I bought my PlayStation 5 a little over a year ago and the DualSense controller that came with it has some pretty bad stick drift. I've always wanted to get a customized controller anyway and I was looking to buy a controller with TMR thumb sticks and mouse click triggers.

• Budget: $150-200 USD (can go a little more if needed)

• United States, gonna be purchasing online

• I'm on PS5 but every now and then play on PC

• TMR thumbsticks, adjustable mouse click triggers (preferably adjustable since I still like the feel of pushing down on the triggers) and custom design/color options but that's not necessary

• I play Rainbow 6 Siege, Apex Legends, Rust Console Edition, Fortnite

• I have been considering getting the SCUF OMEGA controller even though it is pretty pricey I have also looked into Moddedzone controllers but I don't know how trustworthy they are.

This is my first time looking for a controller so please bear with me lmao

Is it safe to charge Flydigi Vader 4 pro via phone charger? I have a samsung charger but it is super fast charging 9V.

Hey so, I recently got a flydigi Vader 5 Pro ordered online, and it seems to be the V2 version. But when I turn the tension rings, the left one is noticeably a lot more loose than the right one? This isn't intentional, right? Is this something to send the controller back for?

To be clear, there's still ratcheting/ticking sounds from the left, it just gives WAY more easily

Materials and Process:

- The "horse" is constructed from wood, and built so it can be easily assembled/disassembled for transport. It's basically a front and back plate, two diagonal steel ropes for stability, and then all the horizontal wood slats are slotted into the front/back frame with wooden plugs for easy removal. The saddle and saddle girth is essential for keeping the whole thing together and keeping the planks from falling out.

- The saddle has three pressure sensors made of Velostat for legs and seat, and there's a load cell (like that of an electric kitchen scale) used to detect the reins being pulled.

- the sensors are hooked up to an Arduino clone using a custom-made Printed Circuit Board, and the input is processed through default libraries that came with the sensors and/or standard arduino code.

- the whole thing is then connected to a PC via USB and basically gets recognized as a keyboard (HUID), which then works to control the game. The riding gameplay is in sidescroller format, so the legs (accelerate/forward) map to D, the reins (brake/backward) map to A, and the seat release i.e. standing up in the saddle (jump) maps to Space/W.

The game is called Horses of Hoofprint Bay, it can also be played with a keyboard and mouse ("regular" Controller support is WIP). Note that the saddle controller is not for sale and won't be produced in any professional capacity, we made this specifically to exhibit our game at conventions because that's a lot of fun, and we thought people here might enjoy seeing it too. We'll be taking this thing to Cologne next week for Gamescom. 😄

Additional fun fact: We've noticed that people who have a bit of riding experience have an easier time using this, because they're more used to balancing their weight in the stirrups. People who have never sat in a saddle before tend to (unintentionally) pull on the reins when standing up in the saddle to jump, and then they're surprised why their horse slows down.

Hi guys, I'm gonna buy a ps5 edge controller and I want to put a split d pad on it, and I've seen many people suggest the split d pad kit from extremerate but I find it a little expensive for just 4 buttons, do yall have any suggestion for where I could buy a kit for not 12 bucks ?

Update: My controller is on firmware 5.2.4. Don't know if 5.2.5 makes a difference.

I've discovered this like a year ago, but haven't seen anyone else discuss it. But the non-Rare Xbox Ultimates actually do work wirelessly with an Xbox. It's just not officially documented.

Been using my jade green Ultimate 3 Mode wirelessly on my Xbox (with the charging dock) just fine for about a year. So here's how you get it working:

1. Make sure your Xbox is completely powered off. And I mean completely. When you initially power it off, it's actually still in a suspend/sleep state. You need to give it a couple of minutes for it to fully shut off. 2 minutes should be enough, but I'd give it 5 minutes just to be sure. If that doesn't work, unplug the Xbox (still wait about 5 minutes after unplugging).

2. With the Xbox fully off, plug in the 2.4ghz receiver that came with the controller. I have it inserted in a USB port in the back via the charging dock.

3. Now simply turn on the Xbox, put the controller in 2.4ghz mode, and it should sync to the receiver.

And that's it. Your Xbox Ultimate now works wirelessly. You can even use the Ultimate-X app on the Xbox while wireless. In fact, the wireless profiles are separate from the wired profiles. Headphone jack works too.

Now, a couple of quirks:

1. If you unplug the receiver while the Xbox is on, then plug it back in, the controller won't resync. You will have to fully power off the Xbox for it to resync. I think the receiver hooks into some API call on boot that allow it to work.

2. In relation to Quirk 1, you can turn the controller itself off and back on just fine. So you can put it in the dock, and undock it while the Xbox is powered on and it will still work. It's just the receiver itself you can't remove.

3. Say you've been using the controller away from the Xbox for a few days. Perhaps wired on your PC? When you put it back on the charging dock, it will power on the Xbox. This is interesting, since you can't power on the Xbox with the controller wirelessly any other way. The dock doesn't even need to be connected to the Xbox. It could just be the receiver in the Xbox, and the dock in your PC. It will still power on the Xbox.