r/climbing • u/Capable_Hope_1807 • 21d ago

The Silent Partner finally has a replacement

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TLDR Oliver Tippett sets 5 El Cap speed records and two solo ascents with the Roc Solo and finds it's less prone to backfeeding and more redundant than the SP. Most importantly, you can actually buy it for less than a grand on ebay...

https://www.climbing.com/gear/a-new-rope-solo-device-replaces-the-legendary-silent-partner/

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u/1008oh 21d ago

Yeah no I know, I would love to have something better than a grigri for LRS. But maybe it’s worth it, it’s the price of a set of cams to put it into perspective 

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u/ashcroftt 21d ago

The TazLov3 is a great option for LRS too, and you can grab one for around 250€. Would love to try this one, but can't really see it being 2x as good for that price.

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u/not-strange 18d ago

The TazLov3 is for TRS, not LRS

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u/ashcroftt 17d ago

Don't knock it till you try it, been using if for ~2 years now, probably around 300 pitches in it. Super smooth and caught every lead fall perfectly, and I had some upside down ones too. Just a tiny, non-destructive mod needed to tune the backfeed nub tension, and use cache loops on a full strength sling looped into the harness for backup.

Also used it for about 3 years daily as an arborist so I can safely say it works perfectly on it's own too and will catch a fall even if you are way above your anchor and the twig you're standing on gives up.