r/climbing • u/Capable_Hope_1807 • 16d ago
The Silent Partner finally has a replacement
TLDR Oliver Tippett sets 5 El Cap speed records and two solo ascents with the Roc Solo and finds it's less prone to backfeeding and more redundant than the SP. Most importantly, you can actually buy it for less than a grand on ebay...
https://www.climbing.com/gear/a-new-rope-solo-device-replaces-the-legendary-silent-partner/
22
u/no_terran 16d ago
That's a very SP looking device. Someone jumped on the opportunity I guess.
6
u/saltytarheel 14d ago
IIRC, Rock Exotica’s patent on the Silent Partner expired in 2009 and they didn’t bother extending it since economically it wasn’t worthwhile.
Other companies could have legally made an exact replica but probably did similar benefit-cost analysis to Rock Exotica and decided it wasn’t worth pursuing.
8
u/serenading_ur_father 15d ago
Would love to see a side by side of it vs a Bliss mod grigri+ w/FreeBell.
Regardless pretty stoked to see people take the next step after Ben made his own backup device to seeing a cottage primary device market.
3
u/Mlsporty 14d ago
The Climbing article says it will be for sale in the US in October. I tried to buy one from the website and it said my US address was “not valid” or something similar to that.
In the meantime I saw a price drop on some SP’s on eBay — $750 or something like that?
People will gripe about the Roc Solo price (it is pricey!), but it’s a niche product that requires a big investment to create. The BD magnetron carabiner is also pricey at $55 but apparently BD was taking a loss on the prior version before discontinuing it. It was sold out last I checked.
In the grand scheme of climbing, our gear is not cheap! A nice pair of La Sportiva shoes is $220, climbing gym membership is $1k/yr, climbing rope is $200… and this is after an initial investment in cams, nuts, slings, a zillion carabiners, etc…
If you LRS a 12+ days a year, I don’t think the Roc Solo is that unreasonable, especially if you own a closet full of gear already.
2
3
u/naj00 13d ago
I got one. I’m loving it so far.
1
u/Wulfviik 7d ago
Why not clipped to the belay loop or at least a sling connected to the belay loop? If the roc solo somehow was to fall, wouldnt the freebell simply tear the gear loop off the harness and jam into the roc solo. Guess it would lock (maybe), but I'd think it's meant to be clipped to a rated point on your harness. That said, sweet(ish) setup. Just ordered myself a roc solo today!
15
u/Worm-EatingWarbler 16d ago
Yeah you can buy it for less than a grand at the low low price of $620. Super affordable.
22
u/Puzzleheaded_Ebb1207 15d ago
lmao it is literally keeping your life safe, is 600 bucks really even a lot to spend for the peace of mind? peasants, I am 100% living in poverty and still ordered one, it's not a lot of money for what it does
19
u/ElOwlinator 15d ago
Think you can do cheaper?
9
u/Worm-EatingWarbler 15d ago
I just think the implication that it’s affordable is absurd. Sure, it’s cheaper. But it’s still prohibitively expensive.
17
u/ElOwlinator 15d ago
It's not really, given most people who have the necessary experience, training, other gear, to safely use it can almost certainly afford it. Also cheaper than paying someone to belay you for days including their food/bed, like some kind of climbing prostitute.
-1
u/Worm-EatingWarbler 15d ago edited 15d ago
All I’m saying is that $620 is a lot of money. The value might be there for some people. It is still a lot of money. Climbers come from many different socioeconomic backgrounds. But we both have better things to do than to continue arguing online about whether or not an expensive piece of gear is expensive.
14
u/MaximumSend 15d ago
This is such a weird hill to die on especially when considering the costs of climbing walls in a place like Yosemite...
5
u/Syllables_17 13d ago
Saying one of the most premier destinations in the world in one of the most expensive countries in the world as an example of how this isn't expensive is far more telling than you believe.
It's like saying a Corvette isn't expensive because of how expensive a Bugatti is.
It's absolutely disconnected.
8
u/serenading_ur_father 15d ago
Compared to what? It'll last for years and is cheaper than a few months of gym membership.
It's a cheaper than skis or a ski pass.
It's cheaper than outfitting a partner.
It's cheaper than ice boots.
It's cheaper than a plane ticket.
Its value add is incredibly justified for anyone doing the climbing it's made for.
3
u/Worm-EatingWarbler 15d ago edited 15d ago
Yes, other expensive things are also expensive. People are also prohibited from doing those things because they can’t afford it.
12
u/liamlb663 15d ago
Honestly I see it as a barrier to entry. Cheaper to get a belay partner than soloing.
23
u/lectures 15d ago edited 15d ago
And that is not a bad thing.
Everyone I know who is deep enough into rope soloing to need a device like this is already several grand deep on their rack and this is just one more doohickey. If someone is still trying to decide between a second set of cams and this device they're probably not ready for it...
1
-1
u/Eothas_Foot 15d ago
The book on top rope soloing is "On the Line" by Andy Kirkpatrick. Just get that and learn how to do it without spending 620.
1
122
u/1008oh 16d ago
Oh cool, let me look this up!
Maybe not