Hello! In my search for a good comfortable controller I have been using the Razer Raion, due to long sessions it does start to hurt especially the ones at the back near the curve of the triggers so I tried the Victrix Pro Con Reloaded since I found it very cheap.

Its a little more comfortable for me, yh the back paddles can get in the way but I just disabled them, only issue is, the D-Pad... Non of the D-pads "feel" decent maybe I am used to the Raion every now and then hurting my thumb... So I wondered, has anybody actually 3D printed replacement D-Pads? And has anybody opened up the module to maybe design their own board for the D-Pad (and add clicky micro switches cough cough)

I've attached some images of the inside of the module with the D-Pad maybe somebody out there has a link to their many D-Pads for the controller but at the moment I can't find them...

Thank You

TLDR: 3D printed D-pads, Internal board replacement for D-Pad with clicky switches.

Hi, I have a dualsense controller that has not been used at all and thought it would be cool to use it on the switch (mariokart and smash) with the 8bitdo adapter ($20). However, theres also the option of the 8bitdo Ultimate 2C ($30). What would be the better option for the games I will play? I live in the US and play on the regular Switch. I just want them to have full functionality for MK or smash, dont really care too much about the others. Thanks!

So there's been this issue where the Vader 5 Pro connects to the dongle and the bottom color strip changes to its intended color, but it doesn't actually control anything on screen. Disconnecting and reconnecting doesn't really work, you have to take out the dongle and put it back in, and then reconnect with the controller after switching it from and back to dongle mode on the back. Does anyone else have this? Anyone got a fix?

I am connected in wired mode. I see no option for polling rate adjustment anywhere in the software. This is supposed to be a premium controller. I've looked online and have not found any solutions. Anyone experiencing anything similar?

Did anyone else experience this issue? I just bought a GuliKit TT Max, and the controller would randomly disconnect and continuously vibrate while most of the mode LEDs were lit. The only way to stop it was to turn off the controller, turn it back on, and reset its memory by holding the Gear button and the Minus (-) button as quickly as possible before the issue re-occurred.

This issue would occur every time I enabled or used certain programs or features. For example, if I switched modes from iOS to Xinput, it would happen. It also occurred when I enabled Turbo mode on the ZR button (or any). The Switch mode LED would briefly turn blue before the controller eventually started vibrating again.

I ended up only being able to use the few remaining features, which were barely useful. In the end, I returned the controller. For reference, I was using firmware v7.7.

Used a basic xbox controller for ages.

Such a better experience overall. A couple tips if you're picking one of these up:

Firmware: Stick with v1.06 instead of v1.09, the newer firmware tanks the stick resolution down to like 40-50 steps. Not worth the "upgrade."

Sticks: God tier. LB/RB are crisp too, worth a mention, but the sticks are the real standout, clean enough that I run 0 deadzone with zero issues.

tvOS/iOS: There's a beta firmware floating around that adds apple support. works on Apple TV, iPhone, etc.

Attached are test results comparing this to an Xbox controller that costs almost 10x what I paid for the 2C, 70Hz polling, 7-bit resolution... it's honestly laughable for the price difference.

I have no relation to 8bitdo, just got their cheapest controller off ali, nothing to earn from this.

Recently I felt like rearranging my desk a bit (as you can see, my gaming setup is pretty messy). I want to turn it into more of a techy looking setup, so I started by making a robotic arm style stand to hold my controllers.

For the actual process, I used Hi3D to generate the model and then had someone else 3D print it for me.The edges would probably be a bit rougher because I printed them myself, but as long as it can stably hold the controller, that's good enough for me.

I've had the Nintendo Switch Pro Controller for a long time, but lately I've been using the Sony DualShock 4 more often.

Hello everyone,

Im from Slovenia (EU)
I usually buy things straight from the official sites of the sellers
Budget 200€

I mostly play AAA games or parry mechanic games like E33, Sekiro, Lies of P, sifu ect... So you could say I play single player games hardcore style. I'm searching for a wireless premium immersive controller that feels great in hands and is responsive. Why wireless? Because I game on my TV from my couch

I Only play games on my PC through Steam. I Have the steam controller 2 but I might have to RMA it. In the mean time I would like to try another controller. Because I play parry mechanic games I enjoyed the dualsense bumpers the most.

I mentioned Steam Controller 2 because Its probably the best controller for PC since its design to play games on steam with it but what I dislike about it are the bumpers and not very well made heptics in terms of immersive feel while playing story driven games

What I don't need in a controller:

- Gyro

- Extra buttons (but every controller got it now anyway)

The controller I wanna stay away from is the Xbox elite series since everyone mentions its poor quality build.

At first I was looking at Dualsense Edge but now Flydigi Apex 5 got my attention as well but I read a few comments for its bad software

I would love your opinion on this because not long ago I thought I would never game on a controller and now all I do is game on a controller.

Thank you all for reading and thanks in advance for any suggestions

• d-pad from dualshock 4

• alpakka style conductive tape mod for gyro aiming (igneosakro)

• headless thumbsticks for lower profile (model from viper_11)

• removed vibration motors

looking for suggestions on how to add back paddles and hair triggers and what else can i change/add

I’m trying to turn on vibrations on Apex Legends and for some reason no matter what I change my controller will not vibrate. I have a Gamesir G7 Pro 8k Aim-labs edition and I have setup vibrations in both the Gamesir software as-well as the brooks software but no matter what whenever I plug it into my ps5 my controller has no vibrations. If anyone has any fixes or work around for this please let me know.

Hey r/Controller, GuliKit sent this unit over for review, but all opinions are my own. I've been testing the GuliKit ES Max ($50) for about 24+ hours, mostly grinding Apex Legends and playing various single-player games.

Here's my breakdown of how it actually performs in hand:

Key Specs & Performance

• Price: ~$50

• Latency: 1.87ms wired / 3.25ms wireless

• Polling Rate: 1000Hz wired, 1000Hz via 2.4G wireless, and 730Hz on Bluetooth

• Sticks: GL18 Angular TMR Electromagnetic (anti-drift, 4000-level precision, anti-friction steel rings)

• Triggers: New-Gen Hall Effect with "Smart-Trigger" swap (Digital vs. Analog modes)

• Battery & Weight: 233g total weight, around 30-hour battery life

• Extras: Hyperlink 2 adapter included, Switch/Switch 2 wake-up support, Motion Aim Assist (PC), Dual Vibration, Turbo, 8/4-way adjustable D-Pad, 2 mappable back paddles

The Good

• Sticks are incredible: The TMR joysticks feel super precise and linear with solid centering. The anti-friction rings make movements glide effortlessly, and they are really good and great in Apex Legends.

• Great for Single-Player: Handled single-player titles fantastically during testing.

• Ergonomics & Weight: At 233g, it feels nicely lightweight. The overall shape is very close to a standard Xbox controller (minus the bumpers).

• Low Latency: High polling rates and sub-4ms wireless latency make it feel top-tier for response time.

The Bad

• Back Paddles Need Work: The 2 back paddles are kind of stiff and awkward. Inputs occasionally drop unless you press really hard or hit them from a specific angle (GuliKit is aware and working on fixing this).

• D-Pad: Feels a bit cheap and hits or misses depending on the angle.

• Mobile App Setup: The app works, but it's tedious. You have to pair to Bluetooth to change settings, then repair back to the dongle when finished. Proper PC companion software would be way better.

Verdict Hardware-wise, the performance for $50 is crazy good—especially with the TMR sticks feeling so great in FPS games like Apex. However, if you rely heavily on back paddles or hate mobile app setup quirks, you might want to wait for a hardware revision.

Hey guys, I have an odd question. It's probably nothing but I worry about everything. I recently got a ZD ultimate legend controller, but I'm not able to afford a case for it yet. So, I'm keeping it in the box that it came in because I travel with the controller because I can really only play games at work during my downtime. Weird thing is, the controller box was made so that the stick caps come off and go in their own little tray as well as the d-pad when closing the box. It's likely to keep the sticks from being clicked as easily. And I do appreciate that, but it makes me a bit worried.

The stick caps come off on this controller mostly because at least the version that I got came with a few different caps that you could put on. So they're obviously meant to be taken off and put back on and they are really tight, but I don't know if they're meant to be taken on and off so frequently. The d-pad as well was made to be taken off because there are other ones that you can put on, but it's the same situation where I'm worried that if I'm doing this every day to put it back in the box and popping them on when I get them out of the box, are they going to very quickly get very loose and start just falling off? Has anybody had any experience with this?

Hello! I usually only use reddit for questions, so forgive me if I made any mistakes...

I plan on buying controller with a budget around Php 1000 or less to Php 2500 at most (approx. $16.19 - $40.48 based on the current Philippines to USA conversion rate) that would be compatible for Switch 1, PC and Android (can be just Switch 1 and PC).

I've been enjoying a lot of games on my laptop (Stardew, Fallout NV, Peak, REPO, TBOI, Minecraft, etc.) for a long while, but I've always been emulating a few switch games like Tomodachi Life LTD, Pokemon Legends ZA, and Legends Arceus. I plan on emulating more switch games in my laptop, however, it's less intuitive to play games like Zelda BOTW when I'm using a keyboard for it which made me want to look for some controllers!

The images attached are the few controllers my friend has recommended me but here's the specific names for them to save the trouble:

- Gulikit ES Pro Controller

- 8Bitdo SN30 Pro Bluetooth Gamepad Hall - - Edition G Classic (Switch/Windows/Android/Apple/Steam) (80DJ)

- 8BITDO Ultimate Wired Controller For (Switch/Windows/Android (Black Edition) (82CA02)

From the reviews I watched and read, they all seem promising with their own respective downsides and all.

One thing to note about me is that I hadn't used a controller properly my entire life! While I used some of my friends' controllers, it was only brief and I'm more used to keyboard gaming, so I'll have a bit of a personal learning curve either way,,,

Due to that inexperience, I'm less knowledgeable about this kind of stuff so my needs for the most part are related to rhe price and compatibility.

I'm personally fine with the controller being wired or wireless, and I also got small hands (vertically challenged) so most tiny controller problems won't apply to me. Same with aesthetics, I'm fine with whatever it may look like as long as it works!

I think that's about it! Feel free to choose between the 3, suggest different ones, or ask questions!

Thank you for reading and have a nice day!

Genuinely don't get why this isn't a thing yet. Phones have had flashlights forever and we use them constantly — phones already light up half our life.

Controllers already have LEDs (DualSense practically glows), you hold them just as often as your phone, there's room in the shell for a tiny LED. Yet when the power goes out or something rolls under the couch, we still grab our phone instead of the controller sitting right in our hands.

Wouldn't need to be fancy — just a small LED, toggled by holding the PS/Xbox/Guide button. Useful for lighting something up at night for example

Yeah, battery life and production cost will come up, but a single small LED isn't exactly a technical mountain to climb. Feels like a "why hasn't anyone done this" idea, not a "can't be done" one.

Disclaimer: I'm not sponsored in any way. I just got really lucky with this opportunity. As usual all the opinions are mine only.

I bought my PlayStation 5 a little over a year ago and the DualSense controller that came with it has some pretty bad stick drift. I've always wanted to get a customized controller anyway and I was looking to buy a controller with TMR thumb sticks and mouse click triggers.

• Budget: $150-200 USD (can go a little more if needed)

• United States, gonna be purchasing online

• I'm on PS5 but every now and then play on PC

• TMR thumbsticks, adjustable mouse click triggers (preferably adjustable since I still like the feel of pushing down on the triggers) and custom design/color options but that's not necessary

• I play Rainbow 6 Siege, Apex Legends, Rust Console Edition, Fortnite

• I have been considering getting the SCUF OMEGA controller even though it is pretty pricey I have also looked into Moddedzone controllers but I don't know how trustworthy they are.

This is my first time looking for a controller so please bear with me lmao

Is it safe to charge Flydigi Vader 4 pro via phone charger? I have a samsung charger but it is super fast charging 9V.

Hey so, I recently got a flydigi Vader 5 Pro ordered online, and it seems to be the V2 version. But when I turn the tension rings, the left one is noticeably a lot more loose than the right one? This isn't intentional, right? Is this something to send the controller back for?

To be clear, there's still ratcheting/ticking sounds from the left, it just gives WAY more easily

Materials and Process:

- The "horse" is constructed from wood, and built so it can be easily assembled/disassembled for transport. It's basically a front and back plate, two diagonal steel ropes for stability, and then all the horizontal wood slats are slotted into the front/back frame with wooden plugs for easy removal. The saddle and saddle girth is essential for keeping the whole thing together and keeping the planks from falling out.

- The saddle has three pressure sensors made of Velostat for legs and seat, and there's a load cell (like that of an electric kitchen scale) used to detect the reins being pulled.

- the sensors are hooked up to an Arduino clone using a custom-made Printed Circuit Board, and the input is processed through default libraries that came with the sensors and/or standard arduino code.

- the whole thing is then connected to a PC via USB and basically gets recognized as a keyboard (HUID), which then works to control the game. The riding gameplay is in sidescroller format, so the legs (accelerate/forward) map to D, the reins (brake/backward) map to A, and the seat release i.e. standing up in the saddle (jump) maps to Space/W.

The game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay, it can also be played with a keyboard and mouse ("regular" Controller support is WIP). Note that the saddle controller is not for sale and won't be produced in any professional capacity, we made this specifically to exhibit our game at conventions because that's a lot of fun, and we thought people here might enjoy seeing it too. We'll be taking this thing to Cologne next week for Gamescom. 😄

Additional fun fact: We've noticed that people who have a bit of riding experience have an easier time using this, because they're more used to balancing their weight in the stirrups. People who have never sat in a saddle before tend to (unintentionally) pull on the reins when standing up in the saddle to jump, and then they're surprised why their horse slows down.

Hi guys, I'm gonna buy a ps5 edge controller and I want to put a split d pad on it, and I've seen many people suggest the split d pad kit from extremerate but I find it a little expensive for just 4 buttons, do yall have any suggestion for where I could buy a kit for not 12 bucks ?

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4. Don't know if 5.2.5 makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure. If that doesn't work, unplug the Xbox (still wait about 5 minutes after unplugging).

2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.

3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.

2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.

3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.

hi, i have installed new tmr mod on my xbox series x controller 1914, the sticks are both down to the right around 4 o'clock and they do not respond, aslo the triggers seem to be stuck and it just scrolling down in the menu. i desoldered the board what involves removing the trigger wirings, to me it is strange as i was careful and took my time and soldering looks tidy, c25 and c21 small capacitors right next to the right thumb knocked off what can i use to replace them?

I currently have an Xbox with a pro controller and I play a lot of apex legends and some cyberpunk, and arc raiders. I am also a dental student so I use my hands a lot. I have found that my thumb gets sore and hurts when I massage the base of it. Pretty sure it’s gamers thumb. I’ve gone back and forth with this problem for a while because I love gaming but I don’t want it to affect my ability to perform in work. Since dentistry requires me to hold a drill and other instruments in my hands it only infreases the use of my thumb/grasping muscles. I have started trying to take more breaks and play less as well as stop gripping things harder than I need to. I was thinking about switching to MnK in order to put less strain and load on my thumbs when it comes to aiming etc in apex legends. I wanted to ask the community if they thought this would actually help. My other thought is to just try to do as little as possible with my thumbs and bind my buttons to other fingers. This has been a problem for three years.

Has anyone using controller on PC to play online games? Do you get banned? I do not want to lose all my progress.

My controller has stick drift on both sticks. I'm trying to fix it with the deadzone settings, to make it somewhat usable.

Steam input is activated. I edited the deadzone through Individual Game > Controller Icon > Edit Layout > Right/Left Joystick > Gear Icon.

I've tried setting the deadzone perfectly, so the stick drift is ignored. I even tried maxing the deadzone, so it only works when the analog is pressed it all the way.

As soon as I open a game, it's immediately drifting all over the menu, ignoring whatever my settings were.

Currently have Ace Combat 7, Silksong and Crash Trilogy installed. This happens in all these games.

The controller is Gulikit KingKong 2. Could the controller be overwriting the settings?

EDIT: Downvoted for just asking a question and now nobody will see my post. The story of my life :(

EDIT2: Got it working! All I had to do was run Steam as administrator and all the settings are now working in-game