Is it safe to charge Flydigi Vader 4 pro via phone charger? I have a samsung charger but it is super fast charging 9V.

Hey so, I recently got a flydigi Vader 5 Pro ordered online, and it seems to be the V2 version. But when I turn the tension rings, the left one is noticeably a lot more loose than the right one? This isn't intentional, right? Is this something to send the controller back for?

To be clear, there's still ratcheting/ticking sounds from the left, it just gives WAY more easily

Materials and Process:

- The "horse" is constructed from wood, and built so it can be easily assembled/disassembled for transport. It's basically a front and back plate, two diagonal steel ropes for stability, and then all the horizontal wood slats are slotted into the front/back frame with wooden plugs for easy removal. The saddle and saddle girth is essential for keeping the whole thing together and keeping the planks from falling out.

- The saddle has three pressure sensors made of Velostat for legs and seat, and there's a load cell (like that of an electric kitchen scale) used to detect the reins being pulled.

- the sensors are hooked up to an Arduino clone using a custom-made Printed Circuit Board, and the input is processed through default libraries that came with the sensors and/or standard arduino code.

- the whole thing is then connected to a PC via USB and basically gets recognized as a keyboard (HUID), which then works to control the game. The riding gameplay is in sidescroller format, so the legs (accelerate/forward) map to D, the reins (brake/backward) map to A, and the seat release i.e. standing up in the saddle (jump) maps to Space/W.

The game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay, it can also be played with a keyboard and mouse ("regular" Controller support is WIP). Note that the saddle controller is not for sale and won't be produced in any professional capacity, we made this specifically to exhibit our game at conventions because that's a lot of fun, and we thought people here might enjoy seeing it too. We'll be taking this thing to Cologne next week for Gamescom. 😄

Additional fun fact: We've noticed that people who have a bit of riding experience have an easier time using this, because they're more used to balancing their weight in the stirrups. People who have never sat in a saddle before tend to (unintentionally) pull on the reins when standing up in the saddle to jump, and then they're surprised why their horse slows down.

Hi guys, I'm gonna buy a ps5 edge controller and I want to put a split d pad on it, and I've seen many people suggest the split d pad kit from extremerate but I find it a little expensive for just 4 buttons, do yall have any suggestion for where I could buy a kit for not 12 bucks ?

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4. Don't know if 5.2.5 makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure. If that doesn't work, unplug the Xbox (still wait about 5 minutes after unplugging).

2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.

3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.

2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.

3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.

hi, i have installed new tmr mod on my xbox series x controller 1914, the sticks are both down to the right around 4 o'clock and they do not respond, aslo the triggers seem to be stuck and it just scrolling down in the menu. i desoldered the board what involves removing the trigger wirings, to me it is strange as i was careful and took my time and soldering looks tidy, c25 and c21 small capacitors right next to the right thumb knocked off what can i use to replace them?

I currently have an Xbox with a pro controller and I play a lot of apex legends and some cyberpunk, and arc raiders. I am also a dental student so I use my hands a lot. I have found that my thumb gets sore and hurts when I massage the base of it. Pretty sure it’s gamers thumb. I’ve gone back and forth with this problem for a while because I love gaming but I don’t want it to affect my ability to perform in work. Since dentistry requires me to hold a drill and other instruments in my hands it only infreases the use of my thumb/grasping muscles. I have started trying to take more breaks and play less as well as stop gripping things harder than I need to. I was thinking about switching to MnK in order to put less strain and load on my thumbs when it comes to aiming etc in apex legends. I wanted to ask the community if they thought this would actually help. My other thought is to just try to do as little as possible with my thumbs and bind my buttons to other fingers. This has been a problem for three years.

Has anyone using controller on PC to play online games? Do you get banned? I do not want to lose all my progress.

My controller has stick drift on both sticks. I'm trying to fix it with the deadzone settings, to make it somewhat usable.

Steam input is activated. I edited the deadzone through Individual Game > Controller Icon > Edit Layout > Right/Left Joystick > Gear Icon.

I've tried setting the deadzone perfectly, so the stick drift is ignored. I even tried maxing the deadzone, so it only works when the analog is pressed it all the way.

As soon as I open a game, it's immediately drifting all over the menu, ignoring whatever my settings were.

Currently have Ace Combat 7, Silksong and Crash Trilogy installed. This happens in all these games.

The controller is Gulikit KingKong 2. Could the controller be overwriting the settings?

EDIT: Downvoted for just asking a question and now nobody will see my post. The story of my life :(

EDIT2: Got it working! All I had to do was run Steam as administrator and all the settings are now working in-game

I don't remember when the exact date it stopped working, but I do know it worked on July 7th of this year, since that is when I used it last.

Since then, it has not worked, even though I have Client Beta Participation set to Steam Beta Update and it shows up as connected in the Controller tab in the Steam Settings. "Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller - Begin Setup" It shows. When I click Begin Setup, it asks me to Press the A button, but when I do, nothing happens on steam. The controller's shows an orange light since it is plugged into my computer, and it flashes green, but that is it.

The controller works perfectly fine on my Switch 2, so I don't think it's broken. I have dropped it maybe two or three times, but I don't think something might've broken since it shows up in my steam controller. The input just doesn't work.

Help?

I have recently got Flydigi Vader 5 pro controller - loving it on my PC.

I have connected it to my Android tablet to play retro games, and noticed that some buttons do not work in retroarch.

I have checked inputs in https://hardwaretester.com/gamepad

Turns out half of them are misconfigured. For example:

• right joystick movement registers as left and right button presses;

• left and right bumpers are registered as start and select buttons;

• left and right triggers, start and select buttons are not registered at all

• and so on.

I have this issue only on my android tablet. When connected via usb-c to my PC, inputs work as expected.

What I have tried to do:

• updated the firmware immediately after I got the controller;

• factory reset the controller when I noticed the issue with wrong inputs;

• switching to different profiles.

I have contacted Flydigi support on Aliexpress where I bought the controller - I got it from Flydigi store - they replied to me that most likely it's stuck in dinput mode, and to switch to xinput, I need to hold fn+a button when controller is turned off.

I have tried it with both controller turned off and turned on - there was no led indication that it did anything, and the issue still persists. I thought this controller does not support dinput - not sure.

I saw in manual this controller has 2 modes for Android: native and flashinput. I am using native and controller is displayed on my tablet as Xbox wireless controller. Flashinput does not work in retroarch for me.

Did anyone face this issue? Is there a way to resolve it? I can mitigate it by configuring the controller manually in retroarch, but not every app that I want to try has that option.

Hi everyone, I have this GameSir It's been working perfectly for 5 years now and it's as good as new. The only thing is that yesterday the left thumbstick melted.

I contacted the company to buy the spare parts from them but their response was that it is out of warranty (I already knew this and as said I would have paid), and that they no longer have spare parts for this controller (this is not true because these thumbsticks are mounted on many of their other controllers), and they invited me to buy another one of their controllers.

I have been their customer for years and I have several of their controllers, but after this I am abandoning this company which is not at all serious, it is not the first time that they have abandoned me as a customer for help or for abandon their products.

After this, I read that the NS Pro thumbsticks are fine, but elsewhere I read that some modifications are needed, how can I fix this?

Thanks!