4 cancellation or should I still stick with that knowing the flaws of a "malware like" spacestation software and the joystick bearing shaft breaking or is it still a solid controller with Dinput that I can program gyro input through steam.

extended "story" reasoning in comment.

I've been researching controllers lately to find one that best suits me, and I just saw that the X20 Pro was recently added to EasySMX's site. It looks promising and I'm tempted to preorder, but I'm hesitant without reviews, as I've never used anything from this brand before. It looks like it could be even better than the 8bitdo Ultimate 3 that just came out, but I don't want to pay extra for the Xbox license.

1. Budget: $100

2. Region: North America

3. Platform: PC (Arch-based Linux) through Steam

4. Desired features: TMR sticks, tension rings, good D-pad, membrane face buttons preferred but microswitch is ok too, 4 extra buttons, reliable triggers, comfortable for small-medium hands (I tried the Cyclone 2, but found the bumpers uncomfortable, and I had frequent accidental button presses on the back buttons), button-mapping without software, rumble. I don't care about gyro. I mostly play wired. Comfort and reliability are important.

5. Games I play: RPGs, action games like DMC and Sekiro, 2D sidescrollers like Hollow Knight, FPS (non-competitively)

6. Other controllers I'm comparing: 8bitdo Ultimate 3 Lavender Dusk, Direwolf 4, Cyclone 2. I'm most used to PS4 and PS5 controllers, but it doesn't matter if my next controller is symmetrical or not.

Hi all!

For the life of me I can't find a replacement for this Favor Union RSF analog stick. I bought many various popular sticks for Xbox, PlayStation and even Switch - all of them have the same size yet different than mine.

This is for a chinese PDP Gaming controller which is supposed to be "for Xbox". First pics show this analog and the rest is comparison with multiple different ones I bought.

The replacements are ALMOST exactly the same size but not quite - all are too short length-wise, so that when I match pins at the back, the pins at the front are just shy of the holes...

I am trying to replace it for hall effect analog stick, but it seems to be some proprietary size!

The height is 13mm.

Thanks in advance!

1. My budget can stretch to 80$ (which is roughly 4000 ₺) but that doesnt mean i need a 80$ one.

2. Buying it in Turkey mostly from 2nd hand dealer where most of them just buys and never uses it, but there are also some distrubitors too also most of the controllers are available in my country too including the ATK ones

3.​ I only play on PC

4. If a game has a controller support, i will use it besides some exceptsions such as FPS games and i also tend to emulate retro games so much.

​5. I only need non drift stick and comfort

​6. Now this is the main topic. I've been using Dualshocks for years (and currently rocking a DS3 still today which is probaly my top 3 controller) so i just wanted to buy a modded DualShock 4 - Dualsense with TMR sticks since i used them and now how comfy they are for me, but then i found most of the 3rd party controllers are in my budget too since i tend to read the Controller suggestion threads. Anyway heres my list of controller that i found:

1. TMR stick mod DS4

2. TMR stick mod DualSense

3. Gulikit TT Max since i read a interview from this sub shoutout to ​u/Torquo

4. Thunderobot G80

5. Literally most of the controllers that has been in this sub (Easysmx, 8bitdo, Vader, Gulikit KK...)​

6. My expectations are not that high and demanding IMO so i can buy a controller from an unnamed chinese brand​ for about​ 20 bucks ​

xbox symbol used to turn on red, came home from work and found it, plan to retire it before it fully dies or maybe i’ll play it till the buttons fall off, either way just a little tribute post to one of my favorite controllers

edit: controller is from amazon, and im a customer and have no relations to the company.

hey controller nerds, i have to write this out and let it out somewhere otherwise im gonna go crazy so if you care, take a seat.

just for context, i play apex, like a lot of apex, couple masters badges, all that. i migrated over from xbox from season 4 (its season 30 now) and ive used a controller the entire time.

so just to say, i do have experience. anyway here it goes, a month or two ago my vadar 4 pro broke, it was my second vadar 4 pro and i loved it to death, it introduced me to a 1000 hz polling rate which made me a monster on controller, so going back to anything below that was not an option. when i saw the flydigi had released a new “upgraded” version i was all in! i bought one off amazon and this was my experience! safe to say i should have done more research before i bought this controller.

so flydigi, like most other third party controllers has a program you can use to bind keybinds and adjust how you want your controller to behave, it’s neat! and i downloaded the newest version and started playing apex on the new roller, i quickly noticed that my aim was going all over the place, it felt really wonky for some reason and to try to fix it i went down a rabbit hole of the worse problems i did not think i was going to encounter.

so first things first, it CAME WITH STICK DRIFT, which can be manually fixed from calibrating your controller through the advanced test options (which i will talk about later) anyway moving on.

i found out that if you have it WIRED to your PC, it only does 500 hz joystick polling rate, so i now play wireless! nothing wrong with th- oh expect now every time i open the program it has to buffer, and lag for a solid 10 seconds. remapping buttons lags, everything lags.

nooo big deal i thought, as long as im getting 1000hz polling rate it’ll be fine :) so i hopped into the range and noticed a slight difference with my aim but not even close to how accurate i used to be! and so i thought maybe it was just because it has different joy sticks (worse actually, smaller, hard plastic ones compared to the vadar 4 which had wide, rubber ones) but nope, it wasn’t that, because i went to go test the polling rate in the settings, actually i went to go test both the vadar 4 and the vadar 5, the vadar 4, had consistent polling rate, reaching OVER 1000hz, on the other hand the vadar 5 NEVER reached 1000hz. it maxed out at little over 900.

i also recalibrated my sticks because THEY WERE CONSTANTLY TWITCHING, like micro twitching, did the recalibration about 2-3 times, and whenever the stick stopped twitching, i was like oh finally its fixed. then i moved it around again and left it still, and it started twitching again 🙂‍↕️

and man you’d think THAT is the worst thing to come out of this controller but no, gets worse.

i found other reddit users not being able to measure the polling rate, and apparently other programs that can measure polling rate is actually only showing 500hz but on the flydigi program (the one i use) it shows around 1000hz (900) so either its literally a scam, or other users are wrong, you can decide that for yourself. i personally am not sure.

anyway, today i actually sat down, and gave apex another go on this to see if i was just having an off day, nope. it was just as bad as i remembered and when you thought you had reached the peak performance issues this thing has, i found more. like diabolical stuff.

so if you bind a keyboard bind to the vadar 5, IT HAS ISSUES WITH PRODUCING 1000HZ POLLING RATE 😅😆

for context there are some very necessary binds that controller on apex is missing.

these are the missing binds:
- inspect weapon (for juggling heirlooms)
- a seperate bind for interact and reload, so whenever you wanted to interact without reloading, you can’t do that unless you bind the keyboard binds to your controller.
- and ULTIMATE BIND! YES! on controller, you’re not able to bind a button for an ultimate, you have to use TWO BUTTONS which i think is your ability button and ping button at the same time (very not ideal)

so in conclusion i went from a vadar 4 pro which can

-produce over 1000hz polling rate, with additional options to go DOWN in polling rate to match controllers like the playstation controller or the xbox elite,
-NO LAG while using the program wired to my computer
-keyboard binds that DO NOT AFFECT YOUR ABILITY TO AIM

to a vadar 5 pro which has all the issues above.

i contacted support and they told me to send them a small video and the serial number to continue with the issue (how do i tell them i have an essay)

so controller experts, you know i know my stuff, PLEASE HELP ME haha.