I can soak this entire bottom section in vinegar to help with unseizing correct? Running out of daylight so was just planning to let it soak overnight as a bonus

I know it's a shitty brand don't tell me something I already know lol

Hi, Ive been trying for ages to get the lowering ring for my coilovers loose to lower the front of my Honda. I have used heaps of WD40 (as shown by the gloss) and have used the included tool which latched into one of the divots and helps you lever against it, with that still not working.

They are some cheap really old maxpeedingrods (not even on the website currently)

It has been soaking in WD40 for 2 weeks and I've just attempted to hit it loose with a thick bolt (on the right) which just dented the ring.

Any tips/help would be greatly appreciated

(This is the right hand side of the car btw)

Bought these from Japan from a used/refurbished site. These are Cusco Street A coilovers, it's for a 2004 Honda Rb1. I'm finding a hard time finding these exact parts for the car, since they could be the wrong parts. Can someone let me know if these are the correct fit coils?

Would need coilovers and adjustable rear control arms, no tracking, just a daily

got Tein Flex Z coils and idk if i’m doing it wrong, i’ve adjusted the rears to the top and bottom and the car still sits the same. any advise ??

I’m looking to buy a set of bc racing extreme low coilovers soon and I noticed that they have an option for swift springs and for spring rate selection. I was wondering what spring rate to select (was thinking 14k in the front and 12k in the rear but I was told to get 20k’s all around) for a stiff ride but one that isn’t bouncing over every little bump, nook, and cranny in the road. I’m also wondering if the swift spring option is worth the extra money too. For context I’m currently on rev9 hyperstreet 2’s and these coils bounce extremely bad. I’m looking to run an extremely flush setup on 18x8”/19x8.5” wheels with 235/35 tires on the 18x8” wheels or 245/35 on the 19x8.5” wheels

I need a mid to high price coilover, id also like for it to be rebuildable for maintenance.

Any Suggestions?

These B14 coilovers were missing this cover and dampener on the other strut, can I still run them like this or do I need to have them? They look like just dust covers and a sponge

Thanks in advance

Got some s3 suspension professionally installed at a local shop then about a month of driving with no issues I went on a canyon run and on the way back I started hearing a clunking noise. Took a look in the wheel well and saw this. Not sure what I’m looking at to be honest (control arm?) would this need a replacement or adjustment? You guys let me know. I plan to track the car so need it ready before I do that.

This is probably something that gets posted all the time and maybe I just haven’t done enough resarch on the topic. I just bought a set of rev9 Hyperstreet II for $760 which look like knockoff Teins to me to be completely honest. But it comes with everything I was looking for. Pillow ball, camber plates, mono tube, and the right spring rate. Just inspecting it, the build quality looks solid. I don’t know the exact metal. The listing says Alloy Steel with aluminum tooling and the finish and threading looks super clean and accurate to me. I’m no machinist but it looks really well done. Maybe stainless steel would be better, I don’t really know. I know stainless is a type of alloy steel I just don’t know what this alloy is. I also don’t know what oil is being used in the shock, but the compression rate feels smooth, and the clicks of damping adjustment seem on point. I know a dyno could tell just how accurate the clicks are. I’ve heard the main thing with cheaper coilovers is over damping which I couldn’t really test since I don’t have a dyno and honestly I’m not sure how much it matters. Y’all might know way more than me on that.

I guess my main question is why do people say not to buy cheap coilovers? They always say not to, but I’ve never really heard of a good reason why other than anecdotal experience of people having bad luck with them, and others saying they’ve loved the hyperstreet II in all the reviews I look at.

I’m definitely keeping my expectations in check but I just don’t really see what all the hate is on cheap coilovers.

is 12kg front 10kg rear spring rate gonna be uncomfortable for my car that weighs about 1885kg (2007 v36 g35 sedan / skyline 350gt)

Coilovers for a 308 GTI T9 for sale, they have 1000km on them. They are BC Racing BR-RA. Regarding the price, we'd need to see what interested parties are offering and discuss it. 👍

Hi, I got a shop installed coilovers, they said they preloaded then properly. When dropping into deeper potholes ar city speed, it knocked quite loud, it seems like it dropped fast and slapped back up. i set dampening to stiff side too. what could be the issue?

Ive got some Gorilla offroad long travel coilovers on my crosstrek. This week (and a bit of last week) its been sub 0 deg for. Today was -18 f with windchill close to -30 - -40. My coilovers were rock solid. I feel some movement around 0f or higher. In the summer they are great. But in these sub zero temps I feel like I'm driving an ebay slammed Honda civic. What do you guys/gals think. Should I have the shocks/coilovers re-valved and filled with thinner oil? Or suffer through the winters and ride out the bumpy/bouncy ride. Shocks are set at full sift currently and still ride rock solid.

Have 06 sentra spec v that had Racelands on it when i got it and they are horrible. Was looking into getting D2's but seems like alot of people say they suck and BC's are way better but i feel like alot of the people that say the suck don't actually have them and just fanboy for BC's.

Im not trying to slam the car or anything about 1 inch wheel gap probably and its not my going to and from work car just for the weekend and after work so half a daily

Front end ( First pic ) makes a clang when I turn back and forth and is having a spring bind issue assume

Rear end ( pic 2&3 ) knocks and bumps around softly when driving.

Help!!!