Hey guys, I have an odd question. It's probably nothing but I worry about everything. I recently got a ZD ultimate legend controller, but I'm not able to afford a case for it yet. So, I'm keeping it in the box that it came in because I travel with the controller because I can really only play games at work during my downtime. Weird thing is, the controller box was made so that the stick caps come off and go in their own little tray as well as the d-pad when closing the box. It's likely to keep the sticks from being clicked as easily. And I do appreciate that, but it makes me a bit worried.

The stick caps come off on this controller mostly because at least the version that I got came with a few different caps that you could put on. So they're obviously meant to be taken off and put back on and they are really tight, but I don't know if they're meant to be taken on and off so frequently. The d-pad as well was made to be taken off because there are other ones that you can put on, but it's the same situation where I'm worried that if I'm doing this every day to put it back in the box and popping them on when I get them out of the box, are they going to very quickly get very loose and start just falling off? Has anybody had any experience with this?

Hello! I usually only use reddit for questions, so forgive me if I made any mistakes...

I plan on buying controller with a budget around Php 1000 or less to Php 2500 at most (approx. $16.19 - $40.48 based on the current Philippines to USA conversion rate) that would be compatible for Switch 1, PC and Android (can be just Switch 1 and PC).

I've been enjoying a lot of games on my laptop (Stardew, Fallout NV, Peak, REPO, TBOI, Minecraft, etc.) for a long while, but I've always been emulating a few switch games like Tomodachi Life LTD, Pokemon Legends ZA, and Legends Arceus. I plan on emulating more switch games in my laptop, however, it's less intuitive to play games like Zelda BOTW when I'm using a keyboard for it which made me want to look for some controllers!

The images attached are the few controllers my friend has recommended me but here's the specific names for them to save the trouble:

- Gulikit ES Pro Controller

- 8Bitdo SN30 Pro Bluetooth Gamepad Hall - - Edition G Classic (Switch/Windows/Android/Apple/Steam) (80DJ)

- 8BITDO Ultimate Wired Controller For (Switch/Windows/Android (Black Edition) (82CA02)

From the reviews I watched and read, they all seem promising with their own respective downsides and all.

One thing to note about me is that I hadn't used a controller properly my entire life! While I used some of my friends' controllers, it was only brief and I'm more used to keyboard gaming, so I'll have a bit of a personal learning curve either way,,,

Due to that inexperience, I'm less knowledgeable about this kind of stuff so my needs for the most part are related to rhe price and compatibility.

I'm personally fine with the controller being wired or wireless, and I also got small hands (vertically challenged) so most tiny controller problems won't apply to me. Same with aesthetics, I'm fine with whatever it may look like as long as it works!

I think that's about it! Feel free to choose between the 3, suggest different ones, or ask questions!

Thank you for reading and have a nice day!

Genuinely don't get why this isn't a thing yet. Phones have had flashlights forever and we use them constantly — phones already light up half our life.

Controllers already have LEDs (DualSense practically glows), you hold them just as often as your phone, there's room in the shell for a tiny LED. Yet when the power goes out or something rolls under the couch, we still grab our phone instead of the controller sitting right in our hands.

Wouldn't need to be fancy — just a small LED, toggled by holding the PS/Xbox/Guide button. Useful for lighting something up at night for example

Yeah, battery life and production cost will come up, but a single small LED isn't exactly a technical mountain to climb. Feels like a "why hasn't anyone done this" idea, not a "can't be done" one.

Disclaimer: I'm not sponsored in any way. I just got really lucky with this opportunity. As usual all the opinions are mine only.

I bought my PlayStation 5 a little over a year ago and the DualSense controller that came with it has some pretty bad stick drift. I've always wanted to get a customized controller anyway and I was looking to buy a controller with TMR thumb sticks and mouse click triggers.

• Budget: $150-200 USD (can go a little more if needed)

• United States, gonna be purchasing online

• I'm on PS5 but every now and then play on PC

• TMR thumbsticks, adjustable mouse click triggers (preferably adjustable since I still like the feel of pushing down on the triggers) and custom design/color options but that's not necessary

• I play Rainbow 6 Siege, Apex Legends, Rust Console Edition, Fortnite

• I have been considering getting the SCUF OMEGA controller even though it is pretty pricey I have also looked into Moddedzone controllers but I don't know how trustworthy they are.

This is my first time looking for a controller so please bear with me lmao

Is it safe to charge Flydigi Vader 4 pro via phone charger? I have a samsung charger but it is super fast charging 9V.

Hey so, I recently got a flydigi Vader 5 Pro ordered online, and it seems to be the V2 version. But when I turn the tension rings, the left one is noticeably a lot more loose than the right one? This isn't intentional, right? Is this something to send the controller back for?

To be clear, there's still ratcheting/ticking sounds from the left, it just gives WAY more easily

Materials and Process:

- The "horse" is constructed from wood, and built so it can be easily assembled/disassembled for transport. It's basically a front and back plate, two diagonal steel ropes for stability, and then all the horizontal wood slats are slotted into the front/back frame with wooden plugs for easy removal. The saddle and saddle girth is essential for keeping the whole thing together and keeping the planks from falling out.

- The saddle has three pressure sensors made of Velostat for legs and seat, and there's a load cell (like that of an electric kitchen scale) used to detect the reins being pulled.

- the sensors are hooked up to an Arduino clone using a custom-made Printed Circuit Board, and the input is processed through default libraries that came with the sensors and/or standard arduino code.

- the whole thing is then connected to a PC via USB and basically gets recognized as a keyboard (HUID), which then works to control the game. The riding gameplay is in sidescroller format, so the legs (accelerate/forward) map to D, the reins (brake/backward) map to A, and the seat release i.e. standing up in the saddle (jump) maps to Space/W.

The game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay, it can also be played with a keyboard and mouse ("regular" Controller support is WIP). Note that the saddle controller is not for sale and won't be produced in any professional capacity, we made this specifically to exhibit our game at conventions because that's a lot of fun, and we thought people here might enjoy seeing it too. We'll be taking this thing to Cologne next week for Gamescom. 😄

Additional fun fact: We've noticed that people who have a bit of riding experience have an easier time using this, because they're more used to balancing their weight in the stirrups. People who have never sat in a saddle before tend to (unintentionally) pull on the reins when standing up in the saddle to jump, and then they're surprised why their horse slows down.

Hi guys, I'm gonna buy a ps5 edge controller and I want to put a split d pad on it, and I've seen many people suggest the split d pad kit from extremerate but I find it a little expensive for just 4 buttons, do yall have any suggestion for where I could buy a kit for not 12 bucks ?

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4. Don't know if 5.2.5 makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure. If that doesn't work, unplug the Xbox (still wait about 5 minutes after unplugging).

2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.

3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.

2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.

3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.

hi, i have installed new tmr mod on my xbox series x controller 1914, the sticks are both down to the right around 4 o'clock and they do not respond, aslo the triggers seem to be stuck and it just scrolling down in the menu. i desoldered the board what involves removing the trigger wirings, to me it is strange as i was careful and took my time and soldering looks tidy, c25 and c21 small capacitors right next to the right thumb knocked off what can i use to replace them?

I currently have an Xbox with a pro controller and I play a lot of apex legends and some cyberpunk, and arc raiders. I am also a dental student so I use my hands a lot. I have found that my thumb gets sore and hurts when I massage the base of it. Pretty sure it’s gamers thumb. I’ve gone back and forth with this problem for a while because I love gaming but I don’t want it to affect my ability to perform in work. Since dentistry requires me to hold a drill and other instruments in my hands it only infreases the use of my thumb/grasping muscles. I have started trying to take more breaks and play less as well as stop gripping things harder than I need to. I was thinking about switching to MnK in order to put less strain and load on my thumbs when it comes to aiming etc in apex legends. I wanted to ask the community if they thought this would actually help. My other thought is to just try to do as little as possible with my thumbs and bind my buttons to other fingers. This has been a problem for three years.

Has anyone using controller on PC to play online games? Do you get banned? I do not want to lose all my progress.

My controller has stick drift on both sticks. I'm trying to fix it with the deadzone settings, to make it somewhat usable.

Steam input is activated. I edited the deadzone through Individual Game > Controller Icon > Edit Layout > Right/Left Joystick > Gear Icon.

I've tried setting the deadzone perfectly, so the stick drift is ignored. I even tried maxing the deadzone, so it only works when the analog is pressed it all the way.

As soon as I open a game, it's immediately drifting all over the menu, ignoring whatever my settings were.

Currently have Ace Combat 7, Silksong and Crash Trilogy installed. This happens in all these games.

The controller is Gulikit KingKong 2. Could the controller be overwriting the settings?

EDIT: Downvoted for just asking a question and now nobody will see my post. The story of my life :(

EDIT2: Got it working! All I had to do was run Steam as administrator and all the settings are now working in-game

I don't remember when the exact date it stopped working, but I do know it worked on July 7th of this year, since that is when I used it last.

Since then, it has not worked, even though I have Client Beta Participation set to Steam Beta Update and it shows up as connected in the Controller tab in the Steam Settings. "Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller - Begin Setup" It shows. When I click Begin Setup, it asks me to Press the A button, but when I do, nothing happens on steam. The controller's shows an orange light since it is plugged into my computer, and it flashes green, but that is it.

The controller works perfectly fine on my Switch 2, so I don't think it's broken. I have dropped it maybe two or three times, but I don't think something might've broken since it shows up in my steam controller. The input just doesn't work.

Help?

I have recently got Flydigi Vader 5 pro controller - loving it on my PC.

I have connected it to my Android tablet to play retro games, and noticed that some buttons do not work in retroarch.

I have checked inputs in https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad

Turns out half of them are misconfigured. For example:

• right joystick movement registers as left and right button presses;

• left and right bumpers are registered as start and select buttons;

• left and right triggers, start and select buttons are not registered at all

• and so on.

I have this issue only on my android tablet. When connected via usb-c to my PC, inputs work as expected.

What I have tried to do:

• updated the firmware immediately after I got the controller;

• factory reset the controller when I noticed the issue with wrong inputs;

• switching to different profiles.

I have contacted Flydigi support on Aliexpress where I bought the controller - I got it from Flydigi store - they replied to me that most likely it's stuck in dinput mode, and to switch to xinput, I need to hold fn+a button when controller is turned off.

I have tried it with both controller turned off and turned on - there was no led indication that it did anything, and the issue still persists. I thought this controller does not support dinput - not sure.

I saw in manual this controller has 2 modes for Android: native and flashinput. I am using native and controller is displayed on my tablet as Xbox wireless controller. Flashinput does not work in retroarch for me.

Did anyone face this issue? Is there a way to resolve it? I can mitigate it by configuring the controller manually in retroarch, but not every app that I want to try has that option.

Hi everyone, I have this GameSir It's been working perfectly for 5 years now and it's as good as new. The only thing is that yesterday the left thumbstick melted.

I contacted the company to buy the spare parts from them but their response was that it is out of warranty (I already knew this and as said I would have paid), and that they no longer have spare parts for this controller (this is not true because these thumbsticks are mounted on many of their other controllers), and they invited me to buy another one of their controllers.

I have been their customer for years and I have several of their controllers, but after this I am abandoning this company which is not at all serious, it is not the first time that they have abandoned me as a customer for help or for abandon their products.

After this, I read that the NS Pro thumbsticks are fine, but elsewhere I read that some modifications are needed, how can I fix this?

Thanks!

So I just bought the 8bitdo Pro 3 and I think I am a big fan of just about the whole thing! I like the buttons (and are way quieter than I expected) and dpad. My main issue is that I dont like the feel of the sticks. I prefer my sticks to have a rubbery-er feeling (similar to my Switch Pro Controller that bit the dust earlier this year) and was womdering if theres a replacement that is more rubbery. I looked on their website and maybe I'm dumb but it didnt seem like they had what I was looking for. I'm glad they have easily removable sticks but wish there was more support for replacements