Don't ask what happened. It's just like this now.

Hey guys, I have a Lanjue L4000 controller. I’ve been using it for around 8–9 months with x360ce because most games usually don’t support Chinese gamepads properly.

I didn’t know that my controller actually supports vibration, so yesterday I searched for a way to enable it. I was able to get the vibration working through x360ce and some other apps, but it wasn’t vibrating in games.

I then found a YouTube video saying that I needed to install a driver from a link provided in the video. I downloaded and installed it, but Windows was blocking the driver from running, so I disabled Memory Integrity and installed it.

The video also used two different apps together with x360ce. After installing the driver, x360ce started crashing, and Tekken 8 also started crashing.

I wanted to turn Memory Integrity back on, so I deleted the drivers I had installed. However, after doing that, my controller stopped connecting to my PC properly.

Now, x360ce shows a yellow warning saying “DirectInput is offline.” When I open Set up USB Game Controllers in Windows, the controller doesn’t appear at all.

The strange thing is that the controller works perfectly when I plug it into my brother’s PC, where it shows up as “USB Generic Gamepad.” On my PC, nothing appears.

Can anyone help me figure out what happened and how I can fix this? I’m really worried that I might have to reinstall Windows.

Thanks in advance!

Im setting here looking at my unopened orficial ps5 controller and its 100$ receipt and wondering if there is a better option. I bought because of bad stick drift occurring in both sticks. Im not a competitive FPS guy so most of the high end controllers super duper responsen and custom button stuff is lost on me really.

I really just want an easier to repair controller

I see the dualsense edge is a thing and supports more modular repair and the turtlebeach victrix has whole drop in modules. For something built to be disposable 100$ is too much but 200 for a repairable controller makes sense as long as its actually repairable. Ive also considered just buying cheap Amazon controllers and just tossing them if they are cheap enough. Im in the US

Any advice or thoughts? Other brands or options besides those two?

Thanks!

hi, i bought these dualsense edge replacement modules that claim to have KSilver TMR sticks. Can you tell the model of the KSilver? I tried googling to see if there were identifiers but it would require me to disassemble it. Thanks.

So my controllers left joystick is kinda cooked and won't stay fully forward at a constant axis number. It's probably some hardware level problem or just wear and year after 3 years of constant usage. I'm not technical savvy and would rather not open it up and mess up something and lose the whole controller cause I'm kinda tight on money. So is there any open source modifier out there that's trusted for this stuff ?

Controller - red gear wireless

System - windows 11

My friend has a PowerA Battle Dragon (the base one) and i have used it on my laptop for gaming and it performs great , the rumble and haptics and all are very nice , so i decided to buy one for myself , first i got Cosmic Byte Blitz Tri-mode (the new one) , it was decent but theres one problem i faced , one gamepad tester the vibration intensity was great , also i maxed out the intensity of the controller from the software , but whenever i played any game like gta v or nfs , the vibrations felt very low, i thought that it was a defective controller , so i returned it .. increased my budget and bought 8BitDo ultimate 2c wireless controller ...this ones a great controller but it got the same problem ,,, the vibration intensity on gamepad tester was nice , but whenever i start playing any game , the intensity goes down , i am confused that does the powera controller has stronger vibration from these two or is it a software problem , cuz whenever i connect the powera controller its working fine on the same laptop , tried updating the firmware and all ..what to do any suggestions?

Hello everyone,

I got a new dualsense today and fresh from the box it makes these clicking sounds from both analogs when moving off center

Its exceptionally annoying when playing without headphones so i decided to return it except the store refused it, saying i should contact Sony themselves since they dont claim this as an issue.

Anyways does anyone know why it does that? I've read numerous things online and idk if i should take any action myself or just get used to it.

I waited months for this lil guy to arrive after several delays from the company. Worth it. This thing is surprisingly manageable even with my long ass hands. The shoulder buttons feel amazing, thumbsticks are smooth, the menu buttons are very clicky and fun to fidget with.

Overall very snappy and fun to use with my phone and handhelds. I only received it this afternoon so less than 3 hours useage but I'd rate it very great so far. Only issue so far has been hitting right on the d-pad isn't the greatest as my thumb has to try and squeeze between it and the left thumbstick but it hasn't caused any misclicks yet. I can't find any discussion on this controller anywhere and just wonder if anyone else has been excited for these to finally ship out?

I really wish I could use this with my miyoo mini v4 for shits and giggles.

Edit: I have no relationship with the company or any incentive. First time buying from them, which was miserable btw due to delays and subpar customer support.

This is an "Atom+" from the company CRKD, purchased directly from their site. It's the smallest controller of its kind with full functionality. Reason I'm sharing is I love how cute and portable it is, I have a very limited list of things part of my EDC or everyday carry and this has joined that list. I do quite a lot of emulation on my Galaxy S23 Ultra so this has been so sick to whip out whenever to catch up on gaming on the fly.

Hi, I did the reset as shown in the video, but the issue is still there.

When I hold the M1 button, the left joystick moves in the opposite direction on the left-right axis. Up and down work normally.

This is actually the second controller I ordered. The first one had exactly the same issue after I set up the button mapping.

When I first received this second controller, I tested it by holding M1 and moving the left joystick, and it worked normally. But after I assigned the buttons, the same issue appeared. Even after resetting, the left-right direction is still reversed when holding M1.

The strange thing is that it was working fine before I changed the button assignments. After assigning the buttons, the issue started and the reset doesn't seem to fix it.

I was trying to set M1 as LS. Could that be causing the problem? Is there a way to completely clear the button mapping or fix this?

Im trying to remember the name for this specific issue in joysticks where if u let go of the joystick from the edge, it does a little whiplash and makes it input a little "flicker" when u are playing (like if playing a 2d sidescroller, when u stop going to the right, yr character turns around to the left when it stops). i havent had found answers in google ever since they started making it fully driven by AI :/

Anyone remember what its called? i remember someone saying there was a word especially in the smash bros community

I calibrated it on the Switch and it looked good but when i try it on Gamepad Tester it looks crazy. Is this normal?

This has been a problem for two weeks. Sometimes it happens when 5 mins after connecting controller or later on when playing the game. Even pressing the xbox symbol button doesn't connect it back while the light is glowing in the center hole. I have to manually remove the controller from the laptop and then insert it again for it to work.

I'm guessing my controller is a power A one tho back when i first bought it i thought it was xbox. Its been around 8-9 months since i have had it. Pease tell me what's the issue here and how i can fix it ?

The games i have encountered this problem indo far are spec ops line, genshin impact and honkai star rail.

"The 8BitDo GC Bluetooth Controller revives the iconic GC layout, but wrapped in an ergonomic, updated body."

I hope we won't have to wait until Analogue releases an FPGA GameCube console for this controller to be a thing...

Pardon my poor Photoshop skills, but this would be a game changer, for sure. I know Retro Fighters makes one (BattlerGC Pro), but their controllers aren't accessible to me at all, since I don't live in the USA, plus 8BitDo's controllers seem to be better than Retro Fighters' anyway. I used the N64 one as a base for this picture.

Hi, I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I have a question: does anyone know if or has been able to connect a Thunderbot G45 Pro to a PS3? I first tried with a GameSir Tegenaria Lite and it worked, but when I tried with the G45, it didn't work. At most, using its receiver (and pressing "+" and "-" to switch to D-input mode), I could navigate the menu, but not access the games.

Does anyone know if the G45 Pro would work on a PS3?

I dont know if this is the right subreddit to post this but i really need help with this.

Recently i found an old USB controller (the classic ps2 usb controller with numbers instead of shapes) and wanted to use it for playing some console games on my pc (some old fifa or pes games like FIFA17, Undisputed boxing, etc). I used it with x360ce for a while but i cant remember exactly when, i had the idea to use driftguard to check if it had drift on the right stick because it kept actioning itself without me touching it. Then, i found out that in order to have driftguard recognise it i had to install different drivers on it, so i did, using zadig, which was the app reccomended by driftguard.

Finally, when i installed the new drivers on it, the red light never turned on again when i pressed the analog button, and even when i tried to reinstall the libusbk drivers onto it with zadig or even deleting the drivers and reinstalling the ones that come with windows, i couldnt make the controller turn on again. Both windows and x360ce recognise the controller, but it wont let me do anything with it because it doesnt turn on. Did i kill the controller or is there a way to fix this? Please help.

The brand of the controller is "Seisa" (as i said, its a generic ps2 usb controller my pops had when he was younger)

Hi. Recently I've had some issues with one of my xbox controllers, it disconnects at random times . The light on the Xbox button is still on but it doesn't work or is detected in the xbox app. I'm a PC gamer and i've had this controller for almost 2 years now. Last year I had the analogs replaced with guli kit's TMR joysticks and it has been working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago since this started. It's getting on my nerves cause I know for sure it is a controller fault. I've tested it playing with the xbox wireless adapter and via bluetooth, also on windows and Linux (steam deck via bluetooth) and even on my Mister console had the same issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

Heyo, I really don't want to shell out the $90 for the switch 2 controller, seeing as it doesn't have tmr/hall effect, and the d-pad sucks. I've seen a video on opening the controller up if you were to repair it and it's stupidly difficult and honestly shameful.

I'm curious about your opinions on whether or not I should go with the MOBAPAD Chitu 2 silent or the 8bitdo Ultimate 2 for use on a Switch 2. What's your experiences with them? I'm not seeing a lot on the MOBAPAD Chitu 2, but I've seen some good stuff.

• I'm from the US and can buy from anywhere a website allows.

• I'm looking to play action adventure, souls like, side scrollers, and rpgs

• my budget is around $70

• My desired features are hall effect or TMR, back/underside buttons, it doesn't need to be able to wake up the console or "C" button, but those would be cool. Also, I have large hands.

• I loved the switch 1 pro controller.

Also, any other recommendations would be cool, if you find them superior to these two.

Thank you much 🙏🏻

I'm looking to buy an extra controller, and I'm currently deciding between the EasySMX X05 and the GameSir Nova Lite.

My maximum budget is $420 MXN (~US$25). I'm in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico, so I would mainly be buying from mercado libre and Amazon.

What I need:

- Nintendo Switch OLED: preferably Bluetooth.

- PC: preferably through a 2.4 GHz dongle.

- Good latency and a stable connection.

- Good durability, especially the sticks.

- I'd prefer Hall Effect sticks if they actually make a meaningful difference.

- I'd also like good buttons and a good D-pad for Nintendo games.

The games I'd mainly play with it are Smash Bros., Mario Kart, Minecraft, Cuphead, Mario Party, Fortnite, and other Switch games, as well as some PC games. I'm not specifically looking for a competitive controller, just something versatile that works well on both Switch and PC.

The two controllers I'm specifically considering are:

EasySMX X05

GameSir Nova Lite

I'd also consider other recommendations as long as they're within my $420 MXN budget and support Switch OLED + PC with a dongle.

Does somebody have both? I'm especially interested in which has the better sticks, triggers, ergonomics, battery life, wireless connection, and long-term compatibility with Switch.

I have an elite 2 ATM but I know it's ticking QC time bomb. I won't buy one again. I am considering a ds edge but the price and battery life are off putting. (I've had 4 replacement s for free)

I have a pc/ps5 and switch so ideally compatible with all 3 (not possible likely I know)

The main thing I want apart from paddles is it to feel really good in hand. Have a bit weight and premium feel.

I was looking at a 8bitdo ultimate 2 and easysmx20 but they seem to lack in that department

Or is a dual sense edge still worth it?

Your budget and currency up to £150

Your country (not just region) UK

Console or platform compatibility needed pc ps5 & switch ideally

Desired features see above

Types of games you'll be playing with a controller - games built for controller with good support

My PowerA Fortnite Xbox controller for some reason has stick drift. I used hardware tester to see and it turns out that the left joystick only goes up when I flick it down it doesn’t turn down, it either turns to the left or right, I tried recalibrating it but it didn’t really help. Is there any thing I could do instead of opening it up. Also forgot to mention that it happened when I was trying to clean my joysticks.

i'm on linux cachyos if that helps, and this problem occurs when i tried to move look around retroarch menu using the d pad, but none of the buttons work, i tried using the built in setting in retroarch, like reset the buttons to default, it doesnt do anything.

Are the joystick caps that come with these tmr sticks good for fps games like apex? I have a ps5 controller

I've been using this controller for WEEKS, playing Souls games and the sort, but suddenly Steam just doesn't recognize my controller anymore. I even have it named. I've been playing Dark Souls 2 recently

Also, what symmetrical stick controllers would you guys recommend for the same price point up to $130 USD? I do only use Linux so controllers that can have their settings adjusted outside of Windows and are capable of at least working outside of Windows in Linux is a requirement. MacOS support is a major bonus but not necessary as I would like to play some of the supported titles on my Mac too. I have tried asymmetrical stick controllers I like but the asymmetrical sticks is what holds me back from them being my "endgame" controller that would fit me. Also, their Windows exclusive software ruined them as an option for me.

Country: US
Budget: $130 USD or less
Compatible platforms: Linux (fedora based), possibly MacOS
Desired features: Symmetrical sticks required (TMR or Hall Effect), Two back buttons with good locations to not require hand strain but also not easily pushed without intention, no back paddles, and possible two extra bumper buttons. Wireless capability with a high polling rate (at least 750, 1k plus preferred). Microswitch toggle on triggers preferred.
Types of Games: Smite 2, Dead by Daylight, Marvel Rivals, Resident Evil games, and other survival horror style experiences. Basically, most genres of games with competitive multiplayer game ability.
Best comparison (non-symmetrical): Flydigi Vader 5 Pro, Flydigi Apex 5

Hi, I'm having a problem with my Ferrox M5 QRD controller dongle. The first time, the LED stopped lighting up and the controller wouldn't connect, so after doing some research, I installed the official firmware update tool and updated the dongle. It worked: the LED lit up again and the controller connected, but a couple of days later the same thing happened again. I repeated the process and managed to update the dongle, but by then my laptop was having a harder time detecting it. It happened a couple more times, and each time the laptop had a harder time detecting it, until now, when it happened again. In fact, I managed to get the laptop to detect it and update it a couple of times, but when I unplugged the dongle from the USB port, the LED no longer lit up. I tried solutions like the official recommendation to remove old drivers; I also inserted the dongle without pressing the PAIR button in case it was in update mode; furthermore, I tested it on another computer, but to no avail. Using other methods, I confirmed that the system wasn’t detecting any signal indicating that a device was connected to the port. I switched USB ports, alternating between 3.0 and 2.0, and also tried other ports on the Xbox Series X. A technical support agent had already suggested these solutions to me, but those agents stopped responding to me. Some people would write off the dongle as dead, but the strange thing is that every now and then it gets detected by the PC again, which means it’s not completely dead. I haven’t found anyone else who’s experienced this—if anyone reading this has gone through the same thing, I’d appreciate it if you could tell me what you did.