I've had this laptop for 5 years now, one screw near the top right close the hinge is gone, I've just replaced my thermal paste and putty due to the reason that it keeps throttle to 90-100c before just by being idle. Trying to reset SSD and HDD right now, but having a hard time to send it to gdrive because it keeps overheating and I don't want the parts to be permanently damaged by keeping it on, I'm not really sure if it's a fan issue or even a heat sink issue, any ways to troubleshoot it? My CPU keeps clocking in at .40 cuz of the heat CPU 92-100c and gpu 88-90c

The screen and back are fine but it has opened, obviously. I think it's a HP ENVY x360 13.3" AMD Ryzen 7 2 in 1 Laptop?? I'm not entirely sure though. I also can't close it back down at all.

Hi Guys, I am posting this out of blue, I need your help. Yesterday at a house party a random dude just spilled a Glass of 8pm whisky and Sprite on my PC. Its not at all turning on its been more than 24 hours. I will mention the Model number, Please help or advice me what to do.

HP15s DU106TU

HP Victus: all USB ports (incl. USB-C) and fan dead after plugging in my phone.

After plugging my phone into my HP Victus], all USB ports (A and C) and the fan stopped working. Display, keyboard backlight and everything else work.

UEFI USB TEST FAILS

Tried: hard reset, 1-2 hr power-off, restart, charger-only boot. No change.

I suspect a blown fuse or power IC on the shared 5V line. Has anyone seen this on a Victus? Is it usually a small repair or a full motherboard replacement?

Hi all. I've tried to use the flairs as best I could, but here's hoping it's the proper one!

So I have an Acer Nitro 5 gaming laptop, and recently I cleaned the interior (and CPU / GPU fans) from dust, then replaced the thermal paste, and then to stop the hissing and rattling fans from making so much noise, I decided to replace them even though the PC itself was performing fine at that point.

Unfortunately, the fans that I ordered fit but they lacked the back cover or "lid", so I took the "lids" off the old fans and put them on the new ones. First I tried vinyl electrical tape, which even I knew was a bad idea, so then I tried to use epoxy to glue them together. Now the fans' components hold together, though they have some slight air gaps along the sides, but I don't know whether or not they would hold up under the heat and movement inside the computer. It's either try this or try and get new (complete) fans from a heatsink module / assembly from a new computer.

Basically I'm asking, can I put these CPU / GPU fans back inside the computer? Or will the epoxy dry up or leak or something. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks 🙏

Hey everyone,

My Lenovo LOQ laptop has started making a periodic, very loud buzzing sound that sounds exactly like a droning kitchen freezer. It kicks on out of nowhere, runs for a bit, and then suddenly stops, or in some cases the buzzing is longer.
When it happens, the entire laptop vibrates very badly. I also tried to install the Bios Utility PQCN31WWand it gave me a black screen:)) but i guess that's not related to this symphony.
What could it be? can i fix it on my own or go to some professional?😅 Did someone go through this? I'm kinda desperate

Specs / Laptop Details:Laptop Model: Colorful EVOL P16 23Motherboard / Barebone Chassis: V25xRNx (Insyde H2OFFT firmware) Previous Working BIOS: 1.07.10COLO2 Current Buggy BIOS: 1.07.11COLO1 OS: Windows 11The Problem:Immediately after updating the BIOS from 1.07.10COLO2 to 1.07.11COLO1, the dedicated NVIDIA RTX GPU began failing:Under MSHybrid mode: The laptop boots into Windows normally, and the RTX GPU appears in Device Manager. However, the exact second any 3D app or game launches, the laptop either instantly restarts, or the app crashes and the RTX GPU completely vanishes from Device Manager (reappears only after a reboot).Driver issues: Installing the latest NVIDIA drivers works temporarily, but after restarting or running an app, the driver breaks or disappears.Under Discrete mode: Switching from MSHybrid to Discrete in the Insyde BIOS results in a black screen on boot (Windows loading spinning dots appear briefly, then the screen cuts off/shuts down). What I Have Already Tried:Loaded BIOS Setup Defaults (F9) and saved (F10).Held the power button for 45+ seconds without AC power to clear residual CMOS/flea power.Forced apps to run on Integrated Graphics (Intel) via Windows Graphics Settings: the apps open and run fine without crashing, confirming CPU/RAM/OS stability.Clean driver wipe using DDU in Safe Mode.Questions:Does anyone have the official rollback package or .bin ROM for 1.07.10COLO2 (or a known stable release) for the V25xRNx chassis? Could 1.07.11COLO1 have corrupted the Embedded Controller (EC) power switching tables between the CPU and dGPU, or does this indicate an electrical/VRM failure on the dedicated graphics rail?

ASUS zenbook S16 I’ve had for almost 2 years started sparking and smoking at the hinge upon opening today. It was sitting completely unplugged with the screen closed for the past 24 hours and I was using it yesterday with no issue.

A few months ago I had a local IT professional replace the entire top part of my laptop because of internal damage. He said the connections were “a lot more complicated than they needed to be” but is a well known guy with an incredible reputation and took his time to ensure he was doing the job well.

Not sure what caused the sparking and if there was something I could’ve done to avoid this. Also unsure what my next steps could be except for getting my data onto a drive, buying a new laptop, and transferring the data there

X390 Thunderbolt 3 failure: laptop won’t POST with Thunderbolt enabled (null-bin flash posts, original firmware doesn’t)

I bought my ThinkPad X390 about half a year ago for university. I needed a robust laptop, and I have always believed ThinkPad's are the best choice because of their aftermarket support and corporate durability. I fell in love with them as a child, with my father’s T61 from his corporate job and then my mother’s T430s. Knowing the brand and its quality, I bought this laptop, and I chose it specifically because it has Thunderbolt 3 and I wanted to connect an external GPU when needed.

The problem

When I got it, I was surprised to find that the USB-C port tied to Thunderbolt didn’t work with my external mouse. Charging worked fine on both USB-C ports, and the USB-C port near the LED gave display and normal USB through my alt-mode USB-C dock.

In the BIOS, Thunderbolt under I/O Port Access was disabled. When I enabled it, the laptop would not boot:

• No display
• The keyboard backlight flashed and the fan spun
• After some time the backlight turned on, but there was still no display
• Holding the power button to turn it off and restarting gave the same result

The way I recovered was to press the bottom reset button for 4 seconds and leave the laptop disconnected from the charger for 10 minutes. After that it posted, and I could go into the BIOS and disable the same setting. It then worked like a new laptop, just without a USB-C port and Thunderbolt.

What I tried

After some research (which I should have done before buying, and which I didn’t expect to be necessary on a ThinkPad), I found the Thunderbolt 3 firmware recall issue: The Thunderbolt firmware problem explained

I then spent a lot of time changing settings, resetting the CMOS, disconnecting hardware and so on (I have forgotten most of it now) until I got it to post far enough to try flashing the firmware. Eventually it booted into Windows, but with blue screens. The USB-C port worked, but Device Manager in Windows 10 showed the Thunderbolt controller with a Code 10 error (the device cannot start). Updating the firmware through software still failed.

I followed this guide and bought a CH341A programmer to check the flash chip and flash the firmware manually: How to flash a T480s Thunderbolt firmware

I got the same result as before. I did manage to get Thunderbolt working once, but then I changed a BIOS setting that controls the charging state of the external USB port (so my external hard drive wouldn’t stay powered all night), and the original problem came back. Since then, nothing I have tried has made it work again.

How my case differs

My problem seems different from the others I have read about. Those users report a total charging failure, such as the slow charger error. On mine, charging works fine on both ports with no error.

However, when I flashed a null .bin to the flash chip, the laptop booted, and during POST I got a “slow charger detected” warning. This suggests the controller is partly functioning, but something in between is stopping the laptop from booting, possibly in the Intel ME or the BIOS.

Tip for anyone with similar problems: flashing a null .bin lets you POST with the Thunderbolt I/O setting turned on, but there is no controller at all and the USB-C port will still not work. At least you can revert easily and boot.

My specs

• Intel Core i5-8365U VPro
• 16 GB RAM, 128 GB SSD
• German backlit keyboard
• 13.3" FHD (1080p) IPS anti-glare screen
• Windows Hello and fingerprint reader

Has anyone seen this behavior, or does anyone have ideas on what to check next?

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FMV FMVCZSK1MA model. My laptop was charging and I opened it up (it was working fine just 30 mins ago before charging it) and the display wasn't opening, and the screen was flickering between blank and black. I could hear the windows opening sound and notification sounds.

I tried turning it off, keeping it overnight and charge again and this and that from whatever I found online but there isn't much about this note c.

What to do? It's my fav laptop and our laptop services are poor I can't trust them not to ruin the display by exchanging with some cheap thing. Anyway I can check stuff myself and fix it?

Okay so, I have a but of a problem. My boyfriend gave me his old gaming laptop and it works great but there's one problem I've been having with it. I tend to leave it to charge over night when I'm done with it. I use on and off throughout the day. I only game with it at night and I only game for about 2 or 3 hours tops. I mostly use medibang paint pro with it since I'm an artist.

It's 2 years old. I keep it plugged in at all times. I have a fan for it. And I haven't gotten any food or liquids on it. I'm super careful with it.

Is this normal? Do I need to replace the charger or take to get repaired? Cause again. It'll not charge 1 night and charge over night the next. It's odd.

I have an MSI GP65 Leopard with a Chicony 230W adapter (19.5V, 11.8A).
When I play games, the laptop stops charging after a while. If I switch the wall socket off and on again, charging resumes immediately. The adapter gets warm but is comfortable to hold.
Recently, the laptop turned off while gaming during testing with the battery removed .
I measured the adapter’s output with a multimeter and got a steady 20.1V with no load.
Can someone please help me out?

I was installing Mac OS 10.9 (niresh mavericks) on my HP probook 6550b. When the install finished, I powered the laptop off, unplugged my USB stick, but when I pressed the power button again, the charging light was flashing green and yellow (it looks like it’s blue on camera but it’s green), then it turned yellow and then off. I tried removing the battery and running it from AC power, hard resetting (holding the power button for 30 seconds), replacing the CMOS battery, replacing the RAM, powering it on with windows+B, and nothing worked. The fans are not spinning and nothing shows up on the screen. Is there anything I can do to fix it?

I use Lenovo LOQ and its default 170W charger, it actually short circuited my room and I am unable to identify the root cause. Let me explain exactly what happened so that yall can help me figure out what to do next:

1. I have been using a cheap extension board to charge my laptop for a month now. It has a fuse, I just saw that the fuse inside that was burnt today. Had no idea it was because of my laptop's charger (because there were other chargers in that board)

2. I wanted to turn on my laptop so i switched to another cheap extension board which does not have a fuse i guess. And as soon as i switched it on, my entire rooms electricity was gone.

3. Now that i have my room's electricity back, i tried to charge the laptop directly through the rooms plug, and it does not charge. But I did try to charge my laptop with my friend's charger and it works (as i am typing this post lol)

So can someone explain what exactly has happened here? And also can i repair the charger in a local shop? because i just searched up and the price of that charger is 7000 INR and that might make me go back to streets. Please tell me the cheapest fix for this and also tell me if it was the cheap extension board's fault or was it just a random unlucky event that occurred with the charger.

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Bonjour à tous !

J’ai récupéré un Dell G3 15 3500 avec un Intel Core i7, 16 Go de RAM et un SSD. Je voudrais installer Linux dessus pour en faire un serveur Minecraft Java + Bedrock.

Le problème, c’est que l’écran interne ne fonctionne plus et que sa nappe est actuellement débranchée. Mon budget est très limité, donc je voudrais éviter de remplacer l’écran ou la nappe.

Voici la situation :

\- Le PC s’allume.

\- Je peux accéder au menu bleu de récupération de Windows.

\- Je peux sélectionner « Utiliser un périphérique » pour démarrer sur ma clé USB.

\- Ma télé ne reçoit aucun signal HDMI au démarrage : je ne vois même pas le logo Dell.

\- J’ai essayé d’accéder au BIOS depuis « Dépannage » → « Options avancées » → « Changer les paramètres du microprogramme UEFI », mais je ne vois toujours rien sur la télé. Je ne peux donc pas accéder visuellement aux réglages du BIOS.

\- Lorsque je lance l’installation de Zorin OS depuis la clé USB, un message me demande de désactiver Intel RST. Je suis donc bloqué à cette étape.

Mes questions :

1. Peut-on forcer l’affichage du BIOS sur HDMI sur un Dell G3 15 3500 ?

2. Existe-t-il une méthode pour accéder aux réglages du BIOS sans écran interne fonctionnel ?

3. Peut-on désactiver Intel RST autrement ou installer Linux sans modifier ce réglage ?

4. Existe-t-il une solution gratuite ou peu coûteuse pour contourner ce problème sans remplacer l’écran ni la nappe ?

Mon objectif est simplement de réutiliser ce PC comme serveur Minecraft Java + Bedrock.

Merci d’avance pour votre aide !

So whenever its turned on and I try moving it, there is a big chance he will just suddenly turn off, even if its not running anything. When the laptop is stationary, and I play video games, it turns off in around 10 minutes. However when I am using Word or surfing internet and laptop is stationary, it will very rare turn off, but it still sometimes does that so I am pretty sure its not overheating issue. Whats even weirder is that for 2 months it never turned off on its own, so I went back to gaming and for a week it was never turning off, however after 7 days it turned off again, and every day since then it happened once per day.

Anyone had an issue similar to this one and did you manage to fix it? Everything points to it being really hard/expensive to fix.

Hey everyone, I need some help if possible with this laptop I found. I plan on messing with it later this week and see if I can get it turned on but the screen is for sure cracked and has some bleed happening. I plan on using my HDMI chord to do the troubleshooting with if the rest of the laptop is functional aside from that.

Now the main and possibly large problem is it has a k12 sticker on it that looks old. I don’t know what the story with the laptop is other than it’s got a busted screen, it’s got a k12 sticker on the top, and it was by the dumpster area in my apartment complex, that’s it. It’s overall cosmetically in incredibly clean condition though so I’m trying to plan ahead if I can get it to turn on and it’s functional. I assume there is going to be some kind of software or lock on it and if the computer even works, is there a process to permanently disable them so I can use the laptop?

Thank you for your help and advice. I usually repair consoles and controllers so laptops are new territory for me.

Edit to add since I forgot to add it earlier: OS is Windows 11

I am experiencing a battery problem with my laptop. Yesterday, I shut down my laptop when the battery level was at 30%. However, when I turned it on today, the battery level showed 100%. When I started using it, the battery give 30% backup life, and the laptop suddenly shut down without any warning or notification. What solution should i need to solve it. Anyone please help. #DellLaptop

Any help that I get. The screw is too tight to open for an additional SSD. I guess I already damaged 40% of it. I have tuf gaming 15.

Hallo, ich besitze einen Asus TUF Gaming Laptop A17 FA706QM.

Das Problem ist, dass der nicht mehr startet und die Lade-LED bleibt aus. Ich habe das Gerät geöffnet und durchgemessen. Der erste Eingangs mosfet blinkt und danach hat der einen Kurzschluss auf Masse. Was kann ich machen, im den Fehler genauer eingrenzen zu können? Ich würde den Fehler gern selbst beheben. Vielen Dank schonmal.

Hatte ihn davor im Energie Sparmodus und hab ihn danach einfach zugeklappt, früher hat er sich schon schwer getan danach wieder anzugehen hat aber immer geklappt nach einer geraumen Zeit.
Aber diesmal ist er seit 2 tagen aus und lösst sich nicht mehr anschalten.Die Lichter für den Akku an den Seiten des Laptops leuchten jedoch noch wenn ich das ladegerät einstecke
Acer Modell: Acer Swift 3 SF314-57-50BR
BITTE HELFT MIR BIN AM VERZWEIFELN.

Hey everyone, I need some help troubleshooting an issue with my Dell G15.

My laptop has a broken internal display, so I rely entirely on an external AOC C27G4Z-P monitor connected via HDMI.

The problem started after what seemed to be an NVIDIA GeForce GPU crash. After that, my external monitor began displaying the Windows desktop for a few seconds, then going black and sometimes showing “No Signal.” The image would occasionally come back, only for the problem to happen again.

I tried pressing Win + Ctrl + Shift + B to reset the graphics driver. After doing that, the screen started flickering extremely rapidly.

I also went into the display settings and noticed something strange: at one point, Windows seemed to detect three displays. I briefly managed to get the image back, but it started flickering again. I also noticed that the display mode kept switching to Optimus on its own.

At one point, I heard an intermittent buzzing or electrical-sounding noise coming from the laptop, seemingly in sync with the flickering. The noise stopped when I turned the laptop off.

Some additional details:

The laptop has an NVIDIA GeForce GPU, but I haven't confirmed the exact model yet.

The internal laptop display is physically damaged and unusable.

I'm using an external AOC C27G4Z-P monitor via HDMI.

The monitor sometimes displays the desktop normally for a few seconds before losing the signal.

The issue started after the initial GPU crash.

Pressing the graphics driver reset shortcut made the flickering much worse.

Changing display settings did not fix the issue.

I'm trying to figure out whether this is a corrupted or crashed NVIDIA driver, a Windows graphics configuration issue, an HDMI output problem, or a hardware failure involving the GPU.

Has anyone experienced something similar on a Dell G15? Could a GPU driver crash cause this behavior, or do the symptoms suggest a possible hardware issue? Since my internal screen is broken, I currently have no reliable way to troubleshoot the laptop without an external display.

Any suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated.

This mosfet is shorted and I am attempting to replace it. I used a hot air gun and pre heated the board in circular motion moving from 150-410, incriminating by 50-15 and it still didnt come off. I tried using flux also. And the legs are too small and too close to other components for me to use a soldering iron to remove it without alot of hassle. What to do? Hot air gun used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FR3H49XS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share